Labour Saving and General Guntering

Johnsey

Nice job pak! Just wondering what you need to do to allow the next batch of cattle past the bar. Would you not have been better leaving off the two pieces of flat at the top and allowing the bar to tilt back up and allow cattle past and then knock it down behind them again ? Or am I way off and missing something?

bob charles

Muckit wrote: »

Didn't know where to stick this pic so said I'd stick it in here
The tail lights on trailer weren't coming on so opened the plug. Now that's one tasty wiring job and testament to the quality of Aerlite trailers.

Eventually sussed it to be oxidation on the pins. A rub of sandpaper and a fiddle with the screwdriver all as good as new

those type of connectors on that 7 pin plug are notoriously unreliable IMO, much prefer the ordinary screw in connectors. the cherry on top of what you have done there is to fill where all the wires are connected with silicone, stops both the water and condensation rotting everything and gives the socket a 'back' so it always stays in position

martin46585

pakalasa wrote: »

Here's my Anti Backing Bar. I welded it up from scrap. It took a few hours mind you.
I used it today for the first time. These are a great job. It keeps them very tight in the crush. Ideal when you are injecting them.

A hell of a job, without the price tag normally associated with these items,
Ps love the readymade spouting

pakalasa

Johnsey wrote: »

Nice job pak! Just wondering what you need to do to allow the next batch of cattle past the bar. Would you not have been better leaving off the two pieces of flat at the top and allowing the bar to tilt back up and allow cattle past and then knock it down behind them again ? Or am I way off and missing something?

I know what you are saying, and I thought about it. In order to flip up fully vertical, the horizontal bar would have to be in under the hollow pipes of the crush. It would be too low then. I could also hinge it as it is. Either option, it would be in the way when big cows try to go by it. Also the short side would end up straight out from the crush. Cattle would get reefed on it here, if your holding yard is there. Which it is on my two crushes.
The other thing to be careful with it, is cattle jumping up on it from behind, when mounting others etc. So only keep it at the back of the cattle.

martin46585 wrote: »

A hell of a job, without the price tag normally associated with these items,
Ps love the readymade spouting

Basic ones like this are around the €100 mark, I think.

Similar ones, but more elaborate; all are €195
http://barrettengineering.ie/?wpsc-product=anti-backing-bar

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/beefcattle/2760216

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/beefcattle/2726714

Timmaay

pakalasa wrote: »

You would think it would slide back, but the cattle push it back off centre so it kind of levers back side ways and grips on the bar. The distance between the flat bars is about 2mm wider than the round bar of the crush. The top part just stops it falling in. It doesn't grip it really. All the gripping is done on the lower part.

Well done, that looks great. I'll definitely knock up one of theses, one quick question, Were you happy with the 2mm clearance, or would you go tighter or looser if you were making another?

pakalasa

I don't know. I know it was exactly 50mm because I had a metal spacer that was exactly 50 and I clamped onto that when welding. The pipes are a little over 48mm. Maybe an extra mm or two in the gap might grip it better.
I would extend the vertical part down an inch or two more on the bottom. That way it would be easier clip onto both pipes together. The bolt is 10mm and I just welded a M10 nut at the far side.

Muckit

Nice job with the backing bar Pak

Muckit

This is the finished secure box for my new solar fencer on outfarm. Is showed the frame for it a few posts back. The casing is an old filing box.
It is padlocked and has 10,000V running through it.



Key switch
The energiser can be turned off only with this key switch. Only then can the padlock be opened.




Earth
The galvanised pole it's mounted on is also the earth bar and is driven over 6' in the ground. You can also see I've mounted a cutoff switch under the box to cut power to the fenceline. Energiser and box still remain on and live though



ah crap it's not working



Go on try it if you don't believe me.....
Not bad for a solar fencer :rolleyes:

AntrimGlens

Hi All,
Been following this forum for a while so took the plunge and decided to post. Just finished modifying two lamb creep feeders tonight and put them out for lambs. Always found it so bothersome to move them with the tractor so can now just hitch them onto the quad and away i go. (With lamb prices i don't know if its a wise move)

leg wax

muckit by just looking at your photos if i really wanted your fencer i would have it gone in a few secs,i would just knock it down off the pole and stake use your insulated cable to make a handle thru the padlock and walk away .

bbam

Muckit wrote: »

This is the finished secure box for my new solar fencer on outfarm. Is showed the frame for it a few posts back. The casing is an old filing box.
It is padlocked and has 10,000V running through it.



Key switch
The energiser can be turned off only with this key switch. Only then can the padlock be opened.




Earth
The galvanised pole it's mounted on is also the earth bar and is driven over 6' in the ground. You can also see I've mounted a cutoff switch under the box to cut power to the fenceline. Energiser and box still remain on and live though



ah crap it's not working



Go on try it if you don't believe me.....
Not bad for a solar fencer :rolleyes:

Savage job.
Particularly like the idea that the box stays live.

Muckit

leg wax wrote: »

muckit by just looking at your photos if i really wanted your fencer i would have it gone in a few secs,i would just knock it down off the pole and stake use your insulated cable to make a handle thru the padlock and walk away .

You are right there, if a lad really wanted my fencer you know yourself Legs, there would be no stopping him. All I can do is not make it easy for him. But make no mistake a lad coming in with his hands in his pockets ain't taking this, and certainly not in a few seconds.

How do you knock it off the pole? The box is clamped tight to the pole. And I have an insulated bolt running through the pole and into the box (bringing in the earth to fencer) and stopping the box from being moved upwards.

• You could cut the earth pole with a cordless angle grinder. No earth, no shock, and throw the lot it the back of a jeep.
• You could tie the lot onto the back of a jeep and pull the f**k out of it.

It's better than leaving it on the ground, driving the 12' earth bar that came with it and hoping for the best.

All I've done is created a deterrent for an opportunist 'snatch and grab' thief. It's not bombproof. He doesn't know the box is live though. Let him get stuck to the padlock and it might be enough to convince him to f**k off...... or it could piss him off enough for him to keep at it...hopefully I never find out :rolleyes:

bogman_bass

how many lads would know that the box is electified at first. They would probably learn the hard way and just say "f%^& that for a game of soldiers" and leave it

pakalasa

Nice job there Muckit. Is there a battery in the box too?
You should consider going further with the idea. Don't you know someone else will and make a few bucks out of it. I know a lot of people that have had their fencer stolen. Myself included.

BeeDI

Jaz Muckit, you would be a right hand man to have around the place for a couple of weeks.
Would only be able to afford €7 an hour though:eek: :cool:

Muckit

pakalasa wrote: »

Nice job there Muckit. Is there a battery in the box too?
You should consider going further with the idea. Don't you know someone else will and make a few bucks out of it. I know a lot of people that have had their fencer stolen. Myself included.

Thanks Pak. Yes there is a small 12V deep cycle battery inside in the fencer unit casing. The solar panel faces south and trickle feeds the battery and keeps it topped up. According to the manufacturer I should get the season out of it without having to recharge it myself, but being the doubting Thomas that I am, I'I believe that come next October :rolleyes: Then just open the box, bring the whole lot home and charge the battery on the mains (if needs be).

My 9V battery fencer units are a joke compared to this yoke. They'I prob never be used again. I've got a few accidental wallops off the new fencer since I started using it and you'd swear it was hooked up to the mains. Even fixing the insulated cable under the box, the current arched from the box and nearly landed me into the middle of next week!!

As for going into production .... it's not a new concept...there's a few already for sale online. Big money. The ideal would be to have it galvanised, but I'm on a budget. It took me a few weeks to get this finished, God knows how long it'd take me to make 50!

Muckit

BeeDI wrote: »

Jaz Muckit, you would be a right hand man to have around the place for a couple of weeks.
Would only be able to afford €7 an hour though:eek: :cool:

I'd have that spent on teabags the amount of tea breaks I take!

Muckit

22mm hole cut with a holesaw bit. You have to keep the hole up a bit so that the ballcock arm can lower to allow the valve to open fully.


I got this rubber washer set in Aldi a while back. The ballcock that you use needs to have the brass nuts (not the white nylon ones)


I used tape on the thread along with a rubber washer, to be sure to be sure


Screw on the first nut and then another rubber washer to seal against the side of inside of the barrel.


I tried to just bend the rod, but it snapped (perhaps if I heated it:rolleyes:) Anyhow I drilled a 2mm hole in it and threaded string through. An 8mm (I think) bolt threaded into ballcock (although threads are a little different, but it works)


The ballcock is ~20mm dia so it fits through no probs


I put another rubber washer on outside, but this was more to keep brass nut away from side of barrel rather than for sealing. Water shouldn't come out this far is everything else done right. Put tape on thread...

....and screw on elbow



A bit of fiddling may be necessary to set the string to the right length

The finished article


I have a heap of half barrels so the whole thing probably cost me about a €5!

Muckit

AntrimGlens wrote: »

Just finished modifying two lamb creep feeders tonight and put them out for lambs.

That's some quality work there lad, it looks factory made. And you galvanised it and all, proper job

stanflt

i remember these all over our farm about 20years ago- were grand when we only had a few cows- as the numbers increased cows kept braking them- still use the same half barrels for carrying meal to the outfarm. barrels were originally for acid for silage

AntrimGlens

Muckit wrote: »

That's some quality work there lad, it looks factory made. And you galvanised it and all, proper job

Cheers Muckit - Thought twud be best galvanised as it would only end up rusting the feeder if i didn't do it. Made it so i can take the brackets off if i need to use the feeders in the house for creeping early lambs.

Muckit

stanflt wrote: »

i remember these all over our farm about 20years ago- were grand when we only had a few cows- as the numbers increased cows kept breaking them

Yes I could see how cows would play puck with them, especially milking cows. There wouldn't be the flow rate to keep them full enough.

Also I'd say any cattle using permanently would wreck them scratching. Sure they've only a light edge.

49801

Muckit wrote: »

Yes I could see how cows would play puck with them, especially milking cows. There wouldn't be the flow rate to keep them full enough.

Also I'd say any cattle using permanently would wreck them scratching. Sure they've only a light edge.

saw before some one put a ring of 3/4 inch water pipe around the top of the half cut barrell to give the edge a bit of strength. It was tied to the edge with cable ties. seemed a good idea to me. nice work btw:)

Muckit

49801 wrote: »

saw before some one put a ring of 3/4 inch water pipe around the top of the half cut barrell to give the edge a bit of strength. It was tied to the edge with cable ties. seemed a good idea to me. nice work btw:)

Not a bad idea

pakalasa

49801 wrote: »

saw before some one put a ring of 3/4 inch water pipe around the top of the half cut barrell to give the edge a bit of strength. It was tied to the edge with cable ties. seemed a good idea to me. nice work btw:)

Was there a slot cut in the 3/2" pipe to fit on over the edge of the barrell?

49801

pakalasa wrote: »

49801 wrote: »

saw before some one put a ring of 3/4 inch water pipe around the top of the half cut barrell to give the edge a bit of strength. It was tied to the edge with cable ties. seemed a good idea to me. nice work btw:)

Was there a slot cut in the 3/2" pipe to fit on over the edge of the barrell?[/Quote

No just a ring of pipe inside the lip of the barrel

Muckit

49801 wrote: »

pakalasa wrote: »

Was there a slot cut in the 3/4" pipe to fit on over the edge of the barrell?

No just a ring of pipe inside the lip of the barrel

That's gas. I assumed too that the pipe was slit and slipped over

Would they not snap the cable ties if that's all that was holding the pipe in place?

blue5000

Hey muckit I want commission! Did you get away without the silicone around the ballcock where it goes through the barrel?

Muckit

blue5000 wrote: »

Hey muckit I want commission! Did you get away without the silicone around the ballcock where it goes through the barrel?

Ha ha!!! I know! that's the second good idea you gave me blue;) I just improved on it No need for messy silicone, use a bit and then no matter how you try seal the tip, the rest of the tube always ends up wasted:rolleyes: ...and you have to wiat for it to dry...

^^[EMAIL="^^L@@K"]L@@K[/EMAIL]^^ at my post above....

2 rubber water seals either side of the inner nut and bob's your uncle;)

49801

Muckit wrote: »

49801 wrote: »

That's gas. I assumed too that the pipe was slit and slipped over

Would they not snap the cable ties if that's all that was holding the pipe in place?

if you really feel the need you could use a few gutter bolts to bolt the ring of water pipe to the edge instead.