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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,298 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Cut it as tight as possible with a 9 inch grinder, probably at a 45 degree angle (vertically).
    Then youll have to cut away at the remaining stumps with a 4 inch grinder till there's nothing left.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 495 ✭✭Attie


    RobinBanks wrote: »
    I need to remove this feeding barrier. As you can see it's recessed into the wall and welded onto the girder. Ideally I would cut it off flush with girder. Any ideas how I would go about it?


    Just cut off what you can, than griend the rest of.
    Take a bit of time though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭renandstimpy


    You could use a welder turned up to the last and burn through as appossed to welding .

    And finish with mop disc on 4 inch grinder


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    Would you get a 4 1/2 inch grinder in there? A recip saw would cut it flush, arc welder turned up to the balls, plasma cutter, oxy-acet set, depends what you have to hand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭renandstimpy


    Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes.. would ye recommend getting it galvanised or would I just stick with paint as it comes?
    Would I be just putting extra expense on myself for nothing ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 613 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    Ours is painted. I’ve never even seen a galvanized one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭renandstimpy


    Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,531 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes..

    What make are you buying ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,320 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .

    Buy a Quicke one. (With small rollers).

    The paint question. 15 years.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .

    Once they get enough grease during and after use, they'll nearly last forever.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭renandstimpy


    The paint question. 15 years.


    Paint it will be then .. that's good enough for me .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 439 ✭✭renandstimpy


    Sami23 wrote:
    What make are you buying ?


    A paddy coen one.. very well made and open wider 4 inches wider than McHale one .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,994 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes.. would ye recommend getting it galvanised or would I just stick with paint as it comes?
    Would I be just putting extra expense on myself for nothing ?

    Galvanised only works until the zinc is scratched/worn off. I wouldn't bother for a bale handler.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,162 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    A paddy coen one.. very well made and open wider 4 inches wider than McHale one .

    Have a Coen handler here approx 9 years.Well made. Practically as good today as the day we got it. 95% of paint intact. Just keep greased and tines tight and there's no bother. Can recommend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭ruwithme


    Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,564 ✭✭✭MfMan


    ruwithme wrote: »
    Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.

    pallets, tyres?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,383 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    ruwithme wrote: »
    Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.

    If you can get your hands on the very strong type of plastic pallet, they are a great job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,383 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
    What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

    Also are those solid wheels the job? :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,469 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
    What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

    Also are those solid wheels the job? :D

    How about some oko. Should keep the air in it.


    http://www.oko.com


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,320 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
    What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

    Also are those solid wheels the job? :D
    Are you sure it wasn't leaking from the valve the first time?

    And yep those solid wheels are the job.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,225 ✭✭✭charolais0153


    Are you sure it wasn't leaking from the valve the first time?

    And yep those solid wheels are the job.

    Solid wheels are great on just concrete. Can stop at a stone or just a lip of concrete.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,383 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Thanks guys. Youd be lost without a wheelbarrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    Thanks guys. Youd be lost without a wheelbarrow.

    Splashed out on two new wheels here!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    As already said could be leaking from the valve, never tried the solid wheels, i'd imagine you need plenty of concrete underneath them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,320 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Solid wheels are great on just concrete. Can stop at a stone or just a lip of concrete.

    I've got one on the barrow from Lidl/Aldi.
    But then it's just a small plastic body barrow. It made it extremely easy to push but then the loads would be small and on concrete.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Know a guy who got sick of fixing punctures on wheelbarrows on building sites he used to put hay Bob tyres on them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 613 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    Solid plastic wheels are grand but the real job are the launching trolley wheels for small dingys. They’re the very same as a wheelbarrow wheel only they’re solid rubber, they have a bit of give in them for bad ground


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,268 ✭✭✭enricoh


    Get 6 ply tyres instead of the usual 2 ply, probably cost a fiver more and yer not tormented with puncures all the time.
    Theres a crowd called parnells in tallaght i do get them off, do all quad tyres, balloon tyres, wheels, bearings etc
    Credit card and a fiver for postage and away u go


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,597 ✭✭✭gctest50


    Front wheel off a scooter and gunther it on, tubeless n all


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,120 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    I’ll be damned if I was going to fork out €400 to get a screen repaired.

    €80 for the screen and €8 for a size 0 philips


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