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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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renandstimpy

You could use a welder turned up to the last and burn through as appossed to welding .

And finish with mop disc on 4 inch grinder

SuperTortoise

Would you get a 4 1/2 inch grinder in there? A recip saw would cut it flush, arc welder turned up to the balls, plasma cutter, oxy-acet set, depends what you have to hand.

renandstimpy

Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes.. would ye recommend getting it galvanised or would I just stick with paint as it comes?
Would I be just putting extra expense on myself for nothing ?

TheFarrier

Ours is painted. I’ve never even seen a galvanized one

renandstimpy

Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .

Sami23

renandstimpy wrote: »

Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes..

What make are you buying ?

Say my name

renandstimpy wrote: »

Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .

Buy a Quicke one. (With small rollers).

The paint question. 15 years.

Buford T. Justice XIX

renandstimpy wrote: »

Neither have I just wondering how long before it would need painting if stored in shed when not in use .

Once they get enough grease during and after use, they'll nearly last forever.

renandstimpy

Say my name wrote:

The paint question. 15 years.

Paint it will be then .. that's good enough for me .

renandstimpy

Sami23 wrote:

What make are you buying ?

A paddy coen one.. very well made and open wider 4 inches wider than McHale one .

Odelay

renandstimpy wrote: »

Kind of a labour saving question ... im buying a bale handler for front loader .. the one with the spikes covered by pipes.. would ye recommend getting it galvanised or would I just stick with paint as it comes?
Would I be just putting extra expense on myself for nothing ?

Galvanised only works until the zinc is scratched/worn off. I wouldn't bother for a bale handler.

jimmy G M

renandstimpy wrote: »

A paddy coen one.. very well made and open wider 4 inches wider than McHale one .

Have a Coen handler here approx 9 years.Well made. Practically as good today as the day we got it. 95% of paint intact. Just keep greased and tines tight and there's no bother. Can recommend.

ruwithme

Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.

MfMan

ruwithme wrote: »

Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.

pallets, tyres?

patsy_mccabe

ruwithme wrote: »

Does anyone have a idea or use anything for narrowing a cattle chute when working with weanlings/younger stock to avoid them turning so much.

If you can get your hands on the very strong type of plastic pallet, they are a great job.

patsy_mccabe

Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

Also are those solid wheels the job?

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

Also are those solid wheels the job?

How about some oko. Should keep the air in it.

http://www.oko.com

Say my name

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Don't laugh but my wheelbarrow has a puncture. Bought a new tube but must have pinched it putting it on. Tube leaking so took tube off again. Checked it there and no sign of a leak. Completely submerged it in water. :rolleyes:
What am I doing wrong? Put plenty of air in it.

Also are those solid wheels the job?

Are you sure it wasn't leaking from the valve the first time?

And yep those solid wheels are the job.

charolais0153

Say my name wrote: »

Are you sure it wasn't leaking from the valve the first time?

And yep those solid wheels are the job.

Solid wheels are great on just concrete. Can stop at a stone or just a lip of concrete.

patsy_mccabe

Thanks guys. Youd be lost without a wheelbarrow.

MickeyShtyles

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Thanks guys. Youd be lost without a wheelbarrow.

Splashed out on two new wheels here!

SuperTortoise

As already said could be leaking from the valve, never tried the solid wheels, i'd imagine you need plenty of concrete underneath them.

Say my name

charolais0153 wrote: »

Solid wheels are great on just concrete. Can stop at a stone or just a lip of concrete.

I've got one on the barrow from Lidl/Aldi.
But then it's just a small plastic body barrow. It made it extremely easy to push but then the loads would be small and on concrete.

Thepillowman

Know a guy who got sick of fixing punctures on wheelbarrows on building sites he used to put hay Bob tyres on them.

TheFarrier

Solid plastic wheels are grand but the real job are the launching trolley wheels for small dingys. They’re the very same as a wheelbarrow wheel only they’re solid rubber, they have a bit of give in them for bad ground

enricoh

Get 6 ply tyres instead of the usual 2 ply, probably cost a fiver more and yer not tormented with puncures all the time.
Theres a crowd called parnells in tallaght i do get them off, do all quad tyres, balloon tyres, wheels, bearings etc
Credit card and a fiver for postage and away u go

gctest50

Front wheel off a scooter and gunther it on, tubeless n all

bogman_bass

I’ll be damned if I was going to fork out €400 to get a screen repaired.

€80 for the screen and €8 for a size 0 philips

Donald Trump

renandstimpy wrote: »

You could use a welder turned up to the last and burn through as appossed to welding .

And finish with mop disc on 4 inch grinder

I wouldn't be too quick to go at it with that.

You won't see the difference, but the heat could damage or weaken the girder. I know it was already welded once, but stilll, no point adding to it by going at it yourself

I'd just cut the supports and give it a belt of a sledge or lump hammer. Or even just use the length of it as a lever to snap it off. Depending on how well it was welded in the first place it would probably separate fairly lively.

A few bangs of a coal chisel then if you were worried about any residual weld but I wouldn't be worried about that meself.

I'm actually surprised, looking it it, that it wasn't already lifted off by the cattle eating through it. Doesn't seem to be that strong.....maybe the bottom part it buried in the concrete?

patsy_mccabe

Maybe useful information for someone. I bought lengths of 3.5" galvanised pipe as gate closing posts. I wanted to put caps on them to stop them splitting in frost. Got the caps seperate from local hardware store. Now, the ideal way to put them on, is before you concrete in the post. Just turn the post upside down and tap down on the caps.
Must have spent 15 mins yesterday trying to tap one on a fixed post with a pastic mallet. You can see the damage I did.

It just would not go in.