Wind Engine

danois

I recently bought a boat and I got a wind engine with it its a russian made outboard engine but that is all i can find out about it i cant even find any one to service it for me does any one have any info on them for me it would be greatly appreciated


thanks

Hifive

danois wrote: »

I recently bought a boat and I got a wind engine with it its a russian made outboard engine but that is all i can find out about it i cant even find any one to service it for me does any one have any info on them for me it would be greatly appreciated
thanks

I have one of these motors on my tender.


I bought it new from a guy who operated out of a container down opposite the sewage works in east wall in Dublin (seriously!) for €350.00 The cheapest 8 hp I could get elsewhere was a Tohatsu for €1800.00.

However it was cheap for a reason.
The seller had bought 150 of the things from someone in Russia and as it turns out they are surplus Russian army. When I got mine two years ago, he said he had sold about seventy of them and only heard of one failure. They are very basic two stroke units with absolutely no frills, but having said that they are quite robust, presumably built to last for use out in Siberia where they are probably a bit short on repair shops! The running joke concerned it's lack of a reverse gear. The Russian army never retreat!!
They were actually put in storage in 1993, covered in grease and put into crates with a full spares kit including a spare, finer pitch prop and all sorts of other bits and bobs. Mine required a fair bit of recommissioning as the grease had gone hard and gummed everything up and the rubber fuel line had perished with age.
I have a complete repair and service manual, in English, for it somewhere.
Regards,
Mark.

Lauder

bought one of these for my tender about 4 years ago, again it was another that had been in storage for many years, only cost me €250 tho. It ran great for one season and then started overheating on a regular basis, it would sometimes go grand for a while, then id shut it off and it wouldnt start again for love nor money.

Rebuilt the whole thing, new gaskets, new hoses and got her up an running again but still overheats. Now replaced by a Yam 4hp, 4 stroke i got in Lidl for 900quid bargain.

Hifive

Lauder wrote: »

bought one of these for my tender about 4 years ago, again it was another that had been in storage for many years, only cost me €250 tho. It ran great for one season and then started overheating on a regular basis, it would sometimes go grand for a while, then id shut it off and it wouldnt start again for love nor money.

Rebuilt the whole thing, new gaskets, new hoses and got her up an running again but still overheats. Now replaced by a Yam 4hp, 4 stroke i got in Lidl for 900quid bargain.

€250:( He must have seen me coming:)

In fairness it was still fairly cheap and my one has never overheated although when I first started it there was no tell tail water stream to indicate it it was circulating cooling water and on further investigation I found the intake tube was stuffed with hardened grease.
It can however be a bitch to restart if it's just been turned off, oh and it sounds like a demented sowing machine:D

danois

Thanks for getting back to me. Can I ask where you got the copy of the manual in english hifive that would be very handy?? Thanks again

Hifive

danois wrote: »

Thanks for getting back to me. Can I ask where you got the copy of the manual in english hifive that would be very handy?? Thanks again

I bought the engine new, so it came with it.
However I had a good look for it (the manual) today and so far its evading capture. If I can find it and you need something specific from it I could scan a section for you.
Are you having problems with your motor?

danois

Can i ask you a quick question the wind engine i have still has the original russian spark plugs and no one seems to know any conversions have you bought plugs for yours if so what ones??

thanks a million

Hifive

danois wrote: »

Can i ask you a quick question the wind engine i have still has the original russian spark plugs and no one seems to know any conversions have you bought plugs for yours if so what ones??

thanks a million

Hi danois,
I've scanned and emailed a copy of the manual for you, Sorry about the delay, it took ages!
I'm not sure if it will be any use to you as the translation is poor and it doesn't give much info about the spark plugs, just a ref code on the top of page six.
Ref. Spark plug....A11 GOST 2043-74

The manual might be useful for a mechanic though, as it's very comprehensive from a mechanical point of view and would presumably be invaluable if you were a Russian squaddie and had to strip down and rebuild the thing in the freezing cold while taking fire from some angry Chechen's

Удачи товарищ

Mark.

McSemtex

Hifive wrote: »

Hi danois,
I've scanned and emailed a copy of the manual for you, Sorry about the delay, it took ages!
I'm not sure if it will be any use to you as the translation is poor and it doesn't give much info about the spark plugs, just a ref code on the top of page six.
Ref. Spark plug....A11 GOST 2043-74

The manual might be useful for a mechanic though, as it's very comprehensive from a mechanical point of view and would presumably be invaluable if you were a Russian squaddie and had to strip down and rebuild the thing in the freezing cold while taking fire from some angry Chechen's

Удачи товарищ

Mark.

Hi Hifive, I know it's a while but if you still have a file of manual I'd appreciate a copy too, cheers, Ger.

fergal.b

The wind outboards are built in Russia by "volzhskie motory" if you don't hear back from Hifive send him a pm or you could try and call the company on 7 8422 358527 or email exportvm@mv.ru and they might be able to send on a manual.
Best of luck, there's not a lot of info out there in english but if you find someone that speaks russian they might have better luck.

McSemtex

Cheers Fergal.

tin79

My Father used to have one. Bought new as the cheap option. All i remember of it is having a sore arm trying to start it and from rowing when it failed, smoke and lots of cursing.

I remember telling him it must have been named "wind" as thats what you were relying on to get you home when it craps out.

It didnt last long

Hifive

Hi, just seeing this now as I was away for a couple of weeks.

I still have that outboard and it's still going strong. Started on the 3rd pull after the winter and it's running sweetly!

As regards the manual I cant find the original scans (new laptop) and I am not going to scan the whole thing again as it took forever the last time and all for no thanks:mad:

However if McSemtex, or anyone else wants a scan of a specific section that would not be a problem.

McSemtex

Cheers HiFive, I sent you a PM, I figured out the prob and she's running sweet, I'll take her out tmrw and fingers crossed she'll keep going.

Talent

Just to let you know I also have a Wind 8 HP. Ran it in two years ago in a barrell as the manual advocated and used a 25:1 petreol/oil mix for the run in. Normal mix is 50:1. Stored rather haphazardly in a dusty place and now won't start. Checked the ignition and getting a spark on both plugs. Took the carb off and I'm cleaning the jets and needles as I speak Will let you know how I get on.

Also bought from the man down the docks and it came with a manual and fairly conprehensive set of spares, including gaskets, piston rings and a spare propellor.

Talent

Discovered why it would not start. A piece of what looked like a shellac or a varnish flake was blocking the nipple where the petrol hose is attached to the top of the carb bowl. Cleaned it out and the engine started first pull.

However, I had earlier dismanted the carb to clean it out (dirt in the bowl and the jetways and needles were cleaned with compressed canned air) and the fast and slow running jets needed adjustment. HOwever couldn't get it right on the slow running one (hadn't even tried the fast one) because the engine kept surging and wouldn't settle down so I could get a comfortable idle.

Thinking that perhaps there was water in the petrol (due to condensation over the winter) poured about a litre of the petrol from the tank (after giving it a gentle shake) into a clear plastic jug. Water should immediately settle like a clear layer or a bubble on the bottom. NO water appeared, but lots of flakes of paint and dirt were present. Repeated the excercise for the other 3 or 4 litres and still no water but more paint, and dirt. In all removed about a teaspoonful of debris from the tank. I recalled the man on the docks advising me to flush the tank when my son and I bought the engine a few years ago and, given that there was now signs of rust, decided to dump the tank. Got a new plastic one from Marine Parts Direct for €30 and the engine runs smoothly now. Uneven running was obviously caused by the jets or the emulsion tube being temporarily blocked by debris which, when they cleared themselves, caused the surge.

Have yet to adjust the jets and I'll report back when I do.

Meantime, I have to say I'm impressed with the layout of the engine. It was obviously designed for dog-rough repairs on the banks of rivers in the tundra. I can replace the starter rope without removing the recoil mechanism like in other engines. The carb bowl can be drained without removing it or the carb. Getting at the jets and emulsion tube was easy too. Even removing the carb was simplicity itself. Electronics, fuel pump are accessible once the hood is off. It looks like I could work on the head even, without stripping the engine down too much. MIght not be quiet or pretty but it serves a purpose. What was that lovely story about NASA inventing the ball-point to use in space? The Russians used a pencil.

fergal.b

At the end of each year I add a engine fuel treatment called "star tron" http://www.chmarine.com/acatalog/Startron_Enzyme_Fuel_Treatments.html it stops the build up of varnish in the fuel tank and engine while the engine is laying up, just add it to the fuel and run it into the engine.
Works great

Talent

In an ideal world I suppose one would drain it completely before layup but, as we know, it's not an ideal world.

Also recall getting little crystals after the winter in my son's 4hp Evinrude. I imagine your treatment would solve that too?

Talent

Also, would it dissolve post-layup residue, or just prevent it forming in the first place?

fergal.b

It's more to prevent, you can get carb cleaner "seafoam" that you put into the tank it's better than the stuff you spray into the carb, it can be a bit smokey so it better to do it when your going out for a spin.
Some engines don't like been drained as it causes the seals to dry up and crack.

Talent

Never thought of the seals ...

breghall

fergal.b wrote: »

It's more to prevent, you can get carb cleaner "seafoam" that you put into the tank it's better than the stuff you spray into the carb, it can be a bit smokey so it better to do it when your going out for a spin.
Some engines don't like been drained as it causes the seals to dry up and crack.

Fergal, anyone over here suppyling seafoam? I can't seem to find any ...

fergal.b

breghall wrote: »

Fergal, anyone over here suppyling seafoam? I can't seem to find any ...

I got it on ebay a few years ago, Redex also do one and you can get it in any motor factors it's made up of more or less the same stuff.

breghall

I've ran the Redex before, was only wanting to try the seafoam to see if it's as good as it's meant to be. I'll keep an eye on ebay for it. thanks.

Talent

Finally went afloat today with the Wind engine strapped to the back of my sailing dinghy (took the sails along - just in case!).

Was very sluggish heading out and couldn't seem to get decents revs on the engine with the prop engaged. Went back in, got a screwdriver and did the fast jet tuneup under way. The manual had said to back it off about 3 turns before trying it in and out but this was very frustrating so I screwed it fully in then backed it off about a half turn and the engine is now absolutely flying. Probably a bit too powerful to run it at high revs - it was digging the stern down until I altered the trim. I suppose the ideal will be to run it at about half max revs. Plan to use it someday for a sailing/camping trip on the Grand Canal where max speed is 4 mph anyhow.

McSemtex

Thanks for the update Talent, I had the same problem with sluggish revs when in gear and I backed it off 2 turns, seems ok. One warning though, I would bring some spare shearing pins when going out as I'm losing one every trip at the moment and it's no fun changing them when out at sea!:(

Talent

Are your shear pins breaking under normal use, or just when you hit something?

McSemtex

It's under normal use but, in fairness, at least one of those times the engine was struggling at sea so I prob had the revs too high going into gear. But the lad I got it from said it had happened to him as well. I wouldn't go out now without at least 2 spares.

Talent

I think I have a few spares - must practice in the driveway. It's years since I changed pins. When you run out of spares are those pins generally available? Or do you have to write to Moscow?

Actually the last time I changed a pin was in the old Royal Canal near Croke PArk years ago during the INland WAterways Association Dinghy challenge (using rubber boats - had to take them out the water at locks and run across the road and re-launch). Embedded the prop in a sofa.

Talent

Did a dry run changing the shear pin at lunchtime. Straightforward enough but was surpised to find the existing pint bent slightly. Found a few small nicks on the prop - could have hit something - it was getting on towards low tide when I came back to the harbour on Monday. Will pack spares in future.

BTW can you say what the purpose is of the second, larger prop in the spares kit? The manual describes it as a "cargo" prop - what I wonder is that?

Hifive

[QUOTE BTW can you say what the purpose is of the second, larger prop in the spares kit? The manual describes it as a "cargo" prop - what I wonder is that?[/QUOTE]

The red prop is a finer pitch than the blue one, so less top speed but better ability to shift heavier loads.
If you were to use it as an auxiliary engine on a cruiser, or as main power for a small sailing cruiser, it would be the prop to use,

My little 8 foot tender rib does 16 knots flat out with the coarser pitch blue prop when lightly loaded, but only about 8 and won't plane with the finer one fitted.