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How to service your car

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Comments

  • #2


    First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.


  • #2


    tacklemore wrote: »
    First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.

    Woosh........


  • #2


    It's a pity that the opening post has lost all its images


  • #2


    Hi all, just wondered if anyone has used a leak finding additive ( one that shows up under ultra violet light ) and did it do the job? In principle, I am not really in favour of putting anything into the coolant that is not expressly designed for it ( Anti-Freeze / Rust Inhibitor etc ) But if some one has used this leak finder, how did it work for you?
    Thanks.


  • #2


    Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.


  • #2


    Hal1 wrote: »
    Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.
    Hi Hal,
    I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
    If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
    If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
    It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
    So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.


  • #2


    Brake Fluid Change on Toyota/Lexus Hybrid

    just sharing my experience with RX400h...

    I had a look at some YouTube videos and I deduced that the Techstream software wasn't doing any more than giving step-by-step instructions. Logically, if you open the nipples the fluid has to come through - right?

    As per instructions I removed ABS relays and bled the front brakes (having emptied and refilled the HUGE reservoir). Absolutely bog standard bleeding process.

    Then refitted the relays and proceeded to rear. Ignition on. Helper pressed pedal and I opened nipple. Got two drips and everything shuts down. VSC fault on dash.

    Got Techstream connected, checked faults. HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FAILURE. It appears that the rear system is designed to shut down so that it doesn't pump out all of the fluid if there is a leak.

    In the process of doing the job I was having some communication drop-outs. It turned out my 12V battery was shot (replacement on order from Mick). I'm hoping that will also solve some intermittent problems with my HIDs.

    Eventually got them bled - system pumps them through while someone just holds the pedal down. Very straightforward as long as you have the Techstream software (PS it doesn't appear to work with a 64-bit computer).

    So my word of warning is, don't tackle bleeding the rear brakes unless you have access to Techstream software or equivalent.


  • #2


    What should it cost to do water pump on VW Transporter T5 2.5 tdi , and service it, new oil and filters, and fix a intercooler pipe, he fixed it by drilling two holes in it, and placing two tek screws in it .

    Also took him 5 weeks.


  • #2


    I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

    Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.


  • #2


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

    Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.




    Ah but the water pump is totally independent on this engine. It's behind a plate on side of engine, 3 bolts, and then pulls out. Literally takes minutes to swap out, with the puller tool to extract the old one.
    No timing belts involved.





    I think this is real time exchange of one




  • #2


    But yes, basically asked for 500 plus vat.
    I just don't see it, change oil, fit water pump, and two tek screws.

    Any good mechanic should do it all in under 90 mins


  • #2


    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine


  • #2


    fryup wrote: »
    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine

    Hows the refrigant level if it's low or empty that would disable pulling the clutch pulling in I imagine


  • #2


    fryup wrote: »
    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine


    Have you been able to swap the relay with another that's the same? Also check gas level as it won't engage if not correct level.


  • #2


    jmreire wrote: »
    Hi Hal,
    I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
    If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
    If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
    It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
    So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.

    Update on the leak: It turned out to be the fuel filter housing. They are linked to the cooling system to warm the fuel, and are prone to leaking, especially the older ones, that had only two retaining bolts holding the filter body in place. Newer ones have 3 bolts, and tend not to give the same leaking problem.


  • #2


    Have you been able to swap the relay with another that's the same?

    yes, but no joy
    Also check gas level as it won't engage if not correct level.

    really never knew that


  • #2


    Well Chaps,

    Picked up a towbar for an Avensis T27 from a Breakers yard some time back. Just managing to get time to put it on...well work in progress. The bolts for one side of the base plate went in fine on the passenger side and that base plate is secure. However, the bolts just don't seem to want to go in on the drivers side not helped by the exhaust hampering my access somewhat.

    Bolts are going in and don't appear to be cross threading but I get to a certain point and they don't want to go anymore. Presumably there is dirt and grit from 10 years on the road lodged up there causing me a problem. Any ideas on how I might ease them up there?



  • #2


    What does anyone reckon to using the oil pump do hickey for oil changes? I had a very difficult to undo sump plug and have been using the oil pump I got from micksgarage for the last few oil changes. Sure makes things a lot easier to get at...



  • #2


    Why you made it so complicated? Your car can have what ever fancy ABS brakes but there is old brake system too, what takes over if there is ABS fault. So, do not turn ignition on and bleed as any regular old car. Only it does not bleed the ABS pressure reservoir. To make 100% correct bleeding you need proper diagnostic tool.



  • #2


    Oil pump is very good for DIY if oil filer is too acessable from the top. Only remember to heat the oil before pumping action.



  • #2


    Just to follow up on the above quote lads - I made a cut of about 10-15mm straight down through the centre of one bolt. Drove it into all holes and it went in very easily. The good bolts then went in no problem after I removed that bolt out.


    I'm doing this job slowly (very slowly) in what spare time I have. The tail lamps are now wired up neatly to the canbus box. Bit of an issue is running the live wire back through the firewall. Anyone ever do it and how did they approach? Below are two images - first on the engine side showing the wiring loom going in through firewall - access is pretty limited. The second snap is a behind the glovebox view of the same wiring coming into interior of car - again access is pretty limited. I can probably improvise and find a way of pushing the wire through despite the access but any hints appreciated. I'm more conscious of damaging of the existing wiring when making the hole (don't want to go there). Anyone ever done something like this and how did they get on?

    Once I get the wire into the car routing it back to the rear of the car should be child's play to me.





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