tacklemore wrote: »
First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.
Hal1 wrote: »
Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.
colm_mcm wrote: »
I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150
Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.
fryup wrote: »
if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?
*i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine
jmreire wrote: »
I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.
Atlantic Dawn wrote: »
Have you been able to swap the relay with another that's the same?
Atlantic Dawn wrote: »
Also check gas level as it won't engage if not correct level.
Picked up a towbar for an Avensis T27 from a Breakers yard some time back. Just managing to get time to put it on...well work in progress. The bolts for one side of the base plate went in fine on the passenger side and that base plate is secure. However, the bolts just don't seem to want to go in on the drivers side not helped by the exhaust hampering my access somewhat.
Bolts are going in and don't appear to be cross threading but I get to a certain point and they don't want to go anymore. Presumably there is dirt and grit from 10 years on the road lodged up there causing me a problem. Any ideas on how I might ease them up there?
What does anyone reckon to using the oil pump do hickey for oil changes? I had a very difficult to undo sump plug and have been using the oil pump I got from micksgarage for the last few oil changes. Sure makes things a lot easier to get at...
Why you made it so complicated? Your car can have what ever fancy ABS brakes but there is old brake system too, what takes over if there is ABS fault. So, do not turn ignition on and bleed as any regular old car. Only it does not bleed the ABS pressure reservoir. To make 100% correct bleeding you need proper diagnostic tool.
Oil pump is very good for DIY if oil filer is too acessable from the top. Only remember to heat the oil before pumping action.
Just to follow up on the above quote lads - I made a cut of about 10-15mm straight down through the centre of one bolt. Drove it into all holes and it went in very easily. The good bolts then went in no problem after I removed that bolt out.
I'm doing this job slowly (very slowly) in what spare time I have. The tail lamps are now wired up neatly to the canbus box. Bit of an issue is running the live wire back through the firewall. Anyone ever do it and how did they approach? Below are two images - first on the engine side showing the wiring loom going in through firewall - access is pretty limited. The second snap is a behind the glovebox view of the same wiring coming into interior of car - again access is pretty limited. I can probably improvise and find a way of pushing the wire through despite the access but any hints appreciated. I'm more conscious of damaging of the existing wiring when making the hole (don't want to go there). Anyone ever done something like this and how did they get on?
Once I get the wire into the car routing it back to the rear of the car should be child's play to me.