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How to install a HKC window slimline sensor

  • 12-04-2007 7:49pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3


    Hi,

    I have an HKC Safeguard alarm but I have problems with one of my sensors.
    It's a slimlime sensor and it doesn't notice anymore if the window is open or not.

    So I opened the cover to see whats wrong, all cables are connected properly. Inside there is a cylindrical sensor with a little arrow at it, so I was turn the sensor a little but until the arrow showed in the direction of the window and then the control panel saids 'window open'. But it doesn't recognise if the window is closed.

    So, which direction should the arrow point at?

    Before it point to the ceiling.....

    Thanks for any help!


«13456789

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,071 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    You need to put the sensor back to the way it was as the arrow needs to be pointing up. I take it you have a shock sensor with a built in magnetic contact, is there a little magnet on the window opening. If there is then you need to replace it, the sensor, contact and tamper conections are all marked on the base of the sensor.
    Then again you might just have a shock sensor,which will only work if the window is forced


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    if the panel says "window open" it's most likely the magnetic contact in a combi sensor that is causing the problem, a shock sensor should not recognise an open, or closed window , it will only notice a hard bang or contineous small bangs on the widows,
    So as Jnealon says maybe you need to replace the magnet that it on the window that when the window is closed is more or less beside the sensor.

    To check you could also remove this magnet and tape it to the sensor and see it the panel will recognise the window as closed, if it does the magnetic needs to me moved nearer to the sensor (sometimes you can place a second magnet on the first one to increase the strenght of the magnetic field)

    However it could also be a cable fault


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Silly question but are you sure the HKC sensor has a magnetic reed fitted? The inertia ones and the ones with both inertia and magnetic detectors look identical.
    As I remember the dual sensor has a red mark underneath it. That's the only way you know


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    I know where you are coming from Reyman, but in my experience (alot less then others here wrt alarms) an inertia sensor does not prevent an alarm from setting or give a window open option on the panel:confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    OP - Maybe you can be a little clearer with your post:

    Are you saying that the alarm will not sound when the window is opened? I.E. It does not detect an open window when already programmed to alarm?

    A simple test is - if you can set your alarm while the window is already open then either there is no magnetic reed fitted or else wired up in the detector.

    Incidentally wiring up those dual HKC detectors is tricky so don't assume it is wired correctly (they don't give you a wiring diagram with the detector)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 alextx


    Thanks for your answers so far.

    There is no magnet at the window, and I was also wondering how a sensor can realise if the window is open or not without a magnet. Fact is, when I moved into the appartment, I couldn't set the alarm when the window was opend and the display said "window open".

    Reyman I will check if there is a red mark underneth it but first I have to screw it off to check that - will do that tomorrow.

    Jnealon you said the arrow should pointing up. The sensor is fixed at the top of the window frame, so that would mean the arrow should show in the direction of the ceiling - right?

    Thanks again for your help!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,071 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    The arrow should point to the ceiling. Sounds like you just have a shocksensor, this will not detect an open window as you need a contact for that.
    If you remove the two wires for the sensor, note that the connections are marked on the sensor base and connect them together this will tell you if the sensor is faulty or not. If the alarm is not showing an open zone after this then you have a faulty sensor


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    You sure there's no concealed sensor in the window frame?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 alextx


    The sensor says:
    Sensor G2 CII
    HKC LTD Type A

    There are 4 lines connected, 2 at the sensor clamp and 2 at the tamper clamp. The two called Reed/Spare are empty.

    So is it a only a shock sensor?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Well it's wired as a shock sensor but that doesn't mean it's shock sensor only. It could also be the reed type but with not wired for the other two terminals.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,071 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    If you have a multimeter measure the resistance just to be sure or remove the two wires from the sensor terminals and twist them together
    Then just replace the sensor


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 platium


    Reyman wrote: »
    Silly question but are you sure the HKC sensor has a magnetic reed fitted? The inertia ones and the ones with both inertia and magnetic detectors look identical.
    As I remember the dual sensor has a red mark underneath it. That's the only way you know

    Hi there , i have the hkc senors they have 6 connections on them, 2 senor
    2 tamper and 2 reed/spare could you please tell how to wire them because i am trying to fit the alarm myself. Thank you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    platium wrote: »
    Hi there , i have the hkc senors they have 6 connections on them, 2 senor
    2 tamper and 2 reed/spare could you please tell how to wire them because i am trying to fit the alarm myself. Thank you

    1) contact
    2) shock
    3) tamper
    4) tamper
    5) shock
    6) contact

    Hi platium,
    If you are fitting the sensor with a reed switch you need to loop out 1 + 2 with a small piece of cable. then use 3 + 4 for tamper and 5 + 6 for alarm.
    If you are not using the reed then 1 + 6 become spare terminals...
    Hope this helps, any problems let me know...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 platium


    Hi there,
    Thanks for your help its beginning to work now i am getting continuity on the cable at the panel yepie.
    Cheers platium.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    platium wrote: »
    Hi there,
    Thanks for your help its beginning to work now i am getting continuity on the cable at the panel yepie.
    Cheers platium.

    Your welcome, always here to help..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 platium


    platium wrote: »
    Hi there,
    Thanks for your help its beginning to work now i am getting continuity on the cable at the panel yepie.
    Cheers platium.

    Hi there im looking for help again its with my parents house alarm the cs350 it is going off by itself when it is set every so often which is causing them a bit of stress any ideas how to fix it please thanks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    First step is to identify what zone is activating the alarm.
    This should display after the system is disarmed.
    If there is a number of devices on this zone the DIY way is to remove one device at a time (ensure you close off single cables or join through looped cables) & see if your problem goes away.
    There is a quicker way if you have access to a multimeter
    Disconnect the zone from the control panel & remove any EOL resisitors .Again ensure cables are terminated in the last device. Set meter to resistence 200ohms or 2k .
    Make a note of the level & tap the first sensor you want to test. If the reading stays in or near the same after each tap the device is fine.Repeat on each device 5-6 times. Repeat for each device you want to test. Replace any device where readings change by more than a few ohms.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 platium


    Cheers for the help koolkid it was sound advice.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Your welcome. Did you get it sorted?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    1) contact
    2) shock
    3) tamper
    4) tamper
    5) shock
    6) contact

    Hi platium,
    If you are fitting the sensor with a reed switch you need to loop out 1 + 2 with a small piece of cable. then use 3 + 4 for tamper and 5 + 6 for alarm.
    If you are not using the reed then 1 + 6 become spare terminals...
    Hope this helps, any problems let me know...

    Hi
    I also have problem wiring these sensors.I have a sSW16120 board.I was told that I have to fit 4K7 resistors in circuit with sensors and tampers.I have linked terminals 1 and two.Do the resistors go between terminals 23 and five and do I just use two wires back to board and if so which colour ones or do I use four wires and wire tampers seperate back to board,
    thanks Albert


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    Hi
    I also have problem wiring these sensors.I have a sSW16120 board.I was told that I have to fit 4K7 resistors in circuit with sensors and tampers.I have linked terminals 1 and two.Do the resistors go between terminals 23 and five and do I just use two wires back to board and if so which colour ones or do I use four wires and wire tampers seperate back to board,
    thanks Albert


    Hi Albert,

    You should use two cores back at the panel, Use the same colour core that you have used in the sensor. If your using the sensor with the reed you wire it link 1 + 2. One core in 3, one leg of the resistor in 4, double leg of the resistors in 5, single leg of resistor plus the other core in 6. You will need to set the zone to dual end of line.

    Any problems let us know..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Hi Albert,

    You should use two cores back at the panel, Use the same colour core that you have used in the sensor. If your using the sensor with the reed you wire it link 1 + 2. One core in 3, one leg of the resistor in 4, double leg of the resistors in 5, single leg of resistor plus the other core in 6. You will need to set the zone to dual end of line.

    Any problems let us know..

    Thanks understand that.I have only just fitted sensors so nothing wired yet.Have six core cable so I just use two cables from 3 and 6 terminals back to board and use any colour yes.
    Which way around do I fit resistors there are makings on them are they pos and neg and which two tails do i connect together and which go in which terminal.
    On each zone at panel there are four terminals two alarm two two tamper.They have links fitted do I connect wires from sensors into the alarm terminals and if so does it matter which way around and do I leave in link at tamper terminals or take it out.Thank so much for your help,

    Albert

    what is your opinion on wiring the tampers some people have told me should just wire contacts and sensors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    Thanks understand that.I have only just fitted sensors so nothing wired yet.Have six core cable so I just use two cables from 3 and 6 terminals back to board and use any colour yes.

    Correct.

    tangoman wrote: »
    Which way around do I fit resistors there are makings on them are they pos and neg and which two tails do i connect together and which go in which terminal.

    It does not mater which way you use them.
    tangoman wrote: »
    On each zone at panel there are four terminals two alarm two two tamper.They have links fitted do I connect wires from sensors into the alarm terminals and if so does it matter which way around and do I leave in link at tamper terminals or take it out.

    Yes, leave the links in the tamper side of the zone. You will connect the two cores your using into the alarm side of the zone. Again it does not mater which way you wire it into the panel once you have it wired correctly in the sensor.

    tangoman wrote: »
    Thank so much for your help,


    Always happy to help :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    what is your opinion on wiring the tampers some people have told me should just wire contacts and sensors


    The tamper is a must. With out the tamper the sensor can be easily comprised ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    The tamper is a must. With out the tamper the sensor can be easily comprised ;)

    Great understand thank you so much.Whats you name.
    Will start wiring them on Monday.
    I also have on two windows a big window and smaller one on top and was going to put a contact on the smaller window and wire it in with the sensor can I do this and if so do I connect it in series or parallel and whickh terminals do I connect to on Sensor,

    Albert


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hope this helps, it is an example of dual plus single end of line wiring.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Hope this helps, it is an example of dual plus single end of line wiring.

    I have wired the sensors as the single line diagram on the windows with just a single sensors but not sure of the other windows with a sensor and contact not two sensors.There are only two terminals on contact


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hopefully this one will be better for you if your installing contacts. Is there no tamper terminal on them ? Can you post a picture so i can see.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Hopefully this one will be better for you if your installing contacts. Is there no tamper terminal on them ? Can you post a picture so i can see.

    i have not bought contacts yet.I have three windows with one large and one small opening.I have put a sensor on the big window and was just going to put a contact on the smaller window and wire them together maybe you could advise me diffrent


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    i have not bought contacts yet.I have three windows with one large and one small opening.I have put a sensor on the big window and was just going to put a contact on the smaller window and wire them together maybe you could advise me diffrent

    If you want to cover the openings then contacts on them is what you need plus a shock sensor. If the window is over 6 foot, 2 shock sensors are needed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    If you want to cover the openings then contacts on them is what you need plus a shock sensor. If the window is over 6 foot, 2 shock sensors are needed.

    large window is 55 wide by 70 and have sensor on that then there is a top small window 55wide by 30 which i was going to put an extra contact on and wire it in with the sensor or should i put on two sensors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    large window is 55 wide by 70 and have sensor on that then there is a top small window 55wide by 30 which i was going to put an extra contact on and wire it in with the sensor or should i put on two sensors.


    55 inch is just over 4.5 foot. 72 inch is 6 foot. If the whole length of the window is over 6 foot you would need 2 shocks installed. A contact only picks up on an opening of the window so if you want to cover the opening you will need to install a contact for each opening. On windows that only have one opening you could install a shock/contact sensor (just make sure you install it on the opening side of the window) which will cover both options for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    55 inch is just over 4.5 foot. 72 inch is 6 foot. If the whole length of the window is over 6 foot you would need 2 shocks installed. A contact only picks up on an opening of the window so if you want to cover the opening you will need to install a contact for each opening. On windows that only have one opening you could install a shock/contact sensor (just make sure you install it on the opening side of the window) which will cover both options for you.

    sorry that was the size of the openings in cm not inches.

    I think the sensors that i have fitted are are shock/contact sensors they come with a magnet and have fitted them on the opening side of the window but only on the big opening window and did not know to fit another sensor on the small window or just a contact
    i have wired them as your diagram for single end wiring with two resistors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    i have not bought contacts yet.I have three windows with one large and one small opening.I have put a sensor on the big window and was just going to put a contact on the smaller window and wire them together maybe you could advise me diffrent

    This is what you want then ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    This is what you want then ;)

    thanks i presume this is contact with tamper.

    what your opinion on fitting a digi dialler and what type would you recomend.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    thanks i presume this is contact with tamper.

    Just split the red core and resistor on the contact, that is for the tamper. It was the handiest picture to use :D
    tangoman wrote: »
    what your opinion on fitting a digi dialler and what type would you recomend.

    For the panel your using the SW-DMTC is the best one. Very easy to program also. Who is your phone provider ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Just split the red core and resistor on the contact, that is for the tamper. It was the handiest picture to use :D



    For the panel your using the SW-DMTC is the best one. Very easy to program also. Who is your phone provider ?

    eircom.

    so the sensor I wire different to the other ones with no contact.
    all these are wired as your diagram for single line

    you have three wires going to contact red blue and black and two resistors.do I fit resistors at contact or at sensor

    what make is the digi dialler where best to get it

    would it be easier for me to fit an extra sensor instead of a contact as your diagram for dual end of line as I have spare sensors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    eircom.

    so the sensor I wire different to the other ones with no contact.
    all these are wired as your diagram for single line

    you have three wires going to contact red blue and black and two resistors.do I fit resistors at contact or at sensor

    what make is the digi dialler where best to get it

    would it be easier for me to fit an extra sensor instead of a contact as your diagram for dual end of line as I have spare sensors

    Reason is you are only wiring a contact off the sensor. You will have to move the resistors to the last sensor.
    You could do that if you have spare sensors but contacts are a lot cheaper to buy.

    You will get a list of suppliers here

    The link i gave you is for the text dialer off the alarm, You can program up to 17 phone number into the text dialer for self monitoring.

    Any problems let me know.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Reason is you are only wiring a contact off the sensor. You will have to move the resistors to the last sensor.
    You could do that if you have spare sensors but contacts are a lot cheaper to buy.

    You will get a list of suppliers here

    The link i gave you is for the text dialer off the alarm, You can program up to 17 phone number into the text dialer for self monitoring.

    Any problems let me know.

    thanks will have a go tomorrow will get everything working and then worry about digi dialler after


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    thanks will have a go tomorrow will get everything working and then worry about digi dialler after

    Your welcome,

    The dialer will be be the easy part :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Your welcome,

    The dialer will be be the easy part :D

    i was told not to fit resistors in sensor but to just link out 1 and 2 and then one pair of wires from 5 and 6 for alarm and 3 and 4 for tamper
    but have done it your way with just one pair of wires does it make a difference which way it is done


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    i was told not to fit resistors in sensor but to just link out 1 and 2 and then one pair of wires from 5 and 6 for alarm and 3 and 4 for tamper
    but have done it your way with just one pair of wires does it make a difference which way it is done

    Yes it can be done either way but then if someone was to tamper with your sensor cables you would know nothing about. My way is more secure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Yes it can be done either way but then if someone was to tamper with your sensor cables you would know nothing about. My way is more secure.

    have wired all sensors as your diagrams thanks.
    My panel is 12 zone with a 4 zone expander.How do I connect the expander to main panel.
    All my windows and doors are on seterate circuits back to the board.
    Can I connect to any zone.Was told zones 5 6 7 8 are special zones and the front door has to be wired to special zone.
    hAVE fitted Rkp at front door and fitted and connected outside bell box.
    Was going to fit extra rkp in bedroom with a panic button and also fit a panic butten at front door.Can they be connected in with rkp.
    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    have wired all sensors as your diagrams thanks.
    My panel is 12 zone with a 4 zone expander.How do I connect the expander to main panel.
    All my windows and doors are on seterate circuits back to the board.
    Can I connect to any zone.Was told zones 5 6 7 8 are special zones and the front door has to be wired to special zone.
    hAVE fitted Rkp at front door and fitted and connected outside bell box.
    Was going to fit extra rkp in bedroom with a panic button and also fit a panic butten at front door.Can they be connected in with rkp.
    thanks


    Any zone can be used. Zone 1 is usually for the front door as it is set up in the panel as entry/exit but this can be changed in the programming so any zone will do. Zones 5,6,7 and 8 can be configured to use point ID sensors but are set up as ordinary zones for all types of sensors as standard. The keypad has a built in panic button so no need to wire a panic in beside the keypad. * plus # are used to activate this. The expander is wired into the panel on the keypad bus.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    Any zone can be used. Zone 1 is usually for the front door as it is set up in the panel as entry/exit but this can be changed in the programming so any zone will do. Zones 5,6,7 and 8 can be configured to use point ID sensors but are set up as ordinary zones for all types of sensors as standard. The keypad has a built in panic button so no need to wire a panic in beside the keypad. * plus # are used to activate this. The expander is wired into the panel on the keypad bus.

    thanks.
    problem is i cant see without my glasses a i am 73 years old and would not be able to press code for keypad and thats why i wanted to just be able to press a button.
    is it possible to get a remote control to swith on and off alarm.
    i have a beam in the hall and if i come downstairs in morning and want to switch off alarm i wont be able to thats why i was going to put a keypad next to my bed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    thanks.
    problem is i cant see without my glasses a i am 73 years old and would not be able to press code for keypad and thats why i wanted to just be able to press a button.
    is it possible to get a remote control to swith on and off alarm.
    i have a beam in the hall and if i come downstairs in morning and want to switch off alarm i wont be able to thats why i was going to put a keypad next to my bed


    You would of being better off installing the new HKC SECUREWAVE panel. With this panel you could of installed a keyfob into the alarm as it can take wire free devices. You could install a quick bridge onto the alarm you have if you have any free zones to add a kefob for turning the alarm on and off. The quick bridge costs about €80 plus a two button fob would cost about €30. If you want to install panic buttons beside the keypad this can also be done. You will need a free zone for these in the panel. The motion in the hall can either be off at night or you can have it on entry/exit depending on which way you have it set up in the panel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    You would of being better off installing the new HKC SECUREWAVE panel. With this panel you could of installed a keyfob into the alarm as it can take wire free devices. You could install a quick bridge onto the alarm you have if you have any free zones to add a kefob for turning the alarm on and off. The quick bridge costs about €80 plus a two button fob would cost about €30. If you want to install panic buttons beside the keypad this can also be done. You will need a free zone for these in the panel. The motion in the hall can either be off at night or you can have it on entry/exit depending on which way you have it set up in the panel.

    do you know what the new panel would cost and how many zones it has would i still have to buy a keyfob

    i have six wires to keypad how do i wire in panic button


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    do you know what the new panel would cost and how many zones it has would i still have to buy a keyfob

    i have six wires to keypad how do i wire in panic button

    About €150. Yes you would need to buy the keyfob.

    Follow attachment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 264 ✭✭tangoman


    altor wrote: »
    About €150. Yes you would need to buy the keyfob.

    Follow attachment.

    have fitted two sensors as your duel end of line on windows with two openings.how do i connect the black wire from sensor 1 to the end of the resistor in sensor 2 i have a junction box with tamper can i use this as i have a link wire at one window also and would be easier to use a junction box and put the resistors here or do resistors have to be fitted straight in to sensor .
    have two heat alarms do i wire them as normally open or closed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    tangoman wrote: »
    have fitted two sensors as your duel end of line on windows with two openings.how do i connect the black wire from sensor 1 to the end of the resistor in sensor 2 i have a junction box with tamper can i use this as i have a link wire at one window also and would be easier to use a junction box and put the resistors here or do resistors have to be fitted straight in to sensor .
    have two heat alarms do i wire them as normally open or closed

    Best thing to do is use a single connector block inside the sensor.
    They should be n/c.


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