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Homebrew Beer Howto

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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,107 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Right so only got around to dealing with this early this morning before work. No activity on the airlock after 85 hours. There is a krausen building on top. I took a sample and it's gone from 1.050 to 1.030 so it is fermenting. I just gave it a good stir and left it alone.

    1.050 to 1.030 tells me you've already got an ABV of 2.6%. And you got that with no CO2 produced as evidenced by no airlock activity?? I don't see how that's possible, unless your fermenter is leaking out the CO2 unknown to you.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Gooey Looey


    TomOnBoard wrote: »
    1.050 to 1.030 tells me you've already got an ABV of 2.6%. And you got that with no CO2 produced as evidenced by no airlock activity?? I don't see how that's possible, unless your fermenter is leaking out the CO2 unknown to you.

    There is no leak, it's perfectly sealed, I've checked and double checked. When I put slight pressure on the fermenter lid the airlock water level rises.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    Oxygen is the worst thing for your beer. Don't open it and stir when it's fermenting. Leave it alone for 8 days before opening, unless your dry hopping.

    No activity in airlock means nothing, might be too much headspace in the fermentor.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,763 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Airlocks aren't a reliable indication of anything. It sounds like your beer is fermenting away fine. You didn't need to stir it and the best thing now is to leave it alone. CO2 is creeping out of the fermenter some way, but it doesn't matter.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Gooey Looey


    Sh1t, hope I didn't mess up the brew by stirring it


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    Sh1t, hope I didn't mess up the brew by stirring it

    Should be fine if it was a gentle stir.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Gooey Looey


    It's very active now, so much so the krausen bubbled out the airlock had to clean it. I always keep a second sterilised airlock on hand in a sealed freezer bag.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Gooey Looey


    Had my first taste of this American IPA which ended up 5.7%. Lovely hoppy nose to it, it's going to be lovely. It needs another few days to clear fully


  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Is mashing in the lower range a general rule of thumb for less sweet and claggy, or do you need to tailor your grain to suit that anyway? I’ve the grain for an IPA that has 69 for an hour on the recipe so I was wondering would 64/65 work or has that grain been especially selected for 69 degrees?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,107 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Is mashing in the lower range a general rule of thumb for less sweet and claggy, or do you need to tailor your grain to suit that anyway? I’ve the grain for an IPA that has 69 for an hour on the recipe so I was wondering would 64/65 work or has that grain been especially selected for 69 degrees?

    As far as I know, unless you're doing a step mash, you pick a mashing temp and try to ensure it stays close for the hour or so to ensure all the convertible starches make it into sugars. I can't see how a steady 64/65 would be hugely different from a steady 69 from a perception point of view, although I would expect the lower mash temp beer to end up with a higher attenuation with consequent higher ABV. In your case, I'd be inclined to split the difference and mash at 67...


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,643 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    TBH I do everything at 67ish. I don't have the equipment to be able to hold a temperature that accurately, also I'd imagine there's going to be variations throughout the mash tun (e.g. my kettle heats from the bottom)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,510 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I start all my mashes at 66 and they finish at 64


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    Is mashing in the lower range a general rule of thumb for less sweet and claggy, or do you need to tailor your grain to suit that anyway? I’ve the grain for an IPA that has 69 for an hour on the recipe so I was wondering would 64/65 work or has that grain been especially selected for 69 degrees?

    69 would be for body and a higher FG, wouldn't recommend it generally. Maybe if it's a session IPA


  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    RasTa wrote: »
    69 would be for body and a higher FG, wouldn't recommend it generally. Maybe if it's a session IPA

    This one is a DIPA but a session is probably what I’d rather make. Not even sure why I bought a DIPA, I can’t remember the last one I tasted that I liked.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    65 is fine so.


  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    RasTa wrote: »
    65 is fine so.

    Actually would removing some of the grain from the mix altogether make it more like a regular IPA? It’s 6kg at the minute so could I go to 4.5-5kg instead? I know the ratio of grains wouldn’t transfer over but after a good mix it might be close enough.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    What's the kit/grains? Diluting it with water probably a better bet or even do a table beer with a second runnings.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,107 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    . Not even sure why I bought a DIPA, I can’t remember the last one I tasted that I liked.

    I've been there a few times as well... Nothing worse that taking the first taste of a brew after weeks of fermentation and conditioning and finding that you ordered the wrong kit!


  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    RasTa wrote: »
    What's the kit/grains? Diluting it with water probably a better bet or even do a table beer with a second runnings.

    It’s a Homebrew company one though I’ve just discovered I never froze the hops so I won’t make it at all now.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Gooey Looey


    Guys I took a punt on the new recipe experimental New England IPA from geterbrewed in November and it was ready last week and will be polished tonight. So glad I did. It's amazing! Hazy, no bitterness and very juicy. So refreshing to drink and everyone I've given to has said the same. The new recipe has 3x buckets of lite malt and there seems to be more yeast than before. Mine turned out at 6.3%. Made another batch today
    https://www.geterbrewed.ie/neipa-beer-kit/

    537827.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,302 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    Absolute noob here folks - looking at potential 40th birthday presents for myself...the ale kit at the below link, so I only need to get a Keg is that correct? And the kit has everything else I need?

    https://www.homebrew.ie/collections/youngs-american-craft-kits/products/youngs-american-pale-ale

    This is the kit I’m looking at - from the same website
    https://www.homebrew.ie/collections/kegs-vinotainer/products/5-gallon-basic-white-barrel-with-injector-system

    Thanks guys for any direction ðŸ‘ðŸ»


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,763 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    You need more than that. This is the problem with "kit" in homebrew meaning concentrated hopped wort supplied with yeast (your first link), and the usual human meaning of "kit" to mean equipment required for a task. It's the latter you're lacking: a vessel to ferment in, a way of reading the gravity, and a method of transferring the beer from fermenter to serving container(s).

    From the Beer Starter Kits section of the same site, they have the equipment sets you need to start off. Some of them come with a beer kit supplied.

    I don't know anyone who has been happy with those pressure kegs for very long. Bottling is better, IMO. Save your empties, and get caps and a capper.

    It's confusing for everyone starting out. Keep asking questions and we'll keep you right.


  • Registered Users Posts: 57 ✭✭nsi423


    Just to second what BeerNut said, I started making beer kits about a year ago and it was confusing at first. I got plastic bottles I begin with but I don't use them now, instead I got a capper and I reuse glass beer bottles (500ml chunky ones, not thin 330ml ones).
    It's very satisfying to crack open a nice cold beer that you brewed yourself! (well, using the concentrated malt extract, but your mates don't need to know that ;) )

    I got some good info on this forum too! Folks are very helpful


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,302 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    BeerNut wrote: »
    You need more than that. This is the problem with "kit" in homebrew meaning concentrated hopped wort supplied with yeast (your first link), and the usual human meaning of "kit" to mean equipment required for a task. It's the latter you're lacking: a vessel to ferment in, a way of reading the gravity, and a method of transferring the beer from fermenter to serving container(s).

    From the Beer Starter Kits section of the same site, they have the equipment sets you need to start off. Some of them come with a beer kit supplied.

    I don't know anyone who has been happy with those pressure kegs for very long. Bottling is better, IMO. Save your empties, and get caps and a capper.

    It's confusing for everyone starting out. Keep asking questions and we'll keep you right.

    Cheers thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,510 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    Absolute noob here folks - looking at potential 40th birthday presents for myself...the ale kit at the below link, so I only need to get a Keg is that correct? And the kit has everything else I need?

    https://www.homebrew.ie/collections/youngs-american-craft-kits/products/youngs-american-pale-ale

    This is the kit I’m looking at - from the same website
    https://www.homebrew.ie/collections/kegs-vinotainer/products/5-gallon-basic-white-barrel-with-injector-system

    Thanks guys for any direction ðŸ‘ðŸ»

    Those barrels are fine if you plan to drink the beer in a short space of time, let’s say 3 weeks to mature and then empty it over the next couple of weeks.

    Beer Nut always gives good advice on here and what he says is bang on, no need to add more really.

    Home brewing may seem confusing and complicated when you’re starting out but it’s actually very simple, when using kits it’s embarrassingly simple!

    Ignore the instructions you get with the kit, they’re awful. Once you get all your kit ingredients dissolved in your fermenting bucket add your yeast and leave it all alone at 19 or 20 degrees for a couple of weeks. You only need to keep an eye the first couple of days to check the yeast is working, ignore the airlock and check for a layer of foam forming over the top of the beer. Airlocks are a very poor indicator of activity.
    Try not to open the top of the fermenting bucket until you’re ready to bottle.
    Batch priming is the easiest method for priming when you get to the bottling stage.
    Once bottled keep the bottles at the same 19 to 20 degrees for 3 weeks then chill and enjoy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,302 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    Bogwoppit wrote: »
    Those barrels are fine if you plan to drink the beer in a short space of time, let’s say 3 weeks to mature and then empty it over the next couple of weeks.

    Beer Nut always gives good advice on here and what he says is bang on, no need to add more really.

    Home brewing may seem confusing and complicated when you’re starting out but it’s actually very simple, when using kits it’s embarrassingly simple!

    Ignore the instructions you get with the kit, they’re awful. Once you get all your kit ingredients dissolved in your fermenting bucket add your yeast and leave it all alone at 19 or 20 degrees for a couple of weeks. You only need to keep an eye the first couple of days to check the yeast is working, ignore the airlock and check for a layer of foam forming over the top of the beer. Airlocks are a very poor indicator of activity.
    Try not to open the top of the fermenting bucket until you’re ready to bottle.
    Batch priming is the easiest method for priming when you get to the bottling stage.
    Once bottled keep the bottles at the same 19 to 20 degrees for 3 weeks then chill and enjoy.

    How will I know when it’s ready to bottle - is it a trial and error kind of thing or do I test alcohol percentage after 2 weeks and if it’s above or below a certain value I leave it for another week?

    The guy on the site said about adding carbonation drops at the time of bottling too - this is standard?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,510 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    How will I know when it’s ready to bottle - is it a trial and error kind of thing or do I test alcohol percentage after 2 weeks and if it’s above or below a certain value I leave it for another week?

    The guy on the site said about adding carbonation drops at the time of bottling too - this is standard?

    You know it’s ready when the specific gravity (SG) reading is steady for a couple of days, usually in the range of 1.007 to 1.014, you measure it with the hydrometer.

    Carbonation drops can be used but batch priming with regular sugar is easier and more consistent.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,763 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Generally, you'll find a flurry of activity over the first week, and I wouldn't even bother taking gravity readings at this stage, beyond the initial one you take before pitching the yeast (your OG -- original gravity). In the second week it'll likely have settled, and you can take a reading every couple of days. Even if they're consistent, it's still worth leaving the beer alone for a full two weeks in the fermenter to help it mature. A third or even a fourth week won't do it any harm either. You get better results when you don't rush things.

    Carbonation drops are just an expensive way of buying sugar. Batch priming, as Bogwoppit says, is ideal, though you need an extra fermenting bucket for that. You mix up your sugar solution, put it in the sanitised bucket, then siphon the beer in on top of it and then bottle immediately. You can use a calculator like this to work out how much sugar you need. I find 2.2 or 2.3 volumes of CO2 is the right amount for most beers.

    However, the super-easy no-fuss method is just to spoon a half-teaspoon of sugar into each bottle. You won't have the same control over how fizzy each one is, but as a process it's better for your blood pressure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,302 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    Thanks guys, this is already one of the most helpful subforums Ive been on in Boards.ie :)

    When spooning the sugar into the bottles (i'll try this first before moving onto batch priming) - do i do this before the beer is poured in, or after it - or does it make a difference?

    And the C02 (i.e. the fizziness of the beer) is a bi-product of the 2nd fermentation phase within the bottle itself?

    Thanks again :pac:


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,763 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    When spooning the sugar into the bottles (i'll try this first before moving onto batch priming) - do i do this before the beer is poured in, or after it - or does it make a difference?
    I don't think it makes a difference -- the yeast will find the sugar regardless. Probably best to add the sugar after, because if there's overflow when filling, that may bring some of your sugar out with it if it's already in there.
    And the C02 (i.e. the fizziness of the beer) is a bi-product of the 2nd fermentation phase within the bottle itself?
    Exactly. By priming the bottles you're kicking off a new phase of fermentation which will produce a tiny bit of extra alcohol and (hopefully!) just enough CO2 to carbonate the beer.


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