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Geo Theromal Heating

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  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    does that include the presurrised cylinder (Is it a thermal store)???

    yes that includes the pressurised cylinder - but it's not a buffer tank or anything - ie it's part of the hot water system and it doesnt share energy with the heating system - there's no real need for a thermal store as i am on nightrate electricity and i am not using solar/ wind or anyting - so it just heats up the slab and the hot water tank in the night time and i have the heat during the day - but it can also come on at daytime if it gets cold
    Are you sure it is an 18kw heat pump, I have got in roughly 10 quotes for a 2100sq ft house and the max pump they recommend is 12kw.

    pretty sure yea !!! - it was a size too big for the house but the company says its better to go a little too big so you have room to expand, etc. however the plumber who put the system in ( who is not really connected to the heating company ) said that he just worked on a house where the heat pump recomended was too small - so it can happen - i would at least give ecoheat a shot at a quote - they have a completely different approach to all the others - imo the more aspect/perspective you can get on a job like this the better !!!

    What sort of electric bill are you running?

    dont know yet -- but be warned power bills for underfloor heating are massive for the first three months while the slab heats up and dries out

    How long does it run for at nite?

    not sure yet - too much other stuff on my mind
    Does it mean you have constant heat in the UFH and hot water on demand?

    well having ufh more or less implies constant heat anyway afaik - even if it's on a trad boiler - that's the way the systems are designed to operate - so the heat pump doesnt change this afaik
    -- yes 24 7 hot water !!! :)

    I presume it is a brine system you have in?

    i dont think so !!! why would it be - you mean in the ufh - ?? - no the pipes are filled with regular water


    Anybody know if it's possible to mix geothermal and wood pellet systems (as a kind of back up/supplement to the geo) or am I going for overkill?


    first off i'd say imo it's a tiny bit overkill - but then it's your house so do it your way - on my system i know there is a facility for a backup boiler but a regular oil boiler would probably do as you will hardly ever need to use it - i mean it's not like the geothermal will not get enough heat or anything - however it's worth remembering that geothermal runs on esb so if the power goes for a few days you could be screwed unless you have a generator ( i invested in one myself - buy and sell 400 for a 5.5kva and then i got the electrician to install a transfer switch ) - which i suppose could be a little overkill in itself .... in general though i would be thinking more in terms of a backup system than a suppmental system - unless you go for solar/wind in which case i think you need a buffer tank to work it properly - and when i investigated that it was pretty costly
    also the hot water cylinder which i got has a few spare coils which mean that i could potentially suplement the domestic hot water heating using solar/wind/backboiler or whatever ---that could save on the esb

    I think you can go for a dual coil buffer tank with some systems, one coil supplying heat from the geothermal and the other coil supplying heat from the open fire with back boiler, stove with boiler, oil boiler, gas boiler, etc.


    yes it would make sense that if you had a buffer tank for the ufh you would be able to have a couple of coils in it which means that you can store heat from whatever heat source is available at the time - ie solar/wind/back boiler - so solar when it's sunny, wind when it's windy, back boiler when you've got the fire lit -- but it makes no sense to me to have an oil boiler connected to a buffer tank as it's always the same - ie you can turn it on at anytime an so there's no need to store the heat for later when you need it - the only real place an oil boiler has with a heat pump is in a backup scenario as the two do basically the same thing and if you are running a backup system then there's no need for a buffer tank as that's more for supplemental - you could however have a heat pump running an oil boiler as a backup and then having a buffer tank for use with solar/wind/bboiler but that could get really expensive
    myself i have the generator as backup in case the power goes down and i MIGHT get a buffer tank in the future for use with a wind gen but afaik those things take about 14 years to pay for themselves

    ps all this reminds me that dedicated cylinders are huge - and buffer tanks are even bigger and you really need to incorporate a suitable space for them aswell as all the rest of the plant - hot press just wont do- except it's a cool place for the ufh manifold --- also if you stick it on the end of a bungalow as i did then you'll have to wait a full minute for the water to come hot in the tap !! dont say you werent warned !!!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Thanks for the update, I can understand the oversizing alright, it gives you more room for expansion.

    On the brine - this is the mix , water and anti-freeze that is pumped outside in your loop for the geo. I presume you have about 6 or 700 metres of pipe in the garden??

    There now seems to be this D/X (Direct Expansion) system out there that uses a refrigerant instead of the brine, it means about 1/6th the amount of pipe and they say it gives you heat to 80 degrees Cent. so no need for domestic water kits or heat plates, as well as that they do not require a pump as the brine system does so therefore cuts down the number of working parts and also the cost of running the system.

    The argument some companies have is that if you have your large thermal store or buffer tank is that there is store of water built up over night and you use it away, I presume you have the same idea, did you say you paid 4k for the cylinder???

    Then there is the air 2 air solution!! Choices smoices, I will be gone mad!! ;)

    I was talking to a girl here at work and they have a 3300 sq foot castle, I mean house, and they have geo.
    There elect bill was 500 yoyos for the 2 months. Have UFH as well.

    Where are you based do you mind me asking???
    I presume it is Lenister??
    Did you get many other quotes??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 96 ✭✭qazxsw


    heat merchants 500 Ltr stainless steel dual coil tank, E 2050 + vat


    www.heatmearchants.ie code u80104, or search for cylinder stainless steel


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 534 ✭✭✭Doper Than U


    500 euros for two months??? Is that the initial two months that Bob spoke of, or a typical price? I was really hoping to go as self-sufficient (and oil free) as possible, but that doesn't really fit in with relying so heavily on the ESB for electricity for the pump. As you say, solar and wind are options, but they themselves are not guaranteed. I wonder how possible it would be to primarily run off solar and have the ESB connection as back up... and how practical would it be? Maybe I would need the wood pellets as a back up too...
    I'll be looking to use a Heat Recovery system as well (God, I really am going for overkill, but I only want to do this once).


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    The argument some companies have is that if you have your large thermal store or buffer tank is that there is store of water built up over night and you use it away, I presume you have the same idea, did you say you paid 4k for the cylinder???


    the store of water i have built up overnight is not for use with the heating system but the domestic hot water - there is no connection - i dont have a buffer tank at all - other than the fact that the cylinder is it's own buffer tank !! of course the slab is in a way it;s own buffer too in that it gets heated on night rate electicity and then stores it - buffers really only come into their own with wind/solar - saw a house in austria which depended enirely on a combination of solar and a buffer system - no other heating - on duncan's program last year i think

    yes i paid about 4k for it ( i think it might have been a bit less ) - can get the exact figure if you want --
    it is not just a pressurised cylinder, but it has it's own dedicated heat pump backup immersion and also is really well insulated, along with having about 3 spare coils for solar etc

    this is the main heat pump and the cylinder is a bit like this


    we are in kilkenny - we got about 4 quotes i think

    in case you're interested in the system we used then i see you're in mayo but i dont think it would make a lot of difference to the price to be honest because they just explain in detail to local trades how to fit the thing and then they drive up and commission it


    I wonder how possible it would be to primarily run off solar and have the ESB connection as back up... and how practical would it be? Maybe I would need the wood pellets as a back up too...

    yes as i mentioned earlier in the post there was a guy on that program with a house in austria which ran entirely from solar - but he had something like a 200hectolitre tank surrounded by about a metre of insulation and he had a custom built computer control system for managing his store of heat - then he had some special design in the house which maximized passive solar heating too - however i think what you need is a cut down version of the same thing - get as big a buffer as you can and as much solar panels as you and then get maybe the wool pellet boiler as a supplemental / backup ( in that you can turn it on when you need it ) and you should be sorted

    it all really boils down to payback time -- i mean you can easily get free energy if you really want it but it might never pay for itself - heat pumps and wood pellet boilers i think are a better bet than wind power - not sure about solar but it's useless for heating unless you've got a buffer and i think buffers start at about 7 grand ( could be wrong here - but if you think about it they have got to be humungous to get the desired effect )


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    500 euros for two months??? Is that the initial two months that Bob spoke of, or a typical price? I was really hoping to go as self-sufficient (and oil free) as possible, but that doesn't really fit in with relying so heavily on the ESB for electricity for the pump

    Doper that is not very high to be totally honest. The average ESB bill now a days would come in close to 200 euro anyway for the 2 months, my parents live on their own and theirs was 230, but it was the xmas period.

    So if you take out the ESB, you are talking 300 euro over the 2 months to heat the house, 150 per month, 1800 per year, but remember this is a 3300 sq foot house. BTW they also have a Jacuzzi, which is keep running all the time, so I am sure this takes a big chunk of electricity.

    I have been told that to run the Geo heat pump it cost 1.5kw of enegy per hour for a 10kw heat pump, I think it is 12c per kw, so you are talking about 18c per hour, if you have it on 10 hours a day, 356 days a year you are looking at about 700 euro for the year.

    That is a serious cylinder, I would have thought that even though a standard cyclinder would not work that you would not have needed to pay out that money for a cylinder.

    I am off to hopefully see an Air 2 Air system over the next week or so, I will keep ye updated on what I think of it


    I meant to say that I would probably be installing a Windsave unit in the house, it will at least use the wind around us to give us some free electricity. Going to cost about 1500 euro


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 96 ✭✭qazxsw


    Windsave looks interesting,
    are there any planning issues you are aware of with the windsave turbine ?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Not where I am lad, I have talked to my engineer and he seems to think that there should not be an issue


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Well lads,
    As an update, I spent a while of free time today doing a bit of research and have come to the conclusion that I will be going down the Direct Expansion (D/X) ground loop geothermal solution.
    I have pasted in a number of links there for you to view, very interesting and good comparisons.

    Slán

    http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=geo_heat.pr_crit_geo_heat_pumps
    http://www.geothermix.com/english/product/direct1.html
    http://tristate.apogee.net/geo/faqs.asp
    http://www.heatpumpcentre.org/About_heat_pumps/Heat_sources.asp
    http://www.heatpumps.co.uk/groundsource.htm


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    I would have thought that even though a standard cyclinder would not work that you would not have needed to pay out that money for a cylinder

    correct - but i think a lot of the expense was for the second heat pump and collector system attached to the cylinder - forgot to mention that this means that i have hot water through the summer without turning on the main heat pump



    ........ windsave -- never heard of it
    do you have any links ?? sounds like something i might be into

    hope the system youve chosen works out for you - looks like you're doing a good bit of research anyway


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  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭fearrchair


    You can find a little information on their website at www.winsave.com

    More information can be got if you do a search on Google but some of it is repeated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist




    web hosting :confused:

    no worries i'll get it


  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭fearrchair


    Very Sorry just typed it from memory...

    http://www.windsave.com/index.htm


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    any idea how much these windsave units are and whether they install them here or are there any irish distributers here or what


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 106 ✭✭Goll Mac Morna


    bobmurphy wrote:
    any idea how much these windsave units are and whether they install them here or are there any irish distributers here or what

    The whole unit (turbine and inverter that plugs into the ring main) is £1,200.
    Windsave is being distributed in Ireland by a company in Ballyclare called BUILDING PRODUCTS email buildingproducts@btconnect.com.

    One thing about the WINDSAVE is that as far as I know, (or as far as I have been told by someone who is big into WIND power) the WINDSAVE will not provide power when the mains supply is off. (e.g. during a power cut)
    You will notice on www.windsave.com that the describe their device as one that "...references from the mains..." so I presume when the mains is not on the windsave doesn't provide your power.

    In any case it looks like a great product if it will reduce electricity bills by 30% (the only concern I have about this figure is that it is more than likely based on the WINDSAVE having maximum output in ideal wind conditions prob. something like constant 12mph winds)

    If you find out good info from them will you PM me or post to this board as I am trying to find out/ make final decisions on about a thousand other things @ the minute as the countdown begins to starting to build our house!!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭pitstop


    Great topic - finally some people who have heard about Geothermal!! Read ALL the posts and must say - thanks for being so honest, the choice is amazing not to mention the price variations!!!

    So, tons of ???s

    Just building a 2700 sq ft block house on 2 acre site and would like UFH on both floors with geo thermal (thinking of Dunstar??), so here goes with the ???s


    Don't want to pay ESB all that money on the pump - what other options do I have?? Have a south facing roof so was think solar but don't know anything about it or it's effectiveness and how it would work (doing my own electrics so not sure about this). Also thought about wind as site is quite windy BUT still concerned about the potential health hazards (I know, I know - not proven blah, blah, blah but don't want to take the chance).

    Have 4 showers - do I need to go the "Bob" route in terms of hot water - hoping not?? If I don't go down Bob's route - what options do I have for hot water outside of immersion??

    Can I integrate a solid fuel option with UFH and hot water even when using geo thermal??

    Yop - you seem to have done some serious research - what did you decide in the end - let me know if you would prefer I PM you for that info??

    Really appreciated any help - Deadwork is started so need to make decisions NOW.

    BTW - why are there no other girls on here??? - do we only build our own homes in Cork?? :p

    Thanks in advance

    Pitstop

    PS - Saw a new development of 8 houses last week-end - developer used geo-thermal as a major differentiator to the market - the more popular it gets, the better!


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 90,843 Mod ✭✭✭✭Capt'n Midnight


    (the only concern I have about this figure is that it is more than likely based on the WINDSAVE having maximum output in ideal wind conditions prob. something like constant 12mph winds)
    The brochure says 12m/s = 30Kmph (~20 Mph)
    Rated output nominally 1KW at 12m/s rated wind speed.
    ....
    6m/s (a fairly average UK windspeed) nominally 40-45 dBA


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 534 ✭✭✭Doper Than U


    BTW - why are there no other girls on here??? - do we only build our own homes in Cork??

    Nope, ;) I'm building my house in Wicklow...

    Good questions though, I'm thinking along the same lines as you. I'm not happy about that ESB bill as I was hoping to be as self sufficient as possible. Anyone know the electricity needed to power a pump like that (like KWh per year etc), and whether wind/solar/both will do the job most of the time with ESB power there as back up.

    If I were to integrate solid fuel (I'm thinking wood as it's CO2 neutral) would a rayburn do the job?


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    Anyone know the electricity needed to power a pump like that (like KWh per year etc), and whether wind/solar/both will do the job most of the time with ESB power there as back up.



    i think in our case the system takes 3.3kva -- which would mean that for instance if you had a petrol generator or something like that ( i know you wouldnt but just for ilustrative purposes) then you would need a 3.3kva generator for the heating alone

    please double check that figure it is only from memory and i was never 100% sure of it anyway

    oh and i think the esb provide you with a 12kva supply for a domestic house




    the trouble with alternative sources of power like wind and solar is that they are not there all the time -- which means that you need to store them - which from an ufh point of view means that you either need in the case of wind power to get a battery bank and an inverter ( very expensive ) or in either case you can use what i think is called a buffer tank - also very expensive and very large ( though i think your domestic hot water cylinder can be incorporated into it also which saves a bit of space )
    next problem is that with the battery/inverter setup the batteries will only last so long before you have to replace them - and they are the most expensive bit --- it all comes down to payback time and afaik the payback time on these systems is just too long ( it could be 10 - 15 years ) with very little other benefits

    -- this seems to be one of the major benefits of the windsave system in that you dont have to worry about storage as the electricity is used straight away - having read about these in the last day or two i am not considering the notion that as heat pump houses would have a normally high esb bill that they could benefit from more than one of these devices - any comments anyone ???

    wind/solar/both will do the job most of the time with ESB power there as back up

    this is the idea i originaly toyed with but i gave up on it because of the high cost of storage -- you should have a look into the windsave yourself as it seems a better idea than a standard turbine

    solar - an ideal use of solar is to heat your hot water --- i think you can get 60% of your hot water free from the sun or something like that - i plan on investing at some stage myself


    Have 4 showers - do I need to go the "Bob" route in terms of hot water - hoping not?? If I don't go down Bob's route - what options do I have for hot water outside of immersion??

    im offended :D -- no just kidding !!!


    afaik the only real options are:
    1 - use main hp to heat dom hw - ( prob is main hp comes on during summer and water may not be that hot so supplement with immersion and/or use a large ( HUGE) cylinder - or else put up with only one bath/shower at a time as cylinder will have to fill and heat again - ok for small occupancy )

    2 have a secondary heat pump - this is what i did - pretty expensive but obviously i thought it was worth it - 24 7 365 cheapish hot water / pressurised system - no need for shower pumps - main heat pump doesn't come on if not needed

    3 supplement either 1 or 2 using solar/wind/back boiler --- starting to get a bit expensive again i think but you might manage free hot water - in fact this is what i'm aiming at

    4 same as 3 but have the primary emphasis on the solar/wind etc power

    5 immersion only - argghh

    6 cooker or something like a range heating the hot water

    there are many other ways of heating your water but these seem like the most likely ones to me - it basicaly comes down to having either one or 2 heat pumps and either supplimenting that or not with wind/solar etc or else relying primarily on wind/solar and use an immersion for backup


    i think this covers it but i'm open to suggestions and corrections
    Can I integrate a solid fuel option with UFH and hot water even when using geo thermal??

    not sure about the ufh ( you might need to have some kind of a buffer or something where the hp heat and solid fuel heat can mix ) -- but you can certainly do it with reguard to the hot water anyway i think because all you need is to have an extra coil on your cylinder and put the solid fuel heat through one and whatever you're using to heat the water through the other ( get lots of spare coils is my advice - you never know when you''ll want them)

    UFH on both floors

    pitstop i did ufh upstairs on my house and i did the concrete screed method upstairs ( you can use the battens method either ) -- well just to say that it was a great decision - i dont think it was a large expense and the floor upstaris is very solid with minimal floor/ceiling noise too - everyone comments on it

    another thing i think you should do is to put insulation between the floors - this is not normally done but it gives you a better chance of containing downstairs heat downstairs because all that heat downstairs can make upstairs pretty hot and you might not like it that way

    I presume when the mains is not on the windsave doesn't provide your power.

    i would say you are correct -- the windsave system needs to put it's ac output in phase with the house's , so it presumably copies it - and if the house has none then i would think it might not have anything to copy so it wouldnt surprise me if it just stopped - also it would not be safe to provide the power to the house though the ring main - i mean if someone turned on the hob ,oven and drier or something toghter then the ring main would be under serious pressure to cope --

    personally i have a small backup generator powering the house via a transfer switch in case of powercut but i would imaging that the windsave would reference against that and it would take some of the load off the generator and give me a bit more headroom in terms of what i could turn on if the esb power was off-


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭pitstop


    Bob

    You're a star - thanks for all the answers!

    Re: UFH - Do you have a first floor slab or joists - sounds like a slab - going with joists, but going with some sort of screed on/between them otherwise it's not going to be as effective.

    Sounds like I will go your route (I really want that extra water!! - very clean people here :D ) and then put in windsave as well. I might also look at the solar option - I have loads of south facing space for it but as you say, the costs are not in the panel itself. However, as it will all add up in terms of costs, it's probably easier for me to add the winsave later than solar so that might make my mind up.

    Had a politician at my door last night (Paddy's day - what's that about??) - told him my views about no grant aid for this - agree with you that it's bloody ridculous!!

    Thanks a bunch - sorry, but I'm gonna plagued you with ???s!!

    Pitstop


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    The Windsave I am humming and hawing about, I am 60% going with them, have to clarify the planning issue, funds will dictate it in the end but if anyone can find out anyone who has it then let us know if they are happy.
    I presume that if you have one of these installed regardless of whether or not you have a HP installed?

    The GEO lads that I am now considering for the D/X system tell me that you unit uses 2kw per hour, now these lads provide a 300l buffer tank with immersion for boosting but mainly for use to kill bacteria etc. They say that it should heat the 300 lites in between 15 and 20 minutes. I have to get prices off them but it looks something close to 11k for the GEO.

    Pitstop - welcome to the forum and good luck with the house. On the UFH we are doing a TF house and I am doing the UFH myself, got it all for 4200 euro delivered for a 2100 sq ft house.
    We are going with a light screen over the OSB on the joists.

    Politicians and grants - I have emailed local TD's, Michael Ring, Enda Jenny, have emailed the Dept of Envirnoment Dick Roache and Minister Dempsey, got no joy with anyone, told me that grants are available only to house schemes, so if you are a builder with money, and decide to install Geo, they get a grant, but for us private owners, we get naught, then again we are in a fupped up country.
    Then again lads if ye want to try and band together and see if we can get grants then please suggest a method of publicity?


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    pitstop
    Do you have a first floor slab or joists - sounds like a slab - going with joists, but going with some sort of screed on/between them otherwise it's not going to be as effective.


    joists - 9 by 4 i think ( or 3 maybe ?? ) - i can find out if you want. then on top of that was nailed a plywood 1/2 in or 3/4 in sheet. then on top of that the builder acutully nailed 2 * 2 battons for screeding because it is easier to screed that way but the plumber said you cant really have battens ( except maybe one near the edges. in the end they took them all up and after the pipes were laid they just used a couple of loose bits of 2*2 for screeding. you dont actually screed between the joists, as you can see
    MAKE SURE that any wiring/plumbing/insulation etc that has to be done between the joists is done before you lay the screed because theres no going back !!!
    I might also look at the solar option

    solar is ideal for helping to heat the domestic hot water because you just bung it through a spare coil in your cylinder ( make sure you get one when you're ordering it though !!! - cant really be added later without taking the cylinder out !!! ) . not sure if it's as easy to use solar panels to supplement the heating because most of the systems i've seen dont have a buffer tank for the heating.


    yop
    these lads provide a 300l buffer tank

    is this the tank where your domestic hot water comes from ??? or do you have a seperate cylinder for that ??


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    is this the tank where your domestic hot water comes from ??? or do you have a seperate cylinder for that ??
    I went to see a live Aerothermal site today. In this lads house in Leitrim he has the Sweco D/X system installed. He has a 1700sq foot house, 7.4KW HP installed, got a 300L Buffer Tank/Thermal Store/Cylinder, he has his rads running off this, unlimited domestic hot water.
    Now my presumption is that this 300L vessel would feed everything directly, BUT I am not 100% sure. I can find out for you though.
    Definately it directly feeds his rads so I presume it feeds his dom water also.

    This system cost him 8k though by the way


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭pitstop


    yop wrote:
    I went to see a live Aerothermal site today. In this lads house in Leitrim he has the Sweco D/X system installed. He has a 1700sq foot house, 7.4KW HP installed, got a 300L Buffer Tank/Thermal Store/Cylinder, he has his rads running off this, unlimited domestic hot water.
    Now my presumption is that this 300L vessel would feed everything directly, BUT I am not 100% sure. I can find out for you though.
    Definately it directly feeds his rads so I presume it feeds his dom water also.

    This system cost him 8k though by the way

    Yop - thanks for this, sounds expensive (that was excluding the aerothermal?!!) Did he have any issues??

    Are u still thinking of D/X geothermal?? I'm heading that way at present. My plumber is extortionate so deffo looking at installing myself.

    Thanks

    Pitstop


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭pitstop


    bobmurphy wrote:
    pitstop

    joists - 9 by 4 i think ( or 3 maybe ?? ) - i can find out if you want. QUOTE]


    Thanks Bob, one job that I now clearly know what to do!

    Were the joists 4 or 3 because of UFH, standard is 9 x 2 (according to me :D )!!

    Thanks again

    Pitstop


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    PitStop - That 8k was for the whole unit, Air Source heapump, tank and controller unit.
    I think that it is actually a good price.

    Yip D/X is the way for me alright, I downloaded a couple of University papers from net last nite so I will be reading them to see if Air Source or Ground Source is the best system.


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭thetourist


    got a 300L Buffer Tank/Thermal Store/Cylinder, he has his rads running off this, unlimited domestic hot water.

    300l = 60gal -- that's only a standard size tank - considering that heat pump domestic hot water is not at all as hot as oil burner hot water, it seems like a small cylinder for his hot water needs let alone using it as a thermal store - personally i would want to have at least that for the domestic hot water - unless he has some way of getting the water a lot hotter !!!
    i talked to a guy about a thermal store a while ago and it cost about 7k alone - i always thought that you needed to have a really big cylinder to use it as a thermal store !!! i really would not want my ufh to be able to "steal" my hot water on me just because the house got cold at the same time as i wanted to have a shower - think about it - you would def need contingency as it could get a bit messy !!!
    just my 2c worth :p


    Were the joists 4 or 3 because of UFH, standard is 9 x 2 (according to me )!!


    no the builder put them in that size because he's into that kind of thing i think - i didnt know any better at the time - but it's no harm anyway because they have to support the slab aswell as everything else - i'm really happy with them that way now !!


  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭pitstop


    yop wrote:
    PitStop - That 8k was for the whole unit, Air Source heapump, tank and controller unit.
    I think that it is actually a good price.

    Yip D/X is the way for me alright, I downloaded a couple of University papers from net last nite so I will be reading them to see if Air Source or Ground Source is the best system.

    Ahem.....that is a good price - all in - WOW!

    Yop - thought you were not into Air Source earlier on - did something change your mind???

    bobmurphy wrote:
    no the builder put them in that size because he's into that kind of thing i think - i didnt know any better at the time - but it's no harm anyway because they have to support the slab aswell as everything else - i'm really happy with them that way now !!

    Happy with that - no harm in this at all (although me pennies are well spent so won't do ANYTHING extra at this stage) :(:(

    Night lads

    Pitstop


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    300l = 60gal -- that's only a standard size tank - considering that heat pump domestic hot water is not at all as hot as oil burner hot water, it seems like a small cylinder for his hot water needs let alone using it as a thermal store - personally i would want to have at least that for the domestic hot water - unless he has some way of getting the water a lot hotter !!!
    He is using the D/X system, it gives you hot water to 80 degrees C, it is the brine system that will not give you domestic hot water straight off.
    I will check that it was 300L for sure, I would have swore it was but it could have been 500L!
    Yop - thought you were not into Air Source earlier on - did something change your mind???

    Have not changed my mind yet, stil thinking it will be the Ground Source, but am continuously reading info and college papers on the internet to make up my mind.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 slayer92


    Yop,
    You check out the aerothermal option from Sweco. I am getting one installed in my house (2700) with U/F downstairs and rad upstairs. It is a 11kw heatpump run by a 2 kw electrical motor. The buffer tank is 500 litres and supplies the water for the heating system. The water for the domestic system (showers and taps) passes through the tank and is heated by the water for the heating system. This means the hot domestic water can be pressurised.
    No costly excavations!!

    Regards

    slayer


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