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Turbo trainer/rollers

13»

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    I only have my rollers a few days now so excuse me if this is a dumb question or maybe it's all in my head.
    But it feels like it's easier to cycle in the highest gear, when I lower the gears I'm finding it hard to keep going.
    Is it a case that you need to work hard at the beginning to get some rhythm and then it gets easier?
    Altogether I've only been on them 45 mins or so so far, I feel like I get way more wrecked than on the road.

    The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked mate!

    As a relative newbie myself to rollers, I find that I need to have a fast cadence to keep upright and stable. You can't cycle slowly on rollers or you'll lose balance. Think of it as like a coin that's made to spin on a table surface, when it spins fast, it stays upright but as it loses speed, it starts to wobble and eventually falls over. Same with cycling on rollers. There are three options available to you here:
    1. A very fast cadence drill in a low gear. Tiring and tricky as you must keep the wheels spinning fast
    2. Put the bike in a high gear for more "resistance" and not so fast cadence, but as the wheels will be spinning fast from the high gear, you'll be stable
    3. Cycle in a medium to high gear at a cadence sufficient to keep you stable.

    I mix the three up for the hour I spend on the rollers each day. I find the low gear high cadence to be very tiring and the one that gets my heart rate up the highest according to my heart rate monitor. The high gear is the next most tiring while the cycling at a steady rate in a medium gear is what I call my "rest" period even though my cycling computer says I'm doing 45kph (I know, I'll take that with a bit of salt as there's no road, wind or hill resistance).

    And like you, I find it way more tiring than being out on the road. I find I sweat buckets as there's no wind to cool me. I bought a fan to help cool me but also had to get a sweat band for my head to stop salty sweat stinging my eyes (it works well but it does be sodden with sweat at the end of the hour on the rollers). Still, its keeping me fit and I can help the kids with their homework while cycling indoors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    fat bloke wrote: »
    Don't mind them middle-of-nowhere, not a banister in sight, track-y show offs. :D

    If you want to follow the voyage of roller self-discovery of a poorly coordinated, talentless trout then click below.

    I'm going to kick out the roller one notch more and see how that works in terms of allowing me to pedal out of the saddle more easily, which I still can't do with any efficacy. But moving it forward immediately allowed me to pedal no-hands, and I can do higher cadence stuff without the bike threatening to surge forward and breach the rollers altogether.



    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116103472&postcount=8948


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116104982&postcount=8950


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116109505&postcount=8951

    Thanks for that mate. Appreciate it a lot. I was doing a high cadence workout yesterday and I had this fear that the front wheel was going to hop off the roller and I'd go flying forward and through the wall into next door's kitchen like a looney tune cartoon. I know I shouldn't have been looking down at the front wheel but I couldn't help but notice (as I was down in the drops) that the front hub was inching ever so slightly forward due to my legs spinning the cranks so fast. As its already balanced directly over the middle of the front roller, it wouldn't take much to literally "put me over the edge"! What type of rollers do you have btw? I followed the recommended set up for the Tacx Gallaxia rollers I have to the letter but there's no way I'd call myself stable on the bike when on the rollers. While I'm not falling off the edge or even need the doorframe to save me, I need total concentration for even moving my hands from the tops to the hoods to the drops, or even when shifting my weight on the saddle or else I'll get a serious dose of the wobbles. When I see youtube videos of guys cycling no hands or out of the saddle (which I'd love to do as my ass gets incredibly numb from being in the one position for an hour), it makes me doubt I'm doing it right even though I haven't fallen off the rollers since my third attempt on day one three weeks ago. I'm going to extend the rollers today and see if it helps. One question though......does this make it harder to cycle as the front wheel is "pushing into the roller" as opposed to sitting on top of it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 604 ✭✭✭a_squirrelman


    D13exile wrote: »
    The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked mate!

    As a relative newbie myself to rollers, I find that I need to have a fast cadence to keep upright and stable. You can't cycle slowly on rollers or you'll lose balance. Think of it as like a coin that's made to spin on a table surface, when it spins fast, it stays upright but as it loses speed, it starts to wobble and eventually falls over. Same with cycling on rollers. There are three options available to you here:
    1. A very fast cadence drill in a low gear. Tiring and tricky as you must keep the wheels spinning fast
    2. Put the bike in a high gear for more "resistance" and not so fast cadence, but as the wheels will be spinning fast from the high gear, you'll be stable
    3. Cycle in a medium to high gear at a cadence sufficient to keep you stable.

    I mix the three up for the hour I spend on the rollers each day. I find the low gear high cadence to be very tiring and the one that gets my heart rate up the highest according to my heart rate monitor. The high gear is the next most tiring while the cycling at a steady rate in a medium gear is what I call my "rest" period even though my cycling computer says I'm doing 45kph (I know, I'll take that with a bit of salt as there's no road, wind or hill resistance).

    And like you, I find it way more tiring than being out on the road. I find I sweat buckets as there's no wind to cool me. I bought a fan to help cool me but also had to get a sweat band for my head to stop salty sweat stinging my eyes (it works well but it does be sodden with sweat at the end of the hour on the rollers). Still, its keeping me fit and I can help the kids with their homework while cycling indoors.


    Cheers D13.
    I'll give a middle gear a shot today, it doesn't help that my bike is ancient with gears on the downtube so once I choose the gear I'm stuck with it unless I stop (or take a tumble).
    The mrs is sceptical about the whole thing so there'll be no giving up until I get the hang of it. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    Once you've mastered no hands this is the obvious next step...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aav7J_S9ji0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Cheers D13.
    I'll give a middle gear a shot today, it doesn't help that my bike is ancient with gears on the downtube so once I choose the gear I'm stuck with it unless I stop (or take a tumble).
    The mrs is sceptical about the whole thing so there'll be no giving up until I get the hang of it. :D

    Gears on the downtube? Ah that brings back memories of my first "racer" in the mid 80's. It would be considered a classic now!

    You have my admiration mate. I don't think I'd have the confidence to reach down to change gear on your bike. I find it tricky enough on my shifters. Put the bike in cog 6 or 7 (if you have a ten speed like me) or 7 or 8 if its an 11 speed. It'll give you sufficient momentum to stay stable without tiring you too much. And keep it in a doorway as knowing there's nowhere to fall if you do wobble helps your confidence a lot. We noobs must stick together!!!:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Once you've mastered no hands this is the obvious next step...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aav7J_S9ji0

    Oh thanks a bunch mate!. Now I truly feel inadequate: D

    I do notice however, that her front hub is not positioned directly over the centreline of the front roller and there I would consider that "cheating" (my excuse and I'm sticking to it!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 604 ✭✭✭a_squirrelman


    D13exile wrote: »
    Gears on the downtube? Ah that brings back memories of my first "racer" in the mid 80's. It would be considered a classic now!

    You have my admiration mate. I don't think I'd have the confidence to reach down to change gear on your bike. I find it tricky enough on my shifters. Put the bike in cog 6 or 7 (if you have a ten speed like me) or 7 or 8 if its an 11 speed. It'll give you sufficient momentum to stay stable without tiring you too much. And keep it in a doorway as knowing there's nowhere to fall if you do wobble helps your confidence a lot. We noobs must stick together!!!:D


    Yeah I'm saving for a basic road bike, this one is best used for trips to the shops :pac:
    Thanks for the tips!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Moved the front roller position so that the bike's front hub is now an inch (or 2.54cm to you young 'uns :) ) behind the centreline of the front roller. Did an hour on the rollers then at an average of 45kph according to the bike computer (I'm going to be sooooooooo disappointed when I eventually go back on the road and my speed is back in the mid '30s :) ). Was it any steadier? Tbh, I don't know. I've been managing to stay on the rollers just fine (if a little twitchy when moving hand position) the way they were. With the front roller pushed out a little bit, I didn't see any massive improvement, like I won't be cycling no hands anytime soon on them. Maybe I'll push the front roller out another inch and see what happens then, although the front hub will definitely be over the "back slope" of the front roller at that point.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,855 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    You can definitely go slowly on rollers. The reason I think you're feeling unsteady in a lower gear is cos it's a harder to balance in a lighter gear but it's just practice. You'll get there. It's good for you!

    On the axle placement, I feel like my bike is bumping up to the rollers when it's a bit behind them, it feels like you're rocking the bike on them if that makes sense?
    Plus that bit of instability from a hub over hub makes you use your core and develop better skills.

    Every roller session I do has a plan - always intervals, clear, timed. I do it to cadence and use gears for difficulty. I'd wholeheartedly recommend a structured session rather than jumping on and seeing how you go. Also mess with your balance during your warm down, take a bottle from your bottle cage, try one legged, out it into a big gear and try no handed etc. You're more relaxed and used to it during the warm down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    Can anyone recommend a good tablet/laptop holder for a bike?
    thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    lennymc wrote: »
    Can anyone recommend a good tablet/laptop holder for a bike?
    thanks

    Mantel cycles have this one (out of stock now but due back in a few weeks). I've bought from this Dutch company before and they're excellent to deal with

    https://www.mantel.com/ie/tacx-handlebar-holder-for-tablets


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,935 ✭✭✭fat bloke




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    fat bloke wrote: »

    yeah, looks good, but 50% of the funding, so far, and it probably wouldn't be here next week.... :)

    I'll probably go with the tacx one, it looks fine for what i need it for (couple of weeks turbo indoors, cos it's cold in the shed!! LOL Whatever happened to HTFU


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭joey100


    Sheet music stands work well, won't be attached to the bike though, but can be bit cheaper than a dedicated tablet stand for the bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,935 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    lennymc wrote: »
    yeah, looks good, but 50% of the funding, so far, and it probably wouldn't be here next week.... :)

    I'll probably go with the tacx one, it looks fine for what i need it for (couple of weeks turbo indoors, cos it's cold in the shed!! LOL Whatever happened to HTFU

    Tacx supplies seem low everywhere but it's definitely a good price if you get your hands on one.
    joey100 wrote: »
    Sheet music stands work well, won't be attached to the bike though, but can be bit cheaper than a dedicated tablet stand for the bike.

    I tried the sheet music stand option and... based on my own experience I wouldn't recommend one. They're awfully flimsy and I've knocked it over more times than I can count, pulled it off via the headphones cable or charger cable. Also you can't really have it in front of you because the front wheel is in the way so it has to be to one side and not in your natural field of view.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    stock of the tacx looks to be an issue alright. I might have to try an el cheapo tablet holder somewhere and a tri bar extension.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,154 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    lennymc wrote: »
    stock of the tacx looks to be an issue alright. I might have to try an el cheapo tablet holder somewhere and a tri bar extension.

    Tacx Flux 2 in stock for €799 here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    dinneenp wrote: »
    Tacx Flux 2 in stock for €799 here

    cheers for that - i'm ok for a turbo, looking for the tablet mount.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 825 ✭✭✭devonp


    Hi


    so got myself a set of Elite Arion Rollers...apart from the steep learning curve (and i'm still learning ) i got a speed sensor (Garmin 2 dual) how can i send this data to my Mac in real time to monitor my speed/time/distance ?
    i have an old Garmin edge 810, its works in that it picks up the speed sensor and HRM buti dont want to be looking down at the stem :eek: and want to set up the Mac with its bigger screen. Also i will have 1 months free sub to Elite trainer app


    cheers


    tmrw looks wet i'll give it another go


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 825 ✭✭✭devonp


    got going on the Arion rollers today...first time
    in a door frame, with runners


    26km 34kph avg 46mins


    some differences btw garmin connect and strava numbers ?



    its sweaty work indoor cycling :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,169 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    devonp wrote: »
    so got myself a set of Elite Arion Rollers...apart from the steep learning curve (and i'm still learning ) i got a speed sensor (Garmin 2 dual) how can i send this data to my Mac in real time to monitor my speed/time/distance ?
    i have an old Garmin edge 810, its works in that it picks up the speed sensor and HRM buti dont want to be looking down at the stem :eek: and want to set up the Mac with its bigger screen. Also i will have 1 months free sub to Elite trainer app

    ANT+ and BTLE so you should be able to see them on the mac (unless its ancient). Not sure what client you'd use. If theyre paired to an 820 they may not show for the computer while its on, unsure there.

    devonp wrote: »
    got going on the Arion rollers today...first time
    in a door frame, with runners

    26km 34kph avg 46mins

    some differences btw garmin connect and strava numbers ?

    its sweaty work indoor cycling :P

    Using rollers like that the "speed" and "distance" are really fictional, just like ERG mode on a turbo. If you have a PM use that but it sounds like you don't so Id just focus on HR zones. Thats the real meaningful figure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,814 ✭✭✭Nemanja91


    Has anyone had trouble with their shifting on a Wahoo Kickr Core?

    I am using a 105 cassette on the kickr core and the gears are struggling. I've adjusted the tension but each time I shift down the chain struggles and then jolts down with a bang and when I shift up the chain jumps up and down a bit. I've an ultegra cassette on my bike and when I put the wheel back on the bike to check the gears everything runs pretty smoothly.

    Might try and put the ultegra cassette on it tomorrow.


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