the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

fixXxer · 27-10-2020 11:50am

Plastik wrote: »

Wear them with pride.

I completely get this, but it was more so rust doesn't set in :pac: Maybe rust isn't a thing any more, I'm only on a bike since lockdown 1.0

cletus · 27-10-2020 11:59am

fixXxer wrote: »

I completely get this, but it was more so rust doesn't set in :pac: Maybe rust isn't a thing any more, I'm only on a bike since lockdown 1.0

What frame material does your bike have

fixXxer · 27-10-2020 12:03pm

cletus wrote: »

What frame material does your bike have

6061 aluminium alloy according to the instruction manual.

seamus · 27-10-2020 12:04pm

Rust is a thing on certain components but so long as you keep it relatively clean and store it somewhere dry, it's unlikely to become a problem.

The frame won't rust. Aluminium oxidises in its own special way, but there's no need to seal up scuffs and scrapes.

If the paint is ever cracked or warped, the frame is goosed. That's all you really need to look out for with Alu.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 27-10-2020 12:13pm

grogi wrote: »

Just to answer myself here...

With the introduction of GRX Shimano increased the chainline with the GRX from 43.5 to 46.9mm to accomodate wider tyres. Typical road FD has only capacity to deal with chainline upto ~45mm (there isn't much more reach on mine from what it is doing now) and with the GRX might not reach far enough and GRX FD will be required. The chainline will be even bigger issue when trying to use MTB chainset.

It seems the easiest and definately most cost effective option is to go with the FSA Omega Adventure.

What BB are you currently using?

tomasrojo · 27-10-2020 3:36pm

seamus wrote: »

Rust is a thing on certain components but so long as you keep it relatively clean and store it somewhere dry, it's unlikely to become a problem.

The frame won't rust. Aluminium oxidises in its own special way, but there's no need to seal up scuffs and scrapes.

If the paint is ever cracked or warped, the frame is goosed. That's all you really need to look out for with Alu.

My bikes are all steel, but, yes, I've always understood that aluminium oxide doesn't flake like typical iron oxides and it forms a protective layer, so rust isn't an issue.

grogi · 27-10-2020 6:23pm

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

What BB are you currently using?

I have threaded frame - was using a SM-BBR60.

To the available options I'd add:
- Miche Graff 46/30 chainset - they use the same 24mm spindle design and share ~44mm chainline
- FSA Tempo Adventure + square taper cartridge
- Shimano TY501-2 + square taper cartridge - a super cheap and heavy solution

woody33 · 28-10-2020 10:07pm

How can I tell if my hubs are cup and cone or sealed bearing? Its a ten year old Felt hardtail 21 speed with a freewheel hub. And should I put a few drops of chain oil into the wee gap between wheel and hub, or might it dilute the grease? The hubs seem fine at the moment, I'm thinking preventive maintenance. Thanks for any ideas.

jamesbondings · 29-10-2020 7:10pm

im not sure if here is the best place for this, feel free to move it if so.

I have been asked about xmas ideas for me and thought i might get some upgrades for the bike. I would like to increase the amount of gears i have. I imagine this is possible?
If so, could someone advise what I might need to get in order to do the job myself? The bike i have is this - https://www.decathlon.ie/ie_en/rc-100-road-bike-grey-en-s308047.html
It only has 7 gears and the "hardest" gear is easy enough to maintain. I would like a bit more flexibility. Realistically, i know anything is an upgrade on the above!

I am a complete novice to maitaining a bike! I mean i can change tyres and fix punctures etc. But i wouldnt even know where to begin with changing and adding gears. What parts might you reccomend? and what tools would be required? Have a fair few tools, but there might be some specific ones ill need to add to the list. I would also like to change th eshifter if thats possible - the thing is a nightmare and i always seem to be sitting on it

Thanks in advance! If its in the wrong place I am sorry.

cletus · 29-10-2020 7:24pm

First thing you need to check is whether the rear wheel has a freehub or a free wheel. I could be wrong, but with 7 gears, I suspect freewheel, which might make it more difficult.

Actually, I just noticed it has a single ring at the front. To put on a double chain ring you'd need obviously the chain rings, a front derailleur, shifter, cables and cable housing.

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/51811/single-to-double-chainset-conversion

Here's a link with some of the other stuff you may or may not need, depending on the bike itself.

Note that the parts to do this could run you the same as the cost of your bike new

Type 17 · 29-10-2020 7:24pm

woody33 wrote: »

How can I tell if my hubs are cup and cone or sealed bearing? Its a ten year old Felt hardtail 21 speed with a freewheel hub. And should I put a few drops of chain oil into the wee gap between wheel and hub, or might it dilute the grease? The hubs seem fine at the moment, I'm thinking preventive maintenance. Thanks for any ideas.

If it's a 10-year old bike with 21 gears, and given that you mention a gap, it's most likely to be cup-and-cone hubs, but post a close-up pic and it can be confirmed.

Oil might help, but a better bet would be to add some grease - Park Tool did a series of hub service vids on YouTube in the last month or so - take a look and see if you want to do it, or let your LBS do it.
10 years is a good time to do something though, as grease does dry up, and the hubs will be damaged by dried grease (no lubrication).

North of 32 · 30-10-2020 12:33pm

My issue is a bit tricky to describe as I am far from being a practical person.

Ultegra R8000 rim brake quick release. They were seizing front and rear on my bike. I decided to disassemble the quick release on both brakes to inspect and clean.

Upon disassembly I could see that a small, thin plastic ring which sits inside the QR and keeps tension had completely disintegrated and broken due to dirt. I simply removed the plastic ring from both brakes, cleaned and reassembled. The QR is a bit loose now but still works as far as I can tell.

Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution? I guess I could just try to find 2 similarly sized plastic rings, but I also lost one of the little springs. It seems like a kind of shoddy/corner-cutting design.

CormacH94 · 30-10-2020 12:35pm

Anyone here running Condor Poggia Deep Drop Brake Calipers? I think they are rebadged Tektro's from what I have read.

Replaced the stock Condor brand shoes/pads with Swiss Stop BXP's and still find the braking a bit spongy compared to the Tiagra calipers on the summer bike. Is a loss of power/instant grab from the brakes just part and parcel with deep drops or are the Condor/Tektro deep drops a bit bad in this regard?

Type 17 · 30-10-2020 1:46pm

North of 32 wrote: »

My issue is a bit tricky to describe as I am far from being a practical person.

Ultegra R8000 rim brake quick release. They were seizing front and rear on my bike. I decided to disassemble the quick release on both brakes to inspect and clean.

Upon disassembly I could see that a small, thin plastic ring which sits inside the QR and keeps tension had completely disintegrated and broken due to dirt. I simply removed the plastic ring from both brakes, cleaned and reassembled. The QR is a bit loose now but still works as far as I can tell.

Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution? I guess I could just try to find 2 similarly sized plastic rings, but I also lost one of the little springs. It seems like a kind of shoddy/corner-cutting design.

Take a look here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/BR-R8000/EV-BR-R8000-4251.pdf

Looks like you should buy part 5: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-ultegra-brr8000-quick-release-assembly-y8ru98010/

North of 32 · 30-10-2020 2:58pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Take a look here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/BR-R8000/EV-BR-R8000-4251.pdf

Looks like you should buy part 5: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-ultegra-brr8000-quick-release-assembly-y8ru98010/

Brilliant, that's exactly it. Thank you!

magicbastarder · 30-10-2020 3:01pm

how old are the brakes? just wondering if you could claim it as a warranty call?

North of 32 · 30-10-2020 3:32pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

how old are the brakes? just wondering if you could claim it as a warranty call?

Yeah that just crossed my mind as well. I got the bike in April 2019 so I might get in contact with Shimano. As far as I can see the warranty is for 2 years.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/information/warranty.html

Leprechaun77 · 30-10-2020 5:34pm

My older son has passed his bike on to the smaller fella (7) and I need to put a new set of tyres on. The current tyres are 24 x 1 however these are probably a bit too narrow for the younger lad as he is fairly new to the cycling. I was thinking of a 1.75 tyre however the wheel rim is only 15-16mm which makes me think it may be a bit too wide? Any thoughts or suggestion in this regard? (Plenty of fork clearance)

cletus · 30-10-2020 5:44pm

Leprechaun77 wrote: »

My older son has passed his bike on to the smaller fella (7) and I need to put a new set of tyres on. The current tyres are 24 x 1 however these are probably a bit too narrow for the younger lad as he is fairly new to the cycling. I was thinking of a 1.75 tyre however the wheel rim is only 15-16mm which makes me think it may be a bit too wide? Any thoughts or suggestion in this regard? (Plenty of fork clearance)

I'd be less concerned about the rim than the space in the fork and stays

Type 17 · 30-10-2020 5:52pm

24x1 is not a common size on kids MTB-based bikes - what kind of bike is it? If it's a junior racer, then the 24x1 tyres (25-540) are not the same size as 24x1.75 (44-507).

Leprechaun77 · 30-10-2020 6:14pm

Type 17 wrote: »

24x1 is not a common size on kids MTB-based bikes - what kind of bike is it? If it's a junior racer, then the 24x1 tyres (25-540) are not the same size as 24x1.75 (44-507).

Bare with me......

The bike on first glance has the physical appearance of a MTB with flat handlebars etc, however on closer inspection (and a quick google) it appears most similar versions are of a road bike variety. The main differences I see between our one and the road bike version appear to be the handle bars, brake clearance and fork clearance. The narrow wheels do look quite unusual on this type of bike I have to say.

I suppose what I need to establish is what type/size of wider tyre is safe to fit?

Type 17 · 30-10-2020 7:01pm

Take a look at the current tyre sidewall and, beside the 24 x 1 marking, there will be other numbers in the format xx-xxx - this is the ETRTO measurement (more details here, if you're want the whole story).

This is the bike/tyre/rim manufacturers' measurement and is the definitive size, because all of the other sizes are a historical mish-mash of metric, imperial, French, British, American, japanese and other measurements.

Post the ETRTO size and we can work out if wider tyres are available and/or suitable.

Leprechaun77 · 30-10-2020 7:19pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Take a look at the current tyre sidewall and, beside the 24 x 1 marking, there will be other numbers in the format xx-xxx - this is the ETRTO measurement (more details here, if you're want the whole story).

This is the bike/tyre/rim manufacturers' measurement and is the definitive size, because all of the other sizes are a historical mish-mash of metric, imperial, French, British, American, japanese and other measurements.

Post the ETRTO size and we can work out if wider tyres are available and/or suitable.

Thanks for that. The numbers are 23-540.

Type 17 · 30-10-2020 7:53pm

Leprechaun77 wrote: »

Thanks for that. The numbers are 23-540.

Ok, the 540 is the rim diameter in mm, so any tyre you want must have 540 (or 541, which I did see on a search) in the ETRTO size.

The other number is the tyre width in mm. The 23 on the current tyres is almost the narrowest size available, so if you can find tyres with say 25, 28 or even 30 (if the frame/fork/brakes will take it) in the size, then you'll be onto a winner, but if the three-digit number isn't 540, then they're not going to fit.

PS: There isn't a huge gain to be had in grip by fitting a tyre that's a few mm wider, but a wider tyre will be a bit more comfortable, and is less likely to suffer from pinch-flat punctures.

07Lapierre · 30-10-2020 8:05pm

Anyone built up a frame / integrated stem and handlebar recently and fitted internal mechanical shifter cables? I’m told it can be done, but you have to use a full length outer cable housing from the shifter all the way down to the front and rear derailleurs? I’m concerned it won’t work due to the sharp turns /in direct cable routing combined with the increase in friction? Any tips/recommendations? ( besides upgrading to di2 that is!

)

woody33 · 01-11-2020 2:44pm

Hi, does this look like a cup and cone or a sealed bearing? (A bit grubby, I know.) Thanks...

Type 17 · 01-11-2020 2:56pm

Cup-and-cone. The brown tint of the grease on the silver dust cover is a sign that the grease inside is (also) dried/drying up. Time for a service...

woody33 · 01-11-2020 3:38pm

I have just checked, it seems to be dried grease all right and not corrosion as i thought. Would a dribble of oil in the gap do any good? At the back I have already failed to remove the freewheel myself (blush), having bought and adapted various tools, so I could probably only service the non-drive side. Hmm I have a large tub of Castrol LM grease which should do.

Type 17 · 01-11-2020 3:49pm

Some dribble-oil (not the thin, aerosol types) would help - grease is basically oil in thickening agents to slow its drying up and/or running out of the required place, so some oil is better than none (obviously, grease is more complex than that, and there are multiple types, to take account of varying loads, temperatures, moisture levels, etc).

Freewheels are virtually impossible to remove without the right tools - the action of pedalling tightens it onto the hub, so they're almost 100Nm tight.

You should service the bearings on the drive side, as they're the ones that take all the load when you pedal, and dried grease will kill them quickly enough (pitted cup and cone). Castrol LM (lithium-based) would be fine, once you get the freewheel off.

woody33 · 01-11-2020 4:10pm

Previously I had to go to my LBS to get a spoke replaced on the drive side, I might try some chain oil dripped into that side, and re grease the others. The wheels seem to spin ok without wobbling at the moment, but good to know what type bearings they are, Thanks again.

tomasrojo · 01-11-2020 7:03pm

If it's a screw-on freewheel you only need one specialised tool: a nut that slots into the splines that surrond the axle. Then you need a ring spanner that fits that nut, and an awful lot of force to unscrew the freewheel. I used to use my legs to get enough force. It usually came free very suddenly but I managed to never injure myself.

woody33 · 01-11-2020 9:49pm

Finding the correct tool was the issue, I bought one, wrong, bought another, wrong again, filed it down, still no go. Drat. Possibly should get a new cassette with the right tool, or a wheel with a free hub, but set up for v-brake. Anyway, I'm still on the road, within the 5 kilometres, obvs. Thanks again.

07Lapierre · 01-11-2020 9:51pm

tomasrojo wrote: »

If it's a screw-on freewheel you only need one specialised tool: a nut that slots into the splines that surrond the axle. Then you need a ring spanner that fits that nut, and an awful lot of force to unscrew the freewheel. I used to use my legs to get enough force. It usually came free very suddenly but I managed to never injure myself.

You also need a chain whip.

cython · 01-11-2020 10:03pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

You also need a chain whip.

Not to remove a screw on freewheel (as opposed to taking a cassette off a freehub).

tomasrojo · 01-11-2020 10:07pm

Yeah, based on what's been said, it's an old-fashioned freewheel which screws onto the hub body like a bottle top screws onto a bottle, rather than a freehub.

07Lapierre · 01-11-2020 10:09pm

Ok, my mistake.

crosstownk · 01-11-2020 10:10pm

cython wrote: »

Not to remove a screw on freewheel (as opposed to taking a cassette off a freehub).

Unrelated but ...... I vaguely remember needing two chain whips to remove the freewheel on a 7 speed Shimano 600 Select hub back in the 1980s. Maybe the smallest cog was threaded? Am I right or just old and confused?

8valve · 02-11-2020 12:00pm

crosstownk wrote: »

Unrelated but ...... I vaguely remember needing two chain whips to remove the freewheel on a 7 speed Shimano 600 Select hub back in the 1980s. Maybe the smallest cog was threaded? Am I right or just old and confused?

I think that was the system on the old shimano uniglide freehubs, precursor to the current hyperglide cassettes, which is the design still in use.

the giveaway was the couple of mm of thread on the outside of the freehub body for screwing on the smallest sprockets.

I think suntour had something similar?

cython · 02-11-2020 12:15pm

crosstownk wrote: »

Unrelated but ...... I vaguely remember needing two chain whips to remove the freewheel on a 7 speed Shimano 600 Select hub back in the 1980s. Maybe the smallest cog was threaded? Am I right or just old and confused?

Before my time, to be honest! I'm just basing my comment off how it works removing freewheels with a remover tool like https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-1-3

However, as another poster has said, you may be referring to the uniglide cassettes, where the smallest sprocket double jobbed for the lockring in the current hyberglide system:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zWYLb2RMPA

Type 17 · 02-11-2020 12:19pm

Yes, Uniglide (and previous offerings from Shimano and others) gave the opportunity to configure your rear cluster to whatever sizes you wanted because each sprocket (sold separately at your LBS) worked in almost any position in the setup. I remember buying one new sprocket after changing a chain, because the old chain had caused a bit too much wear on one (fourth of the six). I still have six-speed Dura-Ace Uniglide on a 70's road bike I have - I found that the previous owner had got around the skipping issue with a new chain by turning the first five sprockets around to use the other side of the teeth (an old trick, no longer possible with Hyperglide).

While Hyperglide removed those flexibilities, it allows for quicker, smoother shifting, and with continuous pedal pressure* because each sprocket's profiles and side-stampings/cutouts are related to its position in the cluster, and to the other sprockets beside it.

*On older stuff, if you didn't ease up the pressure when shifting, the chain could slip and/or skate over the tops of the teeth, causing a fall or chain/sprocket damage. Especially tricky when on a steep climb.

tomasrojo · 02-11-2020 12:37pm

8valve wrote: »

I think that was the system on the old shimano uniglide freehubs, precursor to the current hyperglide cassettes, which is the design still in use.

the giveaway was the couple of mm of thread on the outside of the freehub body for screwing on the smallest sprockets.

Sounds very plausible:

The smallest sprocket on a Uniglide cassette was not splined, it was threaded. The threads of this sprocket would hold everything else together. Dura-Ace Freehubs used a different, smaller thread, which worked only with Dura-Ace threaded sprockets.

https://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide

Weepsie · 02-11-2020 4:00pm

So I've a spare carbon disc form with a tapered steerer. I have a genesis croix de fer on which the fork is a bit dead/dull= but it's a straight headtube.

I believe there is an adapter I can try (and this will change the stack a bit) and allow me to run the forks, but I'm wondering what else I'm missing.

This adapter https://www.adverts.ie/other-sports-fitness/carbon-forks/21982181

I had a compatible fork that I now regret selling!

crosstownk · 02-11-2020 9:27pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Yes, Uniglide (and previous offerings from Shimano and others) gave the opportunity to configure your rear cluster to whatever sizes you wanted because each sprocket (sold separately at your LBS) worked in almost any position in the setup.

Yep. Uniglide it was. I vaguely remember being able to change individual sprockets alright.

padyjoe · 03-11-2020 12:43pm

I have a KMC X9-silver, Pedros II showing around 0.5% wear nearing 3k kms. Is it ok to run it down to 0.75%? This is on a new outer chainring and cassette. The jockey wheels have 27k kms on them, time to change I wonder?

LollipopJimmy · 03-11-2020 1:09pm

padyjoe wrote: »

I have a KMC X9-silver, Pedros II showing around 0.5% wear nearing 3k kms. Is it ok to run it down to 0.75%? This is on a new outer chainring and cassette. The jockey wheels have 27k kms on them, time to change I wonder?

I wouldnt run an old chain on a new cassette, you're just going to wear the cassette much quicker.

Jockey wheels are cheap, id be inclined to change them also at that mileage

padyjoe · 03-11-2020 1:23pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I wouldnt run an old chain on a new cassette

It's an all new set, well it was 3k ago, when I changed every component: chain, cassette, chainring. Considering the below explained, better off not 'stretching' to .75%?
I don't go OCD on cleaning the chain but I wipe and lube it on a regular basis.
The chain is stressed above average I reckon: ca. 105 kg total, 36 spoke wheel and average 27-30 km/h.
Thank you!

Type 17 · 03-11-2020 1:33pm

Think of it this way: if you run the chain down to .75%, you're also running the cassette & rings down to .75%, so they will drag a new chain down to their wear-level that bit quicker.

If you keep changing the chains at .5 or .6%, the cass/rings will only ever be at the that level and the extra few km you "lost" off the end of each chain (by not going past .5% or so) will add up to less than one chain, which is far cheaper than a cassette and big ring.

padyjoe · 03-11-2020 2:02pm

Well, this needs no further explanation. And no excuse either as I have a spare chain in my drawer. KMC threw in a 17k number for a roadbike in their leaflet, I know it's extreme distance with a minimal abuse. I think, I should be proud of myself being able to kill the chain in 3k. Or I'm still a fat fúkker! :-DDD

LollipopJimmy · 03-11-2020 2:05pm

Sorry I had read your post as you had just fit the cassette and chainring now. Answered above anyway by Type17

padyjoe · 03-11-2020 2:09pm

No, it's my mistake, I've never mentioned the chain condition, it wasn't clear.

Thanks for your input!

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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