8valve wrote: » JTEK do a range of SHIFTMATE shift cable pull converters, that will allow you to run any combination of Campag/Shimano shifter/derailleur/cassette. Their website has a table that allows you to work out which one you need, based on the components you are using.
Deano12345 wrote: » Thank you kindly! Sounds like that’ll do the trick, I’ll post pictures of the process of cleaning it all up once it arrives too!
Deano12345 wrote: » So I may be going down the dark path of having a Campag bike in the stable. Won an eBay auction for an almost old enough to be cool Willier Laverado Crono. Seems to be running 10 speed Campag. I know compatibility ain’t great between them and other brands. It’s a weird setup in that the “base” bar is just a set of bullhorns with the brifters on the end! If I wanted to convert it properly to TT bike spec, would any set of bar end levers, like the Dura Ace ones that pull the cable (not r2c) work? Google tells me it should! If it’s going to be a faff, I’ll just put drop bars on it and have a fast aero bike I guess!
grogi wrote: » Long story short: it turns out I have frikishly short legs and despite 195cm of height I need shorter cranks. I'll be going from 175 to 170mm, so I have to change the chainset. While doing so I'd like to go from the Cx 46/36 I am riding now to 46/30 - while climbing my hills around I am hitting cadences of 60 and still get over 95% of MaxHR. Smaller small cog should help with that. So, I can see three options: * FSA Omega Adventure 46/30 - rather rare and I'd like to avoid as they use the exotic 19mm spindle with bottom brackets costing far too much long term * Shimano GRX FC-RX600-10 * Shimano MT210 (Alivio level) - it is much cheaper and have the added benefit of much wider Q-Factor (suprisingly tall people have wide pelves too and often cycle with pedal spacers). Weight penalty over GRX isn't that big - around 100g. Is swapping the Ultegra road chainset for a MTB one even doable? Am I right to assume I'd need to get MTB BB and use spacers on my 68mm frame? Is the chain line difference of 5.5mm (43.5 vs 48.8) going to be an issue (might be for the front derailleur I guess)? Getting GRX would be much simpler, but cause it is trendy, it is costly for what you're getting. I am open to ideas here. Maybe there are better MTB chainsets I could consider?
CramCycle wrote: » If they have a friction shift option, rather than indexed (and the overall range), you should be fine. I used a pair for years on my audax bike and covered 9 and 10 speed without issue
fixXxer wrote: » Whats the best way to deal with bangs and scrapes on the body of a bike? Tape them over? Or is there a sealing spray or something you can get?
Plastik wrote: » Wear them with pride.
fixXxer wrote: » I completely get this, but it was more so rust doesn't set in :pac: Maybe rust isn't a thing any more, I'm only on a bike since lockdown 1.0
cletus wrote: » What frame material does your bike have
grogi wrote: » Just to answer myself here... With the introduction of GRX Shimano increased the chainline with the GRX from 43.5 to 46.9mm to accomodate wider tyres. Typical road FD has only capacity to deal with chainline upto ~45mm (there isn't much more reach on mine from what it is doing now) and with the GRX might not reach far enough and GRX FD will be required. The chainline will be even bigger issue when trying to use MTB chainset. It seems the easiest and definately most cost effective option is to go with the FSA Omega Adventure.
seamus wrote: » Rust is a thing on certain components but so long as you keep it relatively clean and store it somewhere dry, it's unlikely to become a problem. The frame won't rust. Aluminium oxidises in its own special way, but there's no need to seal up scuffs and scrapes. If the paint is ever cracked or warped, the frame is goosed. That's all you really need to look out for with Alu.
Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: » What BB are you currently using?
woody33 wrote: » How can I tell if my hubs are cup and cone or sealed bearing? Its a ten year old Felt hardtail 21 speed with a freewheel hub. And should I put a few drops of chain oil into the wee gap between wheel and hub, or might it dilute the grease? The hubs seem fine at the moment, I'm thinking preventive maintenance. Thanks for any ideas.
North of 32 wrote: » My issue is a bit tricky to describe as I am far from being a practical person. Ultegra R8000 rim brake quick release. They were seizing front and rear on my bike. I decided to disassemble the quick release on both brakes to inspect and clean. Upon disassembly I could see that a small, thin plastic ring which sits inside the QR and keeps tension had completely disintegrated and broken due to dirt. I simply removed the plastic ring from both brakes, cleaned and reassembled. The QR is a bit loose now but still works as far as I can tell. Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution? I guess I could just try to find 2 similarly sized plastic rings, but I also lost one of the little springs. It seems like a kind of shoddy/corner-cutting design.
Type 17 wrote: » Take a look here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/BR-R8000/EV-BR-R8000-4251.pdf Looks like you should buy part 5: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-ultegra-brr8000-quick-release-assembly-y8ru98010/
magicbastarder wrote: » how old are the brakes? just wondering if you could claim it as a warranty call?
Leprechaun77 wrote: » My older son has passed his bike on to the smaller fella (7) and I need to put a new set of tyres on. The current tyres are 24 x 1 however these are probably a bit too narrow for the younger lad as he is fairly new to the cycling. I was thinking of a 1.75 tyre however the wheel rim is only 15-16mm which makes me think it may be a bit too wide? Any thoughts or suggestion in this regard? (Plenty of fork clearance)
Type 17 wrote: » 24x1 is not a common size on kids MTB-based bikes - what kind of bike is it? If it's a junior racer, then the 24x1 tyres (25-540) are not the same size as 24x1.75 (44-507).
