Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Curved Stairs

Options
13»

Comments

  • Options
    #62
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    I always mitre the edge of the steps to eliminate the end grain exposure, the spindles can be either dovetailed into the steps before the return edge mitre is fitted, or simply dowelled.
    whats the best way to cut the mitre into the tread?i cant see how to do it with a chopsaw... handsaw and mitre box?? do you use a bandsaw and fence to cut across the end grain of the tread?? thanks!!:)


  • Options
    #63
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    whats the best way to cut the mitre into the tread?i cant see how to do it with a chopsaw... handsaw and mitre box?? do you use a bandsaw and fence to cut across the end grain of the tread?? thanks!!:)

    I rough cut with a bandsaw and finish off with a template on an overhead router.


  • Options
    #64
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    I rough cut with a bandsaw and finish off with a template on an overhead router.
    oh right, be hard to get it right with bandsaw everytime...:cool:


  • Options
    #65
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    oh right, be hard to get it right with bandsaw everytime...:cool:

    I've done it that way in the past, bloody hard. Best thing about the overhead router is it can be used to smooth the edge of the thread and it's front edge mitre and when curved, machine the edge piece to fit as well.


  • Options
    #66
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    johnpawl wrote: »
    oh right, be hard to get it right with bandsaw everytime...:cool:
    dont forget work in progress and bracket pics :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #67
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    dont forget work in progress and bracket pics :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Doing a handrail with the last 3 ft curved week after next, i'll photo it all the way and add the ones in camera at the weekend.New computer here, so still have to install camera software.


  • Options
    #68
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    Doing a handrail with the last 3 ft curved week after next, i'll photo it all the way and add the ones in camera at the weekend.New computer here, so still have to install camera software.
    sound out, thanks for that


  • Options
    #69
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    SDC10237-1.jpg

    SDC10239.jpg

    SDC10270.jpg

    SDC10276.jpg


  • Options
    #70
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Fabulous job galwayrush. Very impressive!!!!


  • Options
    #71
    tiocimarla
    Closed Accounts Posts: 241 ✭✭tiocimarla


    The mitre under the circular window is off on the right side mate:p. Only messing haha. Good job:D Question 1. what type of joint was used on the handrail and how long was the individual curved pieces before you joined them. Also at what point did you machine the handrail


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #72
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    It was hard to get long lengths in Walnut, managed to get 14', but in lamination, i find the foot at either end tends to straighten slightly, so the aim is to get 12' good. The pieces are joined using handrail bolts, using a biscuit joiner to give a good stable reference point to get the joint good. All handrail is fully machined before lamination.
    I'll be posting a start to finish set of pics on the next curved handrail i'm doing, starting it mid next week.


  • Options
    #73
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    tiocimarla wrote: »
    The mitre under the circular window is off on the right side mate:p. Only messing haha. Good job:D Question 1. what type of joint was used on the handrail and how long was the individual curved pieces before you joined them. Also at what point did you machine the handrail

    LOL:D

    It was a bitch to fit, as the window is not central, one N Post is planed to fit into the wall, the other is 5 " from the wall, so for visual effect we had to offset things to look central from the main viewing vantage point .


  • Options
    #74
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    It was hard to get long lengths in Walnut, managed to get 14', but in lamination, i find the foot at either end tends to straighten slightly, so the aim is to get 12' good. The pieces are joined using handrail bolts, using a biscuit joiner to give a good stable reference point to get the joint good. All handrail is fully machined before lamination.
    I'll be posting a start to finish set of pics on the next curved handrail i'm doing, starting it mid next week.

    sound I'll be keepin an eye on that


  • Options
    #75
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Excellent stuff. Cant wait to see that. If I'm not working next week when your at that I might take a wander up to you if your offer to call up still stand to see how its done ?! I could give you a helping hand for free if you wanted while I'm there ?


  • Options
    #76
    stairs
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21 ✭stairs


    Difference in price for curved stairs and regular can be huge. There is quite a lot more work involved in curved stairs so you have to hire skilled woodworker.

    http://www.davincifloors.com


  • Options
    #77
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    galwaydude18 wrote: »
    Excellent stuff. Cant wait to see that. If I'm not working next week when your at that I might take a wander up to you if your offer to call up still stand to see how its done ?! I could give you a helping hand for free if you wanted while I'm there ?

    Got a few windows to finish, then some skirting board / archritraves to machine, then i'll be doing the curved handrail, i'll send you a pm later in the week when and where i am located.;)


  • Options
    #78
    galwaydude18
    Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Sound job galwayrush!


  • Options
    #79
    yosemite_sam
    Registered Users Posts: 547 ✭✭✭yosemite_sam


    I make them, I have put up a couple of pictures of curved stairs i have done lately. This is a link showing us machining a curved oak handrail out of solid timber http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXNVY_kMa7k. They are not as bad price wise as they used to be.
    p007_0_1.jpg

    p007_1_1.jpg

    p007_0_8.jpg

    p007_1_4.jpg


  • Options
    #80
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    hey galwayrush just wonderin did you ever get round to that handrail...


  • Options
    #81
    galwayrush
    Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    johnpawl wrote: »
    hey galwayrush just wonderin did you ever get round to that handrail...

    Doing it in a few days time, there was a delay with the screeding in the house, so that's (finally) going in on monday.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #82
    johnpawl
    Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭johnpawl


    galwayrush wrote: »
    Doing it in a few days time, there was a delay with the screeding in the house, so that's (finally) going in on monday.


    Great stuff, I'll be waiting for that...thanks for the help


Advertisement