Curved Stairs

newbuildmeath

Im looking to find out what is the price difference between a straight stairs and a curved stairs.
I want to make my stairs a feature but not sure of prices. Im in the Meath area.

ronboy

maybe double the price but you would have to be more specific in what you are looking for..:)

newbuildmeath

I have looked up solid wood curved stairs and they are quite expensive.
Does anybody have concrete curved stairs? Rough price for one? Please pm me any companies that you have dealt with that supply these?

ronboy

I got a price off a guy in Kilkenny last year and it came to 210yoyos per rise with 15 rises = 3150:eek::eek:
Then I would have to clad it in timber.

Whats your buget??

kadman

ronboy wrote: »

I got a price off a guy in Kilkenny last year and it came to 210yoyos per rise with 15 rises = 3150:eek::eek:
Then I would have to clad it in timber.

Whats your buget??

Budget is a good question.

You would need a substantial one to pay for a curved stairs complete. Whats your specific requirement, specs ect.

kadman

tiocimarla

hi there, solid wood stair differs big time between wood type and wood grades, also the design has to be taken into account, i wont take a rocket scientist to shown that the more detail or fancier design then the higher the price. As for a concrete stairs it would be cheaper to build a frame yourself its quite easy then order a bit of concrete and der ye go, are you going to tile or carpet this concrete stair or whats the plan. Anyway i think Budget plays a big role in what you can do

Krsy

Hi there, I have recently just moved into my new home and like yourself i wanted to make my stairs the main feature in my home.

After alot of hard work i found this man in Galway who works nationwide and was by far the cheapest i found around Ireland.He also recommended another company that were able to do my stairs in Marble at a great price. His name is Tom his website address is www.concretestairs.ie.

I hope this is of help to you.:)

galwayrush

It's between 3,500 to 12,000 to clad and fit handrails to a curved stairs, depending on the wood type and specs.

kadman

galwayrush wrote: »

It's between 3,500 to 12,000 to clad and fit handrails to a curved stairs, depending on the wood type and specs.

You could buy a basic curved stairs for 12000 in timber, I would think.

kadman

galwayrush

kadman wrote: »

You could buy a basic curved stairs for 12000 in timber, I would think.

kadman

Yes you can,:cool:but curved on both sides and additional of curved landings can make it a lot more expensive when it comes to cladding a concrete one.

kadman

galwayrush wrote: »

Yes you can,:cool:but curved on both sides and additional of curved landings can make it a lot more expensive when it comes to cladding a concrete one.

I know what you mean. Its like making a wooden curved stairs, to cover a concrete one.
I,ve seen some kits on the web for curved stairs, about 2/3 of the price of a joinery made one, I,ve never seen them up close though.



kadman

galwayrush

kadman wrote: »

I know what you mean. Its like making a wooden curved stairs, to cover a concrete one.
I,ve seen some kits on the web for curved stairs, about 2/3 of the price of a joinery made one, I,ve never seen them up close though.



kadman

Saw the kits as well, almost the norm in the States.
I love making or cladding curved ones, it's the interesting side of joinery for me, getting my own lathe was the last piece in the jig saw to make me self sufficent.

kadman

galwayrush wrote: »

Saw the kits as well, almost the norm in the States.
I love making or cladding curved ones, it's the interesting side of joinery for me, getting my own lathe was the last piece in the jig saw to make me self sufficent.

What make of lathe did you invest in.

kadman

galwayrush

kadman wrote: »

What make of lathe did you invest in.

kadman

Bought it second hand about 2 years ago, in perfect working order, Cantauro T5.

kadman

galwayrush wrote: »

Bought it second hand about 2 years ago, in perfect working order, Cantauro T5.

Nice machine, same make as my own, without the copier.:)

I bought mine about 2-3 years ago, second hand. It came out of a training center, with loads and loads of face plates, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, never used. It has the outboard machine unit attachment for massive bowl turning, probably do a 4 foot bowl, I must check tomorrow. Maybe a pic too.:)

kadman

galwayrush

kadman wrote: »

Nice machine, same make as my own, without the copier.:)

I bought mine about 2-3 years ago, second hand. It came out of a training center, with loads and loads of face plates, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, never used. It has the outboard machine unit attachment for massive bowl turning, probably do a 4 foot bowl, I must check tomorrow. Maybe a pic too.:)

kadman

That is impressive, mine isn't suitable for hand turning, i miss that, used to have a manually drived copy lathe, great for self indulgence, but not good enough for making a living on, so upgraded to the hydraulic one, pretty basic compared to the advanced CNC ones LOL.

kadman

galwayrush wrote: »

That is impressive, mine isn't suitable for hand turning, i miss that, used to have a manually drived copy lathe, great for self indulgence, but not good enough for making a living on, so upgraded to the hydraulic one, pretty basic compared to the advanced CNC ones LOL.

Yeah.....but the cnc in your head is more reliable:D:D

kadman

galwaydude18

Holy smoke galwayrush and kadman that is one serious lathe!!!!!!

kadman

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Holy smoke galwayrush and kadman that is one serious lathe!!!!!!

Galwaydude18.............no matter what anyone tells you.......................SIZE DOES MATTER:D:D:D:D

kadman

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Holy smoke galwayrush and kadman that is one serious lathe!!!!!!

:cool:
Fell free to drop in anytime if you want a look.
No idea where you are in Galway, i'm 10 miles out, N.E direction.;)

galwaydude18

I might take you up on that offer galwayrush. I will be working in galway city for three or four days this week so might drop over to ya one of the evenings if its a reasonable hour I am going home at! :P:P

Jaysus Kadman I believe it now... :D:D:D:D

johnpawl

I've been looking into shuttering a curved stairs myself, its not anywhere near as easy to manage as a straight flight but I think I'll work it out.Its the prices for cladding ye've mentioned that has me worried... I was thinking of putting on timber treads myself, plastering the sides and back, then getting someone in to do the curved handrail and the spindles...surely that wouldnt cost a reckless amount???

kadman

johnpawl wrote: »

I've been looking into shuttering a curved stairs myself, its not anywhere near as easy to manage as a straight flight but I think I'll work it out.Its the prices for cladding ye've mentioned that has me worried... I was thinking of putting on timber treads myself, plastering the sides and back, then getting someone in to do the curved handrail and the spindles...surely that wouldnt cost a reckless amount???

You will need to have an internal and external, cut string shutter. Of course both will be different tread dimensions. If you are going to try the handrails yourself, you will need to construct an inner, and outer drum, for both handrails, when laminating the curve. And last, but not least, you will need to understand the mechanics of setting out a curved stairs. Difficult, but not impossible for a good carpenter, but not for the squeamish:D

kadman

johnpawl

kadman wrote: »

You will need to have an internal and external, cut string shutter. Of course both will be different tread dimensions. If you are going to try the handrails yourself, you will need to construct an inner, and outer drum, for both handrails, when laminating the curve. And last, but not least, you will need to understand the mechanics of setting out a curved stairs. Difficult, but not impossible for a good carpenter, but not for the squeamish:D

kadman

Hi kadman,Ive built an inner and outer circular partition, at a scale of half size, doing a model shutter first so I can make sure I get it right on the real deal!!!I think I'll leave the handrail, don think I'd manage it, I ve done some laminatin in the past but i dont think I'd manage the helix, figure it might not fit stairs properly after!! surely if I put on timber treads and got the outsides plastered it wouldnt break me to pay some guy to do the handrail??? what you reckon???

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

Hi kadman,Ive built an inner and outer circular partition, at a scale of half size, doing a model shutter first so I can make sure I get it right on the real deal!!!I think I'll leave the handrail, don think I'd manage it, I ve done some laminatin in the past but i dont think I'd manage the helix, figure it might not fit stairs properly after!! surely if I put on timber treads and got the outsides plastered it wouldnt break me to pay some guy to do the handrail??? what you reckon???

The handrail is quite easy with the use of fitting temporary metal brackets to the cast concrete steps using curve and rise of the concrete steps as an exact template to form the handrail laminations.
I got some brackets made specially for the job, i can screw them to the steps with simple rawplugs and G cramp the laminations to the upright of the brackets.
This is a concrete stairs i cladded, but it works well for sharper curves, secret there is to simply use lighter laminate.


Dammit, no pic of brackets, i'll take a snap of them tomorrow and post.

galwaydude18

Do you clamp the laminations to the metal brackets? Can you explain this a bit more please? Of if you have any pics of it throw them up?

Are all curved handrails made up on site like that and then bought back to the workshop and machined up to the correct profile?

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

The handrail is quite easy with the use of fitting temporary metal brackets to the cast concrete steps using curve and rise of the concrete steps as an exact template to form the handrail laminations.
I got some brackets made specially for the job, i can screw them to the steps with simple rawplugs and G cramp the laminations to the upright of the brackets.
This is a concrete stairs i cladded, but it works well for sharper curves, secret there is to simply use lighter laminate.

I see what you mean alright, I'd never have thought of that!!how would you machine the correct profile on afterwards?? I might try the handrail on the model see what happens...
Thanks for the help!

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Do you clamp the laminations to the metal brackets? Can you explain this a bit more please? Of if you have any pics of it throw them up?

Are all curved handrails made up on site like that and then bought back to the workshop and machined up to the correct profile?

Yes, the laminations are clamped to a bracket per step.I machine my own handrail laminations, the outside pieces moulded to the finished handrail profile. I then machine an opposite mould to the handrail profile, which i place on the outsides to protect the finished handrail shape, the inner laminations are sized to allow for the plough to take the spindles, then i clamp this on site , leave for 2-3 days, when i bring it back to the workshop, it's only a matter of sanding and spray finishing it.

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

I see what you mean alright, I'd never have thought of that!!how would you machine the correct profile on afterwards?? I might try the handrail on the model see what happens...
Thanks for the help!

Have the laminates pre machined to shape, or get a standard off the shelf handrail cut into lamination strips. Saves days work that way.

galwaydude18

Ah right I'm with you now. So it is all straight legths of timber pre moulded on the outside edge. Are the middle laminations pre moulded also? So do you clamp accross the laminations and then on top of all the laminations to the brackets so as to the the correct curve on both directions if that makes sense?

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

Have the laminates pre machined to shape, or get a standard off the shelf handrail cut into lamination strips. Saves days work that way.

If I cut up an off the shelf handrail myself, wouldnt the saw kerf cause problems when gluing it back together??? I'm guessing putting it through the tablesaw would be a bad idea as the 3mm thickness of the blade would cause probs when gluing??thanks for the info!!keep it coming !!:)

galwaydude18

Jesus that is some job! You would never guess that it was a concrete stairs! Well done on your work!!!

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Ah right I'm with you now. So it is all straight legths of timber pre moulded on the outside edge. Are the middle laminations pre moulded also? So do you clamp accross the laminations and then on top of all the laminations to the brackets so as to the the correct curve on both directions if that makes sense?

Perfect sense.:cool:
I have a shelf for want if a better word welded to the brackets to give an exact reference to place the handrail pieces on, i can clamp across the laminates at each bracket, and downwards to the bracket as well. The counter protective mould protects from the cramps causing any damage, keep the profile square to each bracket and also allows me to add additional cramps in between where ever needed.
It takes a bit of time, very messy with glue and definitely needs a second , even better a third person to help .

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

If I cut up an off the shelf handrail myself, wouldnt the saw kerf cause problems when gluing it back together??? I'm guessing putting it through the tablesaw would be a bad idea as the 3mm thickness of the blade would cause probs when gluing??thanks for the info!!keep it coming !!:)

It needs to be planed smooth after cutting, of course you'll need extra wood to make up for what you lose between the saw blade and planing.

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

It needs to be planed smooth after cutting, of course you'll need extra wood to make up for what you lose between the saw blade and planing.

yeah I follow you alright, thats seriously good thinking in fairness, any chance atall of convining you to show a pic of the brackets?? or maybe even a work in progress sometime????:D:D:D

galwaydude18

God that is handy enough to do so long as you have enough help. Now next question how do you usually mark the joints on a curved handrail to fit into the newel posts? Are the spindles still square in a curved handrail?

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

yeah I follow you alright, thats seriously good thinking in fairness, any chance atall of convining you to show a pic of the brackets?? or maybe even a work in progress sometime????:D:D:D

I'll take a few pics of the brackets tomorrow.;)
I have some pics on another camera at the workshop of a work in progress, i'll get them uploaded.
Aw feck, all my secrets given away..;LOL:D

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

God that is handy enough to do so long as you have enough help. Now next question how do you usually mark the joints on a curved handrail to fit into the newel posts? Are the spindles still square in a curved handrail?

Square spindles fit fine, it's the filler pieces in between that will be cut off square to suit. The marking of the cuts takes a bit of working out, safest to cut it long if in doubt, and keep cutting until good.

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

I'll take a few pics of the brackets tomorrow.;)
I have some pics on another camera at the workshop of a work in progress, i'll get them uploaded.
Aw feck, all my secrets given away..;LOL:D

seriously though, thanks for the help, I know I'll run into problems but i'll def try on this model of mine...:):)

galwaydude18

How are the strings setup then? Is it a similar process?

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

How are the strings setup then? Is it a similar process?

Light laminates screwed straight to the concrete,lots of glue with the last layer pinned.

galwaydude18

Dont worry I seriously doubt we will put you out of business :) I might get to attempt this one day when I have the funds to build my own house :D

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

Light laminates screwed straight to the concrete,lots of glue with the last layer pinned.

would they look alright just plastered?

galwaydude18

Sorry I meant for a complete wooden string stairs?

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

would they look alright just plastered?

Perfectly good plastered, needs a tasty plasterer and make sure the bottom edge is beaded.

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Sorry I meant for a complete wooden string stairs?

Complete wooden one, you need to build a drum as a template.:cool:

galwaydude18

Is there a seperate drum for each string? How do you mark the string out? Is it on the drum you mark the string on?

johnpawl

galwayrush wrote: »

Perfectly good plastered, needs a tasty plasterer and make sure the bottom edge is beaded.

So basically what I'd need to do to finish the concrete stairs(presuming I can shutter it, need to figure out the outer and inner string tomo!:D) is stick on timber treads, do the hand rail and spindles, then let rest to plasterer???
How would you recommend attaching spindles to treads??

galwayrush

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Is there a seperate drum for each string? How do you mark the string out? Is it on the drum you mark the string on?

You need a seperate drum for each side, it adds a lot of time i'm afraid. Easy enough to mark out using a spirit level and a T Square, i find it easier to do a cut string version as opposed to a closed string as no need for a router on the cut string and the spindles fit onto the step.

galwayrush

johnpawl wrote: »

So basically what I'd need to do to finish the concrete stairs(presuming I can shutter it, need to figure out the outer and inner string tomo!:D) is stick on timber treads, do the hand rail and spindles, then let rest to plasterer???
How would you recommend attaching spindles to treads??

I always mitre the edge of the steps to eliminate the end grain exposure, the spindles can be either dovetailed into the steps before the return edge mitre is fitted, or simply dowelled.

galwaydude18

Ok I see. How do you cramp the laminations together on the drum if you were doing a full solid string (not a cut string) ?