the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

dahat · 07-04-2021 11:43am

Ultegra chainset on a new bike - can i swap out 52/36 for 53/39 chainrings or will i need a new chainset?

AhhHere · 07-04-2021 1:47pm

AhhHere wrote: »

That is an excellent video thanks. Need to pick up a multi tool and spare tire. Wheels aren;t quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?

Sorry these are reall stupid questions. Thanks for your patience.

Wanted to follow up on my own question as it might help someone else.

I have a Trek Domane SL3 and didn't realise there's a detachable key on the rear axle that can come off to remove the front axle. No additional tool required. From the YouTube comments, it's a common feature in other bikes as well as Treks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=157&v=uV_bTo0rssU&feature=emb_title

km991148 · 07-04-2021 2:16pm

dahat wrote: »

Ultegra chainset on a new bike - can i swap out 52/36 for 53/39 chainrings or will i need a new chainset?

Hah, I came here to ask about that too for 105 52/36 to 53/39.

I think you can buy the chainrings, disassemble and put new ones in.

Question is what cassette to use - is an 11-30 mad on a 53/39?

Currently have 11-28 on the 52/36.

dahat · 07-04-2021 2:51pm

km991148 wrote: »

Hah, I came here to ask about that too for 105 52/36 to 53/39.

I think you can buy the chainrings, disassemble and put new ones in.

Question is what cassette to use - is an 11-30 mad on a 53/39?

Currently have 11-28 on the 52/36.

Are the chainsets all 110bcd? This would mean you can but older ones were 110/130 bcd.

If i do i'll be running an 11/30 cassette, should be fun and allow mean some leeway for hills while giving me some power on rolling stuff.

Edit: well aware that legs give power not chainrings.

nicksnikita · 07-04-2021 3:04pm

dahat wrote: »

Are the chainsets all 110bcd? This would mean you can but older ones were 110/130 bcd.

If i do i'll be running an 11/30 cassette, should be fun and allow mean some leeway for hills while giving me some power on rolling stuff.

WARNING: Installing 53-39 won't give you any more power.

dahat · 07-04-2021 4:10pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

WARNING: Installing 53-39 won't give you any more power.

I know!

CramCycle · 07-04-2021 5:36pm

dahat wrote: »

Ultegra chainset on a new bike - can i swap out 52/36 for 53/39 chainrings or will i need a new chainset?

Yep, I've done it without issue, you should get away with not changing anything but the rings.

dahat · 07-04-2021 5:45pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Yep, I've done it without issue, you should get away with not changing anything but the rings.

Thanks for confirming that, way cheaper than a chainset.

DaveyDave · 08-04-2021 2:36pm

DaveyDave wrote: »

Got a new cassette for the turbo the other month, bike wasn't running smooth so I replaced the chain and it still isn't running smoothly. Rotating the pedals with my hand the chain seems to move outward ever so slightly at a certain rotation of the cassette.

Cassette refit to ensure it's flat, no play. No kinks or stiffness in the new chain. Definitely doesn't feel good when pedaling. I'll try swapping them and see if it persists. 11 speed Shimano 25-12 cassette, SRAM chain.

I haven't changed a cassette in a few years, is there a break in period?

So I swapped the cassettes around. After a bit of indexing it didn't seem to help the new cassette on the turbo, now the old cassette is on the turbo and new cassette on the bike. Cycled on the turbo and as expected the old cassette is fine, didn't ride the bike with the new cassette as it's raining but as I was going through the gears it felt smooth. Considering the gears were fine it's odd that it felt a bit off when pedaling.

Sorted anyway!

ofthelord · 08-04-2021 5:57pm

Hi All,
In the process of trying to identify the source of a very annoying creaking/clicking sound on my bike I removed the seat post to clean out any grit which may have gotten in around there. While I had the seat post out I noticed printed on it in small text near the bottom of the post "do not use off road".
This is the seatpost type - Orbea OC-I 27.2x350mm.
The bike (Orbea Terra) came with this seatpost and I have been using the bike for over a year now without issue, with the majority of the cycling being off road on a mixture of fire-roads and some pretty bumpy trails.

Just really wondering if anyone here knows if it'd be advisable for me to upgrade the seatpost to something more durable and off road suited? I think just seeing this note on the seatpost has put it in my head that it'll break on the next bumpy off road section i hit!!
Thanks.

EDit · 10-04-2021 4:17pm

EDit wrote: »

job of changing rear derailleur has morphed into a need to change rear gear cable (when the old derailleur was removed, the cable was found to be seriously frayed and trying to tidy it up has only made things worse)

Anyway, question is whether replacing rear gear cable is really as straightforward as the various YT videos make it out to be? The bike is a giant TCR (2019) and has internal cabling (if that makes a difference)

So i swapped in some new gear cable on my bike and (per the YT videos) it was relatively easy. I’m now changing the rear derailleur on my wife’s bike and aimed to do that without a cable change. However, the cable seems a bit short in terms of reaching the clamp on the new derailleur.

So my question is... is the cable being too short expected when going from short cage to medium cage derailleur or should it not make any difference (ie, the body of the derailleurs would be the same)?

Weepsie · 10-04-2021 4:35pm

Weepsie wrote: »

Anyone able to help with a 4700 front derailleur at all.

I can't get it right whatsoever. Or when I get it right any minor change throws it.

All from the beginning tension. Have it all set, cabled up and the first shift is just basically empty, like I'm pressing on nothing, then it shifts to big ring. Something wrong with this trim shift.

Then i redo it and I can get it to shift up but not return.

It's that nothing trim shift (probably wrong term) that's doing my head in though.

I've watched 2 excellent videos that go through every single step that even park tool and others ignore, and still in getting it wrong.

Aaargh, this has gone to new realms of annoying me. New housing found, 2nd new cable in.

If I just pull on the cable as for tension as it's leaving it's housing on the down the the shifter goes up and down with no issue.

Once I run it down frame and under bb and through the cable guide and onto derailleur it gets that empty upshift.

I've taken everything off, realigned and tried different limit settings but all to no avail.

magicbastarder · 10-04-2021 10:03pm

anyone know if this is available in ireland? and if not, a comparable product?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3THVf2xS33Y

cletus · 10-04-2021 10:18pm

I haven't seen it for sale in any shops. Here's a .ie domain selling it, but not sure if it's actually an Irish website.

https://www.efox.ie/shop_item.php?section1=Lubrication&section2=Rust%20Remover

Alternatively, there's the vinegar approach, or the electrolytic approach. The latter is trickier to do, but I find it works better than the vinegar

magicbastarder · 10-04-2021 10:25pm

cheers, they do seem to have a presence here.
i'm also trying to rescue some 1950s steel gutters rather than replacing them with PVC, so immersion is out of the question.

g0g · 10-04-2021 10:43pm

Need to replace the cranks (not necessarily front ring) on a Boardman Pro 2016-ish MTB I bought second hand. Don't want to go nuts and spend SRAM GX money (€ 120+) on one so am looking on Ali Express at GXP cranks.
How the hell do I figure if I need 3mm or 6mm offset for it? I think it's something to do with Boost which I haven't a clue about. It doesn't appear to be written on the chainring as the internet suggests!
For example this one has options of 170mm/34T/3mm and 170mm/34T/6mm

Weepsie · 10-04-2021 11:00pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

anyone know if this is available in ireland? and if not, a comparable product?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3THVf2xS33Y

I have some rust removing gel stuff. Welcome to try it out

cletus · 10-04-2021 11:59pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

cheers, they do seem to have a presence here.
i'm also trying to rescue some 1950s steel gutters rather than replacing them with PVC, so immersion is out of the question.

For the gutters, have a look at how this guy deals with large pieces of steel

https://youtu.be/zYlxZD9hjTk

Otherwise, angle grinder and wire brush attachments

54and56 · 11-04-2021 3:42pm

Thanks to the advice I got her a few weeks ago I'm now set up to do regular cleaning and chain lubing etc plus some DIY maintenance but I'm not a very accomplished DIY'er so tend to get the LBS to do anything more than routine cleaning and lubing.

The wall mounted stand rack I got from Amazon was only £15 and is an easy and tidy solution which folds up and away when not in use. Two bolts into the garden wall and the job was Oxo.

One question I do have relates to the disc brakes. I know they are to be covered when applying lube and never to use spray lube etc on the chain/cassette but is it OK to let degreaser and / or muck off type washing liquid near them or are they to be kept dry and free of all liquids at all times?

ridelikeaturtle · 11-04-2021 3:58pm

Here's a good article about bicycle disc brakes - seems there are some minor differences between car and bicycle brakes that could be important. (E.g., don't buy a giant can of "brake cleaner" that'd work for a car's disc brake rotors, for your bicycle, etc.)

https://off.road.cc/content/feature/whats-the-best-way-to-clean-disc-brakes-on-a-bicycle-2937

54and56 · 11-04-2021 4:04pm

ridelikeaturtle wrote: »

Here's a good article about bicycle disc brakes - seems there are some minor differences between car and bicycle brakes that could be important. (E.g., don't buy a giant can of "brake cleaner" that'd work for a car's disc brake rotors, for your bicycle, etc.)

https://off.road.cc/content/feature/whats-the-best-way-to-clean-disc-brakes-on-a-bicycle-2937

I have some isopropyl alcohol so going to give that a go now.

Thanks for the article, very helpful.

Type 17 · 11-04-2021 4:24pm

I've never had any issues with soapy water on disc brakes, although I don't use washing up liquid (salt content), and I do make sure that the brakes are well-rinsed with clean water.

MojoMaker · 11-04-2021 5:39pm

Nice Trek, but that saddle looks....painful :pac:

velo.2010 · 11-04-2021 6:14pm

When replacing headset bearings, always remember to replace BOTH bearings at the same time. I thought the top bearing was fine when I replaced the tricky bottom one over the Christmas. Surprisingly, the steering started to feel rough after only a few weeks, but I decided to put the winter/spare bike away. Took it out to have a look at it the other day and, lo and behold, I find the top bearing is fcuked. Luckily, I had a spare top bearing and replaced it there and then. No more problems... hopefully.

jethrothe2nd · 11-04-2021 8:32pm

The allen bolt to centralise my 105 direct mount brakes has stripped and no matter what I do I can't get it to budge. Any ideas on ways to move it?

Also wondering if it is a replaceable item?

CianRyan · 11-04-2021 8:34pm

jethrothe2nd wrote: »

The allen bolt to centralise my 105 direct mount brakes has stripped and no matter what I do I can't get it to budge. Any ideas on ways to move it?

Also wondering if it is a replaceable item?

Can you post a picture?

jethrothe2nd · 11-04-2021 8:45pm

CianRyan wrote: »

Can you post a picture?

I've given up and put the bike back in the shed, but below is a picture off the web with the bolt highlighted

105.PNG

Type 17 · 11-04-2021 8:46pm

If you can get the old one out, a replacement is available - part no. Y8PS14000

jethrothe2nd · 11-04-2021 8:48pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you can get the old one out, a replacement is available - part no. Y8PS14000

Magic - thanks a million

magicbastarder · 11-04-2021 8:49pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you can get the old one out, a replacement is available - part no. Y8PS14000

there's an interesting question - is that the cheapest genuine dura-ace part it's possible to buy separately?

'oh yeah, my bike is a mixture of 105 and dura ace...'

jethrothe2nd · 11-04-2021 8:58pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

there's an interesting question - is that the cheapest genuine dura-ace part it's possible to buy separately?

'oh yeah, my bike is a mixture of 105 and dura ace...'

It might well be until you add in delivery from that website which comes in at a whopping 30 quid sterling for express delivery with no other available shipping options.

Have to shop around a bit - I might drop down to the lbs and see if they have one lying around (if I can get the bust one out)

Type 17 · 12-04-2021 8:25am

Yeah, I only used that link to illustrate the part and its part number, some Googling of the part number is required.

Pity about SJS now being stuck behind the “Brexit Curtain”, they were great for tricky small parts like this.

CramCycle · 12-04-2021 1:40pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Yeah, I only used that link to illustrate the part and its part number, some Googling of the part number is required.

Pity about SJS now being stuck behind the “Brexit Curtain”, they were great for tricky small parts like this.

Holy f***, just looked at SJS shipping, 35euro for a 2euro part

CramCycle · 12-04-2021 1:59pm

jethrothe2nd wrote: »

It might well be until you add in delivery from that website which comes in at a whopping 30 quid sterling for express delivery with no other available shipping options.

Have to shop around a bit - I might drop down to the lbs and see if they have one lying around (if I can get the bust one out)

thebikeinn have it for €2.50 and €8.50 shipping with An Post so a better bet even if still shockingly expensive

fat bloke · 12-04-2021 2:06pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Holy f***, just looked at SJS shipping, 35euro for a 2euro part

Jeez! I predict a new wave of thievery. Like the lads cutting catalytic convertors out of Priuses. Be wary of anyone loitering around coffee shops with a tiny Allen key

68 lost souls · 12-04-2021 2:32pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Holy f***, just looked at SJS shipping, 35euro for a 2euro part

If its a small part like that chance your arm and ring them or email and ask can they pop it in a iffy bag and royal mail it to you?

magicbastarder · 12-04-2021 2:57pm

€8.49 (delivered) for the part from bikeinn.

Type 17 · 12-04-2021 4:39pm

68 lost souls wrote: »

If its a small part like that chance your arm and ring them or email and ask can they pop it in a iffy bag and royal mail it to you?

Actually, they state on their delivery info page that this is possible:

Any orders being exported with a packed weight under 100grams can be sent untracked to offer a cheaper postage option for small items. If selecting the untracked method please be aware that this shipping method will take longer than the tracked method - anything up to 30 working days is to be expected.

Might be useful if a part is unavailable elsewhere.

nicksnikita · 12-04-2021 5:40pm

68 lost souls wrote: »

If its a small part like that chance your arm and ring them or email and ask can they pop it in a iffy bag and royal mail it to you?

Spare yourself the hassle. I tried the above and got an aggressive response that effectively said stump up if you want the part. Needless to say...I didn't stump up

MojoMaker · 12-04-2021 6:42pm

Which tells me the postage isn't that indicated cost at all.

CramCycle · 12-04-2021 6:49pm

Other option is too ask your LBS to order it and get it in with their next Shimano delivery. Probably more reasonable than most of the options stated so far.

retalivity · 14-04-2021 1:05pm

So i hadnt cycled in a week, went down yesterday evening to the basement (I live in an apt block) and saw that the bikes around my bike were all gone with locks cut etc, but mine was still there. Checked the lock on mine all ok, but when I took it out I saw the damage below to the frame - looks like whoever was robbing bikes tried to twist mine over to break the lock, damaging it in the process, and then gave up.
I took it out for an hour or so yesterday to test it, all was ok. Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole. Said that they could not repair it, there are a few places in Ireland that may be able to fix it but to have a look online and see.
Have any experience with something like this and what can be done? Bike is only 1.5 years old, structurally it seems fine but the LBS guy has me wary now so would like it fixed asap. Any recommendations on carbon repairs in the Dublin area? Is it worth repairing? Looking around broefly online I see what frame repairs are anywhere from €100 - €300+, which seems reasonable...

tomasrojo · 14-04-2021 1:46pm

Anyone know what tool is required to unscrew the core of a Shimano hub dynamo out of the hub shell?

This sort of thing:

I just checked the serviceable side of the hub, and it's pristine, so the slight resistance I'm getting when the wheel turns must be in the non-serviceable ball bearings in the dynamo core. It's only about €35 to replace the core, and it's done over 35,000km, so it's probably time.

The guy in this video made his own pin spanner to do it (1:50), but if the actual tool doesn't cost that much I'll get that. I don't want to go down the route of using a hammer and chisel or anything like that. I have an old-style bottom bracket pin spanner, but it won't do the job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaDhrLFRpx8

tomasrojo · 14-04-2021 1:47pm

retalivity wrote: »

Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole.

You can see holes in the frame from the stress of the distortion, so, while I don't know much about carbon fibre, it does look like a write-off, alas.

tomasrojo · 14-04-2021 1:52pm

(Definitely don't take my word for it though. I know nothing about carbon fibre, except that it's supposed to fail spectacularly when it does fail.)

magicbastarder · 14-04-2021 2:27pm

that's stuffed; totally. completely unsafe to ride.
i'm no specialist in carbon fibre, not even close, but once there's even a crack in it, it's bin it or repair it, and that looks way too extensive to repair.

ARX · 14-04-2021 3:09pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Holy f***, just looked at SJS shipping, 35euro for a 2euro part

They told me that "we are only using DHL for export orders due to their reliability compared to other carriers we have tried. We hope to resume normal shipping prices asap" which seems fair enough to me. Funnily enough it was £15 to Australia or Russia and £60 to Sweden when I checked.

8valve · 14-04-2021 7:34pm

retalivity wrote: »

So i hadnt cycled in a week, went down yesterday evening to the basement (I live in an apt block) and saw that the bikes around my bike were all gone with locks cut etc, but mine was still there. Checked the lock on mine all ok, but when I took it out I saw the damage below to the frame - looks like whoever was robbing bikes tried to twist mine over to break the lock, damaging it in the process, and then gave up.
I took it out for an hour or so yesterday to test it, all was ok. Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole. Said that they could not repair it, there are a few places in Ireland that may be able to fix it but to have a look online and see.
Have any experience with something like this and what can be done? Bike is only 1.5 years old, structurally it seems fine but the LBS guy has me wary now so would like it fixed asap. Any recommendations on carbon repairs in the Dublin area? Is it worth repairing? Looking around broefly online I see what frame repairs are anywhere from €100 - €300+, which seems reasonable...

Only one man for a carbon repair job like that; Marko, in Altitude, in Waterford.

The man is a a genius when it comes to composites/carbon repairs and has repaired stuff, to better than new, that many others would deem a write off.

Be warned there is usually a waiting list for his work, though.

tomasrojo · 14-04-2021 8:26pm

tomasrojo wrote: »

Anyone know what tool is required to unscrew the core of a Shimano hub dynamo out of the hub shell?

This sort of thing:

Think this might be the correct tool.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-tools-maintenance/bicycle-tools/bicycle-hub-tools/shimano-key-hub-dynamo-tl-dh20/?country_id=260

Pretty pricey. I might have to make something after all. The video I linked in that post, and another post on YouTube, seem to have used 8mm bolts filed to be square embedded in some metal as a wrench.

cletus · 14-04-2021 8:31pm

tomasrojo wrote: »

Think this might be the correct tool.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-tools-maintenance/bicycle-tools/bicycle-hub-tools/shimano-key-hub-dynamo-tl-dh20/?country_id=260

Pretty pricey. I might have to make something after all. The video I linked in that post, and another post on YouTube, seem to have used 8mm bolts filed to be square embedded in some metal as a wrench.

Jesus.

Does it have the same crenellation pattern as another normal freehub/freewheel tool? If so, it would be much easier to just cut the wall section out of an old one

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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