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Fixing bolts / what size ? 3x2 timber

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,872 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Paddy, if you hang your joists (3X2s) on the wall plate(4x2),bottoms level.
    then the gutter on the joists, you will have to raise the perspex above the gutter,
    without raising it at the house side.(vent)
    how to circumvent that pillar is another story .
    not to mention flashing on the house wall.
    I can see plenty mileage in this yet for us.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Paddy, if you hang your joists (3X2s) on the wall plate(4x2),bottoms level.
    then the gutter on the joists, you will have to raise the perspex above the gutter,
    without raising it at the house side.(vent)
    how to circumvent that pillar is another story .
    not to mention flashing on the house wall.
    I can see plenty mileage in this yet for us.

    oh me too!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,872 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Ok,Have a look at how this lad does it
    to make the job a bit easier;
    start your cover after the pier, that way you avoid a chicane around the pier or cutting a few inches off the blocks in the pier to get a straight line for the gutter.
    It also allows you to avoid the boiler vent when flashing at the house wall.
    You haven't got much height at the lower end; 8 blocks minus the wall plate,less than 6ft.
    So consider raising the beam on the house wall.
    If you intend using the gutter in the photo ,hang your joists (3 X 2s)such that
    when the gutter is placed along them it's below the top of the wall.
    A small triangular fillet where the joist meets the wall plate,and a length of plywood across the joists for the gutter to sit on would look better from below.
    No need for gutter brackets , it can be fixed directly to the wall plate, as high as possible.
    You are going to need purlins/battens across the joists, so they should be deep enough
    to allow the sheeting to run into the gutter. butt the first one right up to the gutter.
    If you are using flashband at the house wall maybe run a length of it along the top of the first purlin down into the gutter.
    Wherever you get your sheeting you should be able to get foam evesfiller and
    wall flashing in the same sizes as your sheets
    Someone on here may have a better plan , or find fault with this one.
    It's how I would do it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Ok,Have a look at how this lad does it
    to make the job a bit easier;
    start your cover after the pier, that way you avoid a chicane around the pier or cutting a few inches off the blocks in the pier to get a straight line for the gutter.
    It also allows you to avoid the boiler vent when flashing at the house wall.
    You haven't got much height at the lower end; 8 blocks minus the wall plate,less than 6ft.
    So consider raising the beam on the house wall.
    If you intend using the gutter in the photo ,hang your joists (3 X 2s)such that
    when the gutter is placed along them it's below the top of the wall.
    A small triangular fillet where the joist meets the wall plate,and a length of plywood across the joists for the gutter to sit on would look better from below.
    No need for gutter brackets , it can be fixed directly to the wall plate, as high as possible.
    You are going to need purlins/battens across the joists, so they should be deep enough
    to allow the sheeting to run into the gutter. butt the first one right up to the gutter.
    If you are using flashband at the house wall maybe run a length of it along the top of the first purlin down into the gutter.
    Wherever you get your sheeting you should be able to get foam evesfiller and
    wall flashing in the same sizes as your sheets
    Someone on here may have a better plan , or find fault with this one.
    It's how I would do it.

    Very interesting and thanks for taking time for all that excellent info


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