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Knitting - help and advice super thread!

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Comments

  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    Anyone know where I can get good colours for knitting toys. Websites would be great as I am on a bedrest pregnancy!! I need loads of different bright colours. Am using Jean greenhowe books

    eBay - Robin do a range of lovely coloured yarns for toys. Cheap as chips too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    woolwindings.blogspot.com/2007/07/upside-down-daisy-hat.html?m=1


    I've started knitting this hat on 3.25 needles with Debbie Bliss Cotton.

    A lady on a knitting site altered the pattern for me to knit on regular needles. But now I'm seeing I'm supposed to use bigger needles, help! I've already got a good bit done. Could someone just tell me if 82 cast on stitches sounds like it'd fit a 1-2 year old?! Having a crisis moment!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    Right, your gauge could be about 25 sts per 4 inches.

    So that means the length of piece you have knitted could be 13.5 inches.
    (85/25 * 4 inches)

    Will this go around her head?

    To be honest it sounds small, but best thing to do is just keep going. If you knitting is loose you could be saved, mine is quite tight so I never get away with it. Also I find knitting in straight needles instead of circulars can make it tighter.


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    wmpdd3 wrote: »
    Right, your gauge could be about 25 sts per 4 inches.

    So that means the length of piece you have knitted could be 13.5 inches.
    (85/25 * 4 inches)

    Will this go around her head?

    To be honest it sounds small, but best thing to do is just keep going. If you knitting is loose you could be saved, mine is quite tight so I never get away with it. Also I find knitting in straight needles instead of circulars can make it tighter.

    All the hats that I have knitted by big headed baba and not once did I think to calculate out the gauge by stitches. All that ripping and restarting (and redesigning fairisle patterns!) that could have been avoided.

    :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    O dear! Well I'm so confused as the Debbie Bliss Eco Cotton calls for 3.25 from the Irish site I bought it from but then on ravelry it says 4.0mm hmmm? I'll start again I just want it to be gorgeous and fit my little'un! I have no idea how to do gauge or swatch, can't understand it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    I usually use 4mm for Debbie Bliss Cotton (havent used Eco).

    I still think, dont rip it back, you should get 2 hats out of 100g, if you have the yarn just continue, you might be lucky.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    I've measured the length of the hat and it's 18 inches so am just going to keep going with it for now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    Ok the TENSION is 30sts and 38 rows to 10 cm over st-st using 2.75 needles. It says to cast on 97 sts and work as follows: RS K1, yf, *k5, slip the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sts over the first st, yf: rep from * to last st, k1


    Does anyone have any idea www.allaboutyou.com/craft/pattern-finder/knitting-patterns/designer-knitting-patterns/knit-a-babies-hat-free-pattern-48542 how to alter this to fit 1-2 year old? Please, haven't got a clue how to work it out. Do I have to alter every row?


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    LaLucy wrote: »
    Ok the TENSION is 30sts and 38 rows to 10 cm over st-st using 2.75 needles. It says to cast on 97 sts and work as follows: RS K1, yf, *k5, slip the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sts over the first st, yf: rep from * to last st, k1


    Does anyone have any idea www.allaboutyou.com/craft/pattern-finder/knitting-patterns/designer-knitting-patterns/knit-a-babies-hat-free-pattern-48542 how to alter this to fit 1-2 year old? Please, haven't got a clue how to work it out. Do I have to alter every row?

    Did you try this?

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=74780147&postcount=138


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    Das Kitty wrote: »

    Brilliant! One more question, should I add 30 to the 97 which is for 0-3 month old or add it onto the 127 which is for the 6-9 month? Would it be way off if I had 45 to 127 for fit up to 24 month old? Thank you :)


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  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    LaLucy wrote: »
    Brilliant! One more question, should I add 30 to the 97 which is for 0-3 month old or add it onto the 127 which is for the 6-9 month? Would it be way off if I had 45 to 127 for fit up to 24 month old? Thank you :)

    Well their heads don't keep growing at the same rate. The hat I made for my boy last year still fits him this year (he'll be 2 in the new year). I reckon just add 30 on to the largest size, it should be enough if not more than enough.


    The reason people knit a gauge is that two knitters with the same needles and yarn can make dramatically different sizes of garments as their natural knitting style can be tighter or looser than the norm. I always knit a gauge square for a large garment, but for something like a hat I rarely bother as it's so quick to knit. But that's just me!

    So if the gauge on the ball of yarn says 4x4" = 22 row, 16 stitches, I would cast on 20 stitches and knit say 25 rows and measure the 4x4" and see how many rows and stitches it takes to form that size, if it's more than the number on the gauge I would try again with the next size up needles and vice versa if it took fewer stitches to meet the gauge.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    Das Kitty wrote: »
    Well their heads don't keep growing at the same rate. The hat I made for my boy last year still fits him this year (he'll be 2 in the new year). I reckon just add 30 on to the largest size, it should be enough if not more than enough.


    The reason people knit a gauge is that two knitters with the same needles and yarn can make dramatically different sizes of garments as their natural knitting style can be tighter or looser than the norm. I always knit a gauge square for a large garment, but for something like a hat I rarely bother as it's so quick to knit. But that's just me!

    So if the gauge on the ball of yarn says 4x4" = 22 row, 16 stitches, I would cast on 20 stitches and knit say 25 rows and measure the 4x4" and see how many rows and stitches it takes to form that size, if it's more than the number on the gauge I would try again with the next size up needles and vice versa if it took fewer stitches to meet the gauge.

    Just realised I should have just common sense! Sorry my brain is very mushy... On the Debbie Bliss Eco Baby label it says 34 rows, 25 sts is 4in but that's with 3.25 needles. But in the hat pattern it's different as it's softer yarn but hopefully if I just use the 2.75 needles it'll turn out ok. My baby girl isn't a big baby or anything so hopefully it'll be fine. Thank you Das Kitty really appreciate your help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    I've done casting on 157 stitches then the first row, wow that was hard! How many stitches should I have left on the needle, how would I check? I have 63 but think one may have dropped at the end uh oh


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    You should have 135 after row 2


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Ladybirdgirl


    Hi guys,
    Having not knitted for years, I started a Debbie Bliss shawl/blanket in 2009 when I was pregnant. I made loads of mistakes and didn't get it finished and when baby arrived, no more time! Anyway now I'm pregnant again and really want to finish it. Thing is, I'm in Spain, book is in Dublin (Baby Cashmerino 3) and I can't buy it online as it's out of print, anyone got it and willing to give me even the pattern for the border? I'll be bale to get it in about 4 weeks but I'm on a deadline here!!
    Have the knitting but am not experienced enough to reverse engineer it.
    Thanks a million
    LBG


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    I'm stuck on row 2! Tried it over and over. How the hell do I p,yo,ktbl all in same st? I'm confused about where the back loop is as there is a big gap from the first row and it gets twisted. So should I be doing it with the yarn over piece from row 1 or the normal stitch?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    LaLucy wrote: »
    I'm stuck on row 2! Tried it over and over. How the hell do I p,yo,ktbl all in same st? I'm confused about where the back loop is as there is a big gap from the first row and it gets twisted. So should I be doing it with the yarn over piece from row 1 or the normal stitch?

    The ktbl is the easy bit, it just means knot through the back of the stitch to make the knitting slightly twisted.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1KiHViK160

    So you will purl , then yarn over then knit through the back of the stitch. I dont think it should be in the same stitch?

    How many stitches should you have and how many times should you repeat the instructions above?

    If you should have 50 stitches and should repeat the instructions above 25 times then you purl the first stitch then yarn over then knit the 2nd stitch through the back loop.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    P1, * [p1, yon, k1 tbl] all into next st, p1; rep from *to end

    I started with 157, after 1st row, 65, now for 2nd row it should be 135


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    When you're working more than one stitch into an existing stitch, you do as you normally would but don't slip the stitch from the left needle until you have the last stitch worked.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    Should I be working with the yarned over stitch from row 1 or the one left on the needle after slipping the 2nd-5th over? I'm confused as to where the back is, and sometimes I was using the yarn over piece and sometimes the normal one. So I purl 1, then purl, don't slip it off, take the yarn between the needles to the back. Put the right needle through the back of the stitch still on the needle wrap the yarn around and then pull off. Then purl 1 then do purl 1, don't pull off etc..


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    LaLucy wrote: »
    Should I be working with the yarned over stitch from row 1 or the one left on the needle after slipping the 2nd-5th over?

    I'm confused as to where the back is, and sometimes I was using the yarn over piece and sometimes the normal one. So I purl 1, then purl, don't slip it off, take the yarn between the needles to the back.

    Put the right needle through the back of the stitch still on the needle wrap the yarn around and then pull off.


    Then purl 1 then do purl 1, don't pull off etc..

    Yes the bit in bold sounds right in relation to the instruction you gave above.


  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭LaLucy


    Stuck again sorry! On row 7 it says k and inc 1 (dec 1 : dec 3) sts evenly across row. And then it gives the amount of stitches which should be left 81/91/101 or in my case 121. Right now I have 135. What do I do for row 7? Thanks so much :)


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    LaLucy wrote: »
    Stuck again sorry! On row 7 it says k and inc 1 (dec 1 : dec 3) sts evenly across row. And then it gives the amount of stitches which should be left 81/91/101 or in my case 121. Right now I have 135. What do I do for row 7? Thanks so much :)


    I think I was wrong earlier about the 135, I just gave it a quick glance

    CO 157
    After R2 - 129
    After R3 - 128
    On Row 7 decrease 7 evenly around (every 16th stitch in this case, I think)
    After R7 - 121


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 panda708




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Ladybirdgirl


    Thanks Panda,
    Really appreciate that! Had a bit of a mare on the site trying to oder though.... Will call them tomorrow.
    LBG


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 gbarry


    not used to knitting... so can some tell me exactly what this means...

    "Beg fisherman's rib - when counting sts count the yarn over needle and the slip st as one st.
    Foundation row - P1,K1*sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make stitch), K1, rep from * to last st, P1.
    1st row - K1, sl 1 purlways with yarn over the needle (to make a stitch), *K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row, sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make a stitch),rep from*to last st, K1.
    2nd row - P1, K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row,*sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make a stitch), K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row, rep from * to last st, P1"

    if anyone can make sense of this please let me know!! PLEASE HELP:confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    gbarry wrote: »
    not used to knitting... so can some tell me exactly what this means...

    "Beg fisherman's rib - when counting sts count the yarn over needle and the slip st as one st.

    When using this pattern, count the stitches and the slanty yarn over the needle as one stitch rather than 2 as with this pattern the yarn over will be knitted together in the next row to for the pattern.

    Foundation row - P1,K1*sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make stitch), K1, rep from * to last st, P1.

    purl one stitch,, knit one, slip the next stitch from one needle to the other with out doing anything to it, then bring the yarn over the needle from back to front and back again to make a stitch, then knit one. Repeat this step until yo have one stitch left and then purl that one.


    1st row - K1, sl 1 purlways with yarn over the needle (to make a stitch), *K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row, sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make a stitch),rep from*to last st, K1.

    Knit one, move the yarn as if you were going to purl one but instead slip the stitch onto the next needle without doing anything to it.
    Now, knit the next 2 stitches on you needle together to make one. Next wrap the yarn around the needle to make a stitch from back to front and around to the front again, keep doing this until theres only one stitch and then just knit that one


    2nd row - P1, K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row,*sl 1 purlways with yarn over needle (to make a stitch), K1 together with the yarn over needle from previous row, rep from * to last st, P1"


    if anyone can make sense of this please let me know!! PLEASE HELP:confused:

    This basically as above, make sense?


  • Registered Users Posts: 240 ✭✭Framed10


    Hi guys, I used to knit waaaaaay back in school but would love to try again.
    I want to knit a nice hat, maybe with 2 colours for an xmas gift and maybe even a scarf to go with it if I can manage it.

    So I was wondering if anyone has suggestions of good patterns of nice hats I could use?
    I've read here of people using circular needles etc, whats the best way to knit it?
    And also whats the best wool type to use for a hat and scarf?

    I like these alot but not sure how complicated they would be as a first try?
    http://www.jerinknits.com/cindylou-knitting-pattern/
    http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/denver/denver_1.html

    or maybe you know of easier similar patterns?
    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    I love the 2 of them, the red and white one looks easier but as there is no visible seam it must be knit on circulars. i loves using circulars as once you cast off the hat is done!

    The second one looks easy enough but there will be alot of carrying yarn at the back, but using straight needles so you'd be sewing it together once it was knit. It would be a bit harder than the first.

    There's not really much odd stitches in with of them just changing colour and decreasing|(knit 2 together).

    I'd say try the red and white one first, you'll be an expert by the time you start the second 1.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 240 ✭✭Framed10


    what type of wool would you recommend to use? as I said I'm a total newbie.
    something soft and warm that wouldnt itch the head off me!! ?

    also what size needles (if I'm to use circular ones) and size hat would fit a med-large adult head?
    I'm not following the details given with the circular red hat too well, sorry.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    Red one:
    Yarns suggested: Stitch Nation by Debbie Stoller Full o’ Sheep (1 skein of each color)

    Ask in your wool shop for a chunky yarn suitable for size 6mm needles.

    I'd go for a 10-20%wool mix with acrylic or viscose, this will still be warm but should not be ichey.


    Gauge: 4 stitches and 5.5 rows = 1 inch in stockinette
    Needle size: US 10 – 6.0 mm

    This is the needle size you should use to get the size in the pattern.

    Sizes available: NB, 6M, 12M, , 2-3, 4-6, child, adult

    Denver hat:
    (75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool
    3 oz/85 g, 185 yds/169 m skein):
    #0023 Chocolate Truffle 3oz/85g
    #0021 Peacock 3oz/85g
    One pair US size 10 (6mm) needles for women’s hat

    Same yarn and needles would work

    One pair US size 11 (8mm) needles for men’s hat
    Bobbins
    Yarn needle


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 gbarry


    hi, i need help again!!

    next row - patt 11, p2tog, patt to last 13 sts, p2tog, patt 11. (ok, i get this part, i think)
    work 3 rows patt (guess this means the original patt not the one above)

    rep last 4 rows 10 times, (ok hard part now...) then dec row once ... 35 sts, noting to count the yarn over needle and slip st as one st.

    cont dec as before inside the 11 sts at each end in every foll alt row 5 times... 25 sts.
    work 1 row

    cast off rem sts loosely, noting to work the yarn over needle and slip st as one st

    really dont know what i am doing but 3/4 the way there because of ye guys!! thanks in advance!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    Originally Posted by gbarry
    hi, i need help again!!


    OK so you start with 59 stitches and you 3/4 the way up an arm of a cardigan.

    next row - patt 11, p2tog, patt to last 13 sts, p2tog, patt 11. (ok, i get this part, i think)
    work 3 rows patt (guess this means the original patt not the one above)

    Yes, I think so.The p2tog is going to shape the cardigan arm so it will be smaller at the top than the cuff


    rep last 4 rows 10 times, (ok hard part now...)

    Thats the hard part!!

    then dec row once ... 35 sts,

    This just means do the row above (knit 11 then p2tog etc)at the end of this row you shoud have 35 stitches, if you dont you have 35 you've prob made a few stitches but treating your yarn overs as real stitches.
    noting to count the yarn over needle and slip st as one st.

    cont dec as before inside the 11 sts at each end in every foll alt row 5 times... 25 sts. do the knit 11 p2tog thing again, then do this every 2nd row until you only have 25 stitches left on the needle.
    work 1 row


    cast off rem sts loosely, noting to work the yarn over needle and slip st as one st

    just cast off the stiches left (do you know how to do this?, but dont treat each 'yarn over' as a stitch or else you'll be creating bulk at the crown of the hat.

    really dont know what i am doing but 3/4 the way there because of ye guys!! thanks in advance!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14 gbarry


    wmpdd3 wrote: »
    Originally Posted by gbarry
    hi, i need help again!!


    OK so you start with 59 stitches and you 3/4 the way up an arm of a cardigan.

    next row - patt 11, p2tog, patt to last 13 sts, p2tog, patt 11. (ok, i get this part, i think)
    work 3 rows patt (guess this means the original patt not the one above)

    Yes, I think so.The p2tog is going to shape the cardigan arm so it will be smaller at the top than the cuff

    the whole lot of above is confusing me because... when i p2tog it puts me off when i get to the same stitch in the following row! it now does not correspond to the patt!! what do i do???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 711 ✭✭✭dammitjanet


    Hi, just wondering can anyone suggest a good site/book to learn knitting on? With idiot-proof instructions prefered :)


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  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 8,490 Mod ✭✭✭✭Fluorescence


    Youtube videos. Seriously! There's loads, it's super helpful. I found it so much easier to watch a video and copy than to read a pattern in a book or article. Just search for "how to knit" in youtube to get started. Everything you'll need to learn later you can look up specifically too.


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    Hi, just wondering can anyone suggest a good site/book to learn knitting on? With idiot-proof instructions prefered :)

    I love my Ultimate Knitting Bible. The diagrams are so clear and it really teaches you. You can pick it up fairly inexpensively from Amazon. It's a hardback.

    Apart from that if I come across something I don't know how to knit I YouTube it. For example I can never remember how to Kitchener stitch something and I do a quick search on YouTube.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,625 ✭✭✭wmpdd3


    gbarry wrote: »
    wmpdd3 wrote: »
    Originally Posted by gbarry
    hi, i need help again!!


    OK so you start with 59 stitches and you 3/4 the way up an arm of a cardigan.

    next row - patt 11, p2tog, patt to last 13 sts, p2tog, patt 11. (ok, i get this part, i think)
    work 3 rows patt (guess this means the original patt not the one above)

    Yes, I think so.The p2tog is going to shape the cardigan arm so it will be smaller at the top than the cuff

    the whole lot of above is confusing me because... when i p2tog it puts me off when i get to the same stitch in the following row! it now does not correspond to the patt!! what do i do???


    Right I get ya, whats the 'pattern', is it lace or colour blocking?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 711 ✭✭✭dammitjanet


    Yeay, thank you! I'll look up youtube and I'll also look into that book, I like having a hard copy of instructions :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭kandr10


    Hi everyone,

    Does anyone know of a nice hat pattern that's knit on straight needles? Just quite keen to get started on another project and that's all I have for the moment. Most of the ones I'm coming across are knit on the round.

    Also, I'm on ravelry but sometimes I can't see a link for the patterns. Call me an idiot...but does that mean you've to pay for some patterns? I'm at a loss!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 176 ✭✭Muirgheal


    Are you allowed to fly with knitting or crochet? I do realise that this was mentioned in the thread a few months ago, but I am asking specifically about travel to the US.

    I am traveling with Continental and United Airways to US this week. According to the TSA website, http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/editorial_1252.shtm the answer is yes.

    I would love to hear the experiences of anyone who has traveled lately and if they were able to knit mid flight. I would be a significant air-rage risk if I'm separated from my knitting or crochet, and dread the thought of long flight and layover without my needles or hook.

    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 8,490 Mod ✭✭✭✭Fluorescence


    Muirgheal wrote: »
    Are you allowed to fly with knitting or crochet? I do realise that this was mentioned in the thread a few months ago, but I am asking specifically about travel to the US.

    I am traveling with Continental and United Airways to US this week. According to the TSA website, http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/editorial_1252.shtm the answer is yes.

    I would love to hear the experiences of anyone who has traveled lately and if they were able to knit mid flight. I would be a significant air-rage risk if I'm separated from my knitting or crochet, and dread the thought of long flight and layover without my needles or hook.

    Thanks.

    If the airline allows it then yes, you can :D. You might be better off with crochet rather than knitting though if the security people aren't too certain about whether to allow you through with needles. You'll also be less likely to hit other people with your elbows :pac: (those planes can be cramped enough after all).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,065 ✭✭✭Kash


    I am really happy with the progress on my bag, but i've hit a point that i don't understand -


    RND 12-19: Work even in patt as est, slipping the 2 corner sts on every other rnd and working the ribbing as est for the side panels on every round

    Later rounds just have : work even in patt as est.

    In case you need to know the previous round: RND 11: *k2tog, k78, SSK, sl2, (k1,p1) 6 times,k1 p2 k1, (p1,k1) 6 times, sl2 * repeat once

    So, there is definitely 2 slipped stitches at each of the corners, that much makes sense.But what does it mean by every other round? What do I do with those stitches on the other other round?

    And what does work even as est mean?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭kandr10


    It sounds like you just slip the stitch on every alternate row. If you slip the stitches on the first row, just do the pattern as normal on the second, then slip again on the third etc.
    work patt as est means work the pattern as established - so I always just take that to mean follow the pattern that you've created up to that point. Hope that helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭duckling10


    hi kandr10,
    on the home page in ravelry, you will see along the top a series of buttons, for Yarns, People, Groups, Forums and Patterns, etc.
    press Patterns and you will be taken to the pattern search page, where you can specify your search options and there are hundreds if not thousands of patterns available, and one of the filters for the search allows you to choose Free Patterns of you so wish,
    eg i just did a pattern search for the word Hat and i got 20,000 results, yes 20 thousand hat patterns, of which 8,000 were free....
    so that's pretty good isn't it for a website which is free to join?
    i think so anyway,
    i am fairly addicted to Ravelry!!!
    regards
    d
    any more questions, just holler!!!!:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,065 ✭✭✭Kash


    It sounds like you just slip the stitch on every alternate row. If you slip the stitches on the first row, just do the pattern as normal on the second, then slip again on the third etc.
    work patt as est means work the pattern as established - so I always just take that to mean follow the pattern that you've created up to that point. Hope that helps.

    Thanks, that's a great help! So, on the non slip rows, i am just knitting the stitches that i would normally slip. It starting to look really nice, and at the rate i'm going, i'll be finished over the weekend. Woop woop!

    So... i am already thinking of the next project: i want to knit a baby blanket.

    But a lot of the wool i like is double knit thickness, is it ok to knit a double knit yarn on a single knit pattern?


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    Kash wrote: »
    Thanks, that's a great help! So, on the non slip rows, i am just knitting the stitches that i would normally slip. It starting to look really nice, and at the rate i'm going, i'll be finished over the weekend. Woop woop!

    So... i am already thinking of the next project: i want to knit a baby blanket.

    But a lot of the wool i like is double knit thickness, is it ok to knit a double knit yarn on a single knit pattern?

    Single yarn? Double Knit is just 8 ply, anything I have knitted with it has been using a single strand. I know the process of double knitting is kind of like tubular knitting (or something, it's one of the things I haven't learned yet).

    Do you have a pattern in mind?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,065 ✭✭✭Kash


    Das Kitty wrote: »
    Do you have a pattern in mind?

    No, not yet - I was going to have a look on ravelry.
    Is there one you would recommend?


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 17,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Das Kitty


    Kash wrote: »
    No, not yet - I was going to have a look on ravelry.
    Is there one you would recommend?

    There are so many. I love knitting lace blankets personally as I find it interesting. Knitting a big plain rectangle can get boring. You can filter on there for DK yarn if that's what you intend on using.

    The last few I knitted were from a Sirdar Baby Blanket book.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭kandr10


    Try these for baby blankets. I like the stuff from the tlc website, I've done quite a few of the baby things.

    http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/free-knitting-patterns-for-baby-blankets3.htm

    This is a nice easy one, really quick to knit up. Although it's a plain stitch it's not that boring to knit cos you're increasing or decreasing on every line and there's something satisfying about that for me anyway :) It's quite pretty cos it's so simple

    http://www.bbc.co.uk/stoke/my_pages/babywear/hkp/028.shtml


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