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How to improve a BER rating?

2»

Comments

  • #52
    dunie001
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 179 ✭✭dunie001


    For a practical example, say you had two identical rooms. One is heated by an electric oil heater, the other by an electric storage heater. If the room stats are set to the temp, and left over 24 hours i can guarantee you that the oil heater would use a significantly more amount of energy in those 24 hrs.

    Thats true syd, however it's also true that if the storage heater isn't set "just so" then you'll end up walking round the room nekkid and with all the windows open...cursing the damn storage heaters which just keep pumping out heat regardless of what temp the room is!

    So sometimes an electric oil heater (i.e. cold spell in summer) would actually be more efficient because once they are off, then that's that. Of course having both systems would be the most effective...

    Anyway, my rant was about bog standard steel radiators fed by a boiler. I'm basically wondering because we have 80's radiators downstairs and modern radiators upstairs....there always seems to be more heat in the rooms upstairs. Although I'm well aware that that heat could simply be "radiating" from downstairs to upstairs which is also better insulated.

    Although the heat in the newer rads seems to be better dispursed around the entire radiator as opposed to the older radiators which just seem to ever get hot at the top of the radiator, while the rest of it is stone cold...


  • #53
    edmund r
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭edmund r


    Hi sydthebeat

    you previoulsy mentioned this in a old posting

    ive just completed a BEr on a per 1900 single storey cottage with 94-99 dormer extension...

    it came out as a G rating.. .fair enough..

    suggested upgrade the cottage walls from 2.1 to 0.27 reduces energy value by 1517 kw/hr..

    however...

    suggesting going from 0 - 100% LELs along with new cylinder with 80mm factory insulation RAISES the energy value by 680kw/hr... WTF!!???

    The reason I'm asking is I have a report here and I cant figure out how the kwh/day is being calculated for example a roof.
    Assuming area of 161m2 and assuming mineral wool with a conductivity of 0.04W/mk and an overall U-Value of 0.156 W/m2K the energy savings would be 19.5 kwh. How is he going about calculating the energy savings per day? May seem a stupid question but would appreciate your help as it's wrecking my head!!

    cheers


  • #54
    caesarthechimp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 204 ✭✭caesarthechimp


    The u values are in w/m2/K

    The results are in different units; kwh/m2/year


  • #55
    d'Oracle
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,025 ✭✭✭d'Oracle


    edmund r wrote: »

    The reason I'm asking is I have a report here and I cant figure out how the kwh/day is being calculated for example a roof.
    Assuming area of 161m2 and assuming mineral wool with a conductivity of 0.04W/mk and an overall U-Value of 0.156 W/m2K the energy savings would be 19.5 kwh. How is he going about calculating the energy savings per day? May seem a stupid question but would appreciate your help as it's wrecking my head!!

    cheers

    Hi edmund.

    The only way someone could calculate a kWh/Day would be heavily averaged to the point of irrelevance. It would involve getting the Per annum kWh consumption output from DEAP and dividing it by 365 and subtracting it from a pre altered value.

    The problem is that, as I'm sure you know, one day ain't the same as the next. Frankly it suggests poor understanding of the process involved in DEAP.

    So while this figure will give you an indicative saving, its not a very accurate one.


  • #56
    senordingdong
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,673 ✭✭✭✭senordingdong


    nodenrg wrote: »
    An extra layer of 200mm quilt insulation over the joists laid at right angles will make a difference. As well as Wall2wall's comments consider draught proofing windows and doors, dry lining where practical and introducing a draught lobby or porch if possible, though this must be a minimum of 2 sq.m. Even curtains can make a difference!

    How much would it cost to lay some down in the attic?


  • #57
    sheff the ref
    Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭sheff the ref


    An open fire seems to be the death knell of a high rating in a BER cert.


  • #58
    senordingdong
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,673 ✭✭✭✭senordingdong


    sheff the ref wrote: »
    An open fire seems to be the death knell of a high rating in a BER cert.

    I plugged mine up with a fifteen euro chimney balloon.
    Worth investing in.


  • #59
    MOTM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 412 ✭✭MOTM


    Bear in mind that the chimney baloon doesn't impact the BER rating. It is a temporary restriction (although, yes, while it is in place it will reduce the draft in the chimney).


  • #60
    senordingdong
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,673 ✭✭✭✭senordingdong


    MOTM wrote: »
    Bear in mind that the chimney baloon doesn't impact the BER rating. It is a temporary restriction (although, yes, while it is in place it will reduce the draft in the chimney).

    Really? I would have assumed that stopping the draft would count some way to improving insulation.


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  • #61
    MOTM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 412 ✭✭MOTM


    senordingdong wrote: »
    Really? I would have assumed that stopping the draft would count some way to improving insulation.


    Not if its a temporary blockage (such as a chimney balloon) according to DEAP manual section 2.1 (and its not the insulation it would improve anyway, its the ventilation loss).


  • #62
    sligo camper
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 195 ✭✭sligo camper


    very interesting board...we have a two storey slooping ceiling upstairs. built in 2005
    wasnt as interested in insulation issues then as i bloody am now!! couple of questions
    1, in my innocence, layed down a 200mm insulation into the roof joists (compacted.. i know i know) then covered both with 8 x 4 sheets of ply... the upstairs is freezing.. there is no insulation between the roof joists and the slate above it... Id hate to have to loose the benefit of the dance floor i now have in my attic. do i simply roll out more insulation roll over the 8 x 4 and will it improve the situation

    also how do i improve the insulation in the slopping roof in the bedrooms as i cannot access them from the attic itself.

    did i reas somewhere also that u need at least 300-450 of insulation rolled out to get max benefit?

    thanks


  • #63
    sheff the ref
    Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭sheff the ref


    Under the grant system a lot of people got their unfloored attics done and would originally have had 200mm between the joists. Basically the companies were laying down another 300 to 450mm insulation on top of that again.

    I think the spray on foam under the slates is beneficial too
    sligo camper wrote: »
    very interesting board...we have a two storey slooping ceiling upstairs. built in 2005
    wasnt as interested in insulation issues then as i bloody am now!! couple of questions
    1, in my innocence, layed down a 200mm insulation into the roof joists (compacted.. i know i know) then covered both with 8 x 4 sheets of ply... the upstairs is freezing.. there is no insulation between the roof joists and the slate above it... Id hate to have to loose the benefit of the dance floor i now have in my attic. do i simply roll out more insulation roll over the 8 x 4 and will it improve the situation

    also how do i improve the insulation in the slopping roof in the bedrooms as i cannot access them from the attic itself.

    did i reas somewhere also that u need at least 300-450 of insulation rolled out to get max benefit?

    thanks


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