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3 Way Fridge Not Working

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,890 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    I generally prefer diesel heaters because I already have a big fuel tank I can reload anywhere.
    Fair point ... but again, would require a retro-fit (that makes three now, all taking the vehicle off the road, which is a problem in itself).

    Alternator is standard engine driven one in above references...
    Ah, right. But that doesn't do anything when you're parked in a field for six days, so not really relevant to the current discussion.

    Similarly, for a retro-fit, there's only so much insulation you can pack into the space available; any increase will require a compromise on storage space inside or outside of the fridge, which - in my case - are both non-negotiable.

    The (domestic, compressor) fridge that works for me is declared to use 191 kWh/year, which I assume is based on being housed in a bricks-and-mortar dwelling that tends to remain in the 16-26°C temperature range. That's more likely to be a real-world consumption of an extrapolated 300kWh/an when the appliance is surrounded by air at 30-40°C

    So lets say 6kWh for the week in the field, or about 800Wh in a 24-hour period, of which at least 10 hours are dark. That's ... 30Ah from the battery, 30A from the sun-on-the-roof - does that sound right?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Fair point ... but again, would require a retro-fit (that makes three now, all taking the vehicle off the road, which is a problem in itself).


    Who's counting? The saddest is when yer brand new factory fresh job needs a heating, refrigeration and power production overhaul outtov the gates. Throw ~€5k of obsolete inadequate and inappropriate hardware in the skip that was worth about €1k except is was "designed" for the recreational markets so qualified for a 5x performance exclusive markup.


    And then the time to put it right.


    Ah, right. But that doesn't do anything when you're parked in a field for six days, so not really relevant to the current discussion.

    I do, you do, most don't. You can still turn the engine independently of the wheels when yer desperate although I design to avoid it.

    Similarly, for a retro-fit, there's only so much insulation you can pack into the space available; any increase will require a compromise on storage space inside or outside of the fridge, which - in my case - are both non-negotiable.


    Arah yee've all got small van problems! Think bigger, buy a truck!




    The (domestic, compressor) fridge that works for me is declared to use 191 kWh/year, which I assume is based on being housed in a bricks-and-mortar dwelling that tends to remain in the 16-26°C temperature range. That's more likely to be a real-world consumption of an extrapolated 300kWh/an when the appliance is surrounded by air at 30-40°C

    I'd go the other way retrofitting a domestic to an absorption cabinet you ought to have a huge atmospheric vent and intake. Most house fridges are poked in a corner with completely stifled condenser cooling.




    So lets say 6kWh for the week in the field, or about 800Wh in a 24-hour period, of which at least 10 hours are dark. That's ... 30Ah from the battery, 30A from the sun-on-the-roof - does that sound right?


    First off that sounds like an A-rated fridge.


    Get a more efficient one.


    10027672_energy_label.jpg

    And an inverter with hibernate/load detect function. They Idle about 1.5W and say they're 80% efficient.
    Fridge = 220W per day @ 80% efficient (inverter losses) = 274W + (1.5W x 24hr) = 310Wh per day


    110W of solar will run that fridge most of the year (and it's cheaper to get 300W)
    Assuming zero solar or split charge input and a 200Ah battery...let's say 100Ah disposable after lighting etc.. so let's say about 4 days.


    Two things though zero solar input is highly irregular in a field and if you sort yer split charge out you can run the fridge for a day every 30mins of engine running, but the lower the battery the more charge the alternator will produce so you could get it as low as 20mins per day.


    Obviously, a kWh per year figure is Summer loaded and Winter light which is exactly the same output profile as Solar.


    You can go around in circles with these things. Since I fitted my compressor fridge I've never worried about powering it or had to turn it off except when it was in storage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,890 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    D'y'know, SirLiam, you're a terrible man for trying to fit the circumstances to the solution! :D
    yer brand new factory fresh job needs a heating, refrigeration and power production overhaul outtov the gates. Throw ~€5k of obsolete inadequate and inappropriate hardware in the skip that was worth about €1k except is was "designed" for the recreational markets so qualified for a 5x performance exclusive markup.
    I bought a house and a motorhome at the same time (and for the same price :cool: ) fifteen years ago. The house's heating, refigeration and power has all had to be renewed at a cost of considerably more than 5k, and running costs are considerably higher than a couple of bottles of gas every month (although the house gas bottle does last a longer :pac: ).

    So while I accept that much of what goes into shiny new recreational vehicle is overpriced, as far as mine is concerned, all of it has given good service in that time. Of course, the only "fatal" problem was fridge-related, but that was (still is) a critical flaw in the charge relay - the fridge was doing what it thought right, based on false information. Ancient history now, though.
    You can still turn the engine independently of the wheels when yer desperate although I design to avoid it.
    But us lesser mortals have to work with what has already been designed, and in my field, with neighbours at a distance of +/-1m I'd be thrown out of the field with no right to appeal if I ran a smelly old diesel for twenty minutes. So a solar solution has to be a complete solution, no burning diesel instead of gas as a back-up.
    Arah yee've all got small van problems! Think bigger, buy a truck!
    It's not that small - six adult berths, seven belted seats - and functions perfectly well as a cargo vehicle when required. But changing a perfectly good vehicle, more or less designed to order, to accommodate a different type of fridge is not a reasonable proposition, even if I have a current C-licence.

    First off that sounds like an A-rated fridge.


    Get a more efficient one.
    Again, suggesting a fridge-no-freezer of half the volume of the fridge-freezer that is just about sufficient for my needs is not an appropriate solution. It doesn't matter how many A-stars that Klarstein model has, it's not going to keep my choc ices frozen, so it's actually worse than the Dometic I'd like to replace.
    Assuming zero solar or split charge input and a 200Ah battery...let's say 100Ah disposable after lighting etc.. so let's say about 4 days.

    You can go around in circles with these things. Since I fitted my compressor fridge I've never worried about powering it or had to turn it off except when it was in storage.
    I'm trying to get out of the circle! But working within the real-world constraints of retrofitting into an existing space, my personal requirements in terms of size and style, would you still say that a fridge with a notional consumption of three times your Klarstein example would run happily for two days with a 300W panel supplying 2x110Ah batteries?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    D'y'know, SirLiam, you're a terrible man for trying to fit the circumstances to the solution! biggrin.png




    Maybe. To my mind a motorhome is a mobile installation. Being forced into premature harbour through a lack of resources is a failure of design and most are sold that way.





    D'y'know, SirLiam, you're a terrible man for trying to fit the circumstances to the solution! :D
    would you still say that a fridge with a notional consumption of three times your Klarstein example would run happily for two days with a 300W panel supplying 2x110Ah batteries?


    First off if you're flying 300W you have to go MPPT!


    191/365 = 523Wh p/d @ 80% efficiency = 640Wh + 36Wh quiescent = 676Wh per day.


    300w solar will supply 900Wh to 1.8kWh April to November
    There's ~2kWh of stored power available from 220Ah if they're genuinely rated.


    You oughta be looking at at least 200Wh solar surplus per day with a healthy 2 day reserve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    I've stepped out of the absorption versus compressor fridge debate but let me give my real-life experience of a B2B charger.
    I bought a Stirling B2B 50amp charger over 12 years ago (before solar) to keep my batteries (2X100amp) charged while touring.
    I wired it as per instructions with a new dedicated connection from the engine battery and choose 55mm² cable for the job to more or less eliminate any voltage drop.
    Result:
    After a long night of battery use down to maybe 20% or 25% depth of charge, I get a full recovery to 100% charge after a couple of hours drive and ready for another night of winter off-grid. In such circumstances, my 200watt of solar via a quality MPPT charge controller contributes very little.

    A real-life experience:
    In 2017 we did the winter markets for ten days in The Alsace during which the daytime temperature hovered around 2°C and nighttime below zero. The heating was on 24/7. During the relatively short drives between the town/villages the B2B kept the battery up no problem. As for the gas, we consumed a full 13kg bottle of propane over six days.

    PS. a separate generator or running the engine while stationary is not an option for us due to our social conscience


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you connected the 50mm² from your alternator B+ to you house battery across a contactor you'd get a pretty similar result Niloc. I stopped fitting B2Bs because it's the recommended cable does all the work. I've gotten better results by bypassing the £600 boxes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    If you connected the 50mm² from your alternator B+ to you house battery across a contactor you'd get a pretty similar result Niloc. I stopped fitting B2Bs because it's the recommended cable does all the work. I've gotten better results by bypassing the £600 boxes.

    So what you are basically saying is that a four-stage charging regime (Bulk, Absorption, Float and Equalisation) is of no benefit over a simple alternator charging. Don't B2B units emulate the profile of mains chargers.
    I must have something right as my leisure batteries have lasted on average seven years when most fail after three or four with luck.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Absolutely none Niloc a charger takes ~12hours to run through it's cycles. Most people don't drive that long or that long that often. It's just a bulk charger. You've always been good with batteries. 7 years in a motorhome is not difficult it's less than a coupla hundred cycles. Your solar is doing the maintenance though.

    The fact that people can't seem to get 2 years from them is testament to how bad the chargers and user management is. How many people think a battery monitor isn't necessary? If you wanna pay 5x the rate you can buy li-ion. This has a BMS so while it's not any better other than lighter it is automated so the electronics prevent the user from breaking it. You could use a BMS with lead...I do. It works just as well but it's universally compatible.

    My biggest problem with the B2Bs is the current limit and the price. If I removed your 50A unit I could probably get you 100A with the cable you connected it with.
    Just connect the + input on the + Output terminal while the engine is running and tell me if you get more or less. If you connected alternator to house battery instead of alternator to engine battery to house battery it'd improve further.
    Then you can join myself and Aidan M_M in the don't waste yer money club.

    I have a 120A B2B fitted, ammeter in the dash board and a manual bypass.
    If the altenator is running max output the efficiency is higher without the B2B so less heat more lecky.

    If you have a "smart" alternator all bets are off. Fit a dumb alternator beside it is still a better deal than an box of electronics.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    By the way bulk and absorption are the same thing. Bulk is marketing for saying the charger is trying to get to say 14.4V flat out but can't while delivering max current due to the limitations of electronic design. Absorption is a fancy way of saying now the battery needs less current than the charger output the voltage can be fixed.
    If you put a 100A charger on a 5Ah battery there'd be no bulk stage.

    Float in most cases is conservatively 6 hours too soon and a net-zero current not much difference from an alternator's regulator at net-zero current except a slightly higher voltage and the engine will turn off long before it's an issue.

    EQ most people don't use it and highly unlikely that it's practical do one from an engine anyways.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    So Sir Liamalot, if I understand you correctly what you are saying is that Charles Stirling is nothing better than a snake oil salesman :confused:


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I bet someone is gonna say there's no way €150 of cable & control can beat £600 boxes.


    You can find out yourself with some meters and a process of elimination.

    {Edit} I shoulda said €150 of cable and controls can beat £600 boxes on €90 of cable


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'd add rebadger (with inflated ratings) to the title.

    Exhibit A


    Exhibit B


    That's a woeful inverter by the way. The quiescent is 30W, it sounds like a banshee, the peaks are decidedly flat and the charger efficiency is about 50%


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