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Labour Saving and General Guntering
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pricies so far
:39inch stone fork tines somewhere between 50 and 60 euro
:bushes 15 euro
brackets will be roughly 50
the paddles from rohan engerring in limrick are 120 inc vat and i think carrage will be 20 more
il make the frame and get the holes drilled for bushes and make up that for start then get the brackets on the sort paddles after
if i could get paddles made 42 inches long and 12 inches wide would that work if i got the holes bored and brackets made plus paddles made in same place it might not big as big a bill hopefully
but il need some design on paper or something
new bale handler is 500 €uro
but this is a bale handler for wraped bales ,wraped bale stacker,hay/straw bale handler ,stacker
pallett forks
thats 5 uses plus many more so if i could make it for under 320 which will be tight have loads of galvinised pipes lieing around anyway
bk1991
That look like a handy bale handler you made there. But I just can't figure how could you stack wraped bales with it ? Would it not rip the bale below when ya would go to pull out ?0 -
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I manage fine with this one.
I'm guessing it would be much the same.
bales do need to be collected and stacked fairly lively after wrapping, before they start to flatten out at the bottom.
Actually that reminds me, I know a lad who actually has the very same set up as yourself there and he puts his bales up 3 high with it, all on their flat, it would not be the tidiest looking though stack as the bales do sag in the winter, but I suppose it saves space :cool:0 -
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Fitted crow flaps a few weeks ago. The plastic is stuff you can get to protect hall floors....
Not as heavy as the stuff used in factory made creeps, but it's doing the job at only a fraction of the price
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The 'Daddy' of all bale trailers....
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This is a quick snap of a neighbour who has been proper busy in the workshop.
It's an articulated logging lorry body that he's added a drawbar to and pulls with a JCB Fasctrac. He can bring 24 bales of silage on it and can load it with the grab from the roadside. The grab reaches in over the ditch = no ploughin up the land!0 -
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Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?
Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........
You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:
I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel)
Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.
Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe ..... Happy days 0 -
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Another method is to neatly bend the end of the wire back on itself, leaving a nice rounded tip. This'll push a heck of a long way through hydrodare before the sheer weight and friction of the wire makes it more and more difficult.Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?
Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........
You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:
I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel)
Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.
Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe ..... Happy days
Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth. I'm told that carbon is added to the mix to make it nice and black; carbon, of course, is a conductor.
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Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth.
God I didn't realise that Rovi. Is it the voltage going through it that causes it to break down? Had you the ends of the hydradare bent in a hoop to stop the water getting in?0 -
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i just put my weelbarrow under mine and off i go.0 -
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I just use plastic 200L barrels cut lengthways, I can fire about 6 of them into the back of the jeep, nice and light too. I have two holes cut in the end with a piece of twine threaded through them, piece of insulator tube on the twine for a handle. Them troughs are only scrap!If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.
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Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?
Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........
You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:
I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel)
Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.
Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe ..... Happy days
often did something similar with a vacum and an old plastic shopping bagworks a treat0 -
made a yoke for moving gates for a farmer,he farms by himself so wanted something for moving gates around for herding cows in the yard,when testing etc. it has a piece of angle iron 2ft with a wheel at each end,a small bit of box iron in middle of this to set spud of gate into and two pieces of angle that go straight up from this.small bit of flat welded at back. this is sort of a cradle around gate,simply lift one end of gate into it,gate will lie back on flat,put bolt through front and simply lift other end and push/pull gate. it will also allow the gate to stand up right.simples
:D 0 -
made a yoke for moving gates for a farmer,he farms by himself so wanted something for moving gates around for herding cows in the yard,when testing etc. it has a piece of angle iron 2ft with a wheel at each end,a small bit of box iron in middle of this to set spud of gate into and two pieces of angle that go straight up from this.small bit of flat welded at back. this is sort of a cradle around gate,simply lift one end of gate into it,gate will lie back on flat,put bolt through front and simply lift other end and push/pull gate. it will also allow the gate to stand up right.simples:D
Good idea, any photo?0 -
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Only just getting back to this, sorry for overlooking it!
God I didn't realise that Rovi. Is it the voltage going through it that causes it to break down? Had you the ends of the hydradare bent in a hoop to stop the water getting in?Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth.
For years here in the early days of electric fencers, wire was 'insulated' from the stake with bits of 1/2" hydrodare either slid onto the wire when it was going up, or split along their length and slipped over the wire, and stapled on with conventional staples.
Gaps were bridged either underground with bare wire strung through buried 1/2" hydrodare or overhead with single core insulated domestic wiring.
This 'worked' about as well as anything else at the time, and no-one knew any better anyway.
Over the years, the length of fence grew longer and the fencers evolved from battery units to various 'modern' mains units.
In the early '80s, we embarked on putting the grazing land into a proper 21-day paddocks system (all done with h-frame strainers! :rolleyes:), and all this too was done with hydrodare.
It was a constant battle to keep the fence in order, as any bit of an earth anywhere would drop the current to the point where the fence was ineffective.
Sometime in the early '90s, we got the FRS in to fence around the silage fields and a few of the paddocks.
Our eyes were opened to how a fence could be put up, and on the use of proper materials!:eek::eek::eek:
Besides now having proper insulators and underground cable in the newly fenced sections, we also installed the biggest fencer unit we could get at the time, a Cheta G303. 30 Joules of lightening in a box
Along with the first proper earth system we'd ever installed (10 x 5 foot galvanised rods in a damp patch), this gave us a fence that struck fear into both man and beast!
It also showed up the deficiencies in the old sections of fence!
It blasted through the old hydrodare 'insulators' as if they weren't there, giving us a sparkly light show around the paddocks at night and sound effects that the lads at the ploughing match with their electrocuted potato demonstration would be proud of.
It was comical how bad it was
Now, in fairness, most of the old hydrodare was years (or even decades!) of age and had been exposed to whatever weather the Irish climate had thrown at it over that time, so perhaps we shouldn't have expected too much of it, but even new hydrodare only survived a season or so against the new fencer unit.
I was told at the time that hydrodare contains carbon to make it nice and black, and that this quickly allowed the powerful fencer unit to make its way through it to earth.
Certainly, it all got replaced with modern materials over the following few years and we never had problems with earth leakage to the stakes again.
At this stage, we didn't trust the buried hydrodare either, so we pulled modern high tensile insulated wire through it and it then served merely as conduit.0 -
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