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Child Item

Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Bitten & Hisses

Well done Muckit, tidy job! When I weld, I may as well be throwing toffee at the steel

BeeDI

I saw a bright idea mentioned over on BFF today. Bale unroller, made by converting an old Teagle pto driven concrete mixer. Someone always thinking.:D

josephsoap

bk1991 wrote: »

pricies so far
:39inch stone fork tines somewhere between 50 and 60 euro
:bushes 15 euro
brackets will be roughly 50
the paddles from rohan engerring in limrick are 120 inc vat and i think carrage will be 20 more

il make the frame and get the holes drilled for bushes and make up that for start then get the brackets on the sort paddles after

if i could get paddles made 42 inches long and 12 inches wide would that work if i got the holes bored and brackets made plus paddles made in same place it might not big as big a bill hopefully
but il need some design on paper or something

new bale handler is 500 €uro
but this is a bale handler for wraped bales ,wraped bale stacker,hay/straw bale handler ,stacker
pallett forks

thats 5 uses plus many more so if i could make it for under 320 which will be tight have loads of galvinised pipes lieing around anyway

bk1991

That look like a handy bale handler you made there. But I just can't figure how could you stack wraped bales with it ? Would it not rip the bale below when ya would go to pull out ?

emaherx

He can probably stack 2 high. bottom one on its end, top one on its side.

josephsoap

emaherx wrote: »

He can probably stack 2 high. bottom one on its end, top one on its side.

Would it still not catch the bale at the bottom though ?

emaherx

I manage fine with this one.

I'm guessing it would be much the same.
bales do need to be collected and stacked fairly lively after wrapping, before they start to flatten out at the bottom.

josephsoap

emaherx wrote: »

I manage fine with this one.

I'm guessing it would be much the same.
bales do need to be collected and stacked fairly lively after wrapping, before they start to flatten out at the bottom.

Actually that reminds me, I know a lad who actually has the very same set up as yourself there and he puts his bales up 3 high with it, all on their flat, it would not be the tidiest looking though stack as the bales do sag in the winter, but I suppose it saves space :cool:

quietsailor

josephsoap wrote: »

Actually that reminds me, I know a lad who actually has the very same set up as yourself there and he puts his bales up 3 high with it, all on their flat, it would not be the tidiest looking though stack as the bales do sag in the winter, but I suppose it saves space :cool:

It'll also keep the area of the bale with the most layers of plastic (16 in the centre) upwards so the crows will have less chance of puncturing the plastic when they land

Muckit

When joining pipe to pipe at right angles (ie bars to upright if making a gate) and you don't have a notcher, how do you flatten the ends?

Is it just brut force with a lump hammer?

blue5000

Muckit wrote: »

When joining pipe to pipe at right angles (ie bars to upright if making a gate) and you don't have a notcher, how do you flatten the ends?

Is it just brut force with a lump hammer?

I squeeze them in the vice.

Muckit

Thanks blue! The vice I have isn't the best, will give it a go though

bk1991

Muckit wrote: »

When joining pipe to pipe at right angles (ie bars to upright if making a gate) and you don't have a notcher, how do you flatten the ends?

Is it just brut force with a lump hammer?

Puh on tractor

Muckit

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Fitted crow flaps a few weeks ago. The plastic is stuff you can get to protect hall floors....

Not as heavy as the stuff used in factory made creeps, but it's doing the job at only a fraction of the price

Muckit

The 'Daddy' of all bale trailers....

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This is a quick snap of a neighbour who has been proper busy in the workshop.

It's an articulated logging lorry body that he's added a drawbar to and pulls with a JCB Fasctrac. He can bring 24 bales of silage on it and can load it with the grab from the roadside. The grab reaches in over the ditch = no ploughin up the land!

moy83

I think i see him passing our house alot lately . Its a fine job alright

Muckit

He's selling and delivering them all over the country so you possibly did

dar31

excel sheet for keeping track of fert spreading. keep it in the tractor all the time.

mikeoh

anyone have plan/ideas on making a home made land roller?

Figerty

Cant find the fork in the morning???? Keep it safe?

I took off a gate and found the three prong fork fits nicely..

Muckit

I use a spoon

pakalasa

Figerty wrote: »

Cant find the fork in the morning???? Keep it safe?
I took off a gate and found the three prong fork fits nicely..

Never seen a 3 prong fork before, 2 and 4 only...........:D

Username John

pakalasa wrote: »

Never seen a 3 prong fork before, 2 and 4 only...........:D

Same here...

What kinda place do you live in at all Figerty... tis like some kinda alternate reality...

Figerty

And there I was thinking I had a deprived child hood....Ya never saw a three prong fork?

It's a great yoke for forking hayledge/chopped silage.. you don't get as caught up with a four prong but get better grip than a two prong. Plenty of them available in Clare.

I have four prong as well, in case ye thought I bought because there was 25% off...

MfMan

Figerty wrote: »

And there I was thinking I had a deprived child hood....Ya never saw a three prong fork?

It's a great yoke for forking hayledge/chopped silage.. you don't get as caught up with a four prong but get better grip than a two prong. Plenty of them available in Clare.

I have four prong as well, in case ye thought I bought because there was 25% off...

+1. 3 prongs very handy for shaking out round bales. Also stronger for forking square bales, bit more support.

Muckit

Here's a few pics of a very rough spinning jenny that I hobbled together yesterday evening. Used it today to roll out HT wire. Worked a treat.... no tangled wire

keep going

got a suggestion for any of you with only one tractor with a loader for to load big bags of manure.set up one bay of "QUICKSTAGE"scafolding with the planks just higher than your spreader.put the planks with about a 6 or 8" gap between them and you can double up (one top of the other) for more strenght.then plonk your bag on top of the planks and back your spreader under it.you will be able to slit the bottom through the gap.hope it makes sence

kevthegaff

keep going wrote: »

got a suggestion for any of you with only one tractor with a loader for to load big bags of manure.set up one bay of "QUICKSTAGE"scafolding with the planks just higher than your spreader.put the planks with about a 6 or 8" gap between them and you can double up (one top of the other) for more strenght.then plonk your bag on top of the planks and back your spreader under it.you will be able to slit the bottom through the gap.hope it makes sence

right idea im in the same boat sick of yoking on and off:mad:

Muckit

Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?

Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........

You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:

I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel

)

Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.

Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe .....

Happy days

vanderbadger

Muckit wrote: »

Here's a few pics of a very rough spinning jenny that I hobbled together yesterday evening. Used it today to roll out HT wire. Worked a treat.... no tangled wire

nice bit of work there, very handy item

Rovi

Muckit wrote: »

Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?

Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........

You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:

I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel )

Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.

Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe ..... Happy days

Another method is to neatly bend the end of the wire back on itself, leaving a nice rounded tip. This'll push a heck of a long way through hydrodare before the sheer weight and friction of the wire makes it more and more difficult.

Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth. I'm told that carbon is added to the mix to make it nice and black; carbon, of course, is a conductor.