Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Options
1…8889919394…210

Comments

  • Options
    #2702
    fixXxer
    Registered Users Posts: 6,283 ✭✭✭fixXxer


    Plastik wrote: »
    Wear them with pride.

    I completely get this, but it was more so rust doesn't set in :pac: Maybe rust isn't a thing any more, I'm only on a bike since lockdown 1.0


  • Options
    #2703
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,885 ✭✭✭cletus


    fixXxer wrote: »
    I completely get this, but it was more so rust doesn't set in :pac: Maybe rust isn't a thing any more, I'm only on a bike since lockdown 1.0

    What frame material does your bike have


  • Options
    #2704
    fixXxer
    Registered Users Posts: 6,283 ✭✭✭fixXxer


    cletus wrote: »
    What frame material does your bike have

    6061 aluminium alloy according to the instruction manual.


  • Options
    #2705
    seamus
    Registered Users Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Rust is a thing on certain components but so long as you keep it relatively clean and store it somewhere dry, it's unlikely to become a problem.

    The frame won't rust. Aluminium oxidises in its own special way, but there's no need to seal up scuffs and scrapes.

    If the paint is ever cracked or warped, the frame is goosed. That's all you really need to look out for with Alu.


  • Options
    #2706
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    grogi wrote: »
    Just to answer myself here...

    With the introduction of GRX Shimano increased the chainline with the GRX from 43.5 to 46.9mm to accomodate wider tyres. Typical road FD has only capacity to deal with chainline upto ~45mm (there isn't much more reach on mine from what it is doing now) and with the GRX might not reach far enough and GRX FD will be required. The chainline will be even bigger issue when trying to use MTB chainset.

    It seems the easiest and definately most cost effective option is to go with the FSA Omega Adventure.

    What BB are you currently using?


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2707
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,745 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    seamus wrote: »
    Rust is a thing on certain components but so long as you keep it relatively clean and store it somewhere dry, it's unlikely to become a problem.

    The frame won't rust. Aluminium oxidises in its own special way, but there's no need to seal up scuffs and scrapes.

    If the paint is ever cracked or warped, the frame is goosed. That's all you really need to look out for with Alu.

    My bikes are all steel, but, yes, I've always understood that aluminium oxide doesn't flake like typical iron oxides and it forms a protective layer, so rust isn't an issue.


  • Options
    #2708
    grogi
    Registered Users Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    What BB are you currently using?

    I have threaded frame - was using a SM-BBR60.

    To the available options I'd add:
    - Miche Graff 46/30 chainset - they use the same 24mm spindle design and share ~44mm chainline
    - FSA Tempo Adventure + square taper cartridge
    - Shimano TY501-2 + square taper cartridge - a super cheap and heavy solution ;)


  • Options
    #2709
    woody33
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    How can I tell if my hubs are cup and cone or sealed bearing? Its a ten year old Felt hardtail 21 speed with a freewheel hub. And should I put a few drops of chain oil into the wee gap between wheel and hub, or might it dilute the grease? The hubs seem fine at the moment, I'm thinking preventive maintenance. Thanks for any ideas.


  • Options
    #2710
    jamesbondings
    Registered Users Posts: 2,201 ✭✭✭jamesbondings


    im not sure if here is the best place for this, feel free to move it if so.

    I have been asked about xmas ideas for me and thought i might get some upgrades for the bike. I would like to increase the amount of gears i have. I imagine this is possible?
    If so, could someone advise what I might need to get in order to do the job myself? The bike i have is this - https://www.decathlon.ie/ie_en/rc-100-road-bike-grey-en-s308047.html
    It only has 7 gears and the "hardest" gear is easy enough to maintain. I would like a bit more flexibility. Realistically, i know anything is an upgrade on the above!

    I am a complete novice to maitaining a bike! I mean i can change tyres and fix punctures etc. But i wouldnt even know where to begin with changing and adding gears. What parts might you reccomend? and what tools would be required? Have a fair few tools, but there might be some specific ones ill need to add to the list. I would also like to change th eshifter if thats possible - the thing is a nightmare and i always seem to be sitting on it

    Thanks in advance! If its in the wrong place I am sorry.


  • Options
    #2711
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,885 ✭✭✭cletus


    First thing you need to check is whether the rear wheel has a freehub or a free wheel. I could be wrong, but with 7 gears, I suspect freewheel, which might make it more difficult.

    Actually, I just noticed it has a single ring at the front. To put on a double chain ring you'd need obviously the chain rings, a front derailleur, shifter, cables and cable housing.

    https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/51811/single-to-double-chainset-conversion

    Here's a link with some of the other stuff you may or may not need, depending on the bike itself.

    Note that the parts to do this could run you the same as the cost of your bike new


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2712
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    woody33 wrote: »
    How can I tell if my hubs are cup and cone or sealed bearing? Its a ten year old Felt hardtail 21 speed with a freewheel hub. And should I put a few drops of chain oil into the wee gap between wheel and hub, or might it dilute the grease? The hubs seem fine at the moment, I'm thinking preventive maintenance. Thanks for any ideas.

    If it's a 10-year old bike with 21 gears, and given that you mention a gap, it's most likely to be cup-and-cone hubs, but post a close-up pic and it can be confirmed.

    Oil might help, but a better bet would be to add some grease - Park Tool did a series of hub service vids on YouTube in the last month or so - take a look and see if you want to do it, or let your LBS do it.
    10 years is a good time to do something though, as grease does dry up, and the hubs will be damaged by dried grease (no lubrication).


  • Options
    #2713
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    My issue is a bit tricky to describe as I am far from being a practical person.

    Ultegra R8000 rim brake quick release. They were seizing front and rear on my bike. I decided to disassemble the quick release on both brakes to inspect and clean.

    Upon disassembly I could see that a small, thin plastic ring which sits inside the QR and keeps tension had completely disintegrated and broken due to dirt. I simply removed the plastic ring from both brakes, cleaned and reassembled. The QR is a bit loose now but still works as far as I can tell.

    Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution? I guess I could just try to find 2 similarly sized plastic rings, but I also lost one of the little springs. It seems like a kind of shoddy/corner-cutting design.


  • Options
    #2714
    CormacH94
    Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Anyone here running Condor Poggia Deep Drop Brake Calipers? I think they are rebadged Tektro's from what I have read.

    Replaced the stock Condor brand shoes/pads with Swiss Stop BXP's and still find the braking a bit spongy compared to the Tiagra calipers on the summer bike. Is a loss of power/instant grab from the brakes just part and parcel with deep drops or are the Condor/Tektro deep drops a bit bad in this regard?


  • Options
    #2715
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    North of 32 wrote: »
    My issue is a bit tricky to describe as I am far from being a practical person.

    Ultegra R8000 rim brake quick release. They were seizing front and rear on my bike. I decided to disassemble the quick release on both brakes to inspect and clean.

    Upon disassembly I could see that a small, thin plastic ring which sits inside the QR and keeps tension had completely disintegrated and broken due to dirt. I simply removed the plastic ring from both brakes, cleaned and reassembled. The QR is a bit loose now but still works as far as I can tell.

    Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution? I guess I could just try to find 2 similarly sized plastic rings, but I also lost one of the little springs. It seems like a kind of shoddy/corner-cutting design.

    Take a look here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/BR-R8000/EV-BR-R8000-4251.pdf

    Looks like you should buy part 5: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-ultegra-brr8000-quick-release-assembly-y8ru98010/


  • Options
    #2716
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Take a look here: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/BR-R8000/EV-BR-R8000-4251.pdf

    Looks like you should buy part 5: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-ultegra-brr8000-quick-release-assembly-y8ru98010/


    Brilliant, that's exactly it. Thank you!


  • Options
    #2717
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,516 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    how old are the brakes? just wondering if you could claim it as a warranty call?


  • Options
    #2718
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    how old are the brakes? just wondering if you could claim it as a warranty call?

    Yeah that just crossed my mind as well. I got the bike in April 2019 so I might get in contact with Shimano. As far as I can see the warranty is for 2 years.

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/information/warranty.html


  • Options
    #2719
    Leprechaun77
    Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭Leprechaun77


    My older son has passed his bike on to the smaller fella (7) and I need to put a new set of tyres on. The current tyres are 24 x 1 however these are probably a bit too narrow for the younger lad as he is fairly new to the cycling. I was thinking of a 1.75 tyre however the wheel rim is only 15-16mm which makes me think it may be a bit too wide? Any thoughts or suggestion in this regard? (Plenty of fork clearance)


  • Options
    #2720
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,885 ✭✭✭cletus


    Leprechaun77 wrote: »
    My older son has passed his bike on to the smaller fella (7) and I need to put a new set of tyres on. The current tyres are 24 x 1 however these are probably a bit too narrow for the younger lad as he is fairly new to the cycling. I was thinking of a 1.75 tyre however the wheel rim is only 15-16mm which makes me think it may be a bit too wide? Any thoughts or suggestion in this regard? (Plenty of fork clearance)

    I'd be less concerned about the rim than the space in the fork and stays


  • Options
    #2721
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    24x1 is not a common size on kids MTB-based bikes - what kind of bike is it? If it's a junior racer, then the 24x1 tyres (25-540) are not the same size as 24x1.75 (44-507).


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2722
    Leprechaun77
    Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭Leprechaun77


    Type 17 wrote: »
    24x1 is not a common size on kids MTB-based bikes - what kind of bike is it? If it's a junior racer, then the 24x1 tyres (25-540) are not the same size as 24x1.75 (44-507).

    Bare with me......

    The bike on first glance has the physical appearance of a MTB with flat handlebars etc, however on closer inspection (and a quick google) it appears most similar versions are of a road bike variety. The main differences I see between our one and the road bike version appear to be the handle bars, brake clearance and fork clearance. The narrow wheels do look quite unusual on this type of bike I have to say.

    I suppose what I need to establish is what type/size of wider tyre is safe to fit?


  • Options
    #2723
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Take a look at the current tyre sidewall and, beside the 24 x 1 marking, there will be other numbers in the format xx-xxx - this is the ETRTO measurement (more details here, if you're want the whole story).

    This is the bike/tyre/rim manufacturers' measurement and is the definitive size, because all of the other sizes are a historical mish-mash of metric, imperial, French, British, American, japanese and other measurements.

    Post the ETRTO size and we can work out if wider tyres are available and/or suitable.


  • Options
    #2724
    Leprechaun77
    Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭Leprechaun77


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Take a look at the current tyre sidewall and, beside the 24 x 1 marking, there will be other numbers in the format xx-xxx - this is the ETRTO measurement (more details here, if you're want the whole story).

    This is the bike/tyre/rim manufacturers' measurement and is the definitive size, because all of the other sizes are a historical mish-mash of metric, imperial, French, British, American, japanese and other measurements.

    Post the ETRTO size and we can work out if wider tyres are available and/or suitable.

    Thanks for that. The numbers are 23-540.


  • Options
    #2725
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Leprechaun77 wrote: »
    Thanks for that. The numbers are 23-540.

    Ok, the 540 is the rim diameter in mm, so any tyre you want must have 540 (or 541, which I did see on a search) in the ETRTO size.

    The other number is the tyre width in mm. The 23 on the current tyres is almost the narrowest size available, so if you can find tyres with say 25, 28 or even 30 (if the frame/fork/brakes will take it) in the size, then you'll be onto a winner, but if the three-digit number isn't 540, then they're not going to fit.

    PS: There isn't a huge gain to be had in grip by fitting a tyre that's a few mm wider, but a wider tyre will be a bit more comfortable, and is less likely to suffer from pinch-flat punctures.


  • Options
    #2726
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,219 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Anyone built up a frame / integrated stem and handlebar recently and fitted internal mechanical shifter cables? I’m told it can be done, but you have to use a full length outer cable housing from the shifter all the way down to the front and rear derailleurs? I’m concerned it won’t work due to the sharp turns /in direct cable routing combined with the increase in friction? Any tips/recommendations? ( besides upgrading to di2 that is! :) )


  • Options
    #2727
    woody33
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    Hi, does this look like a cup and cone or a sealed bearing? (A bit grubby, I know.) Thanks...


  • Options
    #2728
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Cup-and-cone. The brown tint of the grease on the silver dust cover is a sign that the grease inside is (also) dried/drying up. Time for a service...


  • Options
    #2729
    woody33
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    I have just checked, it seems to be dried grease all right and not corrosion as i thought. Would a dribble of oil in the gap do any good? At the back I have already failed to remove the freewheel myself (blush), having bought and adapted various tools, so I could probably only service the non-drive side. Hmm I have a large tub of Castrol LM grease which should do.


  • Options
    #2730
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Some dribble-oil (not the thin, aerosol types) would help - grease is basically oil in thickening agents to slow its drying up and/or running out of the required place, so some oil is better than none (obviously, grease is more complex than that, and there are multiple types, to take account of varying loads, temperatures, moisture levels, etc).

    Freewheels are virtually impossible to remove without the right tools - the action of pedalling tightens it onto the hub, so they're almost 100Nm tight.

    You should service the bearings on the drive side, as they're the ones that take all the load when you pedal, and dried grease will kill them quickly enough (pitted cup and cone). Castrol LM (lithium-based) would be fine, once you get the freewheel off.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2731
    woody33
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭woody33


    Previously I had to go to my LBS to get a spoke replaced on the drive side, I might try some chain oil dripped into that side, and re grease the others. The wheels seem to spin ok without wobbling at the moment, but good to know what type bearings they are, Thanks again.


Advertisement