New to cycling - how do people deal with punctures?

magicbastarder · 20-10-2020 1:21pm

someone already mentioned it, but pumping up the tube a few PSI is important here, will reduce the chance of pinching it while wrestling with the tyre.

Wishbone Ash · 20-10-2020 2:04pm

Fian wrote: »

One thing that hasn't been mentioned ...

It was mentioned in post no. 12.

Captain Havoc · 20-10-2020 2:17pm

Biggest two things in my opinion are tyres, I bought some super dupper Continental tyres last time. The second thing is pumping the tyres to around 100psi before every single spin. After that on the road I have a multi-tool, two or three tyre levers, gas pump with two cylinders and two tubes.

Wishbone Ash · 20-10-2020 2:42pm

Question for those who use CO2 only (i.e. don't carry a mini pump) - how do you get a small amount of air into the tube to allow it to take shape before seating the tyre? I've heard lads saying that they use their mouth but I've never been able to do that. Perhaps there's a knack to it?

D13exile · 20-10-2020 3:02pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Question for those who use CO2 only (i.e. don't carry a mini pump) - how do you get a small amount of air into the tube to allow it to take shape before seating the tyre? I've heard lads saying that they use their mouth but I've never been able to do that. Perhaps there's a knack to it?

And to add to this question, how do you know when there's enough CO2 gone into the tube? Or do you just shoot the whole cartridge load into it? Any danger of the tube bursting? Thinking about getting a CO2 inflator as my mini pump never gets the tube back up to a decent pressure.

Wishbone Ash · 20-10-2020 3:07pm

D13exile wrote: »

And to add to this question, how do you know when there's enough CO2 gone into the tube? Or do you just shoot the whole cartridge load into it? Any danger of the tube bursting? Thinking about getting a CO2 inflator as my mini pump never gets the tube back up to a decent pressure.

I've only gave it a blast for a second or so and that was usually as hard a track pump would give it.

(I've never found out how much excess is in the cartridge and, I haven't used one for several years now so I'm a bit rusty).

ED E · 20-10-2020 6:38pm

D13exile wrote: »

And to add to this question, how do you know when there's enough CO2 gone into the tube? Or do you just shoot the whole cartridge load into it? Any danger of the tube bursting? Thinking about getting a CO2 inflator as my mini pump never gets the tube back up to a decent pressure.

The cartridge fills a road tyre properly when it equalizes, around 110PSI.

A good inflator lets you release a small flow first.

20-10-2020 9:52pm

Am I the only one whose eyes are watering at the talk of 110/120 psi? I’d be worried the fillings will fall out of my teeth at that pressure. I pump my 28mm tyres to 80 psi and it works fine.

I quite often fix the puncture at the side of the road as well, if it isn’t too bad. If you can locate the puncture easily, you can do it without taking the wheel off.

But then, I roll my arm warmers down to my wrists at times as well.

Weepsie · 20-10-2020 10:06pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Question for those who use CO2 only (i.e. don't carry a mini pump) - how do you get a small amount of air into the tube to allow it to take shape before seating the tyre? I've heard lads saying that they use their mouth but I've never been able to do that. Perhaps there's a knack to it?

My co2 inflater is a minipump

07Lapierre · 20-10-2020 10:15pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Question for those who use CO2 only (i.e. don't carry a mini pump) - how do you get a small amount of air into the tube to allow it to take shape before seating the tyre? I've heard lads saying that they use their mouth but I've never been able to do that. Perhaps there's a knack to it?

The inflators has a valve, so once you pull it off the valve, it will close the valve. So to inflate the tube a small amount, push the inflator onto the valve and remove it almost immediately. Then once you install the tube and tyre, push the inflator onto the valve and hold it there until the tyre is hard.

BBB also do an inflator that has a regulator valve. Once you attaché the valve, you turn the knob and you can control the flow of air into the tube.

Wishbone Ash · 20-10-2020 11:10pm

Aegir wrote: »

Am I the only one whose eyes are watering at the talk of 110/120 psi? I’d be worried the fillings will fall out of my teeth at that pressure. I pump my 28mm tyres to 80 psi and it works fine.....

You're not comparing like with like. 28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - 23mm tyres usually need higher pressure to prevent pinch flats.

21-10-2020 8:19am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

You're not comparing like with like. 28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - 23mm tyres usually need higher pressure to prevent pinch flats.

Which is why I swapped my 23mm tyres for 28s

It’s an important point though, especially as it seems new bikes rarely have 23mm tyres now.

Effects · 21-10-2020 8:49am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - .

I pump my 28s up to 90psi. More so out of habit as that's how I ran my 25s.

D13exile · 21-10-2020 9:45am

Tyre pressure is also dependent on the cyclist's weight. While I've lost 10kgs this year, I'm still heavier (88kgs) than most cyclists and so I keep my tyres at 100psi on the front and 110psi on the rear. Any less than that and I think I'd be risking a pinch flat.

growleaves · 21-10-2020 10:00am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

....and under no circumstances should the bike be placed upside down during these procedures.

Why, because it might damage the bicycle?

07Lapierre · 21-10-2020 10:05am

growleaves wrote: »

Why, because it might damage the bicycle?

See post #41 and for counter argument post #42

ED E · 21-10-2020 10:09am

Aegir wrote: »

Am I the only one whose eyes are watering at the talk of 110/120 psi? I’d be worried the fillings will fall out of my teeth at that pressure. I pump my 28mm tyres to 80 psi and it works fine.

I quite often fix the puncture at the side of the road as well, if it isn’t too bad. If you can locate the puncture easily, you can do it without taking the wheel off.

But then, I roll my arm warmers down to my wrists at times as well.

Larger tyre, lower pressure. If you inflate 36mms you'll probably only get 60 but that'd be enough.

The cartridges were never designed for this purpose but it's a handy quirk that they have pretty much the perfect liquid volume.

I'm 88KG at the moment and pump to about 105PSI on 25mm armoured tyres. C02 will seep out quick enough so they won't be over pressure for long.

ED E · 21-10-2020 10:11am

07Lapierre wrote: »

The inflators has a valve, so once you pull it off the valve, it will close the valve. So to inflate the tube a small amount, push the inflator onto the valve and remove it almost immediately. Then once you install the tube and tyre, push the inflator onto the valve and hold it there until the tyre is hard.

BBB also do an inflator that has a regulator valve. Once you attaché the valve, you turn the knob and you can control the flow of air into the tube.

Don't use push ons. People F up this operation all the time and loose 30% to atmosphere. Screw ons are 100x better. Be aware of frozen inner valves.

magicbastarder · 21-10-2020 10:12am

i pump to 80psi, am about 75kg. 25mm tyres.

07Lapierre · 21-10-2020 10:17am

ED E wrote: »

Don't use push ons. People F up this operation all the time and loose 30% to atmosphere. Screw ons are 100x better. Be aware of frozen inner valves.

Don't i know it!...That's why i always carry a mini pump!

Thelonious Monk · 21-10-2020 10:17am

I've never used a road bike but are their tyres more likely to puncture than commuter type bikes? I've done 1000s of kms on my hybrid type thing and never had a puncture on schwalbe tyres.

D13exile · 21-10-2020 11:45am

Thelonious Monk wrote: »

I've never used a road bike but are their tyres more likely to puncture than commuter type bikes? I've done 1000s of kms on my hybrid type thing and never had a puncture on schwalbe tyres.

And by Murphy's law No.1, you are now duty bound to puncture the next time you venture forth!!!:D

Idleater · 21-10-2020 11:50am

D13exile wrote: »

And by Murphy's law No.1, you are now duty bound to puncture the next time you venture forth!!!:D

I was going to reply to that post with "now you've done it"

Does the old adage of "punctures come in threes" still apply these days?

brownian · 22-10-2020 5:14pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

See post #41 and for counter argument post #42

I did get a plausible answer elsewhere. There was a generation of shifters ('brifters', as was) where a cable came out the top of the shifter, in a graceful arc. Something like an Ibex horn. Naturally, setting your bike down on this would do damage.

Since then, it's basically an affectation, unless there is risk of saddle or bars getting scuffed (so, turn your bike upside down on grasss, or carpet, or take your jersey and shorts off, and use them to protect the bike...).

Wishbone Ash · 22-10-2020 6:09pm

brownian wrote: »

.... it's basically an affectation, unless there is risk of saddle or bars getting scuffed (so, turn your bike upside down on grasss, or carpet, or take your jersey and shorts off, and use them to protect the bike...).

I wouldn't describe it as an affectation if, like me, you just find it much simpler to remove a wheel with the bike the right way up. Why go to the bother of trying to protect saddle and hoods when there's no need for them to be in contact with the ground in the first place?

Idleater · 22-10-2020 6:19pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I wouldn't describe it as an affectation if, like me, you just find it much simpler to remove a wheel with the bike the right way up.

I've no issue with the wheel removal, it's the fixing of the puncture at the side of the road that is awkward holding the bike aloft and upright.

KevRossi · 22-10-2020 6:23pm

I just have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on all my bikes. Two punctures in 14 years of using them and over 60,000 Km.

Weepsie · 22-10-2020 6:49pm

Only puncture I got with my marathons was a massive shard of glass. I do partially blame them for a fractured elbow though

07Lapierre · 22-10-2020 7:28pm

Idleater wrote: »

I've no issue with the wheel removal, it's the fixing of the puncture at the side of the road that is awkward holding the bike aloft and upright.

Just replace the tube? Fix the puncture when you get home.

wheelo01 · 22-10-2020 7:38pm

Weepsie wrote: »

Only puncture I got with my marathons was a massive shard of glass. I do partially blame them for a fractured elbow though

KevRossi wrote: »

I just have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on all my bikes. Two punctures in 14 years of using them and over 60,000 Km.

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

Wishbone Ash · 22-10-2020 7:49pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

The Marathon Plus are heavy and don't roll as well as 'normal' tyres in my experience. Ideal for commuting but not so sure about long rides. You need good clearance for them the narrowest 700x25 is more like a 700x32 in actual width.

Their grip isn't the best but I'd rate it higher than Gators which I always found very skittish.

Weepsie · 22-10-2020 9:39pm

Yeah, they're a bit dead to ride on to be honest. I've done long rides on them, but felt like I was doing a bit more work than I liked.

A near perfect commuting tyre though , it's why they're used in Dublin bikes and such

Idleater · 22-10-2020 9:47pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Just replace the tube? Fix the puncture when you get home.

But the bike has to be placed somewhere while replacing the tube. Not upside down apparently. I've seen suggestions of having someone else hold it, and hang it from a branch.

07Lapierre · 22-10-2020 9:58pm

Idleater wrote: »

But the bike has to be placed somewhere while replacing the tube. Not upside down apparently. I've seen suggestions of having someone else hold it, and hang it from a branch.

And? I lean the bike agains a wall, against a hedge, a tree, there's always someone or something to hold/lean the bike against.once you place the bike down carefully, you won't damage it. The front tyre, the (already dirty) chain are the only parts of the bike that touch the ground.

Idleater · 22-10-2020 10:14pm

Grand, so it's chain and derailleur on the ground vs saddle and bar tape. I'm assuming gentle placement and handling in both cases.

07Lapierre · 22-10-2020 10:17pm

Idleater wrote: »

Grand, so it's chain and derailleur on the ground vs saddle and bar tape. I'm assuming gentle placement and handling in both cases.

Nope..chain and tyre.

crosstownk · 22-10-2020 10:29pm

Over 35 years ago, when I was I young lad, I couldn't afford fancy things like work stands so I always worked on my bikes by turning them upside down. So much so that using a work stand nowadays can be sometimes confusing because everything is the wrong way round.

I still turn my bikes upside down to work on them. None of my bikes have any damage or scratches on hoods, saddle or anywhere else from being turned upside down. But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands.

Do whatever is most comfortable and easiest for you - just be careful. There's no right or wrong way 'rule'.

KevRossi · 22-10-2020 10:30pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

I have them on my commuting/touring bike which is a Cube One Hybrid E-bike. Excellent tyre all round, puncture and pinch proof and they seem to add a bit more to the suspension in the potholes. They are 700x47C and are excellent in the wet. No puncture or accident yet.

I also have the 700x25's on the road bike. They need a bot more effort than other tyres but I'm happy for that trade off against no punctures and more grip. I'm not a fast cyclist anyway and I go out at the weekend for exercise and enjoyment. If you're looking to beat Strava times then get something else, though the Schwalbe would probably be better for training.

07Lapierre · 22-10-2020 10:46pm

crosstownk wrote: »

But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands.

Do whatever is most comfortable and easiest for you - just be careful. There's no right or wrong way 'rule'.

Agree...I hate those workstands that clamp the seatpost.

I use one of these: https://www.mantel.com/ie/feedback-sprint-work-stand

(Not this exact one)

Wishbone Ash · 22-10-2020 11:09pm

crosstownk wrote: »

...But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands....

Schoolboy error there crosstownk! Would you not wrap something around the seatpost before clamping it? I use a section of old tube.

Your post conjors up images of my youth trying to fix bikes without the proper tools (money was scarce) or sneaking stuff from the saddle bag of my oul lad's bike and praying he wouldn't have a puncture going to work before I got the chance to replace it.

Wishbone Ash · 22-10-2020 11:32pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

...Your post conjors up images of my youth trying to fix bikes without the proper tools (money was scarce)...

The days when your tookit was limited to.....

crosstownk · 23-10-2020 10:47pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Schoolboy error there crosstownk! Would you not wrap something around the seatpost before clamping it? I use a section of old tube.

Yep. I should use the old tube - or maybe I should buy a better work stand.

Still though, it feels more natural to simply flip the bike upside down - so that's what I do. Old dog, new tricks and all that. :pac:

crosstownk · 23-10-2020 10:52pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

The days when your tookit was limited to.....

I have one these in the shed. I keep it as a sort of antique.

I think mine is a Raleigh tool.

23-10-2020 10:59pm

Yeah me too!!!! Must have came with my first bike I think which would have been a BMX.

What would you call it ? It's multi spanner or vintage multi tool?

Hamsterchops · 24-10-2020 11:06am

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

The days when your tookit was limited to.....

I still have one, I think we used to call it a bone spanner back in the day.

07Lapierre · 24-10-2020 10:47pm

Hamsterchops wrote: »

I still have one, I think we used to call it a bone spanner back in the day.

You can still buy them (seen them in Halfords today)

Persius · 24-10-2020 11:34pm

I use Schwalbe Marathon plus 35c on my commuter/tourer. Haven't got a puncture in over 10 years.

I've been using Schwalbe Durano plus 25c on my road bike for about 4 years now. Haven't got a puncture on them either. Always pump up to about 100 PSI, even though I'm light. I find the grip excellent for cornering. Much better than the Bontrager stock tyres that came with my roadbike. I'm sure they're a bit slower than the race tyres. But happy to pay that price for puncture resistance and cornering capability on greasy roads.

Wishbone Ash · 25-10-2020 12:01am

Persius wrote: »

....I've been using Schwalbe Durano plus 25c on my road bike for about 4 years now. Haven't got a puncture on them either. Always pump up to about 100 PSI, even though I'm light. I find the grip excellent for cornering.....

I use Durano Plus also on 2 of my bikes. They are excellent for 'normal' puncture protection but, with excessive wear, their weak point is that the rim of the tyre seperates from the rest of the tyre usually in a 'blow out'. That said, it only happens when the tyre is at the end of it's life.

As for grip, I'd have to disagree with you. Although I use them, there are lots of other brands out there with much better grip. On club rides in wet conditions, my colleagues on Contis will corner much faster than me.

firemansam4 · 13-11-2020 2:34pm

Just to update on this thread....

I've had my road bike now just over 2 weeks, its a Forme longcliffe 2.
I took the advice given on this thread and got 2 spare inner tubes and a few tools ect and keep them in a pack on my bike. Also invested in a track pump and keeping the tyre pressures up to about 100 psi.

Never got around to practicing changing a tube at home yet and low and behold I was out for a 40km cycle yesterday and got my first puncture....

But I was able to get the wheel off and change the tube OK, took advice about pumping tube up slightly first and it worked well.
I found it a bit harder than what I had done before on mountain bikes, but it went OK, got the wheel back on and got back home OK.

I guess the only thing I'm concerned about now is why I got a puncture so quickly only 2 weeks into using the bike, I'm hoping I'm just unlucky in that respect.

07Lapierre · 13-11-2020 2:37pm

firemansam4 wrote: »

Just to update on this thread....

I've had my road bike now just over 2 weeks, its a Forme longcliffe 2.
I took the advice given on this thread and got 2 spare inner tubes and a few tools ect and keep them in a pack on my bike. Also invested in a track pump and keeping the tyre pressures up to about 100 psi.

Never got around to practicing changing a tube at home yet and low and behold I was out for a 40km cycle yesterday and got my first puncture....

But I was able to get the wheel off and change the tube OK, took advice about pumping tube up slightly first and it worked well.
I found it a bit harder than what I had done before on mountain bikes, but it went OK, got the wheel back on and got back home OK.

I guess the only thing I'm concerned about now is why I got a puncture so quickly only 2 weeks into using the bike, I'm hoping I'm just unlucky in that respect.

Did you check the tyre for the cause of the puncture?

New to cycling - how do people deal with punctures?

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