New to cycling - how do people deal with punctures?

firemansam4

I've just started getting into cycling again (like many others it seems)

I am overweight and just starting out easy for now. I have a cheap hybrid bike that I have been going out on country roads on (I live in Donegal)

Been going a little bit further since I started a few weeks back, maybe about 22, 23km now.
I will soon have a roadbike (birthday gift from the wife) and hopefully will be able to build up and try going further distances on it.

One thing that I have wondered about is what I would do if I get a puncture when I'm a long distance from my house? Should I carry a spare tube incase? I'm really a newbie so don't know much at all really.

Any other advice for starting out more than welcome as well 🙂

Idleater

Yeah, it's a good idea to be able to replace a tube at the side of the road.

What I suggest is you buy a couple of tubes for your bike and practice now at home once or twice.

Better that than to have to figure it out on a cold day in the rain.

ratracer

firemansam4 wrote: »

I've just started getting into cycling again (like many others it seems)

I am overweight and just starting out easy for now. I have a cheap hybrid bike that I have been going out on country roads on (I live in Donegal)

Been going a little bit further since I started a few weeks back, maybe about 22, 23km now.
I will soon have a roadbike (birthday gift from the wife) and hopefully will be able to build up and try going further distances on it.

One thing that I have wondered about is what I would do if I get a puncture when I'm a long distance from my house? Should I carry a spare tube incase? I'm really a newbie so don't know much at all really.

Any other advice for starting out more than welcome as well 🙂

Things to carry in your jersey pocket: Spare tube (or two), 2x tyre levers, pump. Fixing a puncture is a simple matter, just practice taking your wheel in and off. I’m assuming your bike will have quick release axles, so won’t need other tools.
YouTube is your friend here, look up GCN for their bike repairs/ service clips!

Happy cycling, not the best time of year for it, get a good set of lights also.

ED E

Learn to use a C02 inflator at home, don't try it first time on the roadside.

Stone Deaf 4evr

firemansam4 wrote: »

I've just started getting into cycling again (like many others it seems)

I am overweight and just starting out easy for now. I have a cheap hybrid bike that I have been going out on country roads on (I live in Donegal)

Been going a little bit further since I started a few weeks back, maybe about 22, 23km now.
I will soon have a roadbike (birthday gift from the wife) and hopefully will be able to build up and try going further distances on it.

One thing that I have wondered about is what I would do if I get a puncture when I'm a long distance from my house? Should I carry a spare tube incase? I'm really a newbie so don't know much at all really.

Any other advice for starting out more than welcome as well ��

The 2 most important bits of kit you should never ever ever leave home without........

your phone, and a few bob.

Slasher

ratracer wrote: »

Things to carry in your jersey pocket: Spare tube (or two), 2x tyre levers, pump.

I suggest carrying disposable surgical gloves - keeps your hands clean while you deal with the puncture. You can buy them on Amazon or on some hardware shops.

brownian

A third tyre lever adds a lot of extra fun (well, less pain) for nearly zero investment

Wishbone Ash

brownian wrote: »

A third tyre lever adds a lot of extra fun (well, less pain) for nearly zero investment

...or just use the handles of the QR skewers if you have no levers.

magicbastarder

ratracer wrote: »

Things to carry in your jersey pocket

you can also get a saddlebag which would hold these, or if you've a spare bottlecage, a spares bottle.

Stone Deaf 4evr

magicbastarder wrote: »

you can also get a saddlebag which would hold these, or if you've a spare bottlecage, a spares bottle.

or, if you're like a lad who comes out with me a fair bit, bring absolutely none of those bits, and rely on the other lads to have them for you.

:mad:

magicbastarder

he sounds like he has the best idea. porters.

Seaswimmer

Prevention is better than cure.

If you haven't already got one then get a track pump. This is a pump with a pressure gauge that you leave at home and inflate your tyres regularly with. I am guessing with a hybrid you want to be looking at about 85 to 90 psi but it should be written on the side of the tyre what pressure you should pump to.
Every so often check the tyres for bits of embedded glass and other debris. Remove them with the point of a knife.
Under inflated tyres are one of the main causes of punctures..

patspost

+1 on the track pump, keep your tyres well inflated.

Carry a couple of spare tubes and the ability to replace one.

07Lapierre

Don’t wait till you get a puncture on the side of the road. It’s no fun trying to figure out how to replace a tube while standing on the side of the road in the rain and when it’s dark.
Get a spare tube and Head out to the garage and replace the tube in the rear wheel. Remove the wheels, use tyre levers to unseat one side of the tyre, replace the inner tune, refit the tyre (using your hands only) reinflate the tyre and finally refit the wheel to the bike. Practice using Co canisters and a mini-pump.

secman

Before taking back wheel off, click the chain across to the small cog, handler when putting it back on .

loyatemu

secman wrote: »

Before taking back wheel off, click the chain across to the small cog, handler when putting it back on .

also, put a small amount of air into the new tube before fitting it into the tyre, makes it easier to handle and position than a completely flat tube.

Wishbone Ash

....and under no circumstances should the bike be placed upside down during these procedures.

secman

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

....and under no circumstances should the bike be placed upside down during these procedures.

Ah ......... Guilty as charged.... do get "looks" ftom the lads but its my bike and i don't phaff around when its upside down

firemansam4

Wow thanks for all the reply and tips.
I posted this in the right place anyway.

Well I'll get my road bike in about 2 weeks. It has the quick release wheels, it has a pump and lights with it already. Although I'm not sure how accurate the pressure gauge is on the pump.

I've repaired and replaced tubes on mountain bikes and my kids bikes in the past but never on a road bike,this will be my first.

I will have to get a couple of tubes, and try changing it and see how I get on. The co2 canisters sound like a good idea as well.

Seth Brundle

Seaswimmer wrote: »

Prevention is better than cure.

If you haven't already got one then get a track pump. This is a pump with a pressure gauge that you leave at home and inflate your tyres regularly with. I am guessing with a hybrid you want to be looking at about 85 to 90 psi but it should be written on the side of the tyre what pressure you should pump to.
Every so often check the tyres for bits of embedded glass and other debris. Remove them with the point of a knife.
Under inflated tyres are one of the main causes of punctures..

IIRC a hybrid is about 40 to 70psi, a road bike would be 80 to 120psi.

joe40

Does the choice of tyre make much of a difference to punctures. Are some more puncture resistant than others?

dublin49

have fixed punctures on cycles but i always struggle to re align the brakes.any tips would be great.

ED E

joe40 wrote: »

Does the choice of tyre make much of a difference to punctures. Are some more puncture resistant than others?

Huge.

Limpy

What ever you don't go on the path to safely change your tire, or you might find a thread started about you.

a148pro

ED E wrote: »

Huge.

Yes, ask your bike shop for puncture resistant ones. They will probably be a bit slower and more expensive, but probably worth it. However, your primary line of defence is pumped up tires.

If the money matters to you then just pump your ones up to the max or close to it, learn how to change them (bear in mind the back one will be slightly different to the front in terms of getting the wheel back on the chain), though you prob know this already from other bikes, and see how you get on. If you don't get punctures prob no need to shell out on puncture proof tires?

Personally, I'm very puncture averse - hate the hassle. So I ride my tires more inflated than many would. Have to say I very rarely get punctures, even on really delicate tires, save for one time when I experimented with lower pressure.

brownian

Can someone explain why it's a no-no to turn your bike upside down....and how to change a back-wheel puncture without doing so? I'm slow to balance my bike on the rear derailleur? Or is this a 'rule' like wearing socks the right length and never pulling your arm warmers down to your wrists without taking them off entirely?

Wishbone Ash

brownian wrote: »

Can someone explain why it's a no-no to turn your bike upside down....and how to change a back-wheel puncture without doing so? I'm slow to balance my bike on the rear derailleur? Or is this a 'rule' like wearing socks the right length and never pulling your arm warmers down to your wrists without taking them off entirely?

Do you turn your car upside down when changing a wheel?

secman

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Do you turn your car upside down when changing a wheel?

Would if i could..

Effects

Stone Deaf 4evr wrote: »

or, if you're like a lad who comes out with me a fair bit, bring absolutely none of those bits, and rely on the other lads to have them for you.

I cycle with a guy that carries two CO2 canisters, but no inflator attachment. So no use whatsoever. But then he also doesn't bring food, and I usually have to feed him.
I wouldn't feed him on the last spin and he hasn't been out since!

magicbastarder

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Do you turn your car upside down when changing a wheel?

if you get out of your car and walk away from it, does it fall over unless you lean it against a fence or a wall?

brownian

So...it's a sin, but everyone does it, and feels like the right thing to do?

a148pro

brownian wrote: »

Can someone explain why it's a no-no to turn your bike upside down....and how to change a back-wheel puncture without doing so? I'm slow to balance my bike on the rear derailleur? Or is this a 'rule' like wearing socks the right length and never pulling your arm warmers down to your wrists without taking them off entirely?

Genuinely interested in the answer to this? Is there any detriment to the bike?

Thargor

Yeah wondering that aswell, is it bad for disk brakes?

Pythagorean

Nobody has mentioned stuff known as "Slime", I think. It's a green goo that you put in the tube ,and it seals the puncture as soon as it it happens. It does work, thankfully punctures are rare enough nowadays. If you think being stuck far from home on a bicycle with a flat tyre is bad, try it with a motorcycle !!!

riclad

If its a back wheel I turn the bike upside down it does no harm . You might want to remove front lights if they are on the handlebar.
Carry a tube, and a puncture repair kit,2 metal tools to remove the tyres.
Spanner to take off the wheel
Look on YouTube how to fix a puncture .
or change a tube.

magicbastarder

Thargor wrote: »

Yeah wondering that aswell, is it bad for disk brakes?

there's some chatter (after a quick google) that it could potentially let air in, and equal amounts of 'if your brakes let air in that easily you've got issues before the puncture happened'.

Wishbone Ash

brownian wrote: »

So...it's a sin, but everyone does it, and feels like the right thing to do?

Everyone? I've never done it and, in many club rides, I've only seen it done a handful of times (usually by the same person).

It most definitely does not feel like the right thing to do. Everything is upside down and back to front, it causes scuffs to hoods and saddle, damage to garmin, lights etc., water bottles fall out and the wheel often doesnt 'seat' properly.

secman

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Everyone? I've never done it and, in many club rides, I've only seen it done a handful of times (usually by the same person).

It most definitely does not feel like the right thing to do. Everything is upside down and back to front, it causes scuffs to hoods and saddle, damage to garmin, lights etc., water bottles fall out and the wheel often doesnt 'seat' properly.

Those people are obviously doing it wrong WA, if placed carefully it wont scuff and its perfectly balanced, sitting the wheel is a doddle, proper way up, how do you balance it, possible to scuff or damage the RD if it falls over ?
Hoods keep lights and Garmin away from the ground when placed up side down carefully.
Whatever way works for you is the correct way.

07Lapierre

brownian wrote: »

Can someone explain why it's a no-no to turn your bike upside down....and how to change a back-wheel puncture without doing so? I'm slow to balance my bike on the rear derailleur? Or is this a 'rule' like wearing socks the right length and never pulling your arm warmers down to your wrists without taking them off entirely?

1: your saddle will get covered in grit/dirt
2: your shifters (assuming we’re talking about a road bike) will get covered in dirt/grit
3: if you have a Garmin/ phone on your bars, if you for get to remove it, you’ll damage it.
4: the chain will come off the chainring and get tangled.. resulting oily hands as you try to untangle it.
5: it’s unnecessary and it’s easier to remove/refit wheels when the bike is upright.

If Si can do it... you can do it!
https://youtu.be/2pnbJ64zvME

steamsey

07Lapierre wrote: »

1: your saddle will get covered in grit/dirt
2: your shifters (assuming we’re talking about a road bike) will get covered in dirt/grit
3: if you have a Garmin/ phone on your bars, if you for get to remove it, you’ll damage it.
4: the chain will come off the chainring and get tangled.. resulting oily hands as you try to untangle it.
5: it’s unnecessary and it’s easier to remove/refit wheels when the bike is upright.

If Si can do it... you can do it!
https://youtu.be/2pnbJ64zvME

1. It's easy enough to protect the saddle - throw something underneath it if there's a worry about it
2. Shifters ditto
3. Don't forget to remove
4. Maybe, but not end of the world. Don't see why chain would come off if you're careful but it could
5. Far easier and quicker to remove upside down IMO

The big minus for upright is where do you put your bike when the wheel is off? You have to be very careful of chainring and especially rear mech.

Once, I left a bike with cheap hydraulic brakes upside down overnight, air got in and had to bleed fully. Once though.

Leaving a bike with good brakes upside down for the 10 mins it takes to patch puncture, or 5 mins to throw in new tube should not let air in but sure anything's possible.

Whatever works for you is the right answer here in terms of upright or upside down

On tyres - Schwalbe do hard rolling puncture resistant tyres that served me well for thousands of km's with no punctures for 3 years.

mewso

I recently switched from Hybrid to Racer (I'm old...ok road bike) and while I could change a tube easily enough on the hybrid I couldn't for the life of me get it done on the new road bike. Took it to Halfords and the guy there took ages, puncturing the first tube he tried to put in and after a huge effort finally got it in with the second tube attempt. All the while I was watching this thinking how the heck am I supposed to get this done on the side of the road? (Conti Ultra Sport 2 , 28-622, tyres by the way). Phone and wallet it is.

Edit to ask would people recommend an easier tyre (these seem to be very good tyres but a very tight tube fit) to switch to?

Effects

Pythagorean wrote: »

Nobody has mentioned stuff known as "Slime", I think. It's a green goo that you put in the tube

Used it once back in 1990. It was terrible back then.

I've got tubeless setup on one of my bikes, works well for the most part, but it's also given me some hassles.

steamsey

mewso wrote: »

Edit to ask would people recommend an easier tyre (these seem to be very good tyres but a very tight tube fit) to switch to?

I don't think there is a particular road tyre that is going to be obviously so much easier to remove that it's worth switching to it.

My advice is get some really good tyre levers. You can get reinforced ones. Fully deflated, push the tyre sideways off the rim until you can get a lever in there. Spit comes into play to lube up the lever so you can pull it towards you, along the rim and hopefully unseat the tyre. Is easier if the tube is fecked and you don't care about it as you can go at it rough. It can be done with any tyre, pretty quickly. Always carry at least 2 tyre levers as 1) you might need two to get the tyre back on and 2) in case one does break. Re-seating tyre can be the hardest part and can require a bit of force.

Article here might help - https://cyclingtips.com/2017/12/tips-for-installing-removing-impossibly-tight-tyres/

Fian

One thing that hasn't been mentioned and that is somewhat counter-intuitive:

If you are overweight (me too btw) you need MORE pressure in your tyres, not less. Pump them hard, to as much as the tyres can handle. Which should be 120psi or so on a road bike, much less on a mountain bike. also pump them up frequently - I keep mine at 110 - 120 and check them weekly before any long ride. Not that long rides will be a thing for the next 6 weeks

Many punctures are caused be under-inflated tubes, this can allow the wheel rims to pinch the tubes and puncture them. The heavier the rider the more pressure is required to prevent this. It is not like a balloon where over-inflation bursts it. Well you can go too far but if you stay within tyre limits you are fine. Tyre limits are written on the sidewall of the tyres.

Effects

mewso wrote: »

Edit to ask would people recommend an easier tyre (these seem to be very good tyres but a very tight tube fit) to switch to?

You could switch to a tyre that has less chance of getting a puncture.

magicbastarder

secman wrote: »

Hoods keep lights and Garmin away from the ground when placed up side down carefully.

very much depends on what angle you have the hoods at, and how big the lights are.

i suspect the OP has gotten way more information that they expected when they started the thread.

byrnem31

Get hard plastic tyre levers too as metal will mark the wheels.
Halford sell them for 4 quid or that.

mewso

steamsey wrote: »

I don't think there is a particular road tyre that is going to be obviously so much easier to remove that it's worth switching to it.

My advice is get some really good tyre levers. You can get reinforced ones. Fully deflated, push the tyre sideways off the rim until you can get a lever in there. Spit comes into play to lube up the lever so you can pull it towards you, along the rim and hopefully unseat the tyre. Is easier if the tube is fecked and you don't care about it as you can go at it rough. It can be done with any tyre, pretty quickly. Always carry at least 2 tyre levers as 1) you might need two to get the tyre back on and 2) in case one does break. Re-seating tyre can be the hardest part and can require a bit of force.

Article here might help - https://cyclingtips.com/2017/12/tips-for-installing-removing-impossibly-tight-tyres/

Thanks steamsey but while it was difficult to get the tube out and tyre off I did manage it in the end and it was getting it back on was the real problem. Tyre and tube sit very close together so there is a big danger of damaging the tube while trying to lever the tyre back on (which happened to the guy in Halfords). I have several levers but how good they are is worth looking into so I take the point there.

Effects

mewso wrote: »

There is a big danger of damaging the tube while trying to lever the tyre back on.

I've messed up new tubes a few times that way myself. So annoying.

magicbastarder

someone already mentioned it, but pumping up the tube a few PSI is important here, will reduce the chance of pinching it while wrestling with the tyre.

Wishbone Ash

Fian wrote: »

One thing that hasn't been mentioned ...

It was mentioned in post no. 12.