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Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 270 ✭✭RORY O CONNOR


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    So im finished building my house. Whats the correct name of the cert i get off my supervising engineer.?

    Even if you are on opt out he should at least provide you with Form BR SE 9202. This is a certificate offering an opinion of compliance with the planning permission and the building regulations.


  • Registered Users Posts: 61 ✭✭fearmhor18


    If anyone has any pictures of RAL green doors it would be greatly appreciated. We are going with Rationel and we wanted like a rich green. Look at moss green but it was too dark. If anyone has a nice green door please share :)


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Mod Note - 9/10/2012: This thread is for discussing the various aspects of building as they arise. Do not use this thread for "pre-building" queries. Such queries should be posted in their own threads.






    How many people on boards are in the process of building their own homes at the moment, have recently completed or planning to do so in the near future.

    I am about 3/4 of the way through a self-build.
    It would be interesting to have a "live" list of current self-builds on the forum.
    .


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Some posts removed starting with spammed of topic post. Please note thread rules. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 162 ✭✭moldy_sea


    Would really appreciate a PM on your window choice and why. We are picking soon; any input welcome.


  • Registered Users Posts: 430 ✭✭magnethead


    Hi Guys,
    Could you tell me the recommended way to repair the DPC radon barrier? Is it just sticking this tape on both sides of the rip? like someone suggested to me? and the same for the small holes?
    I will have level access at these areas, so I'd like the DPC to be as good as possible. (ground level at the top of the DPC, with ACO drains outside)

    IMAG3294.jpg?raw=1

    IMAG3295.jpg?raw=1


    IMAG3299.jpg?raw=1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,890 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    You could patch that and let it up the inside of the door frame. You could make up a tray to let that door sit into aswell with a new wide piece that would sit under the door and catch any water from it and carry it away under the door and out.
    If you want level access make sure your door supplier gives you a low threshold door and clearly mark your FFL before they are fitted to be sure of having the inside and outside as seemless as possible


  • Registered Users Posts: 430 ✭✭magnethead


    Consistant advise, DOn't you love it!! So the question is, do I cut the ends off these hangers or not?? One carpenter said it didn't mattter, while another said put 4!! (there is only room for 2) twisted nails in it, because all the weight is hanging on this area?
    So are the tabs important at the top of the hanger?
    Thanks, Keep the advise consistant haha

    IMAG3480.jpg?raw=1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,890 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    magnethead wrote: »
    Consistant advise, DOn't you love it!! So the question is, do I cut the ends off these hangers or not?? One carpenter said it didn't mattter, while another said put 4!! (there is only room for 2) twisted nails in it, because all the weight is hanging on this area?
    So are the tabs important at the top of the hanger?
    Thanks, Keep the advise consistant haha

    IMAG3480.jpg?raw=1
    Probably best to bend them over and nail them . Damn near as quick and handy as cutting them really . Is the timber 6x2 ? They might have been to fit 9x2's so that might be why one chippy is saying to just cut them.
    I'd nail the two holes on the bottom of the joist holder aswell , they are all meant to be nailed by design and the bottom two might avoid a crack in the plaster if the joist moves a bit in the holder .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,059 ✭✭✭✭Quazzie


    I definitely wouldn't cut them as it possibly could expose them to rusting over time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 430 ✭✭magnethead


    Thanks lads, I didn't really think they would rust inside the house, but I guess the moisture exposure could be enough...
    The Joists are 9x2 and I only put two nails in the bottom of the hanger, I'll nail down the top piece and put another one in the bottom.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,083 ✭✭✭Chesty08


    Hi all,

    Only found this thread now and i am about to start a self build. I currently have planning permission and now have quotes from contractors (I am hoping to finalise off on who I go with over the next 2 weeks).

    With regards the banks, I cannot proceed any further on mortgage until we have architectural/engineer report on costings.

    I know I have to get a solicitor for sign off on this. Just a couple of questions

    What should I expect solicitor fees to be?
    Do I pay for a valuation fee?
    Do I need to take out insurance - if so what is the best? Do banks not cover the Insurance for first 12 months?
    Professional Indemnity insurance - do I need this or should this be covered with engineers fees? If I do, what is best?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭froshtyv


    Chesty08 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Only found this thread now and i am about to start a self build. I currently have planning permission and now have quotes from contractors (I am hoping to finalise off on who I go with over the next 2 weeks).

    With regards the banks, I cannot proceed any further on mortgage until we have architectural/engineer report on costings.

    I know I have to get a solicitor for sign off on this. Just a couple of questions

    What should I expect solicitor fees to be?
    Every solicitor will have a different price so i cant give you an answer to this.
    Do I pay for a valuation fee?
    Yes, you will have to contact the bank for their valuation number and they will assign one to you. This figure will be based on the market value of the house upon completion.
    Do I need to take out insurance - if so what is the best? Do banks not cover the Insurance for first 12 months?
    I took out insurance that covers for public liability, I don't have a contractor, you will need this for your mortgage application.
    Professional Indemnity insurance - do I need this or should this be covered with engineers fees? If I do, what is best?
    Your engineer will have PI insurance, the bank will look for a copy of this for your mortgage application.[/QUOTE]


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,083 ✭✭✭Chesty08


    froshtyv wrote: »
    Your engineer will have PI insurance, the bank will look for a copy of this for your mortgage application.
    [/quote]

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 145 ✭✭dots104


    Chesty08 wrote: »

    Thanks[/QUOTE]

    We are just about to begin works on our site and our bank insisted that we had to take out our own insurance for the duration of the work even though our contractor has his own PI. Its called "in course of construction" insurance. I couldnt understand why we needed this but they wouldn't release funds without one. If the build is completed before 12 months the insurance changes over to regular house insurance for the remainder. Sounds to me a money making scheme for insurance company's


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    dots104 wrote: »
    Thanks

    We are just about to begin works on our site and our bank insisted that we had to take out our own insurance for the duration of the work even though our contractor has his own PI. Its called "in course of construction" insurance. I couldnt understand why we needed this but they wouldn't release funds without one. If the build is completed before 12 months the insurance changes over to regular house insurance for the remainder. Sounds to me a money making scheme for insurance company's[/QUOTE]


    Its all fine and dandy until someone falls off a ladder, the builder goes bust, a tree falls on your half build house etc etc protecting that couple of hundred thousand euros you are spending I think its money well spent...

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,966 ✭✭✭laoch na mona


    I'm looking at either buying or going the self build route, I'm trying to find estimates for self build costs but there doesn't seem to be much information out their re working out rough estimates of costs


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Mod Note - 9/10/2012: This thread is for discussing the various aspects of building as they arise. Do not use this thread for "pre-building" queries. Such queries should be posted in their own



    .
    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,292 ✭✭✭JJs Left Hand


    Hi, I'm planning on installing a freestanding Stovax Vogue Midi T in my house with no chimney so flue straight up through the roof. Flue will need to extend anywhere between 1 and 2 metres above the line of the roof.

    Has anyone who has done similar had any issues with a flue in the wind when it's at this height or had any leaks around the flue?

    New build, well insulated, air tight house so amount of use the stove is going to get could be minimal however I would like to have they option of lighting a fire.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    Be sure to double flue it so you don't burn your rafters.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭Merrion


    We have planning permission in and (most of the) contractors selected and engineer engaged for a "zero or negative embedded carbon" extension. It is a single story glue laminated mass timber over a ground screws foundation.

    However we are not able to find anyone to do the self build insurance for this "non standard" build as the company that used to underwrite these is UK based and has not got central bank clearance to sell in Ireland post Brexit. Does anyone know of anybody I should try in Ireland - brokers or?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,941 ✭✭✭dominatinMC


    Hi All,

    We just moved into our new build, which has some fairly large (2.5 m x 1.5 m) "picture" windows. I've noticed, tonight in particular with the weather conditions, that there seems to be a lot of deflection/sway in these windows with the wind blowing driectly at them. I presume this is normal and is a design feature? We have triple-pane UPVC windows from Munster Joinery.


    Thanks.



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