the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Fann Linn · 05-07-2021 10:24am

Weepsie wrote: »

Cheers. I've never used them, but I'll have to go with them. Can live without the second cage for a few weeks but going to need it eventually

Or.... Buy a new bike!!!

Weepsie · 05-07-2021 10:26am

I've just bought 2

Crippens1 · 05-07-2021 6:25pm

Mavic Ksyrium wheels; back wheel out of true but I can't seem to shift the spoke nipples. They won't budge under "normal" effort and I don't want to give it too much wellie in case I break something. Have tried DW40 to no avail.

The Mavic website descirbes them as "Fore integrated aluminum" and they have that larger, "circular" shape.

Any advice out there?

CantGetNoSleep · 05-07-2021 7:55pm

I've fixed a front disc brake which was rubbing. Used the business card method but took two or three attempts to get it right.

In doing so, I've maybe turned a minor problem into a major one, I've somehow stripped the boss / rivnut that the brake caliper bolt screws into. Bolt screws in but impossible to get any torque on it. I've tried swapping bolts so it is definitely the boss and not the bolt.

My LBS has fairly irregular opening times plus I'm going on holiday - so just wanted to check:

(a) if this is a big job to fix? any home fixes? I've considered loctite but won't risk it, and I know there is a method to fix water bottle bosses but not sure if you can try the same for a disc caliper mount

(b) is it safe to ride? I'm thinking no - the bolt screws in when using the longer end of an allen key, if you use the short end with some leverage it comes loose again. Normally this is an area that requires more torque I think

cletus · 05-07-2021 8:13pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've fixed a front disc brake which was rubbing. Used the business card method but took two or three attempts to get it right.

In doing so, I've maybe turned a minor problem into a major one, I've somehow stripped the boss / rivnut that the brake caliper bolt screws into. Bolt screws in but impossible to get any torque on it. I've tried swapping bolts so it is definitely the boss and not the bolt.

My LBS has fairly irregular opening times plus I'm going on holiday - so just wanted to check:

(a) if this is a big job to fix? any home fixes? I've considered loctite but won't risk it, and I know there is a method to fix water bottle bosses but not sure if you can try the same for a disc caliper mount

(b) is it safe to ride? I'm thinking no - the bolt screws in when using the longer end of an allen key, if you use the short end with some leverage it comes loose again. Normally this is an area that requires more torque I think

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

CantGetNoSleep · 06-07-2021 6:30am

cletus wrote: »

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

Thanks, I am relieved to hear it is fixable at least. I haven't managed to get a picture of inside the hole but did notice some stripped metal on the bolt when I removed it

CantGetNoSleep · 06-07-2021 5:35pm

cletus wrote: »

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

Some photos here of the bolt and then the hole although difficult to photograph that

https://imgur.com/a/KBFvmjI

https://imgur.com/a/nHUyinL

I've been to two bike shops today and struggling to find someone to repair it, including one place specialised in carbon frame repair who didn't have the tools (I live abroad)

cletus · 06-07-2021 6:59pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Some photos here of the bolt and then the hole although difficult to photograph that

https://imgur.com/a/KBFvmjI

https://imgur.com/a/nHUyinL

I've been to two bike shops today and struggling to find someone to repair it, including one place specialised in carbon frame repair who didn't have the tools (I live abroad)

Ok, I wasn't aware that it was a carbon fibre frame. I'm not sure that either of the two solutions I suggested would work, and it's almost definitely not in the DIY catagory.

It looks like the thread is stripped from the hole, but I'm sure the bike shops confirmed that for you

CantGetNoSleep · 06-07-2021 10:18pm

cletus wrote: »

Ok, I wasn't aware that it was a carbon fibre frame. I'm not sure that either of the two solutions I suggested would work, and it's almost definitely not in the DIY catagory.

It looks like the thread is stripped from the hole, but I'm sure the bike shops confirmed that for you

New bike it is so

Toblerone1978 · 15-07-2021 10:33am

New parts.jpg

Trek.jpg

Dolan.jpg

Hi all,

I’m hoping to refurbish my old Trek “Lance Armstrong” bike (an aluminium bike), which hasn’t been in a working state in nearly 10 years (please see attached photos for this). To do this, I’ll be taking part from my Dolan Ares (a carbon bike) which is a write-off, mainly due to obstructions in its internal routing cables and the shifters/brakes been f*cked (I also attach a photos for this).

I plan to do as follow:

· I’ll be using the existing frame (obviously!), fork, seat post, shifters, crank and bottom brackets.

· From the Dolan, I’ll be taking front and rear brakes, rear derailleur, jockey wheel, front derailleur (all Ultergra), the saddle (which actually came from the Trek!) and wheels.

· New I have brake cables, gear cables, stem and cassette (photo also attached).

· I also have handlebars and a set of pedals from a previous bike that I’ll intend to use.

I’ll be using this bike to help me a long! But any advice in advance? Particularly what tools to have (including grease, etc), should I be replacing anything new (both bikes are 10+ years old!), what approach to take and anything else you might think relevant!

I’ve very little bike mechanical experience so please do state the obvious!

Also, I’ll do have another road bike, which is my main bike, and a hybrid. This is just a back up for the rollers and may be some cycling in the winter.

Thanks in advance,

Toblerone1978.

Wildly Boaring · 15-07-2021 12:24pm

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117486179#Comment_117486179

Got this sorted at the weekend.

A 2mm spacer and the front end is now tightening nice and easily.

Cheers folks

nicksnikita · 17-07-2021 8:31am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117612840#Comment_117612840

YouTube is your best mate here. Find a decent build video and use it to guide you through.

You'll need at least the following tools:

bottom bracket tool, cassette tool and/or chain whip, Allen keys, screwdrivers, pliers/cable cutters.

Should be a nice build!

Weepsie · 17-07-2021 5:46pm

Out cycling today. SRAM force hydraulic brakes. Absolutely fine coming downhills from viewing point.

Probably broke a bit harder than necessary a few times and I've rotors that need changing.

Anyway, bike fell over (it was against a fence) when collecting something heading to work after cycle, but still all worked.

Now after work, it's as I've there's no connection between the caliper and lever. Air in system? Caliper issue? Any ideas. Can't get it to mechanic until Wednesday, and need it for Friday

cletus · 17-07-2021 6:07pm

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117624887#Comment_117624887

Have you checked for leaks? Have you checked for damage on the hydraulic hoses, most particularly at joins.

Loss of pressure usually means a leak, which will introduce air into the system.

Have a look and see is the piston actuating when you pull the lever

Weepsie · 17-07-2021 6:25pm

First experience with hydraulic, so not entirely sure how without taking the brake apart.

Might be slight leak at the caliper though. At least it didn't happen going downhill, but probably lead to it. Id wager the rotors didn't help..

cletus · 17-07-2021 6:34pm

If it were me, I'd be looking for evidence of fluid at the join between hose and caliper, and hose and lever.

The other place you could get a leak would be at the piston itself inside the caliper.

Pulling the lever while checking each connection should help you spot fluid.

Also, put the bike up on s bike stand if you have one, and see if the piston is moving in the caliper when you pull the lever, as in, are the brake pads moving towards the disc

Weepsie · 17-07-2021 6:40pm

They are moving, but only very very slightly. I'll have look on Tuesday. Cheers for advice.

07Lapierre · 17-07-2021 8:28pm

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/102206779#Comment_102206779

Powerwashing is fine if you reduce the pressure to 1/2 or more and avoid the BB, headset and wheel bearings. Beware though. Power washing will remove all the lube from your chain and unless you relube it after, it will rust like crazy!

Mundo7976 · 17-07-2021 9:03pm

Any suggestions for replacement of trp hyrd brakes. Every week or two its a new issue with them. Ive been trying to put it off as i dont want unnecessary replacing.

I need something affordable if ye've any suggestions, cheers 👍🏻

magicbastarder · 17-07-2021 9:56pm

what sort of issues have you had? i've had mine about 4 or 5 years now with little complaint.

CantGetNoSleep · 17-07-2021 10:01pm

I'm having issues indexing a 1x Shimano GRX setup.

Ive never been gifted at indexing gears but because this was 1x, thought I could do it myself.

I can get it almost ok on the stand, but then out on the road I always get jumps on the higher gears. I can solve this by playing with the barrel adjuster a bit, but that just causes jumps when I shift to the lower side of the cassette or won't let me shift into the biggest ring at all even.

Not sure what I am doing wrong. Limit screws seem fine and I can get it into every cog on the cassette on the stand but on the road there is clearly something up with it. Doesn't seem like a B screw issue either. I've tried playing around with the barrel adjuster but just doesn't seem to want to work for me.

Any ideas?

Mundo7976 · 17-07-2021 10:39pm

Rubbing, finally got sorted with new discs & pads. Bled them, new wire, adjusted to nth degree. Still not powerful enough for a quick stop, but now one of them has leaked from the small bleed screw and i feel they might be unsafe.

When they did work they were good, just think it may be time to replace.

magicbastarder · 17-07-2021 10:51pm

maybe the pistons were sticking slightly?

Mundo7976 · 17-07-2021 10:58pm

Thought of that and massaged gt85 around the edges of the plates.

I wont give up yet, just looking for a back up alternative

magicbastarder · 17-07-2021 11:03pm

not sure what options are out there for you in terms of replacement which won't involve replacing the shifters.

i asked - just out of curiosity - in my LBS about six months ago what the difference in price between replacing the calipers and shifters, vs. a whole groupset replacement was, and he just chuckled and said something like 'good luck with getting the parts for either option'.

Mundo7976 · 17-07-2021 11:18pm

😂

I may persist so

Weepsie · 18-07-2021 9:01am

Juin tech r1 are similar to the trp and quite good

nilhg · 18-07-2021 1:59pm

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117625746#Comment_117625746

How new is the cable? If it's a bit sticky it could cause the symptoms you describe. Otherwise could the derailleur hanger e a little bent? No recent falls?

CantGetNoSleep · 19-07-2021 9:19am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117627402#Comment_117627402

It was indeed the alignment of the derailleur hanger - I noticed when I had given up after hours of playing around with cable tension and limit screws.

I use two wheelsets on the bike so was swapping over the wheels to take it to the bike shop for them to sort it. When putting the new wheel in, the thru axle would not tighten - on Genesis thru-axle frames, the point where the thru axle attaches is connected to the hanger and there is a small plate attaching it to the frame. This had all moved out of position, obviously impacting shifting. Not an ideal set up tbh as I've never had a hanger that can move just by swapping a wheelset.

Toblerone1978 · 19-07-2021 9:42am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117623005#Comment_117623005

Cheers Nicksnikita. Can I ask you to respond with a link for a cassette tool, just want to make sure it's the correct item I'm looking at!

nicksnikita · 19-07-2021 10:01am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117630976#Comment_117630976

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/bbb-lockout-cassette-lockring-remover-btl12/rp-prod60748

this one would do the job. Cheaper ones may be available. That’s just the first one I came across on crc.

Choose Shimano if you run a Shimano or SRAM cassette. Choose Campag if you run a Campag one

Benny Cake · 19-07-2021 9:32pm

Anyone here have sram red? Weird question but should my rear derailer shift when the bike is stationary? It shifts perfectly on the move but when it's not it doesn't shift up or down. It's like it's in a sort of "sleep" mode.

Update: sorted

Weepsie · 20-07-2021 9:31pm

2 sets of easy outs are not getting me much further on my seized cage bolts and a hacksaw is seemingly next to useless in trying to cut it.

I've tried to cut the bolt head off to force the rivnut into the bike but not getting far there either.running out of ideas

cletus · 20-07-2021 10:24pm

Personally I've never had much success with easy outs.

Two DIY options as I see them.

Try filing two flats on opposite sides of the head, and see can you get purchase on them.

Option two is more difficult, but you could drill out the screw. You'd have to be careful not to slip and damage the frame, and you'd want to make sure your using the

Weepsie · 20-07-2021 10:42pm

It's a mushroom head / neat flat head bolt so filing it down is difficult.

I'll ask lbs again tomorrow. He migbt take pity on me

cletus · 20-07-2021 11:01pm

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117639317#Comment_117639317

Can you post a picture

Weepsie · 21-07-2021 7:23am

Mundo7976 · 21-07-2021 7:33am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117639905#Comment_117639905

Is there any space for the tip of a vise grip to get a hold of the outer edge. As tight as you can, it may get some movement

Brian? · 21-07-2021 8:28am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117638984#Comment_117638984

Jesus, you're in real trouble here. I wonder if the bolts were cross threaded and forced in. Can you post pictures of the current situation?

Brian? · 21-07-2021 8:41am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117639905#Comment_117639905

Disregard my last post, I see these now.

The easy outs showing drill into the screw and loosen it. From your picture I can't see any evidence that an easy out was used, are they biting into the screw at all? Get a HSS drill bit that's smaller than the easy out (and the shaft of the screw), drill into the centre of the screw to a depth of a 3-4mm. Then used the easy out to take the screw out.

These button head screws are the absolute worst.

Brian? · 21-07-2021 8:51am

@Weepsie Check out from about 5:30 on in this video, on how to use easy out.

hesker · 21-07-2021 9:10am

Why is the hacksaw useless ?

Did you try using a new blade?

Or is it one of those mini hacksaws. With a proper hacksaw and new blade I reckon that would be out in about 5 minutes

Weepsie · 21-07-2021 9:50am

Just kept slipping I'll try with a new blade. It's a small one all right but it cut through a swing set not so long ago.

I need some new drill bits anyway so might do that again

hesker · 21-07-2021 10:29am

You would need to stand the bike so that the seat tube is horizontal and the bike is secured. Then you can use your free hand to support the blade.

cletus · 21-07-2021 10:34am

Lots of different option offered here, so this is not to suggest a new way, but looking at the button head, I can't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to drill, file, or cut with a hacksaw.

As Brian said, setup is important here. No point trying to do any of this with the bike just propped up against a wall. You need to secure the frame, get the screw heads horizontal, and at a workable height.

ARX · 21-07-2021 10:53am

Maybe try JB Weld? I've never tried it, so I've no idea if it'd work.

https://www.melfast.com/blog/2015/04/effective-ways-to-remove-stripped-screws#:~:text=JB%20Weld%20is%20a%20strong,a%20few%20minutes%20to%20set.

Brian? · 21-07-2021 11:07am

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117640140#Comment_117640140

Button head screws + Hacksaw = disaster

The easy outs will work. Commitment is needed.

magicbastarder · 21-07-2021 11:22am

sher i've an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc i can lend you...

Weepsie · 21-07-2021 4:48pm

Ive just bought this for the time being. It's ugly, bht in this heat who cares and better than ruining a frame

https://www.decathlon.ie/bottle-cage/143406-36985-universal-bottle-cage-mount-black.html

also, seems they way i have to lock up my bike at work causes issues with my hydraulic brakes. Lbs asked me if I had it upside down or anything at all as he nor I could find any leak or any other issue and I said no, but it's locked on it's back wheel in a vertical position. Said, it's not common, but it can cause an issue with them for whatever reason.

Going to bleed them and hope they don't fail on Saturday

Weepsie · 22-07-2021 5:38pm

Bleeding the brakes lead nowhere. So pistons and or master cylinder might be the issue

This video seems to be what I have to do, but I'm guaranteed to get something wrong I think, nor do I have the grease or bleed equipment

https://youtu.be/gqEHA2dRgqs

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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