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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 926 ✭✭✭Utter Consternation


    I've a 150 euro of a voucher for the LBS. The bike is due a service, it's two years old and i've done around 9000km on it. Is there anything i should look at replacing on it? I changed the tyres last year and also had a new chain and cassette put on it too.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    cletus wrote: »
    Thanks for that. Is it just the aesthetics that you don't like?

    I saw bar tape from Deda that's black, with orange in the perforations, so good to know the brand is good too.

    I had also come across Lizardskin, but the reviews seemed to vary wildly
    Just the aesthetics. Lizard skin are nice, good grip and aesthetically pleasing but never last long IMO, and I always found a little tougher to put on but not majorly, a little less stretch compared to other brands.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,480 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i have bright orange bar tape on my dry weather bike - as mentioned, it's the synthetic cork type. it gets a little grubby, but not too bad, but i suspect if it was on an all weather bike it'd be manky by now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Just the aesthetics. Lizard skin are nice, good grip and aesthetically pleasing but never last long IMO, and I always found a little tougher to put on but not majorly, a little less stretch compared to other brands.

    This is what I had been thinking, not too egregious style wise :D

    HT5835.jpg

    However, magicbastardar seriously has me thinking about that all orange tape...


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,480 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    ah, that's much more black than orange. and the orange parts won't get as much contact with your gloves anyway.
    mine are just solid orange:

    482383.jpg


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    here is the Fizik one 13020675de91424d66b70.63723274.jpg

    I just prefer one colour tape, that is just me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    This is the bike its going on

    483743.jpg


    Maybe all orange...


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,238 ✭✭✭secman


    Got a blowout on Sunday's spin, a fair oul cut smack middle of the back tyre, managed rest of the spin with a boot in it, checking it tonight and there's a big enough kink in the tyre. Replacing it with Gp5000, but front wheel has Go4000 with plenty of life in it, will the mix be okay ?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    secman wrote: »
    Got a blowout on Sunday's spin, a fair oul cut smack middle of the back tyre, managed rest of the spin with a boot in it, checking it tonight and there's a big enough kink in the tyre. Replacing it with Gp5000, but front wheel has Go4000 with plenty of life in it, will the mix be okay ?

    Absolutely, the GP4000 will probably outlast the 5000 in my experience


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,480 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i noticed a tiny bit of play in my front wheel the other day (aksium disc); anyone know any decent videos on how to tighten it up, or would have tips?
    it's been many years since i did this, and that would have been on cheapo cup and cone arrangements.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭rayman1


    Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
    I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
    It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
    Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 673 ✭✭✭TychoCaine


    rayman1 wrote: »
    Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
    I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
    It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
    Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.
    I've used them in the past and they held long term. I've had good experience with Skabs, Stans and Park Tool ones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I’ve noticed some paint flaking and bubbling at the top of the forks on my Giant Defy 4 (2014). What should I do here? Paint over it? Ignore it as it’s aluminium and shouldn’t really corrode? Get a second hand fork?

    The original specs say that the forks are carbon and as I can see aluminium, I assume that it’s just the blades that are carbon.

    There’s over 27,000km on this bike so I don’t want to spend a lot of money on it. It already could do with a new set of wheels and probably a new headset too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    rayman1 wrote: »
    Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
    I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
    It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
    Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.

    I have one on a latex tube for over two years now and it’s still holding tight. I consider them permanent.

    I use the park tools patches from CRC.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    crosstownk wrote: »
    I’ve noticed some paint flaking and bubbling at the top of the forks on my Giant Defy 4 (2014). What should I do here? Paint over it? Ignore it as it’s aluminium and shouldn’t really corrode? Get a second hand fork?

    Personally I'd sand it and cover in paint over it with aluminium primer where it has bubbled but this probably isn't necessary, if alu "rusts" it tends to form a slightly larger but tougher layer on top if my memory serves me right. I personally wouldn't be concerned from a safety side of things unless there are other issues


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Personally I'd sand it and cover in paint over it with aluminium primer where it has bubbled but this probably isn't necessary, if alu "rusts" it tends to form a slightly larger but tougher layer on top if my memory serves me right. I personally wouldn't be concerned from a safety side of things unless there are other issues

    Thanks for the reply.

    I’ll leave it for now so. It’s my winter bike and I’ll replace the headset in the summer and that’d be the ideal time to repaint the fork.


  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Fitted new brake pads to the commuter this morning, can't get enough tension on the brake levers - Could this be due to the fact the brake cable was fitted to slightly worn brake pads back in October and there isn't enough cable or am I doing something really stupid?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    Fitted new brake pads to the commuter this morning, can't get enough tension on the brake levers - Could this be due to the fact the brake cable was fitted to slightly worn brake pads back in October and there isn't enough cable or am I doing something really stupid?

    When you say you can't get enough tension, do you mean that the brakes aren't applying even when the levered are fully applied?


  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    cletus wrote: »
    When you say you can't get enough tension, do you mean that the brakes aren't applying even when the levered are fully applied?


    The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed

    Have you slackened off the retaining screw for the cable at the caliper, pulled the cable through and then tightened up the retaining screw?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    cletus wrote: »
    Have you slackened off the retaining screw for the cable at the caliper, pulled the cable through and then tightened up the retaining screw?


    Yes


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Maybe a couple of pictures might help assess the situation


  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Sorted; Trying to do a rush job and being stupid about it

    Just had to adjust the toe so I could get more clearance between pad and rim, allowed me to tighten the cable further


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed

    Tighten the cable tension - loosen the cable clamp, squeeze the pads onto the rim with one hand, check the cable is fairly tight and re-tighten the cable clamp with the other hand. If the lever feels right, you're done, if not, go again pulling the cable in some more or releasing it a bit (2-4mm of cable travel is the range you're looking at here)


  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Another one; Neglected cleaning/wiping the commuter chain after wet days in December, had a go at removing the rust with the usual - tinfoil, coca cola and white vinegar but no joy.

    It still runs fine but feels quite stiff and dry even after degreasing and relubing.

    Would I be better off just buying a new chain?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    Another one; Neglected cleaning/wiping the commuter chain after wet days in December, had a go at removing the rust with the usual - tinfoil, coca cola and white vinegar but no joy.

    It still runs fine but feels quite stiff and dry even after degreasing and relubing.

    Would I be better off just buying a new chain?

    For the price of a chain, yeah change it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,238 ✭✭✭secman


    Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,480 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    secman wrote: »
    Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?

    And slightly better imo.

    Although KMC have proved their worth with me plus a mate of mine who can throw down some serious power swears by them


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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,646 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    secman wrote: »
    Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?

    Yes, I've switched from Shimano last 12 months and have found the sram chains far better. They are taking heavy workload really well in comparison.


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