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11-01-2019, 20:29   #1096
68 lost souls
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Technically, that chainring is a bit worn, and so will wear a new chain a little faster than a brand new chainring would but, given the price of a new chainring versus the cost of a new chain and cassette, I'd run a new chain and cassette on this 'ring one more time, and then when that chain and cassette are worn out again, I'd get all three and start again fresh.
If it makes any difference price wise it’s a 105 chain set. New cassette is ultegra as 105 doesn’t come on 12-30 and chain is kmc xl10s
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11-01-2019, 23:49   #1097
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Anyone know if there's any Italian Threaded BB386EVO bottom brack at all at all? I was about to pull the trigger on a BSA one, then realised my bike was likely Italian threaded (Guerciotti) so scuppered some plans
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13-01-2019, 17:33   #1098
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How does one know the condition of a front hub? Spoke are solid, spins freely etc anything else to check? (Going to look at a 2nd hand wheel hence the question)
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13-01-2019, 17:45   #1099
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Anyone know if there's any Italian Threaded BB386EVO bottom brack at all at all? I was about to pull the trigger on a BSA one, then realised my bike was likely Italian threaded (Guerciotti) so scuppered some plans
Can you put up a link to the bike?
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13-01-2019, 17:53   #1100
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How does one know the condition of a front hub? Spoke are solid, spins freely etc anything else to check? (Going to look at a 2nd hand wheel hence the question)
Hold the axle and spin the wheel - should be silky-smooth with no roughness (or minimal, consistent "texture" if it's a cheap wheel, but I presume you aren't going to buy a wheel that cheap on the secondhand market).

Check the rim is straight, with no hops or dents, as well as no sideways run-out.

If it's a rim-brake wheel, check the brake tracks for wear - there may be a rut worn into the centre of the brake-track (if so, leave it, unless it's really cheap).

Bring a spoke key and turn a few spokes a half-turn open (and then turn them back, to avoid messing up the trueness) - if the nipples are seized or part-seized, walk away. Another sign that the nipples may seize soon is a lot of corrosion (white bloom on the aluminium) under the rim-tape - don't buy a wheel without seeing under the rim-tape - if the seller doesn't want to take the tyres off, walk away.
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13-01-2019, 18:02   #1101
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Derailleur / Gear adjustment

Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks
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13-01-2019, 18:08   #1102
Type 17
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Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks
Don't touch the H/L screws to set the indexing, and if you have, you need to set them up again before riding.

Both the limit settings (H/L) and the indexing (cable tension) are covered here
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13-01-2019, 18:27   #1103
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Desperately need help folks.

Spent the day servicing my bike.

Fixed up my cantilever brakes with nice new pads, cleaned and greased everything. Spent a million years getting them set up *just right*

Was screwing the rear cantilever back on and it was just about tight enough and the head of the screw snapped off.

So now I have most of a screw stuck in the cantilever boss.

It's not sticking out or even flush but slightly recessed.

What on earth do I do? (Aside from cursing and feeling sorry for myself, I'm doing loads of that).

Massive internet high five for anyone who can help me out with any ideas.

So so so pisssed off.
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13-01-2019, 18:31   #1104
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Originally Posted by homer911 View Post
Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks
Your gears may have been slipping because of a worn chain and/or cassette.
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13-01-2019, 18:34   #1105
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Desperately need help folks.

Spent the day servicing my bike.

Fixed up my cantilever brakes with nice new pads, cleaned and greased everything. Spent a million years getting them set up *just right*

Was screwing the rear cantilever back on and it was just about tight enough and the head of the screw snapped off.

So now I have most of a screw stuck in the cantilever boss.

It's not sticking out or even flush but slightly recessed.

What on earth do I do? (Aside from cursing and feeling sorry for myself, I'm doing loads of that).

Massive internet high five for anyone who can help me out with any ideas.

So so so pisssed off.
photograph please.
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13-01-2019, 18:35   #1106
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Most canti bosses are actually screwed into a recess on the frame - check if there are two flats at its base, ready to take a 7 or 8mm open-end spanner - if you can get a spare one off a scrap frame (I have a few spare ones if you're in Dublin), you can then afford to attempt to unscrew the old one (they're usually tight as hell, and you may round off the flats, so be prepared to get the Vice-grips out).
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13-01-2019, 18:57   #1107
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Most canti bosses are actually screwed into a recess on the frame - check if there are two flats at its base, ready to take a 7 or 8mm open-end spanner - if you can get a spare one off a scrap frame (I have a few spare ones if you're in Dublin), you can then afford to attempt to unscrew the old one (they're usually tight as hell, and you may round off the flats, so be prepared to get the Vice-grips out).
It's an old steel frame and appears to all one bit stuck on? I'll have another look tomorrow
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13-01-2019, 18:58   #1108
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photograph please.
I'll get one tomorrow (don't trust myself to go near the bike again)

If a bit were still sticking out I'd Dremel a groove in it an screw it out, but it's about 3/4mm recessed into the boss
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13-01-2019, 19:09   #1109
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It's an old steel frame and appears to all one bit stuck on? I'll have another look tomorrow
Here's a good pic of one, so you can see which bit unscrews and what is welded to the rest of the frame. note that the join may be painted over.

https://www.amazon.com/Surly-Cantile.../dp/B001GSONNA
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13-01-2019, 19:11   #1110
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If the head came off, and you can now remove the brake, is there nothing left protruding to grip onto?
If not, you'd need to drill into the damaged screw and use an ez-out to remove it
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