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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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LollipopJimmy

CramCycle wrote: »

Bottle of coke and a brush might have been quicker.

The coke was for the bricks, not for energy to scrub the bricks, just to be clear.

Paraffin oil and a match burns away the stain also...

Type 17

Type 17 wrote: »

In my early teens (1985), I stripped the axles and freewheel off a pair of yellow-but-filthy Skyway Tuff II BMX wheels and put them in the dishwasher when my mum was out. Got them out before she came home, and she never knew.
The wheels looked amazing, but were just as dirty a few months later...

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

I'm more shocked that you had a dishwasher in 1985, I was the dishwasher in my house well into the late 90s!

To be fair, we only got one because we'd moved to a new house a few years earlier, and there was a plumbed space for one in the kitchen - my parents spent a year or so looking at the hole, whilst saving up to fill it - if the house hadn't got the plumbed space, I doubt we would have got one until much later.

saccades

magicbastarder wrote: »

i may be proving my own thread title wrong here, but was musing on the way in - what bike components could you clean in the dishwasher?

the salt will be a big limiting factor - but cassette and chainrings, anyway? jockey wheels too?

Why is everyone so stressed about salt? It's used in low amounts as a rinse aid, the residue shouldn't be visible to the naked eye (9mg/M3).

Dishwasher detergent is very caustic, so avoid putting anything aluminium in there.

Mickiemcfist

I bought a new 250 quid bog standard road bike for my 20k round trip commute 3 months ago, what would be the typical timeline for maintenance/servicing etc.
I ask as all guides I can find online are geared to the more enthusiastic cyclist with expensive bikes (i.e. wash drivetrain after each use). I've washed & oiled the chain about once every 500km. Other than that, should servicing be annual? I was thinking of doing it when summer starts after the worst of the weather has ended.

CramCycle

I wouldn't have used any detergent if using the washer, just put it on a hot wash and let the mechanical action and heat take it away.

bsb1971

Quick question. I'm building up a commuter with old spares. Will a 50 36 chainrings work with an 11 28 or 12 27 cassette with a short cage derailleur. It's a 10 speed mish mash of 105, ultegra and tiagra. Thanks in advance.

[Deleted User]

bsb1971 wrote: »

Quick question. I'm building up a commuter with old spares. Will a 50 36 chainrings work with an 11 28 or 12 27 cassette with a short cage derailleur. It's a 10 speed mish mash of 105, ultegra and tiagra. Thanks in advance.

Some reading here https://www.mantel.com/blog/en/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter/

I imagine some one here can give you a proper yes or no though.

bsb1971

@Enfilade - thanks for that, it would seem I now have something to keep me busy over the weekend, sorting that o

rayman1

bsb1971 wrote: »

Quick question. I'm building up a commuter with old spares. Will a 50 36 chainrings work with an 11 28 or 12 27 cassette with a short cage derailleur. It's a 10 speed mish mash of 105, ultegra and tiagra. Thanks in advance.

I don't see why not considering my 2013 Giant Defy came with Ultegra 50/34 chainrings, an 11/28 cassette and a short cage rear derailleur.

S_D

S_D wrote: »

Looking at a new wheel set and really dont know much about different wheels to make a decision!

https://www.donedeal.ie/bicycles-for-sale/zipp-404-carbon-wheels/20675352 <- Older Zipp

https://www.donedeal.ie/bicycles-for-sale/mavic-cosmic-carbone-slr-front-wheel-clincher/20685584 <- Cosmic SLR

This would be using for TT. Ideally just looking at fronts only, but would a better wheel be the older Zipp or something like that Cosmic? Or is it much of a muchness?

Anyone?

68 lost souls

Put new wheels on and while transferring cassette I did a deep clean. Now chain started slipping on some gears. I think the dirt had actually been stopping it from slipping.

Measured chain and it’s a bit stretched but decided it’s time for new chain and cassette, no worries

Got them today and while I have the chain off looking at the chain ring does it need changing too?

https://flic.kr/p/2cLe7vi

Type 17

S_D wrote: »

Anyone?

Hard to say - wheels are like car insurance - the deal that someone else got may not suit you or vice-versa. Note that the Cosmic front wheel is a clincher and the Zipps are tubulars - have you thought about which you would prefer?

68 lost souls wrote: »

Put new wheels on and while transferring cassette I did a deep clean. Now chain started slipping on some gears. I think the dirt had actually been stopping it from slipping.

Measured chain and it’s a bit stretched but decided it’s time for new chain and cassette, no worries

Got them today and while I have the chain off looking at the chain ring does it need changing too?

https://flic.kr/p/2cLe7vi

Technically, that chainring is a bit worn, and so will wear a new chain a little faster than a brand new chainring would but, given the price of a new chainring versus the cost of a new chain and cassette, I'd run a new chain and cassette on this 'ring one more time, and then when that chain and cassette are worn out again, I'd get all three and start again fresh.

68 lost souls

Type 17 wrote: »

Technically, that chainring is a bit worn, and so will wear a new chain a little faster than a brand new chainring would but, given the price of a new chainring versus the cost of a new chain and cassette, I'd run a new chain and cassette on this 'ring one more time, and then when that chain and cassette are worn out again, I'd get all three and start again fresh.

If it makes any difference price wise it’s a 105 chain set. New cassette is ultegra as 105 doesn’t come on 12-30 and chain is kmc xl10s

S_D

How does one know the condition of a front hub? Spoke are solid, spins freely etc anything else to check? (Going to look at a 2nd hand wheel hence the question)

Eamonnator

Weepsie wrote: »

Anyone know if there's any Italian Threaded BB386EVO bottom brack at all at all? I was about to pull the trigger on a BSA one, then realised my bike was likely Italian threaded (Guerciotti) so scuppered some plans

Can you put up a link to the bike?

Type 17

S_D wrote: »

How does one know the condition of a front hub? Spoke are solid, spins freely etc anything else to check? (Going to look at a 2nd hand wheel hence the question)

Hold the axle and spin the wheel - should be silky-smooth with no roughness (or minimal, consistent "texture" if it's a cheap wheel, but I presume you aren't going to buy a wheel that cheap on the secondhand market).

Check the rim is straight, with no hops or dents, as well as no sideways run-out.

If it's a rim-brake wheel, check the brake tracks for wear - there may be a rut worn into the centre of the brake-track (if so, leave it, unless it's really cheap).

Bring a spoke key and turn a few spokes a half-turn open (and then turn them back, to avoid messing up the trueness) - if the nipples are seized or part-seized, walk away. Another sign that the nipples may seize soon is a lot of corrosion (white bloom on the aluminium) under the rim-tape - don't buy a wheel without seeing under the rim-tape - if the seller doesn't want to take the tyres off, walk away.

homer911

Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks

Type 17

homer911 wrote: »

Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks

Don't touch the H/L screws to set the indexing, and if you have, you need to set them up again before riding.

Both the limit settings (H/L) and the indexing (cable tension) are covered here

John Hutton

Desperately need help folks.

Spent the day servicing my bike.

Fixed up my cantilever brakes with nice new pads, cleaned and greased everything. Spent a million years getting them set up *just right*

Was screwing the rear cantilever back on and it was just about tight enough and the head of the screw snapped off.

So now I have most of a screw stuck in the cantilever boss.

It's not sticking out or even flush but slightly recessed.

What on earth do I do? (Aside from cursing and feeling sorry for myself, I'm doing loads of that).

Massive internet high five for anyone who can help me out with any ideas.

So so so pisssed off.

Eamonnator

homer911 wrote: »

Sorry for the dumb question. I've just changed my gear cable as the gears were slipping and I noticed the cable was fraying at the derailleur. I've watched a few videos online of H/L setting and indexing. My problem is that I cant get the gears to shift lower than 4th gear. Adjusting the L setting makes no difference. Is the tension in my gear cable wrong or am I missing something stupid. I understand the barrel adjustment is only for indexing.

Many thanks

Your gears may have been slipping because of a worn chain and/or cassette.

Eamonnator

John Hutton wrote: »

Desperately need help folks.

Spent the day servicing my bike.

Fixed up my cantilever brakes with nice new pads, cleaned and greased everything. Spent a million years getting them set up *just right*

Was screwing the rear cantilever back on and it was just about tight enough and the head of the screw snapped off.

So now I have most of a screw stuck in the cantilever boss.

It's not sticking out or even flush but slightly recessed.

What on earth do I do? (Aside from cursing and feeling sorry for myself, I'm doing loads of that).

Massive internet high five for anyone who can help me out with any ideas.

So so so pisssed off.

photograph please.

Type 17

Most canti bosses are actually screwed into a recess on the frame - check if there are two flats at its base, ready to take a 7 or 8mm open-end spanner - if you can get a spare one off a scrap frame (I have a few spare ones if you're in Dublin), you can then afford to attempt to unscrew the old one (they're usually tight as hell, and you may round off the flats, so be prepared to get the Vice-grips out).

John Hutton

Type 17 wrote: »

Most canti bosses are actually screwed into a recess on the frame - check if there are two flats at its base, ready to take a 7 or 8mm open-end spanner - if you can get a spare one off a scrap frame (I have a few spare ones if you're in Dublin), you can then afford to attempt to unscrew the old one (they're usually tight as hell, and you may round off the flats, so be prepared to get the Vice-grips out).

It's an old steel frame and appears to all one bit stuck on? I'll have another look tomorrow

John Hutton

Eamonnator wrote: »

photograph please.

I'll get one tomorrow (don't trust myself to go near the bike again)

If a bit were still sticking out I'd Dremel a groove in it an screw it out, but it's about 3/4mm recessed into the boss

Type 17

John Hutton wrote: »

It's an old steel frame and appears to all one bit stuck on? I'll have another look tomorrow

Here's a good pic of one, so you can see which bit unscrews and what is welded to the rest of the frame. note that the join may be painted over.

https://www.amazon.com/Surly-Cantilever-Stud-1mm-Threaded/dp/B001GSONNA

triggermortis

If the head came off, and you can now remove the brake, is there nothing left protruding to grip onto?
If not, you'd need to drill into the damaged screw and use an ez-out to remove it

site_owner

if you're near baldoyle i have a set of screw extractors you can try.

John Hutton

triggermortis wrote: »

If the head came off, and you can now remove the brake, is there nothing left protruding to grip onto?
If not, you'd need to drill into the damaged screw and use an ez-out to remove it

This is exactly what has happened. Looks like I'll need screw remover, or do you think a left handed drill bit?

It's well greased and the bolt was going in and comes out fairly easily

John Hutton

site_owner wrote: »

if you're near baldoyle i have a set of screw extractors you can try.

I actually live in Baldoyle, I may take you up on that, thanks so much. I have a pile of stuff in the shed that whoever lived in my house before left behind so I'll have a look there first to see if I have one

John Hutton

Mission successful!

You can see below a picture of the broken screw. I managed to get it out with a bolt extractor, I drilled, with a narrow bit, into the stuck screw, and then put the bolt extractor into the hold I'd made and, grabbing the end with a wrench, slowly turned it out. You can see a pic of the removed bolt and an original.

I'm very relieved. My top tip, if working on a vintage bike, replace all the bolts even of they look fine!!!