the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Rezident · 13-03-2021 7:25pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Sounds like your wheels should have a rim tape. Refit the tube and see if the cut lines up with the valve hole, or one of the spoke holes.

It is close to the valve hole, about an inch or two away. I will get rim tape, my last bike came with it. Any recommendations for rim tape? What's the best for avoiding punctures?

LollipopJimmy · 13-03-2021 7:30pm

Anybody else find their Di2 charger 'fussy' about the type of plug top it uses?

The one from my Samsung phone discharged the battery and the only one that seems to work is an older Samsung one I have rather than the latest type and the older one again doesn't work either.

If its going to be fussy why not supply a ****ing plug top

CramCycle · 13-03-2021 7:32pm

LikeTheseOdds wrote: »

missed this pic with 5 attachment limit.

I suspect your chainring is worn quite well but its hard to tell, can you take a pic without the chain on it?

The tyres look grand

07Lapierre · 13-03-2021 7:36pm

Rezident wrote: »

It is close to the valve hole, about an inch or two away. I will get rim tape, my last bike came with it. Any recommendations for rim tape? What's the best for avoiding punctures?

My wheels don’t need rim tape so I’m probably not the best person to ask. But I would recommend that you ensure the ones you get are as wide as possible. If they are not then they can move sideways and expose the edge of the spoke holes , which can cause punctures

magicbastarder · 13-03-2021 7:47pm

are they SR2 wheels on it? this ad for a pair shows rim tape.

https://www.carousell.sg/p/giant-s-r2-wheelset-109871287/

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 7:58pm

CramCycle wrote: »

I suspect your chainring is worn quite well but its hard to tell, can you take a pic without the chain on it?

The tyres look grand

Will do! I left it in with my local bike shop to have a look at the cassette, and pop a new chain on it.

I bought the stand in lidl, glad I did too as I'd wouldn't have noticed these things. Just happened across it before putting dry lube onto the chain after degreasing. Just goes to show me I've a bit to go before doing these things myself :pac:

TerryDi2Center · 13-03-2021 8:47pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Anybody else find their Di2 charger 'fussy' about the type of plug top it uses?

The one from my Samsung phone discharged the battery and the only one that seems to work is an older Samsung one I have rather than the latest type and the older one again doesn't work either.

If its going to be fussy why not supply a ****ing plug top

Make sure whatever you plug it into is capable of supplying at least 1.0A... otherwise you can experience issues like these.

mvt · 13-03-2021 8:48pm

I Can deal with anything on my bikes except bottom brackets which always baffle me.

I have a Trek with 105 cranks & I think an octolink BB.

I would like to replace both with a new 105 compact crank & am unsure as to the compatible BB?

Also, if I do this would the same BB be compatible with a sub compact crank?

One last question, would anyone have a online source for a largeish quantity of biodegradable chain degreaser, say a gallon or so ?

Thanks in advance.

Rezident · 13-03-2021 9:07pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

are they SR2 wheels on it? this ad for a pair shows rim tape.

https://www.carousell.sg/p/giant-s-r2-wheelset-109871287/

yes they are SR2 wheels but no rim tape. It was supposed to come tubeless, but the compressor at the bike shop broke apparently, so they put in normal tubes, which suits me as the whole tubeless thing looks way too complicated for me, but now they keep bursting.

Yep from that photo, it looks like they need rim tape, now why does cycletribe.ie have no rim tape?

Type 17 · 13-03-2021 9:43pm

TerryDi2Center wrote: »

Make sure whatever you plug it into is capable of supplying at least 1.0A... otherwise you can experience issues like these.

And note that many laptop/desktop computers will limit the power output (amps) of the USB ports, so even though the LED will initially light up on the Di2 charger, the PC will cut the current to a really low level after a few seconds, to protect the motherboard - this will keep the LED on, but the battery won't be charged, no matter how long you leave it.

Best use a dedicated charger (that can provide at least 1.0A, as TerryDi2Center says)

LollipopJimmy · 13-03-2021 9:45pm

Thanks for that, thing is it's rarely charged and plug tops are a commodity in this house. I'll park the one that works offside

padjocollins · 14-03-2021 10:10am

deRailleurs, cassettes, chains and the like were a bit of a black hole for me and i suspect a lot like me.
I've moved on to belt drives, gear hubs, hydralic brakes and hard to puncture tires . different game. I can even do some maintenance on the low maintenance bike https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/75398/carbon-gates-belt-drive-need-to-have-lower-gears-to-get-up-steeper-hills-best . Just need to go lick myself I suppose

Great feeling to be able to fix/replace small things on your bike

nicksnikita · 14-03-2021 12:20pm

LikeTheseOdds wrote: »

Was cleaning my bike today and degreasing / lubing the chain.

I think I may need to replace my chain and get some new tyres for summer.

The chain was in the biggest at the front & and the smallest and largest at the back.

Took a couple of pics of nicks my tyres have picked up.

Fair to see they all need replacing?

E: Approx 1500km done on bike.

I'd be changing those tyres. Puncture waiting to happen in my experience..

EDit · 14-03-2021 1:16pm

EDit wrote: »

You might be right. Just looked at Shimano website and it seems the short cage R8000 ultegra derailleur can accommodate up to 11-30, so it is possible that my bike (2019 Giant TCR Advanced Pro disc) has the short cage version. Annoyingly, the giant website and all booklets that came with the bike don’t mention cage size. I’ll have to try and find out if you can tell which cage you have from it’s length/dimensions

Edit: just found out that the plastic part between the 2 sprockets has the size written on it (ss = small; gs = medium). Mine has ss, so is small.

Have decided to swap over to medium cage rear derailleur and to stick on a new chain...

online videos i’ve seen suggest that you determine your chain length by putting the chain on the two largest cogs (front and back) but not through the rear derailleur and pulling tight, then adding two links. Is this the best method or are there better ways to determine the optimal length of the chain?

magicbastarder · 14-03-2021 3:59pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

I'd be changing those tyres. Puncture waiting to happen in my experience..

i've cycled on worse. as mentioned by someone else, as long as it's not through the weave of the tyre, they should be fine.

magicbastarder · 14-03-2021 4:01pm

EDit wrote: »

Is this the best method or are there better ways to determine the optimal length of the chain?

another method is to go small-small, with the chain running through the RD, and pull the chain tight enough so that it's not fouling against the RD.

LikeTheseOdds · 14-03-2021 5:33pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i wouldn't be too worried about those nicks, but it's worth deflating the tyres so you can pinch them and open up the nicks to pick out anything which might be caught in them; the 4th pic has a nick which looks like it could still be occupied.

you should be able to pick up a chain wear checker in many shops, i think i paid under a tenner in halfords. based on this article, it's probably near the end of its life though:
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/08/bicycle-chain-wear-and-checking-for-it/

edit: should have refreshed the page before typing!

There was indeed. A little piece of glass. 1st attachment. 1 in the rear too, I got that out as well!

CramCycle wrote: »

I suspect your chainring is worn quite well but its hard to tell, can you take a pic without the chain on it?

The tyres look grand

Took some pics when i got my bike back today.

Type 17 · 14-03-2021 6:12pm

EDit wrote: »

...putting the chain on the two largest cogs (front and back) but not through the rear derailleur and pulling tight, then adding two links. Is this the best method or are there better ways to determine the optimal length of the chain?

magicbastarder wrote: »

another method is to go small-small, with the chain running through the RD, and pull the chain tight enough so that it's not fouling against the RD.

The official Shimano method* for road bikes and most hybrids is to put the chain on the big front ring and smallest rear sprocket, feed the chain through the RD as normal and then size it so that the bolts holding the two jockey wheels are vertical.

*Shimano only recommend this method for drivetrains with largest rear sprockets of 32 teeth or less - for MTB and other setups, especially if trying something unorthodox (eg; mixing groupsets, trying extra-big cassettes, etc), I use both of the other methods above, to be doubly-sure before closing the pins or speed-links.

nicksnikita · 14-03-2021 7:24pm

LikeTheseOdds wrote: »

There was indeed. A little piece of glass. 1st attachment. 1 in the rear too, I got that out as well!

Took some pics when i got my bike back today.

Chainring looks fine - not excessively worn

Effects · 15-03-2021 9:44am

Had an issue last weekend, and seems I've shorn off the threads on the left side crank on a Tiagra 4700.
Am I right to think you can't buy them individually?

CramCycle · 15-03-2021 11:25am

Effects wrote: »

Had an issue last weekend, and seems I've shorn off the threads on the left side crank on a Tiagra 4700.
Am I right to think you can't buy them individually?

You can buy them individually, SJS and the like will have them. Consider this though:
1. You might pick up a 2nd hand crankset which will fit which is probably cheaper 2. Personally if you have the cash, you might get the whole crankset (therefore two new chainrings) for very little more.
3. Last option is to get the crank retapped, CSS done this for me years ago for €20 so worth a try if cash is tight.

Effects · 15-03-2021 1:03pm

It's got ridges, if that's what they are called, and that's what's worn, as opposed to the threads of the hex bolts that hold the crank in place. So not sure if it can be tapped.

I think to replace the whole set is about €70. It's on my daily bike, which gets a lot of abuse, and I only run it on the smaller front ring anyway.
Have some kind of slippage problem that I haven't got to the bottom of yet either!

CramCycle · 15-03-2021 1:12pm

Effects wrote: »

It's got ridges, if that's what they are called, and that's what's worn, as opposed to the threads of the hex bolts that hold the crank in place. So not sure if it can be tapped.

I think to replace the whole set is about €70. It's on my daily bike, which gets a lot of abuse, and I only run it on the smaller front ring anyway.
Have some kind of slippage problem that I haven't got to the bottom of yet either!

Ah, I presumed it was the pedal part. Not sure if they can be done or not. Here are prices for you

Whole crankset €80 from Rose (34/48, others sizes are more 170mm), Bike 24 and others will also have them for similar prices
Left Crank €60 from SJS

At least if you order the full one you can tick the chainrings off possible reasons.

cletus · 15-03-2021 1:14pm

Effects wrote: »

It's got ridges, if that's what they are called, and that's what's worn, as opposed to the threads of the hex bolts that hold the crank in place. So not sure if it can be tapped.

I think to replace the whole set is about €70. It's on my daily bike, which gets a lot of abuse, and I only run it on the smaller front ring anyway.
Have some kind of slippage problem that I haven't got to the bottom of yet either!

Put up a picture, should be easy tell if its repairable

CramCycle · 15-03-2021 1:20pm

Also, while the right arm of this set isn't compatible, the left arm should be:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-fc-e8050-crank-arms/rp-prod198744?gs=1&sku=sku798745&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScOTztTkl8fK27sz_6JZu2koTkUXEwUijUgWtFHMPGGpt4jwvfyA5WcaAhRJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&mx01=a&mx02=a

Although I accept no responsibility if I am wrong.

Effects · 15-03-2021 2:29pm

Here's a few images. Seems the bottom bracket might have been too wide, so full contact wasn't made, putting more pressure where contact was made.

cletus · 15-03-2021 2:55pm

Tapping only refers to circular threads. They are splines that are worn. They might be broached or machined. Either way, your not repairing them

Effects · 15-03-2021 8:24pm

Splines. Good to know what they are called!

Rowley Birkin QC · 15-03-2021 8:27pm

I'm very much a fair weather cyclist and I've never really done any maintenance on my road bike, Kelly's Arc 3.0. I'm also taking the thread title at face value.

I bought one of these Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber after noticing my chain looked a bit (a lot) grubby.

I don't have a bike stand and don't really fancy taking the rear wheel off. Can I clean the chain with the wheels in place? Beyond running the chain through the gadget, is there any other easy maintenance I can do to it?

Thanks! I did have a look at the first page but there didn't seem to be a sticky list of questions.

magicbastarder · 15-03-2021 8:32pm

park tools have a video on chain cleaning, and i think it features that very cleaner:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuwS_nSevy4

nicksnikita · 15-03-2021 8:38pm

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I'm very much a fair weather cyclist and I've never really done any maintenance on my road bike, Kelly's Arc 3.0. I'm also taking the thread title at face value.

I bought one of these Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber after noticing my chain looked a bit (a lot) grubby.

I don't have a bike stand and don't really fancy taking the rear wheel off. Can I clean the chain with the wheels in place? Beyond running the chain through the gadget, is there any other easy maintenance I can do to it?

Thanks! I did have a look at the first page but there didn't seem to be a sticky list of questions.

Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

Fill the scrubber with your chosen cleaner, stand the bike against a wall, put the scrubber in place and turn your pedal crank arm backwards for 30 or 40 revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

When it dries, apply your choice of lube.

Then look up how to remove rear wheel and clean the cassette - you'll hate how filthy it looks in comparison to the chain :-)

cletus · 15-03-2021 8:39pm

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I'm very much a fair weather cyclist and I've never really done any maintenance on my road bike, Kelly's Arc 3.0. I'm also taking the thread title at face value.

I bought one of these Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber after noticing my chain looked a bit (a lot) grubby.

I don't have a bike stand and don't really fancy taking the rear wheel off. Can I clean the chain with the wheels in place? Beyond running the chain through the gadget, is there any other easy maintenance I can do to it?

Thanks! I did have a look at the first page but there didn't seem to be a sticky list of questions.

There's lots of things you could do, depending on your time, inclination and tool selection, but if your just tipping around doing a bit of leisure cycling, wash and lube the chain every so often, and leave everything else alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

Rowley Birkin QC · 15-03-2021 8:41pm

Super, thanks everyone! I don't have much space where I'm based at the moment but will have access to a workshop and shed over the coming months so will be back for more maintenance tips and when I break something! :-)

CianRyan · 15-03-2021 10:47pm

Does anyone have a lead on spare parts for lower end legacy Shimano groupsets?

I have 2006/7 era Tiagra levers and the hoods are simply manky/falling apart from my acid sweat. As I'm.not about to buy a whole new groupsets, I was wondering if there's anywhere that does replacement parts for older bikes?
Or alternatively, would any newer hoods be likely to fit?

I'm thinking of buying a new bike next summer so I don't won't to drop a bomb on what is already quite outdated.

8valve · 15-03-2021 10:56pm

CianRyan wrote: »

Does anyone have a lead on spare parts for lower end legacy Shimano groupsets?

I have 2006/7 era Tiagra levers and the hoods are simply manky/falling apart from my acid sweat. As I'm.not about to buy a whole new groupsets, I was wondering if there's anywhere that does replacement parts for older bikes?
Or alternatively, would any newer hoods be likely to fit?

I'm thinking of buying a new bike next summer so I don't won't to drop a bomb on what is already quite outdated.

There's a crowd called Hudz, who do reproduction hoods for shimano stuff in a variety of colours. You might be able to find something in their range?

CianRyan · 15-03-2021 11:57pm

I had a quick looks, seems I am no longer catered for.
I'm starting to think I may need new levels just to get new hoods, if I can get 9 speed 105, I'd probably get a front derailleur and crankset to complete the set, the rest is 105 now.

LollipopJimmy · 16-03-2021 12:03am

CianRyan wrote: »

I had a quick looks, seems I am no longer catered for.
I'm starting to think I may need new levels just to get new hoods, if I can get 9 speed 105, I'd probably get a front derailleur and crankset to complete the set, the rest is 105 now.

Have you tried the antiques roadshow? :pac:

Ebay is potentially your only friend here tbh

CianRyan · 16-03-2021 12:22am

Nearly 30 years old but I'm desperate.

New Tiagra 10 speed could be a go of my wheel/rear mech would take a 10 speed cassette but honestly I'm clueless and it's not a good feeling. :pac:

Edit: Wheels are 2013 Ksyrium Equip S and the rear derailleur is a 2006 model 105.

Effects · 16-03-2021 11:41am

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I don't have a bike stand and don't really fancy taking the rear wheel off.

It's easier with the wheel on anyway. You don't need to run the chain in the direction that moves the wheels. But it needs to travel in a certain direction according to the cleaner.
But as posted above, those Park Tool videos are always really good.

ednwireland · 16-03-2021 1:20pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

fairy liquid contains salt - i wouldn't use near a bike (or my car !)

07Lapierre · 16-03-2021 4:53pm

ednwireland wrote: »

fairy liquid contains salt - i wouldn't use near a bike (or my car !)

Its kind to your hands though

Mundo7976 · 17-03-2021 5:52pm

New bike day, lots of new to me components. Am capable of tinkering around, but will have plenty of questions for ye.

First up, theres 700 x 28c tyres on the wheels() can I change them for my 35c that im used to?

Type 17 · 17-03-2021 5:55pm

The rims should be fine if they already have 28's, but you need to have enough clearance in the (rim brakes) and the frame and forks.

PS: Try the 28's, there isn't much difference...

8valve · 17-03-2021 5:57pm

32s are also an option, if you don't have the clearance for 35s, as Type17 mentioned.

Mundo7976 · 17-03-2021 6:09pm

Thanks folks. Theres good clearance. Think ill do a trial by error!

jap gt · 17-03-2021 7:43pm

Few newbie questions, I bought a bike today second hand, a lapierre, it came with 25-622 tyres, now I'm a big man (hopefully cycling will reduce this) I'm looking for a steer towards a better suited tyre thinking maybe 28-32, also if I change the tyre must I change the tube as well It says 25-32 on the tube

CantGetNoSleep · 17-03-2021 7:47pm

No should be fine - main issue is more likely to be frame clearance

iamtony · 17-03-2021 8:55pm

http://<img src="https://uploadimage.org/images/2021/03/17/20210317_192933.jpg" alt="20210317 192933" border="0">

Type 17 · 17-03-2021 8:59pm

iamtony · 17-03-2021 9:42pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Oh thanks I got distracted haha thought I deleted and was going to try again.

Anyway my son has one of those fiido D1 EBikes(I know) and the pads are gone on the rear. I'm trying to order some and the ones I see online just seem to be little magnetic discs which is fine to fit the inside pad on the piston but the outside pad seems to be built into the adjuster. Anyone know if I'm right?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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