the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

tomasrojo · 17-08-2020 4:39pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

I did this on my tourer. It did get rid of chain slap, but now if I cross-chain the chain jams. If you can be in the big chain ring and remember not to gear all the way down at the rear, it's fine.

I do know it's generally regarded as a bad practice, but I do it by accident sometimes. It's a triple though. Might not happen in a double?

CormacH94 · 19-08-2020 8:13am

What is the story with -17 degree stems being so expensive? Any I've seen are about 90 quid? Is this something to do with them having to be more stiff due to the angle?

Got my hopes up when I seen Ritchey had one for under 30 - but it's for 1 1/4 steerer...

magicbastarder · 19-08-2020 9:36am

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

CormacH94 · 19-08-2020 11:06am

magicbastarder wrote: »

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

True

If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?

Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

ironictoaster · 19-08-2020 9:08pm

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

CramCycle · 19-08-2020 9:26pm

CormacH94 wrote: »

True

If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?

Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

-17 would leave it flat but depending on your stem length and where you want the bars, you could achieve it in other ways. What length of a stem were you planning with the -17 and do you have any room to move its position up or down by moving spacers?

crosstownk · 19-08-2020 10:21pm

ironictoaster wrote: »

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

I use an Altura Pocket Rocket. It packs small and tidy and fits nicely in my jersey pocket. The zip is dodgy and has been since I bought it four years ago but I can live with it.

It’s great at keeping me dry from the rain and perfect for showery weather or an hour or two of persistent rain.

grogi · 20-08-2020 11:22am

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:

replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads
greased the seat tube
greased all the spokes where they touch each other
greased the frame where it touches the axle
checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

Weepsie · 20-08-2020 11:25am

Pushing hard on the pedals, but you havn't mentioned anything about doing anything to the pedals? My shoes sometimes rub off the cranks and give an annoying squeek.

Cleats too somehow gave an annoying squak at one point.

dahat · 20-08-2020 11:26am

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

grogi · 20-08-2020 11:31am

Weepsie wrote: »

Pushing hard on the pedals, but you havn't mentioned anything about doing anything to the pedals? My shoes sometimes rub off the cranks and give an annoying squeek.

Cleats too somehow gave an annoying squak at one point.

dahat wrote: »

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

Thanks, that's really worth checking out.

I don't use cycling shoes, have an old fashioned bear-claws pedals with that are super wide, but will definately pay attention next time.

magicbastarder · 20-08-2020 11:40am

grogi wrote: »

[*]greased all the spokes where they touch each other

it doesn't usually result in a squeak, but you could also try greasing the spoke nipples where they contact the rim.

loyatemu · 20-08-2020 11:46am

have you checked the cranks and pedals themselves, grease the threads then tighten well...

brownian · 20-08-2020 3:54pm

grogi wrote: »

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:
replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads

greased the seat tube

greased all the spokes where they touch each other

greased the frame where it touches the axle

checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

Check the stem bolts and headset. Hard pushing also means more pressure at the front end.

magicbastarder · 20-08-2020 4:04pm

best to just hose the bike down in WD40 to be sure.

(note - i sprayed some light oil onto my cleats last week cos one was squeaking as i pedalled. within 1km of heading out, i fluffed a clip in, and my foot slipped off the pedal and i mashed my shin into the pedal)

8valve · 20-08-2020 5:04pm

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

Nowadays, when cycling, if I hear a creak, I ask myself ''Is that me, or the bike?'' :-)

Type 17 · 20-08-2020 6:14pm

8valve wrote: »

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:

Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub
dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)
seatpost head - saddle fastening
Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design)
pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

dahat · 21-08-2020 8:11am

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

gaffmaster · 21-08-2020 8:43am

dahat wrote: »

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

You could buy or borrow one 28c tyre and check if it fits your current setup before making costly upgrades. I've managed to squeeze a 28c into Ultegra 6700 brake caliper before. The overall inflation size depends on the wheel's rim width and the tyre in question.

grogi · 21-08-2020 11:10am

Big thanks to everyone that replied with ideas...

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:
Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub

Through axles, tighten properly...

dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)

Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...

seatpost head - saddle fastening

Played with that, lubed here as well. I'll take the seat post completely off the bike.

Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design

Nothing of such in my frame.

pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

That is the most probable curprit to be fair...

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

I realize that - hense I lubed the whole seat post. I might actually completely take it off to rule that out.

cletus · 21-08-2020 2:09pm

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

21-08-2020 4:26pm

I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like.

I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p

cletus · 21-08-2020 4:31pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like.

I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p

I saw that too, in my, admittedly modest, searching. I came to the same conclusion as you; they are very likely empty, which brings us back to the original issue.

Something like this is what I'm after, but God knows the cost.

ProToolBoxCheck_2_7ffb5a85-6733-434c-9ad2-beb449e2d084.jpg?v=1579636044

ProToolBoxCheck_2_7ffb5a85-6733-434c-9ad2-beb449e2d084.jpg?v=1579636044

magicbastarder · 21-08-2020 5:03pm

i have something like this - just a readily available stanley toolbox, but cantilevered with sections in the two shelves.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-1-92-911-Mega-Line-CantiLever-Tool-Box-Black-Yellow-/223115395724

Type 17 · 21-08-2020 7:52pm

Type 17 wrote: »

...dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)

grogi wrote: »

Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...

Sorry, not that well-written - this issue came up for me - a new bike, silent bars and stem, as you'd expect - went out in the rain for the first time (a good soaking), and afterwards the stem/bars interface, and the stem-fork interface had developed a creak whenever any pressure was applied.
Took it all apart, and there was a small amount of fine powder/grit washed into parts of the facing surfaces, which seemed to be causing the creaks.
I wiped it all down, and brushed on a thin film of grease, and never heard a creak again, despite many more wet rides.

woody33 · 21-08-2020 9:46pm

Sorry but...can't get rid of v-brake squeal. No noise till I got new pads, I've cleaned the rim and pads and tried various toe-in or no toe-in settings, no difference. The front wheel is very slightly out of true, I admit. Could it be the pads? They are cheap eBay ones, but I've bought from the same UK guy before.

swarlb · 22-08-2020 11:50am

cletus wrote: »

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

https://www.efox.ie/index.php

This company can make hard sponge 'cutouts' for tools and spanners. All they need is measurement or an outline of the tool required. These are usually to fit in tool box drawers, or briefcase type boxes.

grogi · 22-08-2020 12:00pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

So I took the seat post competely from the bike and no creaks/squicks at all. This time I could push much harder in silence, until I hit a bit of chain rub...

The chain rub needs tiny little bit of extra tension on the cable, but what the hell to do with the seat post? I'll try lubing the inside of seat-tube and seat-post...

Thanks for ideas!

Kerry_2008 · 22-08-2020 12:17pm

Hi All, I am just asking for some advice. I have had a merida Matt's MTB for a few years now. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-au/bike/364/matts-65v. The past few years I have mainly used it on my commute so just swapped out the wheels for hybrid tyres.

I haven't cycled in the past year as I have problems with my back and chest that are made worse by my leaning position on the bike. I tried a friends bike the last day and it was an upright style da Vinci bike with the dutch style handle bars. My seating position was practically upright. I was able to do the Waterford Greenaway with no ill effects.

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

grogi · 22-08-2020 12:30pm

Kerry_2008 wrote: »

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

I did exactly opposite to my old throw around - replaced the handle bars from relaxed Dutch style to something more aggressive. It looks like a proper hybrid now.

I think it definately is worth exploring, but might be much more cost effective to just get a second hand Dutch cruiser...

8valve · 22-08-2020 9:02pm

cletus wrote: »

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

Halfords are usually good for toolbox bargains.

My better half is a TCM health practitioner so I got her a Stanley solid-based toolbag for 30 quid, for carting around her equipment; added security and discretion as nobody gives it a second glance. Male patients get a great laugh out of it.

I bought one of their steel drawer toolboxes in a sale and paid less than 40 quid for it. Decent quality, too.

8valve · 22-08-2020 9:11pm

Kerry_2008 wrote: »

Hi All, I am just asking for some advice. I have had a merida Matt's MTB for a few years now. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-au/bike/364/matts-65v. The past few years I have mainly used it on my commute so just swapped out the wheels for hybrid tyres.

I haven't cycled in the past year as I have problems with my back and chest that are made worse by my leaning position on the bike. I tried a friends bike the last day and it was an upright style da Vinci bike with the dutch style handle bars. My seating position was practically upright. I was able to do the Waterford Greenaway with no ill effects.

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

Absolutely worth doing if it gives you comfort/pain relief when cycling.

Have done this for a family member and it transformed their cycling experience for the better!

All you need to buy is an adjustable stem, dutch style handlebars of your choice, and treat yourself to a new pair of grips, so you can cut the old ones off, to make life easier!

Everything else can be just loosened to take them off the old bars and slipped into position on the new bars.

woody33 · 23-08-2020 4:57pm

woody33 wrote: »

Sorry but...can't get rid of v-brake squeal. No noise till I got new pads, I've cleaned the rim and pads and tried various toe-in or no toe-in settings, no difference. The front wheel is very slightly out of true, I admit. Could it be the pads? They are cheap eBay ones, but I've bought from the same UK guy before.

More extensive rim/pad cleaning, no difference. So, I cleaned off the half-worn Tektro branded pads I had taken removed and Lo! the squeak has gone!
Anyone have a favourite v-brake pad brand? Clarks cartridge type maybe?

Deano12345 · 27-08-2020 11:36pm

Anyone have any idea where I might get some small Zipp stickers? I’ve gotten a sprint sl stem that I’ll need to re-do the lacquer on, and it’s got the old zipp logo on it and I’d prefer the newer style.

Had a look around eBay/Amazon and nothing!

keane2097 · 28-08-2020 10:56am

ironictoaster wrote: »

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

The Galibier stuff always gets a good rep around here

https://galibier.cc/

I have the Tempest Pro rain jacket and in terms of bang for buck I couldn't fault it.

CantGetNoSleep · 30-08-2020 5:42pm

I've got a bike with the older RS505 hydraulic disc brakes (these were used with the previous version of the 105 groupset) and I've never been happy with the rear brake - it completely loses power every few weeks and you pull the lever and hit the handlebar without really slowing down at all. Yesterday I bled it, sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors. Was perfect at the start of the ride but after a long cobbled section (to be fair it was almost 5km on proper cobbles) the brake was completely gone again, essentially no stopping power at all from the rear brake which isn't very confidence inducing. Even pumping the lever wouldn't get it back working.

I've checked the bleed screw on the shifter and on the caliper and both seem to be sealed ok and the small ring is there and intact so I don't know if this is where air is getting into the system? Do I need to change the hoses entirely? Is there anywhere else I can check?

Would changing to 105 7000 shifters give any improvement in braking reliability? The RS505 are not that well thought of but I thought that this is due to them being too big and not the most comfortable. This is my bad weather bike so it is annoying to leave it for a few weeks and have to hope the brake is working the day before going out for a spin.

Also linked question - I've got an RS785 front caliper (this was the old Ultegra level). Are front and rear disc calipers the same?

cletus · 30-08-2020 6:01pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've got a bike with the older RS505 hydraulic disc brakes (these were used with the previous version of the 105 groupset) and I've never been happy with the rear brake - it completely loses power every few weeks and you pull the lever and hit the handlebar without really slowing down at all. Yesterday I bled it, sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors. Was perfect at the start of the ride but after a long cobbled section (to be fair it was almost 5km on proper cobbles) the brake was completely gone again, essentially no stopping power at all from the rear brake which isn't very confidence inducing. Even pumping the lever wouldn't get it back working.

I've checked the bleed screw on the shifter and on the caliper and both seem to be sealed ok and the small ring is there and intact so I don't know if this is where air is getting into the system? Do I need to change the hoses entirely? Is there anywhere else I can check?

Would changing to 105 7000 shifters give any improvement in braking reliability? The RS505 are not that well thought of but I thought that this is due to them being too big and not the most comfortable. This is my bad weather bike so it is annoying to leave it for a few weeks and have to hope the brake is working the day before going out for a spin.

Also linked question - I've got an RS785 front caliper (this was the old Ultegra level). Are front and rear disc calipers the same?

If it was me, I'd be trying to establish what's actually happening when you pull the brakes and have no braking power.

Is the caliper moving? If so, is it moving enough to contact the pads with the disc? The action at the caliper should determine what your next step is to rectify the problem

CantGetNoSleep · 30-08-2020 6:04pm

cletus wrote: »

If it was me, I'd be trying to establish what's actually happening when you pull the brakes and have no braking power.

Is the caliper moving? If so, is it moving enough to contact the pads with the disc? The action at the caliper should determine what your next step is to rectify the problem

The caliper does move but barely comes into contact with the disc rotor, not enough to stop the bike and barely even to slow it. You could probably ride with the lever pressed in

cletus · 30-08-2020 6:13pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

The caliper does move but barely comes into contact with the disc rotor, not enough to stop the bike and barely even to slow it. You could probably ride with the lever pressed in

Do you have to top up the brake fluid at all? If it needs to be topped up, you're losing it somewhere, because it should be a closed system. If you're not having to top it up, then you're getting air in somewhere. I'd start at one end, and check every join and seal as if you were doing it for the first time.

A good mantra for jobs like this is "Never trust the work the came before you, especially if it's your own"

fat bloke · 31-08-2020 12:39pm

Are 1x groupsets all disc braked, or is there such a thing as a 1x rim braked (road) set up?

joey100 · 01-09-2020 9:00am

Recently bought a set of Prime 38 wheels off wiggle. Came set up for quick release so bought the conversion kit to convert them to thru axle. Front was fine no issues. But on the back, when I tightened the conversion kit the freehub won't spin. Even if I tighten by hand, if i leave it loose the freehub spins tho. I'm probably missing something very simple but just can't figure it out.

Link to the rear conversion kit, https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-rd020-conversion-kit-12mm-x-142mm

CantGetNoSleep · 01-09-2020 11:10am

cletus wrote: »

Do you have to top up the brake fluid at all? If it needs to be topped up, you're losing it somewhere, because it should be a closed system. If you're not having to top it up, then you're getting air in somewhere. I'd start at one end, and check every join and seal as if you were doing it for the first time.

A good mantra for jobs like this is "Never trust the work the came before you, especially if it's your own"

Thanks - I can get it fixed by doing a "mini bleed" (where you just add attach the bleed cup & some fluid to the shifter and don't do a full bleed). You get the air bubbles out but it doesn't seem like a huge amount of liquid goes in. Normally this lasts a few weeks but this weekend it was gone again after one ride. It feels better now than it did out on the ride which makes me think it is air, but I couldn't rule out liquid escaping, possibly at the pistons.

I'm going to check where the brake hose connects to the shifter in case there is any issue there. If not it is probably a trip to the bike shop.

rayman1 · 01-09-2020 9:06pm

Will an 11-34 cassette work with a short cage Ultegra rear derailleur?
I know it's not recommended by Shimano but they are being very conservative.

cletus · 01-09-2020 9:14pm

I wanted to be able to carry just my own bike, without having to put on the 4 bike towbar rack, so I was looking at roof racks. Bought Halfords own rack on a whim, as it was 36 quid.

Tried setting it up this evening, and while all the adjustments are easy to make, in order to make the clamp reach the downtube, i'd have to move the roof bars ridiculously cloce together, to the point where they would be essentially useless for carrying anything else.

Time for the question. Do all roof racks require the roof bars to be quite close together, or is it just this set

brownian · 02-09-2020 4:57pm

No, most roof racks for bikes that I've had leave the bars in the usual place (about as far apart as the car allows, on non-estates). The bike rack has a relatively fixed point for the front bar, and the attachment point for the rear bar slides along the bike rack...hope that makes sense.

If you already have a tow bar, then (sorry!) you really want a 2-bike 'click on, click off' carrier liek the Thule 970 Xpress...that really is handy, and the rack I use far and away the most often. 65-80 euro; CRC or MicksGarage the obvious candidates.

cletus · 02-09-2020 6:35pm

brownian wrote: »

No, most roof racks for bikes that I've had leave the bars in the usual place (about as far apart as the car allows, on non-estates). The bike rack has a relatively fixed point for the front bar, and the attachment point for the rear bar slides along the bike rack...hope that makes sense.

If you already have a tow bar, then (sorry!) you really want a 2-bike 'click on, click off' carrier liek the Thule 970 Xpress...that really is handy, and the rack I use far and away the most often. 65-80 euro; CRC or MicksGarage the obvious candidates.

Thanks for the response. The roof rack I bought had the front fixed point at the hinge for the down tube clamp. Silly setup.

I already have a 4 bike towbar rack, don't really want to get another one and have the hassle of storing two.

I brought back the Halfords one today, and ordered a Thule rack, so we'll see

crosstownk · 02-09-2020 10:20pm

Plenty of cars and vans have fixed mounting points for transverse bars so it seems unlikely (or silly) that bars should require repositioning.

xckjoo · 04-09-2020 3:55pm

Question about if I need to replace a tyre or just a tube.

The young lad burst his tyre by cycling straight into a curb :rolleyes:. The inner tube is obvious gone but the sidewall of the tyre has a hole/slice in it now too. Do I need to replace the whole tyre or will the outward pressure from an intact tube be enough? From memory, the slice is around the size of a thumbnail

07Lapierre · 04-09-2020 4:07pm

xckjoo wrote: »

Question about if I need to replace a tyre or just a tube.

The young lad burst his tyre by cycling straight into a curb :rolleyes:. The inner tube is obvious gone but the sidewall of the tyre has a hole/slice in it now too. Do I need to replace the whole tyre or will the outward pressure from an intact tube be enough? From memory, the slice is around the size of a thumbnail

Sounds like you need a tyre and a tube.

CramCycle · 04-09-2020 4:22pm

Has the slice gone through or is it just on the surface?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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