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The eBike thread

12357…38

Comments

  • #202
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    BarryM wrote: »
    Neither can I !

    Attached is a pic of the data from the front hub.

    If it was BB it would be Bafang?

    Probably Bafang alright, that motor is around 35 Nm of torque which isn't a lot, their 500 Watt is about 50 Nm.

    If you like hubs, a MAC 8 or 10T with 52 volts and 40 amp controller, would be about 2 Kw. 8T would do about 48 Km/h and the 10T about 43 Km/h but have more torque.

    a 35 amp controller would give you 100 Nm torque from 0-10 Km/h and at 20 Km/h you still got 70 Nm torque, that's a lot of torque ! :-)


  • #203
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Deleted User wrote: »
    a 35 amp controller would give you 100 Nm torque from 0-10 Km/h and at 20 Km/h you still got 70 Nm torque, that's a lot of torque ! :-)

    A 1987 Citroen 2CV had a maximum 38Nm of torque. And that's a car!

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  • #204
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    A 1987 Citroen 2CV had a maximum 38Nm of torque. And that's a car!

    lol, God bless electric motors and Lithium batteries ! :D

    But it's amazing what you can do with a gearbox. Enough HP and that 38 Nm of torque can do a lot.


  • #205
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Deleted User wrote: »
    lol, God bless electric motors and Lithium batteries ! :D

    But it's amazing what you can do with a gearbox. Enough HP and that 38 Nm of torque can do a lot.

    It had 29BHP :p

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  • #206
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    It had 29BHP :p

    Yeah plenty to get from 0-100 in about 50 seconds with the wind in it's back. :D


  • #207
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I think I remember from my youth that some of the earlier models did not have an official 0-100km/h acceleration timing, as they couldn't make it :p

    Mind, they could be driven faster than most people drive their Nissan Leafs even today :pac:

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  • #208
    krissovo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    unkel wrote: »
    A 1987 Citroen 2CV had a maximum 38Nm of torque. And that's a car!

    I spent the best part of a 4 week European summer road trip with 3 friends in my teens trying to tip over the 1980’s 2CV we had. Every sharp bend or roundabout we were hanging out the rag top and leaning over. Impossible to tip and great fun were my lasting impressions.

    Another impression is that my e-bike has far superior acceleration and it can actually climb a hill without getting off and pushing.


  • #209
    BarryM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 837 ✭✭✭BarryM


    krissovo wrote: »
    I spent the best part of a 4 week European summer road trip with 3 friends in my teens

    you wild thing....:)
    Another impression is that my e-bike has far superior acceleration and it can actually climb a hill without getting off and pushing.

    Have you a spec?


  • #210
    BarryM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 837 ✭✭✭BarryM


    Thanks for that, I am in contact with Jorvik for a swap.


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  • #211
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    tldr alert.

    The Bafang BBSHD has a maximum (output) torque of 160 Nm at the cranks. As it has an internal reduction ratio of 1:21.9 it means that the electric motor itself has about 7.3 Nm. As my particular bicycle has gear ratio of 46:32-11 it means that the torque at the rear wheel hub on the 10th gear would be about 40 Nm and on the 1st gear 111 Nm.

    The 1979 2CV has 1:1.47 gear ratio on the top gear which means that the 2CV has only about 10 Nn more torque at the driving wheels on the top gear than my bike. Which is not a lot :-) The first gear torque is on 145 Nm and the fully loaded car with 3 grown ups and their luggage weighs easily 800 kilograms vs. about 110 kg for my bike and me. And the bike also has pedals to assist it uphills. And the peak torque from a 40 yo 2CV might be less than the stated figure and in any case only appears at one particular point at 3750 rpm.

    The 2018 LEAF has about 2900 Nm of wheel torque so it's the overall winner of these three on the sprint to Sally Gap.

    PS. a 1979 2CV has only 28 Nm of torque so it fares even worse than my calcs using the given figure of 35 Nm.

    Above calcs also omit the wheel size which helps the cars 15-17 inches instead of 28 on my bike.


  • #212
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Interesting.

    I must go to the motor simulator to see what 60 amps battery power would have translated in torque in my 8T mac motor, it was amazing.

    I ran 80 Amps ( battery current ) through a small direct drive motor, a conhismotor, similar to the one unkel got only it was rear wheel of course, that translated to about 5,500 watts, you can't beat LiPo batteries !


  • #213
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    LiPo is the way to go alright for proper power = Amps. The BBSHD at full chat is too much for my battery, not that it matters in my particular use case.

    And just to reiterate. The BBSHD installed in a 2CV would result in the best climbing 2CV in the world but with a top speed of probably around 5 km/h or less on the top gear. The max revs of BBSHD is about 150 rpm versus about 6000 for the 2CV engine. That's why Citroen has 30 hp and the Bafang about 2.


  • #214
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Just can't beat electric motors full stop !

    I'd love an AWD i3, 400 HP now that would be something lol.

    LiPo is great and cheap to build up a pack and one someone knows what they're doing with it and how to charge/store/discharge it it's fine. Some enourmous amps can be pulled from it and the newer Graphene cells have fantastic specs, 1000+ cycles and mega C rates, it's expensive but normal LiPo is more than good enough for ebike use.

    20 C Turnigy is the job !


  • #215
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    My 36V 4Ah battery cost €45 including shipping. And will have a range of possibly 15-20km. And will cost about €0.02 to charge at the night rate. You can't beat electric for sure :D

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  • #216
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    My 36V 4Ah battery cost €45 including shipping. And will have a range of possibly 15-20km. And will cost about €0.02 to charge at the night rate. You can't beat electric for sure :D

    Just be careful where you store and charge that battery.


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  • #217
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Shed

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  • #218
    BarryM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 837 ✭✭✭BarryM


    Jaysus, just reading that tech stuff about a bike makes me feel tired ;) I never realised there was so much know-how required to ride a bike.


  • #219
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    [Deleted User] wrote: »
    That's in US Dollars ?

    Hard to know really , they are Bafang hubs and usually get good reviews however I have no experience with this motor so can't say for sure and it would depend on your expectations of the level of power delivered.

    Hub motors are great, especially geared hubs because they have a clutch that disengages the mechanical connection from the wheel completely when no power is applied to the motor which makes peddling with no motor power much much easier than what they call direct drive motors + they have more torque for the same power.

    Depends on the power that is actually being fed, ignore the 200 Watt rating because most of the time it's many times more but I can not say for sure, if it's really 200 watts being pulled from the battery chances are it would be very weak but you'd have to review this setup.

    Perhaps if you can find the motor model number I can check it out ?

    My favourite ebike setup was a em3ev.com Mac 8T hub motor, I was feeding it 2 Kw to begin with and it was super even on hills, I modded it to 3 Kw and it was amazing !

    Now the thing is that chain drive or crank drives are more suited to lower power because they are more efficient only because they can use the bikes gearing and are best suited to very slow steep long trails.

    So depending on the motor setup, your terrain and what kind of power you expect to put into peddling.

    Most of the big ebike companies, Bosch for instance are running 700 Watts peak or at least that's what's being pulled from the battery, and so we don't know whether the ebike limit of 250 watts for Europe for instance is motor power or battery power. But either way no one cares about power because power isn't tested and this is not what gives them their certification , it's the acceleration and top speed that makes them legal in the end, oh and of course the 250 watt sticker just to keep legislators happy ! :-)

    Even a geared hub at 500-1 Kw will provide very good assistance.

    Thanks for the feedback buddy.

    I went to the shop to get details of the motor and one of the staff members advised they were popular with uber eats drivers who had bought them and after a few weeks they were generally unhappy with them.

    So taking all that into consideration I'm now looking at a 500w geared hub.

    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html

    I looked at em3ev but seems expensive, I think the above kit is better value.

    I'll look at getting a cheap doner bike next.


  • #220
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback buddy.

    I went to the shop to get details of the motor and one of the staff members advised they were popular with uber eats drivers who had bought them and after a few weeks they were generally unhappy with them.

    So taking all that into consideration I'm now looking at a 500w geared hub.

    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html

    I looked at em3ev but seems expensive, I think the above kit is better value.

    I'll look at getting a cheap doner bike next.

    That will pull about 1 Kw from the battery and should offer decent performance however, at this power level I would opt for a Crank drive shuch as the BBSHD or BBS 02. they will be more efficient and provide much more climbing power due to being able to use the bikes gearing.

    Still the geared hub inthe link above should offer decent performance but I have no experience with it.

    Just remember the import charges if you get stung, customs will look to screw you for the max and if the courier pays this for you they could screw you altogether.


  • #221
    krissovo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    Has anyone stumbled across a semi decent folding ebike? Would be great to have one I can chuck in the boot and take on trips.

    I will test drive the brompton next week but at €2.5k its a little cheeky plus I am right at the weight limit at 110kg. I came across quite a few Chinese Samebike 20LVXD30 in the Netherlands and at €700 looks good value for money, the owners had relatively positive reviews and the weight limit is 120kg.


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  • #222
    Joe1919
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,153 ✭✭✭Joe1919


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback buddy.

    I went to the shop to get details of the motor and one of the staff members advised they were popular with uber eats drivers who had bought them and after a few weeks they were generally unhappy with them.

    So taking all that into consideration I'm now looking at a 500w geared hub.

    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html

    I looked at em3ev but seems expensive, I think the above kit is better value.

    I'll look at getting a cheap doner bike next.

    I bought and fitted a light weight Yose power 350w geared rear hub which is a good buy (imo) but is perhaps a little weak on hills/strong winds if you have weak legs. Delivery time was about 10 days. I arranged my own battery. I have about 4000 mile covered. I have had to replace some broken spokes, which can happen with rear hubs.
    As regards the donor bike, the rear hub come with special washers and the dropouts need about to be about 16mm deep, so I had to file an extra 4mm into the rear dropouts. This may be a problem with some bikes (and owners).
    https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-36V350W-28%22%28700C%29-Rear-Motor-Bicycle-E-Bike-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Black-DIY-E-bike-LCD-Display-128.html


  • #223
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Paul @ em3ev has the option to build heavier duty rims and spokes.


  • #224
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Unless weight is an absolute concern then there no reason to buy tiny hub motors, a MAC 8T, 10, T or 12T motor should be ideal and can run it up to 2 Kw without issue, em3ev sell heavy duty wheel builds + upgraded internal gears and clutch, the newer heavy duty clutch is a lot stronger but go easy on the throttle from standstill and it should last a long time, you can choose any power you want then, for hills a 10 T or 12T MAC motor would be ideal, or for lower power a crank drive would be best.


  • #225
    BarryM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 837 ✭✭✭BarryM


    I said in a previous post -

    "I have a Huzhqu Li i battery 36v 10A; and BFSWZB 36v 250w 170R 24-190 1118485 letters and numbers on the motor."

    Another poster suggested that is a Bafang.

    I just got a mail from the manufacturer, Jorvik, to say that 250w is the only option available for my model.

    So, now my question is, is it possible to get an upgrade somewhere else? Are there compatibility issues? Does an upgrade come as a direct swap wheel/motor? If I upgrade, are there street legal issues, apparently that is the reason there is no upgrade possible in the UK.

    TIA


  • #226
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Waiting for over a month now for the GBP3 charger from China and some XT60 cables. Couldn't bear it anymore so bought a €15 charger locally this evening and a XT60 connector, as I couldn't get any XT connector with a cable already attached (that I can cut and easily crimp to the cable from the charger that I cut up)

    So I had to get out the soldering iron. Let's just say my ironing skills are as close to zero as they get - and it was getting dark too. But by some miracle I did manage to get the job done, so the battery is charging now. Hope to do a range test tomorrow if the weather is ok

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  • #227
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    30 Amp Anderson connectors and Anderson Crimp is your friend.


  • #228
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    You're a bit late with that advice!

    But nah, I'm sticking to XT60. Also 30A and far cheaper and more common standard. And all I need it to do is provide 500W / 36V = under 14A at any time

    Weather not looking good for any leisurely cycling today :(

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  • #229
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    You're a bit late with that advice!

    But nah, I'm sticking to XT60. Also 30A and far cheaper and more common standard. And all I need it to do is provide 500W / 36V = under 14A at any time

    Weather not looking good for any leisurely cycling today :(

    lol I told you about anderson connections ages ago :D

    Andersons are easy to work with esp for multiple pack config, for instance , adding series and parallel packs and if you accidentally create a short the connectors vaporise acting like a fuse ! :D


  • #230
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Deleted User wrote: »
    30 Amp Anderson connectors and Anderson Crimp is your friend.
    unkel wrote: »
    You're a bit late with that advice!

    But nah, I'm sticking to XT60. Also 30A and far cheaper and more common standard. And all I need it to do is provide 500W / 36V = under 14A at any time

    Weather not looking good for any leisurely cycling today :(

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/show...7998924&page=8

    HEHE see told you and you even liked the post !

    Go on ye good thing ! :D


  • #231
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    Hub arrived, after doing 90% off the install I'm now waiting for my gear cassette to arrive.

    Pas sensor ring doesn't seem to fit so I may need to shave it. Anyone address this same issue?


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  • #232
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    Hub arrived, after doing 90% off the install I'm now waiting for my gear cassette to arrive.

    Pas sensor ring doesn't seem to fit so I may need to shave it. Anyone address this same issue?

    U went to what shop ?

    Unfortunately can't help you out with the PAS sensor. No harm leaving it out to be honest.


  • #233
    xckjoo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,397 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    Hub arrived, after doing 90% off the install I'm now waiting for my gear cassette to arrive.

    Pas sensor ring doesn't seem to fit so I may need to shave it. Anyone address this same issue?
    Is it the type with the overlapping "teeth" in the centre? They're supposed to be trimmed to fit as far as I know.

    Edit: I have this type on my newest bike and you can see the extruded bits of the teeth that need to be trimmed to fit. Think I had this type on my old bike. Don't remember having to trim bits but wouldn't worry about doing it. They're purely for grip and to stop it slipping when you peddle.


  • #234
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    [Deleted User] wrote: »
    U went to what shop ?

    Unfortunately can't help you out with the PAS sensor. No harm leaving it out to be honest.

    Bought this package:

    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html

    I'm based in oz so it arrived quick.
    I have a thumb throttle but may upgrade to grip shift type throttle.


  • #235
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    xckjoo wrote: »
    Is it the type with the overlapping "teeth" in the centre? They're supposed to be trimmed to fit as far as I know.

    Edit: I have this type on my newest bike and you can see the extruded bits of the teeth that need to be trimmed to fit. Think I had this type on my old bike. Don't remember having to trim bits but wouldn't worry about doing it. They're purely for grip and to stop it slipping when you peddle.

    I wouldn't say they're overlapping but yes there are teeth, I think that's my only option really. However I think the thickness of the pas body is just to thick.
    An image of them is on the link:
    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html


  • #236
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    Bought this package:

    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html

    I'm based in oz so it arrived quick.
    I have a thumb throttle but may upgrade to grip shift type throttle.

    Ah yes I see, way down under :D

    Yeah best of luck with it, definitely a far better choice than the 250 watt motor.

    You can always tweak it for more power if you need, provided the battery can take it, that motor should be able for 1 Kw easily but it would be interesting to see what power is being pulled from the battery if you can hook up some kind of power meter.

    One thing that interests me is that it has an integrated controller, never saw that the last time I looked, should make for a very neat installation and you'll love not having to ease off the pedals/power to change gears like on a crank drive.

    Just be very, very careful if using aluminium dropouts that the axle doesn't spin or you will damage your cabling to the motor. I would use a torque arm, there is none supplied that I can see, maybe torque washers, be very careful.


  • #237
    xckjoo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,397 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    Low Energy Eng wrote: »
    I wouldn't say they're overlapping but yes there are teeth, I think that's my only option really. However I think the thickness of the pas body is just to thick.
    An image of them is on the link:
    http://dillengerelectricbikes.com.au/electric-bike-kits/off-road/500w-high-torque-electric-bike-kit-by-dillenger.html
    Ya fairly sure they're supposed to be trimmed to fit. I'd just go for it. Trim, test, repeat.


  • #238
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    [Deleted User] wrote: »
    Ah yes I see, way down under :D

    Yeah best of luck with it, definitely a far better choice than the 250 watt motor.

    You can always tweak it for more power if you need, provided the battery can take it, that motor should be able for 1 Kw easily but it would be interesting to see what power is being pulled from the battery if you can hook up some kind of power meter.

    One thing that interests me is that it has an integrated controller, never saw that the last time I looked, should make for a very neat installation and you'll love not having to ease off the pedals/power to change gears like on a crank drive.

    Just be very, very careful if using aluminium dropouts that the axle doesn't spin or you will damage your cabling to the motor. I would use a torque arm, there is none supplied that I can see, maybe torque washers, be very careful.

    I see this as my steep learning curve, so yes I'll be hooking up meters etc to get a better understanding.
    Tbh I was weighing up the benefits of hub vs crank and I personally think the hub made more sense. It has its own set of gears so that offsets the crank using the bikes gear sets.
    Then there's less maintenance on the chain etc.
    Thanks for the heads up on the drop outs, I'll keep a close eye, especially if I crank up the power. I'll flick up some pics of I figure out how!


  • #239
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    xckjoo wrote: »
    Ya fairly sure they're supposed to be trimmed to fit. I'd just go for it. Trim, test, repeat.

    Thanks matey


  • #240
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    Here's the integrated controller in the battery pack


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  • #241
    Low Energy Eng
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 298 ✭✭Low Energy Eng


    https://ibb.co/tJ1G8mK


  • #242
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That will be a very neat setup, can't wait for your review !



    489467.jpg


  • #243
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    So I hooked up a single 4Ah battery pack after I charged it. Only went to 40.2V (for those of you who don't know a 10S pack of 3.7V nominal 18650 cells should be at about 42V when fully charged) which is a bit strange but might be related to the fact the pack was at a low SOC for several weeks. The charger outputs 42.1V which is perfect. Why would the charger show the green light though, indicating that the battery is fully charged? :confused:

    Anyway, off I went yesterday. Bike tyres are quite soft. Brake pads are slightly hitting the rims. Bike is old and heavy and my 100kg doesn't help either. And it was quite stormy. With one pack the controller cut power after about 20s at full throttle. Must be the load temporarily lowering the pack voltage below the threshold. Still max speed with the wind was about 35km/h. With half throttle or throttle on / off (a bit like pulse and glide) I managed 5km range. Bike struggled up any small hill. Battery was 34V when I came home, had to pedal the last few hundred meters as the battery was dead, didn't pedal at all up to then

    Today I parallelled both little packs (under €45 each shipped :D), pumped up the tyres to 30PSI and it was a completely different ballgame. Started again at 40.2V. Did the full 5km circuit at almost constant max throttle and with no wind the bike manages a constant top speed of a bit over 30km/h. No issues at all and came home with a battery just under 39V, didn't pedal at all

    So if I can get the pack back to charging to full, it should be able to do my 10km commute no bother flying along at full throttle 30km/h. It probably even can do that if the battery doesn't go up again

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  • #244
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    unkel wrote: »
    So I hooked up a single 4Ah battery pack after I charged it. Only went to 40.2V (for those of you who don't know a 10S pack of 3.7V nominal 18650 cells should be at about 42V when fully charged) which is a bit strange but might be related to the fact the pack was at a low SOC for several weeks. The charger outputs 42.1V which is perfect. Why would the charger show the green light though, indicating that the battery is fully charged? :confused:/QUOTE]

    Those packs have BMS ? could be that they didn't fully balance. Usually the bleed current for the BMS is quite low and can take a very long time to balance depending on how off they are.

    IF you can manage not to get the packs too low then they should not get much out of balance.

    unkel wrote: »

    Today I parallelled both little packs (under €45 each shipped :D), pumped up the tyres to 30PSI and it was a completely different ballgame. Started again at 40.2V. Did the full 5km circuit at almost constant max throttle and with no wind the bike manages a constant top speed of a bit over 30km/h. No issues at all and came home with a battery just under 39V, didn't pedal at all

    So if I can get the pack back to charging to full, it should be able to do my 10km commute no bother flying along at full throttle 30km/h. It probably even can do that if the battery doesn't go up again

    Hard tyres make a difference, I remember when I ditched the nountain bike tyres and got Continental sport contacts and pumped them to 90 Psi the difference was amazing, the peddling efficiency was amazing, of course on country roads you need a decent saddle with that kind of tyre pressure....... :D

    You should sell that motor when you want to upgrade and get an 8T Mac kit.

    Don't forget that it's often the case that battery C rates are over rates so if your pack is getting very warm and you notice lots of voltage sag then it's definitely not a 3 C battery.

    And the cold will also make it sluggish in winter if stored in the shed, get an electric blanket and keep them wrapped up at night !

    I reckon that battery will have a very short life.......


  • #245
    nokiatom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭nokiatom


    Can anyone advise me or give me a link to where i can get a controller for my electric bike. its a 36v battery and 250w motor. Unfortunately i know very little about electrics so a direct link to where i could get one would be great. thanks


  • #246
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    nokiatom wrote: »
    Can anyone advise me or give me a link to where i can get a controller for my electric bike. its a 36v battery and 250w motor. Unfortunately i know very little about electrics so a direct link to where i could get one would be great. thanks

    Try ebay, they are pretty common those controllers and usually they are the same with many different names.

    The difference mostly is the wiring and whether it's compatible with your kit, the connectors might be different.

    The wires to the motor and controller might have to be wired differently , called phase wires. Say blue might have to go to yellow, yellow to green etc if the motor runs very rough and/or backwards or is very noisy then you might have to wire up the phases differently.

    Are you sure your controller is toast ? what is the symptom ?

    + you will also have to get a 36v controller if you get one for 48 volts and connect a 36 v battery the low voltage cut off will kick in way too early if it runs at all and if you get a 48v controller it won;t cut off at all with a 36v battery, however these low voltage cut offs were mainly for lead acid batteries that had no BMS but the controller will still cut the power if you get a 48v controller for a 36 v battery.

    I always got programmable controllers so I could change torque, acceleration, top speed, and battery cut off voltage if I decided to change my setup, get a different motor etc. , I always got infineon controllers from em3ev. If you do make sure and get matching ebrake and throttle or the connectors might not match back up.

    I always prefer thumb throttle and not twist throttle.

    I don't know where you will get the exact controller you have.


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  • #247
    nokiatom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭nokiatom


    Deleted User wrote: »
    Try ebay, they are pretty common those controllers and usually they are the same with many different names.

    The difference mostly is the wiring and whether it's compatible with your kit, the connectors might be different.

    The wires to the motor and controller might have to be wired differently , called phase wires. Say blue might have to go to yellow, yellow to green etc if the motor runs very rough and/or backwards or is very noisy then you might have to wire up the phases differently.

    Are you sure your controller is toast ? what is the symptom ?

    + you will also have to get a 36v controller if you get one for 48 volts and connect a 36 v battery the low voltage cut off will kick in way too early if it runs at all and if you get a 48v controller it won;t cut off at all with a 36v battery, however these low voltage cut offs were mainly for lead acid batteries that had no BMS but the controller will still cut the power if you get a 48v controller for a 36 v battery.

    I always got programmable controllers so I could change torque, acceleration, top speed, and battery cut off voltage if I decided to change my setup, get a different motor etc. , I always got infineon controllers from em3ev. If you do make sure and get matching ebrake and throttle or the connectors might not match back up.

    I always prefer thumb throttle and not twist throttle.

    I don't know where you will get the exact controller you have.

    its an old electric bike with the battery on the carrier at the back. Its a liFe P04 battery. When i turn on the throttle control all the lights blink for a split second and then go off. i never had issues with the battery and this problem just happened out of the blue. attached is the throttle control


  • #248
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    @nokiatom , Tell me, what was the outcome of the tests I asked you to do, I forget now.

    Still can't remember if it sounds more like your battery or not.


  • #249
    unkel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,714 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Deleted User wrote: »
    Those packs have BMS ? could be that they didn't fully balance. Usually the bleed current for the BMS is quite low and can take a very long time to balance depending on how off they are.

    IF you can manage not to get the packs too low then they should not get much out of balance.

    Don't forget that it's often the case that battery C rates are over rates so if your pack is getting very warm and you notice lots of voltage sag then it's definitely not a 3 C battery.

    Yes they have a BMS:

    Linky

    If you think about it, one pack just didn't make sense. The motor is 500W and the battery pack size = 4Ah

    Pack voltage is say 40V. That means the current at max motor settings is 12.5A so you are talking well over 3C. I'm actually surprised that tiny battery gave that to me (for about 20-30s)

    Much better off with the two packs in parallel, which brings the max C rating to well under 2C. It could provide this constantly for my 5km loop

    Hope they recover though, at their current 40.3V, they are only at about 80% SOC. That said I actually don't know if they would go all the way up to 42V as I have never tested this and they arrived only 60% or so charged...

    But maybe that's a good thing. I shouldn't run them down again like I did though.

    Why do you think they will have a short life? Because they were cheap? :p

    My ads on adverts.ie

    https://www.adverts.ie/member/5856/ads



  • #250
    BarryM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 837 ✭✭✭BarryM


    I posted this a while back, maybe when most people were on their holliers....

    any answers?

    "I have a Huzhqu Li i battery 36v 10A; and BFSWZB 36v 250w 170R 24-190 1118485 letters and numbers on the motor."

    Another poster suggested that is a Bafang.

    I just got a mail from the manufacturer, Jorvik, to say that 250w is the only option available for my model.

    So, now my question is, is it possible to get an upgrade somewhere else? Are there compatibility issues? Does an upgrade come as a direct swap wheel/motor? If I upgrade, are there street legal issues, apparently that is the reason there is no upgrade possible in the UK.


  • #251
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    BarryM wrote: »
    I posted this a while back, maybe when most people were on their holliers....

    any answers?

    "I have a Huzhqu Li i battery 36v 10A; and BFSWZB 36v 250w 170R 24-190 1118485 letters and numbers on the motor."

    Another poster suggested that is a Bafang.

    I just got a mail from the manufacturer, Jorvik, to say that 250w is the only option available for my model.

    So, now my question is, is it possible to get an upgrade somewhere else? Are there compatibility issues? Does an upgrade come as a direct swap wheel/motor? If I upgrade, are there street legal issues, apparently that is the reason there is no upgrade possible in the UK.

    I meant to reply to this post but I forgot all about it.

    What kind of upgrade are you looking for? more power ?

    Chances are if you want more power you will have to upgrade the battery and the controller and motor so you would probably be looking at purchasing a whole new kit.


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