The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

Richard tea · 03-04-2013 7:34pm

Was giving the bike a once over this evening for the possibility of a very short spin tomorrow. I noticed the headlight not working again. Some of the lads will remember when my headlight went last time out on a spin in very bad fog. The passing headlight still works but my high/low beam is not working.

I did notice the headlight flickering on for a second when I gave the headlight switch housing a twist so I assumed it was a loose connection. I opened her up but I could not find a loose connection. I gave it a spray of wd40 and dried it down which still didnt help. My next step is to do some googling. Im wondering if the fuse for the passing light is separate from the high/low beam?

Wonda-Boy · 03-04-2013 8:21pm

Is the bulb housing knackered Joe? Take of the headlight and have a gander at the actually bulb assembly....

Richard tea · 03-04-2013 9:22pm

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Is the bulb housing knackered Joe? Take of the headlight and have a gander at the actually bulb assembly....

Will do. I found some info linking the problem to the starter relay. ill tackle it again in the morning.

serious3 · 03-04-2013 9:25pm

went for a spin with the civvie, beautiful spring day out here in connemara, went into galway where i managed to drop the bike in the petrol sation:( few scratches to the fairing and a cracked indicator:( the most damge was to my pride:P

Wonda-Boy · 03-04-2013 10:40pm

serious3 wrote: »

went for a spin with the civvie, beautiful spring day out here in connemara, went into galway where i managed to drop the bike in the petrol sation:( few scratches to the fairing and a cracked indicator:( the most damge was to my pride:P

**** man that is poxy....how did it happen? You think the stand was down or something!

Dont say you slipped on Diesel I would be throwing an eppie in the managers office....:mad:

Wossack · 04-04-2013 12:01am

minidazzler wrote: »

Fcuk, my speed sensor is on the front sprocket. Have yet to find OEM online, but won't be purchasing for a few days anyway, hopefully I can. Though, I suppose even if I got one with 3 extra teeth on the large it wouldn't be too bad. Better than the next closest I found with 53 whereas OEM is 44.

Hmm I wouldnt have thought a 125 would be the best to go raising the gearing on IMO... does the bike rev all the way out in the top gear? Are ye sure you're not after more acceleration? That would be +front, -rear
I think the rule of thumb is a change of +/- 3 on the rear is equivalent to +/- 1 on the front. Ideally you should change the front, as a) fronts are cheaper, b) more effect, and c) increasing the size of the rear may result in needing a larger chain..

/edit disregard strikethroughed - batman_oh points out my late night error below..!

serious3 · 04-04-2013 8:53am

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

**** man that is poxy....how did it happen? You think the stand was down or something!

Dont say you slipped on Diesel I would be throwing an eppie in the managers office....:mad:

neither!! i was looking at the parcel motel depot thingy and thinking i must look into that a bit more.....next thing the bikes falling and i can't support it, the civvie was watching this as he was putting his on the stand, i managed to lower it gently onto the pannier just as he came over to help me lift it. if it had fell over without me holding it it would have done a lot more damage, the indicator can be glued and i've a touch up kit in the shed

batman_oh · 04-04-2013 8:54am

Wossack wrote: »

Hmm I wouldnt have thought a 125 would be the best to go raising the gearing on IMO... does the bike rev all the way out in the top gear? Are ye sure you're not after more acceleration? That would be +front, -rear
I think the rule of thumb is a change of +/- 3 on the rear is equivalent to +/- 1 on the front. Ideally you should change the front, as a) fronts are cheaper, b) more effect, and c) increasing the size of the rear may result in needing a larger chain..

Wrong way around - more acceleration is down on the front or up on the back. Generally you can do -1 on the front on a standard chain so that would be the best option. Cheaper sprocket too

Wossack · 04-04-2013 11:01am

batman_oh wrote: »

Wrong way around - more acceleration is down on the front or up on the back. Generally you can do -1 on the front on a standard chain so that would be the best option. Cheaper sprocket too

ack dead right - late night brainfart

RosieJoe · 04-04-2013 11:22am

Getting a new front tyre on the Bandit today. Will be in Cotters at lunchtime if anyone is about.

cantdecide · 04-04-2013 9:46pm

Had to have the exhaust brazed and had a load of gammie red painted things that looked cack, including the wheels, so decided to tear it all down and do a little painting and get to the bottom of the running problems I've had since I got water in the fuel tank so...

1) tore the plastics off, whipped the wheels off, whipped off the red bits.

2) bought used chrome wheels with part worn tyres and next to new EBC discs to replace the warped (and of course, red painted) originals.

3) had to have the wheels re-sealed due to the cruddy chrome and dodgy valve.

4) returned the wheels when they didn't fit :rolleyes: but kept the discs

5) got new HH pads for the discs

6) returned them the next day and got the correct HH pads :rolleyes:

7) got new exhaust gaskets, VHT'd the pipes and refitted the lot.

8) refitted the repainted fan cowl and.... punctured the rad :fcuk:

9) got rad fixed

10) replaced the rad when the fix didn't work and it pissed everywhere :doublefcuk:

11) decided to check the thermostat.... and sheered a bolt.

12) stat was fcuked so got the fcuked housing sleeved, got more coolant, had the new rad tested and replaced the lot

13) Bought the paint and materials to paint the wheels and fit the red wheels strips

14) painted the wheels, fitted the stripes fitted the new discs,

15) fitted the new pads, refitted the wheels,

16) modified the gammie chain adjuster, painted them and refitted them

17) refitted the repainted side stand and mirror brackets and all the plastics

18) road tested the bike and it ran well but went down on cyls 3 & 4.

19) eventually figured out that it was a combination of a gammie rad tap and airlocking from an aftermarket fuel filter on cyls 3 & 4.

20) got used tap

21) returned it and got another one again that wasn't any better

22) went to a mechanic that managed to sort out my own tap

23) on my mechanic's advice, I emptied the tank of water and crud and bypassed the filters

24) road tested the bike... finally appears to be running ok...

TL;DR FML

Wonda-Boy · 04-04-2013 10:32pm

Good days work so....Kudos

eurofoxy · 04-04-2013 10:45pm

i think you missed a line

25) cant be arced anymore, put bike on adverts...As new....

sounds like a lot of work, hopefully the weather is just starting to change so we will see more bikes out and about...

Thinkingaboutit · 06-04-2013 2:03am

I can't ride a bike for a bit (lazarov frame etc, tho that's off and I only have a cast), but I started one of them up, the Magna 750, and left it running for a bit, and charged the battery of the other one in the garage, Kawasaki KZ750, although I think its battery is fubar. It can show as charged, but one blast of the airhorn, let alone using the electric start, drains the battery. I need to readjust the choke on it. It lets in too much fuel, and not too much air.

minidazzler · 06-04-2013 2:15am

Cleaned the chain (again) and applied a new lube, Castrol Race Lube (or something) (It's not the chain wax) It seems to stick better to the chain thoguh than muc off sh1te that doesn't. But will have to check her tomorrow after taking it to work.

sonic85 · 07-04-2013 7:49pm

changed coolant and gave it a good wash. under the fairings looked like it hadn't been cleaned in years! much better now

cantdecide · 07-04-2013 11:16pm

eurofoxy wrote: »

25) cant be arced anymore, put bike on adverts...As new....

Not long to go now :rolleyes:

Repaired ignition barrel loom. The blinkin' bike wouldn't switch off on Friday. It turned out to be a short from a kink in the loom that had been badly repaired so I had to splice in four new cables properly lengthened, staggered, soldered and insulated. The ignition lights are actually much brighter now.

Then I discovered my clutch cable is fraying :rolleyes:

Wossack · 08-04-2013 1:07pm

good catch!

half considering getting the wheels powdercoated dark metalic red, like:

Ive the same model bike in silver, like in the pic (try and ignore the flames, bleugh)

designbydan · 12-04-2013 11:12pm

Today (Well last night) I moved up to this Lovely Machine

Needs a good bit done to it.
Speedo not working, same for odometer, BADLY needs new front tyre,
Battery needed a good charge... while doing that this morning I cleaned the chain which was rusted to F*^&, So there'll be a new chain and sprocket on the way soon too. Also cleaned the fork seals which seamed to be leaking, they were mank inside, So bad I'll prob clean them again tomorrow when I have more time in the daylight (But stopped the leaking so yay)

Gave the bike a good wash after work and took the above pic after.

Richard tea · 13-04-2013 6:39pm

Headed out and bought a few bits & pieces to service the bike.

Everything went well & as planed.

I changed the oil, oil filter, 4 spark plugs. The Air filter did not need replacing. The old spark plugs were quite dirty. The old oil didn't seem that black but I know now myself when it was changed so I can work off that in future.
I removed the tank to get at the spark plugs. The fuel overflow tubs are a pain to get back on the tank, Anyone any tips?? I left them disconnected for now. I wish I had of taken a recording of a before and after because I could swear she is purring better now.

One thing is bothering me though. I adjusted the chain the other day. I followed the guide on that youtube video from Del boys garage. Most of the chain has the 1 1/2 inch play in it but the other part of the chain is quite tight. Almost feels too tight ( half inch play in it ). The are still 3 notches left on the swing arm for adjustment???? Could the chain be ****ed even before all adjustment notches are not used up yet????

Richard tea · 14-04-2013 7:59pm

I removed the back brake caliper today to inspect the pads and what not. Everything was fine so I just gave it a spray down with brake cleaner and applied some copper grease to the back of the pads. Ill tackle the front caliper another time ( hope its as straight forward as the back ).

I noticed for the first time today a leak coming from the bottom of the exhaust. Not much but a drip none the less. I thought here we go another list of things to sort out. It was great relief when the lads popped around and informed me that this was normal as there is a hole to drain off any water/condensation. The hole must have been clogged up because its the first time I noticed a drip.:)

Mr Sheen! · 14-04-2013 9:37pm

Richard tea wrote: »

I removed the back brake caliper today to inspect the pads and what not. Everything was fine so I just gave it a spray down with brake cleaner and applied some copper grease to the back of the pads. Ill tackle the front caliper another time ( hope its as straight forward as the back ).

I noticed for the first time today a leak coming from the bottom of the exhaust. Not much but a drip none the less. I thought here we go another list of things to sort out. It was great relief when the lads popped around and informed me that this was normal as there is a hole to drain off any water/condensation. The hole must have been clogged up because its the first time I noticed a drip.:)

Good to see you today. Grand spot you have for the bike and its looking really well. Get that out on the road Joe and sort out any teething problems. This a grand bike!

Wonda-Boy · 14-04-2013 10:57pm

Fair play Joe great feeling when you service the bike yourself innit.....

Wonda-Boy · 15-04-2013 10:56am

(Yesterday) Swapped my FZ6 for most of the day to enjoy a nice BIRD.....really is a top notch bike and a quality piece of kit.

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 12:38pm

Took lookbehindyou advice and chopped off the damaged piece of the front mud guard. Worked a treat, just need to smooth it off now.

I took the front sprocket housing apart for the first time also. The pic wont do it justice but there was quite alot of gunk/gunge clogged up in there.

Just waiting on missus to finish school run and ill pop up to the garage for a re-fuel and a short spin to bed her in after the service.

cantdecide · 15-04-2013 12:43pm

Richard tea wrote: »

One thing is bothering me though. I adjusted the chain the other day. I followed the guide on that youtube video from Del boys garage. Most of the chain has the 1 1/2 inch play in it but the other part of the chain is quite tight. Almost feels too tight ( half inch play in it ). The are still 3 notches left on the swing arm for adjustment???? Could the chain be ****ed even before all adjustment notches are not used up yet????

The way I was shown to adjust a chain is to find the tightest spot and adjust it to suit from there. You are likely to have more than one tight spot. My feeling is that the chain might well be past it if it were that crusty and old to begin with but I'd start by making another adjustment and keeping it well lubed. See if the the tight spot loosens out a little with time. If there's a split link on that chain and it's not a high-tech X-ring modern chain (which I'd imagine it wouldn't be if it rusted over) then you could always try removing it and soaking it in oil (I want to say kerosene but might be wrong). If all that fails, get used to the idea of replacing the chain. There's nothing like that new chain loveliness!!

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 12:52pm

cantdecide wrote: »

The way I was shown to adjust a chain is to find the tightest spot and adjust it to suit from there. You are likely to have more than one tight spot. My feeling is that the chain might well be past it if it were that crusty and old to begin with but I'd start by making another adjustment and keeping it well lubed. See if the the tight spot loosens out a little with time. If there's a split link on that chain and it's not a high-tech X-ring modern chain (which I'd imagine it wouldn't be if it rusted over) then you could always try removing it and soaking it in oil (I want to say kerosene but might be wrong). If all that fails, get used to the idea of replacing the chain. There's nothing like that new chain loveliness!!

Will do. A new chain and sprocket are next on the list. I just have to wait till next months or the month afters pay check:mad: I have been reading alot about the different chains & although most say the x ring is better, quite alot of people have mentioned that the o ring lasted just as long as the x ring?? There is nearly 50 quid in the difference in price.

Wonda-Boy · 15-04-2013 1:34pm

Joe,

I got a gold D.I.D X chain with D.I.D performance front and rear sprockets for £110 delivered from the UK. And it was a tasty piece of kit.....

cantdecide · 15-04-2013 1:39pm

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Joe,

I got a gold D.I.D X chain with D.I.D performance front and rear sprockets for £110 delivered from the UK. And it was a tasty piece of kit.....

Did you use a split link or did you manage to get a rivet link? I've never done my own C&S but was thinking about doing it to the gixxer if I could get around the special tool for the rivet link....

Sorry for hijacking...

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 2:02pm

cantdecide wrote: »

Did you use a split link or did you manage to get a rivet link? I've never done my own C&S but was thinking about doing it to the gixxer if I could get around the special tool for the rivet link....

Sorry for hijacking...

Also Wonda can you post a link to the web site you got the c&s from?

The Don · 15-04-2013 5:04pm

cantdecide wrote: »

Did you use a split link or did you manage to get a rivet link? I've never done my own C&S but was thinking about doing it to the gixxer if I could get around the special tool for the rivet link....

Sorry for hijacking...

This may not be an option for you but when I put on my chain and sprockets I took off the rear swing arm.

It was pretty easy on the Fazer. Prop her up on stands/blocks. Take off the rear wheel and caliper. Disconnect the shock linkage(s). Then you only have to remove covers and take out the pivot shaft bolt.

The rear arm should be free to take out and then you can put on your new chain without having to split it.

There may be a few more steps depending on your bike but if you have a Haynes manual and the tools it should be pretty straight forward.

I'd prefer to do it this way rather than trust a link I put a chain back together with.

rat_race · 15-04-2013 5:21pm

The Don wrote: »

This may not be an option for you but when I put on my chain and sprockets I took off the rear swing arm.

It was pretty easy on the Fazer. Prop her up on stands/blocks. Take off the rear wheel and caliper. Disconnect the shock linkage(s). Then you only have to remove covers and take out the pivot shaft bolt.

The rear arm should be free to take out and then you can put on your new chain without having to split it.

There may be a few more steps depending on your bike but if you have a Haynes manual and the tools it should be pretty straight forward.

I'd prefer to do it this way rather than trust a link I put a chain back together with.

I'm not an expert, but don't chains generally come unlinked, and usually with the rivet links? Mine have in the past...

Tomohawk · 15-04-2013 5:50pm

Today I did a oil change on my PX200 Serie Speciale using SAE30 oil (black & white scooter). Tools used were a flat head screw driver and an 11mm socket for the oil nut underneath the engine casing. Ran the engine for 10 minutes and then dropped the old oil, it was in not too bad a condition, it wasn't black! Last changed the oil in september 2012, hadn't done much mileage since then. Filled up with new sae30 oil from the red squirt can, takes about a can full and let the overflow dribble off from the top hole(this is how you know you have the correct amount in when the oil levels off and stops dribbling out of hole). Job done, took about 20 minutes...that's the oil serviced for the year on this vespa!

Wonda-Boy · 15-04-2013 6:07pm

Some newer bikes (mine 09) would have the same chain on from new and could be seamless, as in no split link. I was doing a service and replacing the sprocket carrier bearing at the same time so when it came to the chain I was knackered so I just angle grinded mine off only took a sec lol. I used the rivet link that came with the new chain. TBH, its quite easy to do and you dont need the "special" tool as a good strong vice grips to squeeze the new link on level and then a self tapping screw in the new link and tap it wide so it cant move to flair the links when seated level. You would need two people to flair the link, as one has to hold something (lump hammer) behind the link to take the force.

I got the kit from Huntermotorcycles on ebay lads. It was very quick getting here.....

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 7:02pm

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Some newer bikes (mine 09) would have the same chain on from new and could be seamless, as in no split link. I was doing a service and replacing the sprocket carrier bearing at the same time so when it came to the chain I was knackered so I just angle grinded mine off only took a sec lol. I used the rivet link that came with the new chain. TBH, its quite easy to do and you dont need the "special" tool as a good strong vice grips to squeeze the new link on level and then a self tapping screw in the new link and tap it wide so it cant move to flair the links when seated level. You would need two people to flair the link, as one has to hold something (lump hammer) behind the link to take the force.

I got the kit from Huntermotorcycles on ebay lads. It was very quick getting here.....

Nice one. They have a C&S kit for 84 sterling. I think delivery is £11

Wonda-Boy · 15-04-2013 7:08pm

Richard tea wrote: »

Nice one. They have a C&S kit for 84 sterling. I think delivery is £11

Just make sure it will fit your bike Joe....

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 7:14pm

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Just make sure it will fit your bike Joe....

I will ask the seller first. The pic has a 520 chain but as far as I know I need a 525. It does say pic is for illustration purposes only though. Im still a bit confused about fitting it but sure ill tackle that at a later stage.

Wonda-Boy · 15-04-2013 7:16pm

Well the 1st thing to get right is the size....the 520 is the width (not the length) so hop onto the Honda forums or google it and you be sorted.

Richard tea · 15-04-2013 8:31pm

The seller got back to me. Its a 525 chain & he says it will fit my bike. I wont order it for a few days though.

dwelby101 · 16-04-2013 6:54pm

Hi there,

I'm sure this is the wrong place to ask this, but you guys seem to know what you are talking about and since a recent post was about an oil change, i just thought I'd ask here... So recently I sent my bike to get serviced after I bought It second-hand (just to make sure it wasnt a total death trap) everything seemed ok, just some basic checks were done and an oil change... the mechanic must have put too much oil into the engine, and I'm saying this because when I brought it back to sort out another issue he had to drain some oil, and I hadn't touched the oil since the previous service. So my question is this: if there is too much oil in the engine, is it possible for the excess oil to get pushed back into a carburetor causing the float in said carb to get stuck allowing too much fuel to build up in carb causing the engine to run too rich...
I know there are a lot of "this causing that" in what i just said, but I have a feeling the stem of the problem was the extra oil, I just don't know enough to be sure.

Tomohawk · 16-04-2013 9:09pm

Overfilling your engine oil results in excessive internal air pressures which causes gaskets and seals to fail. Another side-effect of overfilling is oil aeration which causes it to foam up inside the crank case. Once this happens, the oil loses it's ability to properly lubricate the internal components and will eventually lead to seizing. The clutch may slip and oil may get up into your air filter and block it. Bad news all around! Drain it to the proper level asap.

Sometimes the engine mightn't start up if there too much oil. Completely drain it and check the magnetic sump plug for swarf or metal shavings, then clean it, replace and refill to the correct level...

KamiKazi · 16-04-2013 9:23pm

Bought a new set of clocks for the R6 as the old tachometer was spazzing out.

Now when it gets noise tested I'll be able to rev up to 7k accurately, instead of the noise test guy seeing that it doesn't work and just saying 'just give it a handful!' :pac:

batman_oh · 16-04-2013 11:44pm

Went for a spin as had enough of exams and study!

The Don · 17-04-2013 11:52am

rat_race wrote: »

I'm not an expert, but don't chains generally come unlinked, and usually with the rivet links? Mine have in the past...

I'm not sure. I've only done it once and the DID chain I got wasn't split.

designbydan · 17-04-2013 1:38pm

Got 'new' clocks and pillion foot pegs for my bros the other day, was looking forward to putting them on when I got home after work until the clutch cable snapped on me while I was out for lunch yesterday.

Bike is now sitting in work waiting for a new cable
(Which I luckily ordered along with a speedo cable Saturday night from Ebay)

I knew it was frayed already but was hoping it would hold out until the new cable arrived.

Bought a weekly bus ticket today. . poxy public transport I hate it. with any luck the cable will be delivered today and I can bring it back in tomorrow and be back on the road

Bikerguy · 17-04-2013 11:20pm

got my new yoke 2 days a go, today i cleaned her, waxed, polished and i could not take a look away of her. i hope she wont let me down.

Pst: my wife should be aware as i am falling in love again

Wonda-Boy · 18-04-2013 8:57am

Bikerguy wrote: »

got my new yoke 2 days a go, today i cleaned her, waxed, polished and i could not take a look away of her. i hope she wont let me down.

Pst: my wife should be aware as i am falling in love again

This post is USELESS without pics....pics or it never happened Ed?

:pac::pac::pac::pac:

nerrad1983 · 18-04-2013 8:08pm

Today i took delivery of my new Yoshimura system

Smashing piece of kit, really made well apart from a little problem with the o2 sensor

Ordered direct from there factory in America, great customer service would recommend them highly!

cantdecide · 18-04-2013 8:10pm

So pretty!

Soundman · 18-04-2013 8:13pm

Oooooh... Shiny!

The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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