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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I used RF for years too. It was all we had. My first television didn't have scart sockets.

    In this day and age of cheap RGB scart there's no excuse though. It's leagues ahead of composite.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    o1s1n wrote: »
    I used RF for years too. It was all we had. My first television didn't have scart sockets.

    d349c_061121_back_in_my_day.gif


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,885 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I guess this is the thread for this.

    I just replaced the screen lens on a Game Boy DMG-01.
    Its a thing of beauty now, not a mark on it.

    The mark in the top left corner is not a scratch , its a hair or something that fell on it when I was taking the snap.

    dsc5667e.jpg



    Here's a link to a biggie pic if you want a close up view (it's worth a look).
    http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4620/dsc5667s.jpg

    I really recommend everyone replace the screen lens if its marked as its cheap and easy.
    I used an official new DMG-01 lens and it was 4 euro inc postage and took less than 1 min to replace.


    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    Plugged in the Commodore 64 a few minutes ago; gives a black screen and continuous sound, any ideas?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Plugged in the Commodore 64 a few minutes ago; gives a black screen and continuous sound, any ideas?

    Loading? :D

    Dodgey rf, retune, check conenctions etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭alpahaeagle


    I had that on my first C64 I bought........

    As far as memory goes....Either the following...

    1: faulty Power supply
    2: fauly chips on the mother board.....

    Firstly open the system and just make sure all the chips are seated correctly.

    Or follow this video......

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdOWm5M0LL4


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I had that on my first C64 I bought........

    As far as memory goes....Either the following...

    1: faulty Power supply
    2: fauly chips on the mother board.....

    Firstly open the system and just make sure all the chips are seated correctly.

    Or follow this video......

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdOWm5M0LL4

    I've also seen faulty SID chips causing this, but no harm in checking the basics before opening the console first.

    Good video, but if yer man can go to the bother of making a video....surely he could have went to the bother of getting dressed :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    Any way to tell which chip is the problem? Both are quite hot after a few minutes of it being on; and they're soldered in -_-


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    That Jap Saturn Virtua stick I bought does indeed have issues. The C button is broken. Seems to be permanently set to on.

    You can get around it in some games by putting the turbo button to on...but others not so much.

    Anyone any experience with fixing this stick? I took the bottom plate off but couldn't get to the buttons/pcb as they're clipped in from the top and soldered at the bottom. So as I see it, the only way to remove them is to desolder from the bottom. Which as you can imagine, I ain't doing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Tested my Saturn out a bit more and there are some weird things going on. Normally I can troubleshoot what the problem is, but I can't in this situation. There are too many variables between the console, the Action Replay and the untested controller.

    If I boot the console with no controllers in, it boots Japanese games fine but won't boot PAL. (No problem here, it's a Jap region locked console)

    If I put the controller in it won't work until I press the C button turbo to on. The controller then kicks into life, albeit with the C button continuously firing. This happens in both ports.

    The fact that it happens in both ports kind of points to the controller being broken. As I think it would be a bit of an odd coincidence if both ports were. Unless they both link up together at some point.

    Unfortunately I don't have another Saturn pad handy. That would let me know if it's a problem with the controller or the console. I guess buying another pad to test it out is probably the next step.

    If I put the Action Replay cart in, sometimes it boots the Action Replay menu, sometimes it crashes on the menu, sometimes it doesn't boot the Action replay menu at all and either goes straight to a Japanese game or tells me the PAL one can't be loaded.

    So here there is either an issue with the Action Replay itself or the action replay just doesnt work without a controller in. (If someone could test that out and let me know I'd be very thankful!).

    It's also possible the Saturn cart slot is damaged.

    So the possible scenarios are -

    The Saturn Might be damaged
    or
    The controller might be damaged
    or
    The Action Replay might be damaged
    or
    The Saturn and the Action Replay might be damaged
    Or
    The Saturn and the Controller might be damaged
    Or
    The Action Replay and the controller might be damaged

    Head melting stuff! As mentioned above, I'll try to get a new working controller to remove a few of the above scenarios.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang




    Just a quick vid I made. Hope it helps someone. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭Doge


    Any way to tell which chip is the problem? Both are quite hot after a few minutes of it being on; and they're soldered in -_-

    Bit late getting to this, but the SID chips are hot to the touch when powered on, it's normal.

    Faulty PSU would be the most common culprit.

    I bought a c64 a few years ago with no way of playing games,
    so it was never used and one day I turned it on and got the black screen.

    I foolishly threw it away, after pulling the sid chip out of it for a project,
    and it turned out in the end that the power supply was knackered,
    the voltage was too low on one of the rails.
    (I think it was the 9V AC rail, it provides 5V DC also.)

    It was that project that got me to learn a little about electronics, hence the silly mistake prior.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭Doge


    Pyongyang wrote: »


    Just a quick vid I made. Hope it helps someone. :)

    @ the start of the video:

    "This is an ident I made for my blog www.pinkbullets.co.uk using Vegas,
    QBlock and some purchased audio software for the ident jingle and WTF JAPAN speech." :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    So my standard Jap Saturn pad arrived in the post today. And everything works fine again! Including the Action Replay.

    So I haven't a clue what's going on with that joystick...but at least the console still works. Phew!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    The wtf Japan speech says "pink-uh bu-lit-su, shoe-ting-game-ooh!".

    Keepin it real yo! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭Doge


    An alternative meaning to "Retro Repair"

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj1ysEL-Vdg#t=1m03s


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    I have Elite II and Workbench waiting for me in London; so I decided to open the Amiga (500) in the mean time to find out what this mysterious switch on the side does. There's really faint writing, on the left seems to be an "E" but on the right it's too faint to see. Basically it's a switch on the side under the floppy which, open opening, connects into the floppy drive. Anyone have any idea what this does?


    IMG_3503.jpg

    IMG_3504.jpg

    IMG_3506.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,469 ✭✭✭weeder


    seem to have a dying xbox :( getting a lot of automatically shutting down when its in the bios part of its bootup. sometimes just dies and others it will die on an error screen (im messing with a few hard drives atm so the error is that) but the speakers of my tv make a sort of weird sound, any idea where i should be looking? psu gets my money


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,469 ✭✭✭weeder


    just sussed this myself, does anyone remember the recall of the power cables? the reason was the power jack was soldered like a piece of ****, just hit off the power cord plugging in the ethernet cable and sure enough it shorted, luckily an easy out fix

    edit: http://llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/xbox%20power%20supply%20repair%20tutorial.htm
    link for anyone whos interested


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭Doge


    weeder wrote: »
    just sussed this myself, does anyone remember the recall of the power cables? the reason was the power jack was soldered like a piece of ****, just hit off the power cord plugging in the ethernet cable and sure enough it shorted, luckily an easy out fix

    edit: http://llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/xbox%20power%20supply%20repair%20tutorial.htm
    link for anyone whos interested



    That god damn link prompted me to embed this clip:



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭Doge


    o1s1n wrote: »
    The buttons can be put aside for a moment as the main issue was the D pad. I have a crap load of Megadrive pads..really really loads. So I thought it was just going to be a matter of switching the D pad rubber out. I tried another pad rubber and it had the same issue - ****e, must be the PCB. Here's where I ran into even more trouble. See all of my other multiple pads are the ones with red start buttons. I though the button colour was the only difference - apparantly not. The PCB in the controller is a different shape.

    I bought a model 2 controller recently (1993 on the PCB) which has the Red Start button,
    and the d-pad feels horribly loose like you described! :eek:

    I'd love to know is it just due to wear or were they always that bad, and were just used to them as kids.

    In fact the dealextreme controller's d-pad has far better spring to it.

    Popped the DX one open too and it seems to use rubbers also.



    o1s1n wrote: »
    Sounds like a third party controller. Does it look like the official Sega 6 button pad ?

    MegaDrive_6ButtonPad.jpg

    Everyone should be using a pad like this. They really lasted and should be 100% functional (within reason). On the other hand the 3 button ones really won't work well today...unless you had the patience and multiple sacraficial controllers like I did above.


    I think I may have to invest in one of those babies.

    Do you know how it compares in size to the Dealextreme/cheapo chinese ones?

    I find the DX ones a bit too small in my hands.

    I'm glad you went crazily in-depth with those posts, found them very useful.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Good guide. MVS collecting really has to be up there among the most perilous when it comes to bootlegs.

    Damn accent drives me insane though, he keeps doing that Australian/Californian/D4 upswing at the end of his setences. It's like every statement is a question. Argh!!!! :mad:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Good guide. MVS collecting really has to be up there among the most perilous when it comes to bootlegs.

    I'd put STV collecting right up there. I nearly got stung three times trying to buy Soukyugdigujlksdjghsdlkjghsdgkhlkqerrkgldxrentai and Cotton Boomerang (twice from two different people).

    STD collecting is the most perilous though. :pac:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭mrmrbungle


    has anyone repaired a disc not spinning problem in a sega multi-mega? i have two of them with the same problem, the laser tries to read but the disc never spins. i'm pretty handy with tech but have no idea whats wrong.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    mrmrbungle wrote: »
    has anyone repaired a disc not spinning problem in a sega multi-mega? i have two of them with the same problem, the laser tries to read but the disc never spins. i'm pretty handy with tech but have no idea whats wrong.

    If the laser is trying to read, but the disc isn't spinning, that sounds like the motor is kaput.


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭mrmrbungle


    EnterNow wrote: »
    If the laser is trying to read, but the disc isn't spinning, that sounds like the motor is kaput.

    any chance you know where to get a spare? :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    mrmrbungle wrote: »
    any chance you know where to get a spare? :D

    No idea, it's possible that Sega used the same motor from the Mega-CD 2...but you'd have to check it out. Sega16 forums may be of some help


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭mrmrbungle


    EnterNow wrote: »
    No idea, it's possible that Sega used the same motor from the Mega-CD 2...but you'd have to check it out. Sega16 forums may be of some help

    thanks, i'll check em out


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Quick video demonstrating my retro console capture setup. :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,885 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I replaced the screen on one of those Blaze/AtGames Sega handhelds(you know, the crappy ones).

    There really isnt much to them at all. Not that I was expecting loads of rom chips or anything but I was a bit disappointed when I opened it up.

    dsc0674dj.jpg

    dsc0667z.jpg

    dsc0662ya.jpg
    dsc0664l.jpg
    dsc0668jl.jpg


    Lots more pics(and full size versions) and a quick vid of the screen/backlight here:
    http://www.retrovia.ie/showthread.php/8588-Blaze-AtGames-Sega-Megadrive-handheld

    .


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 51,829 CMod ✭✭✭✭Retr0gamer


    Here's my guide to replacing a dud laser on a Philips CDI 450:

    http://lifein16bit.blogspot.com/2012/01/cdi-450-repair-laser-replacement.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    @Steve - Is that where you got the screen for the gameboy/raspberry project?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,885 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    EnterNow wrote: »
    @Steve - Is that where you got the screen for the gameboy/raspberry project?

    No, I don't think the screen would work on the Rasp Pi, plus the screens on these things are really crappy.
    I actually have a few screens that might work on my RaspiBoy. Some from blackberry phones and some from Nokia phones.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 51,829 CMod ✭✭✭✭Retr0gamer


    The innards of the Megadrive have been all on one chip since the Majesco Genesis 3 so you won't see lots of chips in these megadrive re-releases.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,885 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I was talking to a friend the other day and she was telling me her Game Boy Advance SP had stopped playing any kind of audio. I remembered I had one with this problem as well but had just put it to one side as I'd gotten a few GBA's that day.
    I told her I didn't have a fix for it and after a bit of time online I still couldn't find any guide or info(I'm sure there is something online but I just couldn't find it). So I decided to have a go at fixing my one and if that worked I would fix hers.

    Anyway, long story short I fixed my one and then made a repair guide using here one. It was a simple enough fix, once I found the problem that is.

    I tried to make the guide as detailed as possible without going crazy and make it so it was easy to do for beginners and not annoyingly simple for more techy folk(like the peeps who are probably reading this in the retro repair section).

    DSC_0690sml.jpg


    Anyway, here's a link to the guide.


    http://www.retrovia.ie/showthread.php/8643-Game-Boy-Advance-SP-No-Audio-Sound-Fix

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Partly fixed my ghosts n goblins bootleg PCB last night
    Fault:No picture, EPROMs 1-7 getting extremely hot.
    Solution:replace, reprogram EPROM 1-7

    There is one more small graphic fault I've to work on



    Then next up is a robocop missing robocop and the backgrounds but the splash screens work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    bought a A1200 but floppies get stuck in it, I have to pull them out :|
    Any ideas what I can do to fix this?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,469 ✭✭✭weeder


    i put a new 72 pin into my nes last year and its pretty much just been sat on a shelf since, I sold it on adverts the other day and took payment, before sending it i tested it and i was having dodgy 72 pin issues so i sent the guy a refund, what could be causing this? is it just dirt? Ive only got 1 cart i can test in it so could it be that?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,253 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Did you leave a cart in it when it was sitting unused?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,469 ✭✭✭weeder


    not that i can remember anyway.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Clean the pins that the 72 pin connects onto, there could be a bad contact there somewhere. Also, give all the game cart pins a clean too. I got a Ninja Gaiden there ages ago that I thought was broke, it wouldn't boot at all until I cleaned the connector pins with a hand soap someone here recommended. Done the trick.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,390 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    yeh it could be the games, you need to clean all games before you put them in a nes, some of them do be filthy. removing the region pin too can help if you get a nes constantly flashing on and off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,469 ✭✭✭weeder


    EnterNow wrote: »
    Clean the pins that the 72 pin connects onto, there could be a bad contact there somewhere. Also, give all the game cart pins a clean too. I got a Ninja Gaiden there ages ago that I thought was broke, it wouldn't boot at all until I cleaned the connector pins with a hand soap someone here recommended. Done the trick.

    hand soap? how would i apply and remove that without destroying the board in the process? cotton bud im thinking?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    weeder wrote: »
    hand soap? how would i apply and remove that without destroying the board in the process? cotton bud im thinking?

    I took the cart pcb out of the cart, applied a tiny drop of the detergent onto the cotton bud, dab of warm water & cleaned each pin that way. Took ages, but seriously nothing else worked. After I was finished, the cart booted without a hitch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    I always clean the edge connector pins on my carts and boards with isopropanol on a cotton bug.
    But you could also try cleaning the pins with wd40 on a cotton bud or with an eraser (rubber), the rough side works better
    eraser_usb_flash_drive_11.jpg


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,390 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I use steel wool. then medical wipes, my bro is diabetic so has loads of em, then clean that off with a bud. 100+ nes games now and they all work perfect. i do the same on megadrive, snes etc. I always clean them before i put them in my consoles.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    blow_me_nes.jpg


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 3,184 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dr Bob


    keithgeo wrote: »
    I use steel wool. then medical wipes, my bro is diabetic so has loads of em, then clean that off with a bud. 100+ nes games now and they all work perfect. i do the same on megadrive, snes etc. I always clean them before i put them in my consoles.

    I may have pressed mediswabs into use for cart cleaning on occasion as well ;)


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