Road Bike recommendations - budget c.€1,200

bbari · 01-07-2020 8:10pm

The bike arrived this morning and I thought the wait was over! Just after doing the quick assembly and realised it has a couple of issues,

1 - when the brake levers are closed (105 R7000) the wheels don't flow freely. This goes for both front and the rear. Wheel on the rear is like the brake is applied.
2- Chain on the front is touching the front derailleur, is it supposed to be touching it?
3-End of the cable for the front derailleur has some plastic fixing to it, not sure where its supposed to be attached. its just lose at the end.

The box wasn't damaged so I don't think this has happened on the way.

I would hate to send it back to Canyon as i got it after 10 weeks. is this something i can fix myself?

I didn't put the seat post or didn't fill air in the tyres, I doubt any of the above issues are to do with that.

Please help!

cletus · 01-07-2020 8:29pm

bbari wrote: »

The bike arrived this morning and I thought the wait was over! Just after doing the quick assembly and realised it has a couple of issues,

1 - when the brake levers are closed (105 R7000) the wheels don't flow freely. This goes for both front and the rear. Wheel on the rear is like the brake is applied.
2- Chain on the front is touching the front derailleur, is it supposed to be touching it?
3-End of the cable for the front derailleur has some plastic fixing to it, not sure where its supposed to be attached. its just lose at the end.

The box wasn't damaged so I don't think this has happened on the way.

I would hate to send it back to Canyon as i got it after 10 weeks. is this something i can fix myself?

I didn't put the seat post or didn't fill air in the tyres, I doubt any of the above issues are to do with that.

Please help!

Take a picture of the the plastic thing on the end of the cable.

When you say brake levers are closed, do you mean when you're not pulling them? Is it discs or pads?

Chain touching the derailleur is usually an alignment issue, easily enough sorted out.

Pictures of the brakes at the wheel might help too

Tony04 · 01-07-2020 8:31pm

1 When you mean closed to you mean the brakes are locked on the wheel, the cable just needs a little less tension and that should be fine.
2 put your seatpost in, put your bike in a stand or upside down, shift in between each gear and see if it misses any. Or if the chain rubs on the big chainring small sprocket small chainring high sprocket. If you troubleshoot a bit more its sortable
3. Picture maybe

bbari · 01-07-2020 8:50pm

Thanks lads.

Here is picture with plastic fixing (not fixed any where).

There is little lever as highlighted, when i put it down its like brake is applied. I hope I'm not being dumb and its not suppose to be put down?

How can align the chain touching the front derailleur?

Little pulley on the rear derailleur is scratched. Perhaps its to do with alignment also? You can see silver under the black paint in 3rd pic.

I lift the rear tyre and turned the cranks (didn't put paddles yet), shifted gears which seem ok.

cletus · 01-07-2020 8:59pm

No idea what the plastic tab is for, I'd take it off.

On your brakes, that a quick release lever to let you take the wheel off easily, it shouldn't make the brake pads make contact. Make sure the wheel is seated properly, and if so, you may have to adjust the brake pads to give clearance for the rim

Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the scratches at the back, other than cosmetically.

I'd imagine these are all things the lbs would do if you were buying from them, but getting it delivered directly, you need to do yourself

*edit* remove the red plastic holding the front derailleur in place, I'd imagine for shipping purposes

Tony04 · 01-07-2020 9:06pm

cletus wrote: »

I'd imagine these are all things the lbs would do if you were buying from them, but getting it delivered directly, you need to do yourself

*edit* remove the red plastic holding the front derailleur in place, I'd imagine for shipping purposes

It's fun like I mean I would rather build my bike out of the box than my lbs unless I'm stuck for time, annoying how some warranties are voided if you do that.
The red plastic hooding is acctually shimano packaging and tells you if you derailleur is clamped on the correct height so I would double check before putting that on

In regards to the op scratches there are completely normal but check if on the high jockey is touching the rear sprocket.

Here's a video for adjusting rim brakes https://youtu.be/VO77mbB8w7I

cletus · 01-07-2020 9:09pm

Tony04 wrote: »

It's fun like I mean I would rather build my bike out of the box than my lbs unless I'm stuck for time, annoying how some warranties are voided if you do that.
The red plastic hooding is acctually shimano packaging and tells you if you derailleur is clamped on the correct height so I would double check before putting that on

In regards to the op scratches there are completely normal but check if on the high jockey is touching the rear sprocket.

Here's a video for adjusting rim brakes https://youtu.be/VO77mbB8w7I

I would too, but even among some of the long time serious cyclists here on boards, that would put us in the minority, it would seem, let alone first time buyer of a bike, and a nice one at that

bbari · 01-07-2020 9:22pm

Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.
How to align the front derailleur? it needs to pushed away fromt the bike.

The little sticker on the front derailleur, I'd that on my 6 yrs old bike til i sold!

I did this but it didn't help. "Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift."

cletus · 01-07-2020 9:24pm

Below is the Park Tools video for adjusting the front derailleur

https://youtu.be/ZNG7g83lI-s

Tony04 · 01-07-2020 9:31pm

cletus wrote: »

I would too, but even among some of the long time serious cyclists here on boards, that would put us in the minority, it would seem, let alone first time buyer of a bike, and a nice one at that

Nah I mean the reason online sales took off is because putting at least extra 10% on the price to build a bike up in a bike shop is just not worth, like ideally you go to a bike shop and try before your buy.

Like I mean assembling a bike is as easy if not easie as an IKEA flat pack, like a lot of young lads on work experience build bikes up in bike shops. Ok you need a torque wrench for carbon but alot can be done with just a hex key. And adjustments arent that hard once you figure out what's going on, and if you do struggle a google will solve your problem.

The only reason to go to a bike shop is if time is money for you or if you need a niche expensive tool, but like to be fair alot of parts manufacturers like shimano make their parts serviceable with the least amount of specialist tools possible

magicbastarder · 01-07-2020 9:31pm

bbari wrote: »

Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.

you mean you've rotated the lever so the brakes open slightly? the lever should be rotated counter-clockwise so the point is basically pointing towards the tyre, i.e. pulling the pads closer to the rim.

the function of this is that the brake pads would generally be too close together to allow you to take the wheel off if the tyre is inflated - as the tyre is wider than the rim, the gap between the pads would typically be narrower than the tyre. so you open up the brakes slightly by opening up that lever if you want to take the wheel off, and close the lever again when the wheel is mounted back on the bike.

if the pads are rubbing when this lever is closed, my guess is that it's rubbing on one side only; this could be caused by two things, the first and most obvious is that the wheel isn't sitting perfectly true in the dropouts (the slots at the end of the fork the axle sits into). easiest test is to loosen the quick release for the front wheel and let the bike's own weight settle the wheel into the dropouts to straighten it, and tighten the quick release back up again.
if it's not that, the whole brake caliper may have rotated slightly on the bolt that holds it to the fork.

Tony04 · 01-07-2020 9:33pm

bbari wrote: »

Thanks for that. Brake pads are now moved away and wheels moving freely.
How to align the front derailleur? it needs to pushed away fromt the bike.

The little sticker on the front derailleur, I'd that on my 6 yrs old bike til i sold!

I did this but it didn't help. "Try shifting the front gears. When you come onto the big ring, try shifting one more time. It might move the derailleur away from the chain. This is called a trim shift."

What's your problem exactly?

Also now your wheels are running freely move them sided to side for lateral play shouldn't be any, make sure your qr is tight.

Spin them and eye them relative to the brake pads to check for any buckle

shaveAbullock · 01-07-2020 9:50pm

cletus wrote: »

Below is the Park Tools video for adjusting the front derailleur

https://youtu.be/ZNG7g83lI-s

There's a lot in that but if it was setup correctly in the factory it may just be a matter of adjusting the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur.

Unlucky to get all these issues, my Canyon was perfect our of the box but it does not look like anything too difficult.

cletus · 01-07-2020 9:54pm

shaveAbullock wrote: »

There's a lot in that but if it was setup correctly in the factory it may just be a matter of adjusting the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur.

Unlucky to get all these issues, my Canyon was perfect our of the box but it does not look like anything too difficult.

There is, but at least you end up with a good grasp of how the front derailleur works, and what it does

bbari · 01-07-2020 10:04pm

Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

bbari · 01-07-2020 10:06pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

if it's not that, the whole brake caliper may have rotated slightly on the bolt that holds it to the fork.

Yes - this is what i did to fix.

cletus · 01-07-2020 10:07pm

bbari wrote: »

Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

I thought he dealt with a couple of different derailleur types.

You could go through the entire process on the video, or as said above, you could try adjusting the tension on the cable with the adjuster barrell, see can you get the cage of the derailleur to move off the chain

shaveAbullock · 01-07-2020 10:11pm

bbari wrote: »

Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

it's normal to be able to move the brakes with a little bit of force, it should be loose enoungh to make adjustments.

Can you move the front derailleur away from the chain with your hand?
If the spring does not move then you will need to advust limit screws.
Once you can move it find the in line barrel adjustor for the cable and tighten it a little while holding the deraillier away from the chain.

Tony04 · 01-07-2020 10:20pm

bbari wrote: »

Brake pads are now away from the wheel with the lever being rotated down. one brake pad was too close and other too far. I'd rotated/centred the whole mechanism just by pushing it a bit, it was a bit loose!

The only adjustment I need is for front derailleur touching the chain when its on the large ring. It needs adjustment to move it slightly out. The link you have shared has a different mechanism. The one i have can't be rotated (like he did in the video).

Alright make sure the bolt is tight.

With the front derailleur shift it into big ring/ small sprocket. Then pull the front derailleur cable to add tension to it, if the chain still rubs your h limit screw needs adjustment if not your barrel adjuster needs adjustment. Edit: make sure you do this before making adjustments.

H limit screw basically blocks derailleur from how much away from the bike it can go or how high a large ring it can go, screwing it clockwise basically means it blocks the derailleur from shifting out however much. Turn it in to much and you'll get rub, out to much and your chain will come off.

Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise feeds out cable effectively lengthening it and slacking the tension, counterclockwise shortens the cable and adds tension. A derailleur works by using pivot screws which are adjusted and held in place by cable tension.

velo.2010 · 01-07-2020 10:42pm

DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.

magicbastarder · 01-07-2020 11:22pm

how can the top cover come off? trying to picture my bikes, and the last part of the derailleur in contact with the cable is the clamp, is it not? why would there be part of the derailleur attached beyond the clamp?
i had guessed it was simply a tab to allow you a firm grip on the cable before final tightening of the clamp.

bbari · 02-07-2020 12:21am

velo.2010 wrote: »

DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.

in this Video at 6:10 and 11:50he put this plastic tab in to a screw which is facing up. in my case this screw is facing the side opposite to the chain. its strange as he is working on 105 R7000.

bbari · 02-07-2020 12:29am

Thanks for your help lads. At least I made some progress. Perhaps I'll have someone to look at the derailleur alignment. I'm sure its nothing major and only needs a small bit of tweaking. I have put the saddle and paddles on, pumped it up I'll go out for ride tomorrow and see how the shifting etc go.

Tony04 · 02-07-2020 8:22am

bbari wrote: »

in this Video at 6:10 and 11:50he put this plastic tab in to a screw which is facing up. in my case this screw is facing the side opposite to the chain. its strange as he is working on 105 R7000.

That's because its shifted up on the big ring?

Also if you shifted up on to the big ring you can use the orange sticker as reference to see if you're derailleur is aligned to the correct height, there should be drawing of chainring teeth on it and should match the height of the chainring teeth.

flatface · 02-07-2020 12:38pm

velo.2010 wrote: »

DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC TAB! That is the top cover for the front derailleur that has come loose during shipping. There are a number of videos on Youtube regarding front derailleur installation — fixing the top cover in place comes towards the end of the procedure.

I was just about to post this too! This part is important, take your time on the set up. Its a shame it arrived not perfectly set-up, my Canyon was very neat.

I would recommend taking a look at the Shimano manuals as well as the videos on youtube. They really help with the specifics of your model 105 which can differ from the videos sometimes.

page 15 of this shows the cover and how to fit.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

It also details the steps on the front derailleur alignment. and their are manuals for the brakes and rear derailleur too.

bbari · 02-07-2020 1:03pm

Thanks for that. I'll have a read when i get home this eve. I think this plastic tab is to keep the cable end in place and doesn't effect mechanically.

There is a plastic bit inside the derailleur which touches the chain, it only needs to be moved by 1mm i think.

I'm sure everyone got their canyon perfect out of the box. Just unfortunate in my case. Ahh there is a lot worse going on in this world at the moment and this is minor in comparison.

Its assembled now, i guess its OK to cycle even with chain touching a bit.

02-07-2020 1:09pm

Just give the left shifter half a click when pedaling to see if that stops the chain rubbing.

dinneenp · 02-07-2020 5:46pm

bbari wrote: »

Thanks for that. I'll have a read when i get home this eve. I think this plastic tab is to keep the cable end in place and doesn't effect mechanically.

There is a plastic bit inside the derailleur which touches the chain, it only needs to be moved by 1mm i think.

I'm sure everyone got their canyon perfect out of the box. Just unfortunate in my case. Ahh there is a lot worse going on in this world at the moment and this is minor in comparison.

Its assembled now, i guess its OK to cycle even with chain touching a bit.

Mine should be in the post atm. Did you receive an email once it was shipped & how long did it take?
Cheers,
Pa

bbari · 02-07-2020 6:05pm

Tony04 wrote:

That's because its shifted up on the big ring?

Yes, that's what it was.

flatface wrote:

page 15 of this shows the cover and how to fit.

Thanks for that. That's gone back in place now.

flatface wrote:

It also details the steps on the front derailleur alignment.

That's next and hopefully last bit.

I'm getting there!

bbari · 02-07-2020 6:06pm

dinneenp wrote:

Mine should be in the post atm. Did you receive an email with tracking number & was it shipped from UK or Germany? Cheers, Pa

Yes. Received email with ups tracking numbers. You can see the status in your canyon account. Shipped from Germany on Friday and delivered on Wed.

bbari · 03-07-2020 3:14pm

Deleted User wrote: »

Just give the left shifter half a click when pedaling to see if that stops the chain rubbing.

No - that didn't help. However, by adjusting the H screw I can see the derailleur moving in/out. It seems that it will either be touch the derailleur when on the larger ring or touching when on smaller.

I went out for 1st ride yesterday. When the chain is on the large ring on the front and 4th/5th on the rear, chain make jerks and makes some noise. Its like its trying to get on the chain and not been able to but it is on it. It doesn't do that when on the 1st 3 small rings. I have to admit that I don't know what I'm doing!

cletus · 03-07-2020 3:20pm

bbari wrote: »

No - that didn't help. However, by adjusting the H screw I can see the derailleur moving in/out. It seems that it will either be touch the derailleur when on the larger ring or touching when on smaller.

I went out for 1st ride yesterday. When the chain is on the large ring on the front and 4th/5th on the rear, chain make jerks and makes some noise. Its like its trying to get on the chain and not been able to but it is on it. It doesn't do that when on the 1st 3 small rings. I have to admit that I don't know what I'm doing!

Essentially, the H and L screws set the outer and inner limit of movement for the derailleur. Once they are set, you shouldn't need to move them again.

The next thing would be indexing the gears. Simply put, this is lining up the appropriate movement at the derailleur with each click of your gear shifter, giving you a distinct gear for each click.

If it was me, I'd look at the park tools video, and establish your H and L limits, and go through the indexing completely.

As it is, you trying little bits of things, to see will any of them work, and it seems unlikely that you'll just happen to hit the right setting.

The derailleur should not be touching the chain regardless of which ring your on

Tony04 · 03-07-2020 4:10pm

Yeh as above you only have to set your limit screws once if you just randomly mess with them you're just creating more problems.

Once that is done you'll need to index your derailleur as everything is new here this can be probably just be done by the barrel adjuster it will probably be on your cable in front of the headtube.

If you problems shifting up in the the bigger sprockets on the back, that's because theres not enough tension in the cable do to so most likely so if you screw the barrel adjuster anti clockwise this will add tension by effectively shortening the cable.
Yeh and +1 for the park tool videos and also they have a video on how the derailleur works which is worth watching.

dinneenp · 03-07-2020 10:17pm

Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.

bbari · 03-07-2020 10:27pm

dinneenp wrote: »

Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.

Agreed, I been to LBS earlier and he told me the disadvantage of buying online! God i didn't know that! I wasn't looking for any help/ favour, i was there to buy his services. He said its only a 10 minutes job but he can't do it for another 10 days. Perhaps its OK now but i don't have confidence in it. I want a pro to look at it to ensure its all good. Paying €10/€20 isn't a problem.

PS: the reason i and you bought online because bikes were/ are new toilet papers.

cletus · 03-07-2020 10:28pm

dinneenp wrote: »

Personally, if I spent that much on a bike (and I have, exact same bike :-) ) I'd pop into a local bike store. For under a tenner they'd ensure that it's all perfect. You don't want to risk doing any damage.
If you'd prefer not to go to a local store, who might be 'feck off with your online purchase and wanting help from me' just pop into Halfords.

Your not going to damage your bike indexing the derailleur, and it's good to understand how the components on the bike work, it makes you more mechanically sympathetic

shaveAbullock · 04-07-2020 2:04am

Shops are always going to prioritise customers who also buy goods from them.
There are some mobile bike mechanics who only service bikes, you could search for one in your area.

cletus · 04-07-2020 9:12am

bbari wrote: »

Agreed, I been to LBS earlier and he told me the disadvantage of buying online! God i didn't know that! I wasn't looking for any help/ favour, i was there to buy his services. He said its only a 10 minutes job but he can't do it for another 10 days. Perhaps its OK now but i don't have confidence in it. I want a pro to look at it to ensure its all good. Paying €10/€20 isn't a problem.

PS: the reason i and you bought online because bikes were/ are new toilet papers.

There's probably a 10 day wait for any new customer walking in the door, regardless of buying the bike online, for the same reason that bikes are the new toilet paper.

If you brought along a bike you had in the shed for 10 years, you'd be told the same thing.

Yes, if you bought the bike there, or if you were a regular customer for smaller bits/services etc, he probably would have squeezed you in, because it's a small job, but that's less to do with where you bought the bike, and more to do with bike shops being out the door busy.

Which is all to say, all the more reason to be able to work on your own bike

bbari · 04-07-2020 10:17am

cletus wrote: »

There's probably a 10 day wait for any new customer walking in the door, regardless of buying the bike online, for the same reason that bikes are the new toilet paper.

If you brought along a bike you had in the shed for 10 years, you'd be told the same thing.

Yes, if you bought the bike there, or if you were a regular customer for smaller bits/services etc, he probably would have squeezed you in, because it's a small job, but that's less to do with where you bought the bike, and more to do with bike shops being out the door busy.

Which is all to say, all the more reason to be able to work on your own bike

I agree with everything you said. I am all up for learning how to do things and in fact I'd love to. Canyon has offered to reimburse up to €30 and having it looked at by pro so i thought why not. Atl east I'll be confident that the job is done right with no cost. I did learn and fixed my breaks at least

Road Bike recommendations - budget c.€1,200

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