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LG CX on special in Harvey Norman this weekend only. Can pay deposit.
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Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,984 Mod ✭✭✭✭
Join Date:Posts: 22580
Final question folks - There's no way the kids are going to always remember to turn this off, they come and come from the room and would often forget that the TV is on.
This leads me to think we'd be a classic candidate for burn-in within a year.
However - I did a small bit of reading and it seems that you can set a moving image screensaver to kick in after a minute or two?
Can anyone confirm that the TV itself can be set up protect itself against my family!??!
I've a little monster too
and can confirm the screensaver kicks in after a minute or two of being paused.
As grogi says, this only applies to the built in apps, not external devices, but the built-in apps are great, so should be fine for kids.
There are also other behind the scenes protections, like an image shiffter, etc.
Haven't noticed any issues with screen burn in after a year.
Richer Sounds offer a 5 year warranty, but I'm not sure if it includes burn in or not. You could ask over on the richer sounds forum here on boards.Very interested in picking one of these up myself. Is the general consensus these are pretty much the best TVs money can buy at the moment? Or at least for a relatively not too ridiculous price?
I was looking at the 65" but I have this unit: https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/lappland-tv-storage-unit-black-brown-30285153/
Any ideas on what the exact measurement of the tv out of the with the stand is? I measured with tape and it looks like a 65" tv should just about fit but it depends on if the bezels around it are massive or not. Will be tight.
Yes, OLED's are pretty much the best TV's you can buy at the moment, outside of ridiculously priced reference monitors. Pretty much all the high end TV's are using OLED now. LG Display make the OLED panel, then LG, Sony, Pioneer, Philips etc. sell TV's built around these panels. There can be differences in features that each model/manufacturer can have, how they are configured, firmware, etc.
In general any OLED is going to be pretty damn nice, but you can look at prices and watch reviews on HDTest and do comparisons on rtings to see the differences and if they matter to you or not.
In terms of size, just look up the specs of any TV you are interested in, it should give you the measurements so you can check if it will fit.0 -
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Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,984 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Join Date:Posts: 22580
Would a decent receiver, speakers and subwoofer not be cheaper and better?
Sound bar looks nice but it's fairly expensive.
.....
I've listened to some soundbars and they lack the bass of a sub with receiver. Looking at the prices of the Sonos stuff you'd get a 5.1 system cheaper.
Well first of all, you can get high end soundbar systems that come with a wireless sub and wireless rear speakers. Mine does, a q950 and the sub could shake the whole building.
Also you aren't comparing like with like. A 5.1 isn't a Dolby Atmos system, Dolby Atmos requires at least 5.1.2, but really you'd want 5.1.4 or 7.1.4 for a proper Dolby Atmos setup.
While my soundbar system isn't cheap at around €1,000, I priced up a 5.1.2 system and they ended up costing at least €2,000 up!
I actually replaced an older 5.1 system with my soundbar system and the soundbar is VASTLY superior to my old 5.1. I can only turn my Soundbar up to 25 (out of 100) before it comes too loud for my home!
Now don't get me wrong, of course if I had dropped say €3000 on a KEF 7.1.2 speaker bundle + new AV, it would likely outclass my soundbar, but then that would have been triple the price!
Plus my better half would murder me if I tried to install 7.1.4 in our living room
There are other practical considerations, needing to run wires everywhere, the look of it, kids running around tripping over the speakers, ease of use for family, etc.
Of course if you have a dedicated home cinema room, go for 7.1.4, but for 99% of people a decent soundbar system is fantastic IMO.1 -
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Sonos Beam doesn't have Dolby Atmos?
No, it doesn't. But it's more a question of if you want a Jack of all trades, master of none, or something that does one thing right
Sonos Beam + IKEA Surrounds should give you excellent surround, but without ground shaking bass nor Atmos. Symfonisks are effectively rebranded Sonos Play Ones (using the same PCM5101A DAC and same TPA3116 D-Class amp) with a few minor cost cutting measures.
LG SL8Y+SPK8-s will give you deep, but boomy bass that has a tendency to overpower the dialogue, questionable surround quality and even more questionable Atmos.
Atmos is money thrown away at that price point IMHO - you really need up-firing satellites (LG SN11, Samsung Q950T, JBL 9.1 et at. Arc has good Atmos performance too, despite being only .2) to actually get anything out of it. My advice is to ignore Atmos completely in your decision process at this price.0 -
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There's software in their TVs aimed at tackling and reducing it. Regardless though, it's not an issue for the regular home user.
That software is there to trick you into false belief that the risk of burn-in is being handed and is not an issue, so you're more comfortable in pulling the trigger.
* Pixel shifter is completely useless. Absolutely and utterly 100% useless. Shifting image by few pixels will not prevent burn-in exp. around logos. It can only make it a bit more blurry on the edges. You would need to shift by 10% horizontally to have a meaningful effect - and that is something you'd notice
* Dimming of static pictures is equally completely useless if we are talking about computer screen, which is in majority static picture. Either the display degrade picture quality, throws the calibration settings away and does the dimming - which undermines its usefulness in professional setup - or it fulfills its duties and doesn't dim. If you can live with a screen that goes out of calibration on its own, you don't really need an OLED in the first place
* Pixel refresher doesn't fight burn-in, it hides it. It is my understanding that its purpose is to precisely measure electricity drawn by parts of the screen and compensate for the fluctuations. In other words, it is designed to hide if parts of your screen started degrading, not to prevent degradation.
* Screen saver obviously works, but it's applications are limited too.
Burn-in is a hardware issue - degradation of the organic compound caused by overheating from constant light emission. On the hardware front the LG Displays have done a good bit and I honestly believe that with this year sets the chances o burn-in are miniscule. But the risk is there.
- enlarged the red cells, so not only it is easier to dissipate power and keep them cool, there is more headroom. Compare C7 vs C1:
- reduce the maximum brightness of the panels: C8 were reaching 1000 nits, C1 have mere 750 nits.
Panasonic have been doing their thing too - adding extra metalic layer at the back of the panel to improve the cooling - which seems to improve things a lot. I haven't read a single incident of burn-in in Panasonic displays, but that might also be caused by smaller numbers of them sold.
I am not saying all that to convince anybody not to buy an OLED display. I have one, it is calibrated in SDR for 150 nits and as bright as possible for HDR. We use it daily to watch shows and movies, kids use it to play games (bloody Minecraft) and watch their stuff. Nobody is babysitting it and nobody is pixel peeping to check if we got burn-in already. I honestly don't know if I have vertical banding either.
I am however prepared that there will be some sooner or later - and I don't care. At the point when it becomes noticeable I will be changing the screen anyway, because this one became obsolete.0 -
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I keep posting a link to a long term test of OLEDs using a case likely to increase the liklihood of burn in, on a previous generation of OLEDs, and there's no risk to a regular user.
What that has to do with the evaluation of software trickery that battles burn-in?
Secondly, the marketing talk is clearly working
Thirdly, Rtings clearly showed that if you primarily watch content with saturated red, orange or yellow static elements, the risk is real. This covers cable logos (as exhibited with CNN logo), UI elements (red health indicators, rev limiters - those stay at the screen all the time in same place) etc. The risk is much lower with desaturated elements, such as BBC logos, game score etc.
Those are results of a vote in avforums:
~60% of 2016 panels have burnIn
~30% of 2017 panels have burnIn.
~6% of 2018 panels have burnIn
The survey was started late 2018, so I expect more of the early non-affected votes would convert to affected by now. So even if the interpret the Rtings C7 test (2017 panel) that burn in is not a risk for people normally using the display, it clearly is for people using their own sets. I doubt they are deliberately abuse those... The risk is steadily decreasing, but it's still there, especially if you want to use the OLED as computer display.0 -
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gaming_needs90 wrote: »Tbh I wouldn't be worried about burn in with Ireland's 6 year rule. I would simply go to the small claims and, most likely, achieve a judgement in my favor.
6 years rule does not give you 6 years protection against any fault. It gives you 6 years of protection against fault present at the moment of purchase. It will be pretty challenging to prove you didn't notice the problems for 5 years watching the darn thing or you weren't aware of the risk associated (you just posted in a thread that states them clearly and laudly) 0 -
6 years rule does not give you 6 years protection against any fault. It gives you 6 years of protection against fault present at the moment of purchase. It will be pretty challenging to prove you didn't notice the problems for 5 years watching the thing or you weren't aware of the risk associated (you just posted in a thread that states them clearly and laudly)
That is true but there has been a few cases I have come across where it has gone in the claimants favor. Besides, the shop will probably agree to a repair before the judgement out of ease.
One of the upcoming mini-LED tvs would probably be a better shout long term.0 -
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micks_address wrote: »did you profile your colorimeter? i was contemplating buying my own but then found out you have to essentially calibrate the meter before using?
That's a rabbit hole, isn't it?
I didn't calibrate it per-se, but I had an ability to compare its results with lab equipment at UCC and it was close enough not to loose my sleep over it. I was more interested in correcting gamma tracking than colour errors - and that is much easier to do.0 -
That's a rabbit hole, isn't it?
I didn't calibrate it per-se, but I had an ability to compare its results lab equipment at UCC and it was close enough not to loose my sleep over it. I was more interested in correcting gamma tracking than colour errors - and that is much easier to do.
yeah i was thinking of calman autocal for sony and irite pro plus.. but i think ill hold out for professional calibration later in the year when travel is open.. the aj90 looks pretty good out of the box but its so good you can see the potential there that calibration will make it even better0 -
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micks_address wrote: »yeah i was thinking of calman autocal for sony and irite pro plus.. but i think ill hold out for professional calibration later in the year when travel is open.. the aj90 looks pretty good out of the box but its so good you can see the potential there that calibration will make it even better
You need an extra license for Calman Autocal on top of the hardware purchase...
Miniscule cost if you have AJ90 though 0
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