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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

19798100102103128

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭secman


    I replaced a saddle on a Trek Domane, tightened it with the Trek torque tool. But it moved on a spin last night, nose of the saddle rose. I had it positioned towards front of the rail trying to replicate distance from handlebars on Emonda (had a bike fit).

    I know geometry is different ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,236 ✭✭✭Idleater


    I have the same predicament, I'm going to try soapy water instead of a plain bucket.

    After that I guess more patience.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,652 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    You check the valve?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,196 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Yep. Well, I held it underwater.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,441 ✭✭✭Rosahane


    Replace the valve and see. Worked for me!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭secman


    Just not worth the hassle if a slow becomes a fast on some cold shirtty day.... I'd change the tube in the comfort of the house, then play around with it....I wouldn't though 😁



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,196 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is it a two bolt clamp? sometimes they can be a bit fiddly.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,804 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    My daughter's bike has a really slow puncture. I was just thinking of letting it become a faster puncture over time. Takes several days to deflate. I suspect it is the valve, now it's been mentioned here.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭secman


    Nah its the one bolt clamp, looks like I need to centre it on the saddle rail which will shorten the reach, I'll do it this evening and try a 50 ish spin in the morning before the heavy rain comes. The Domane is an endurance bike so maybe I am meant to be more upright on it ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 718 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    If you've had a proper bike fit, then you should try replicating the saddle position in relation to the bottom bracket. Then adjust reach using a different length stem if necessary. You're correct that the Domane has a more relaxed geometry to the Emonda, so a slightly shorter reach and higher stack is what you'd expect to find.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Mine has been slipping on the last few rides. I took the saddle and clamp off, cleaned the inserts and applied some copper antiseeze and tightened it back up again. Was fine on the two spins yesterday.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭secman


    Replaced a saddle on the Planet x, a 2 bolt type, much more fiddley than the one bolt system, did a 50km yesterday and no issues.

    Revisited the Domane saddle on Sat , moved the saddle and more or less centred it on the rail, need to look at it again regarding the bottom bracket, reach is definitely shorter now.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,534 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    I have to remove my bottom bracket (a Shimano BB-MT800 which came with the bike) and don't have a TL-FC25 bottom bracket tool/adapter. Any B&M shops around Dublin that sell a TL-FC25, or should I have at it with a vice grips? 😀 Really would prefer not to wait for a week until I can get one delivered. I have the Halfords equivalent of the FC32, which is too large to remove the bracket.




  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Where in Dublin are you? I think I have one you can borrow to get out if a bind. I presume it's the same as the newer Ultegra bbs that require tmaucb adapter



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,534 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    Hi Weepsie, I'm in Shankill but would be happy to travel to borrow something that would work. Looks like 16 teeth and around 43mm diameter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    I might have one and am just off the N11 in Foxrock if that's handier? I'll check in the morning.



  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I'm in glasnevin, work in city centre on Friday. Definitely have one if you want to borrow it and if above isn't available



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,534 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    That'd be fab thanks. Certainly trip into town on Friday if Paul doesn't have one to hand. Have Friday off and was hoping to use the time to work on the bike. Thanks both!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    I have these two. Blue one is similiar but not quite the same(!) as 44mm 16 notch one. You're welcome to borrow them to see if they work. I'm around all day today. PM if required.

    Edit - PS I've just remembered the red one came with an adapter that has FC-TL25 written on one side and FC-TL24 on the other!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,534 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    Thanks Paul! what I need is the adapter with FC-TL25. I think Weepsie has me sorted, but just in case there's a fit issue, if you have FC-TL25, that'd be great to know!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    This is the adapter I have -




  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    That's the same as mine if you want to Dave yourself a trip to town



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,276 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Is that made from metal or plastic? The sh1te plastic Shimano one that I got with my groupset has stripped (I just about got the BB torqued enough last time I had it off to clean), and it's a completely dumb material to make something that's going to require that amount of torque from



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,276 ✭✭✭JMcL



    I had an similar sounding issue with a 105 5800 shifter a couple of years ago. In my case, it became very stiff to shift down (i.e. smaller to larger sprocket) and shifting up did nothing. It happened intermittently for a while, then the shifter just packed up completely.

    The problem for me turned out to be the grease in the shifter body. It had solidified with age/use - apparently reasonably common with Shimano shifters. I fixed it by peeling back the rubber hood from the front, and opening the plate on the side of the shifter body giving access to the internals. Flushed out the original lube with a spray degreaser, flushed that out with water, let it dry (think I might have used a hairdrier here to move it along), liberally applied a PTFE spray lube, wiped away the excess and put everything back together again. It's been performing perfectly since with probably in the order of another 8-10000km on it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,863 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    https://images.app.goo.gl/PKH41f5qfKPVe1fD8

    I have something like that, I never liked using the plastic adapter; even though it never slipped the few times I used it.

    It would also be useful with a over tightened BB in that you could run a threaded bar through and clamp it tight before turning it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Well, in fairness, the whole thing only cost a tenner! It's clearly not workshop quality but I managed to get my BB on with it.



  • Site Banned Posts: 20,686 ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I used my own one this very morning.


    Anyway, there's no stupid maintenance questions but there is stupid maintenance. I slipped while removing pedals and managed to smack myself in the face with my wrench.


    This a year on from possibly breaking a knuckle in similar circumstances.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,175 ✭✭✭BKWDR


    Anyone recommend a bike place in Dublin City for a service?

    Not break the back but who will do a good job. Maybe new chain and gear adjustment as well as service

    Thanks



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,196 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    bee cycles usually get a recommendation. or do you mean in the city centre itself?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,175 ✭✭✭BKWDR


    Well work is in city centre so convenient to that.

    Once I can cycle there and grab a Dublin bike to work I'm good



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I find those plastic adapters fine for installing a BB but useless for removing as they strip as mentioned above. Best to get a metal/steel tool.

    Another thing worth mentioning is that the Ultegra 6800/105 5800 BB is slightly larger than the Dura Ace 9000 so the tools required are slightly different. I'm not sure about the sizing of other iterations of either groupset.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,914 ✭✭✭Russman


    Got a question about SKS Raceblade Pros. I'm putting on a pair and just wondering about the front guard. On my bike, the hydraulic hose running to the front brake is pinned down the back side of the fork - is it safe to put the rubber strap fixing for the guard over the hose ? ie have the hose between the fork and the rubber clamp of the mudguard.

    Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭WOT


    I’ve a steel framed bike that needs the seat tube reamed to diameter as I cannot get a seatpost adjusted without damaging the seatpost with scratches and zig zags.

    Any recommended shop or person in Dublin who has a reamer and experience of doing this?

    I suppose I should just go ask the local shop.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,196 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I had a similar issue and just stuck some sandpaper around a broom handle with some superglue and that sorted it with a bit of elbow grease.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'm on mobile, and I can't seem to generate a link from the Amazon app, but if you Google Adjustable Hand Reamer there's loads of inexpensive options



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭WOT


    Both reasonable suggestions. Looking for a good job done by someone with good tools and experience rather than the best half arsed job I can do myself.

    (…..immediately searches for cheap tools to think about doing it myself)

    Post edited by WOT on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    If you've ever tapped a hole, you can ream a seat tube



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Anyone know if I'm ok running a 30mm or 32mm tire (road tubeless) on a 17mm inner width rim?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Sheldon Brown says yes




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thanks - I wondered was that a bit outdated. For example the Zipp 303s that are replacing these are 23mm inner and are optimised for 28mm tires according to Zipp, but way too small according to this table. I guess the only way is going to be to try it



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 976 ✭✭✭8valve


    Perfectly fine. Hydraulic hose is armoured internally to withstand the hydraulic pressure of using the brake.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 976 ✭✭✭8valve


    If you're getting zig-zags, there's a high point/burr somewhere scratching your seatpost...usually this is found right at the edge where the seatpost enters the lug/seat tube.

    Using a round file, gently clean up the entry edge and see if that helps.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    I'm doing a small bit of restoration on a 90s frame and groupset, the front deraileur seems to be holding the chain on the big ring instead of hte small and then shifting bigger would bring it off the end.

    It looks to be seated correctly, its Braze on so not a twisted clamp. other than setting max and min limits what else should I be looking at?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Possibly too much tension on the cable?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    I thought that might be possible. There’s very little cable length left so will get a new one and see if that helps. Thanks. In the mean time I might just open the cable and see if it will go down with no cable on it



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,172 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,573 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Take the cable off, where does the derailleur sit

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Yep sure enough that did it. I’d say the cable snapped and someone just pulled it tighter. Will get a new one and set it up again



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,573 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    The cable snapping would release the tension completely


    Edit: I think I get you now. It’s too short to put the right tension on it now.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    I meant that it had snapped and been fixed but without enough length they had to over tighten it



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