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Tinkering; Like Guntering for the Connected Generation.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    emaherx wrote: »
    Yes absolutely.
    I'd recommend Shelly switches for this. https://shelly.cloud/

    You wouldn't even need the router as the switch can act as its own access point (unless you need to extend the range using a router)

    Have ordered these.
    Seems a perfect solution to my idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    _Brian wrote: »
    Have ordered these.
    Seems a perfect solution to my idea.

    I've a few here, along with some of the competition like Sonoff and Tuya. The Shelly's are the easiest to setup no need for complicated button presses and messing with Apps. Out of the box they just show up as an access point and have their own webserver.

    You can configure them and use them with any device with a web browser, so you don't even need to install an App.

    Good luck with your automation plans, it starts with lights, but before you know it you start seeing other things that might be more useful with automation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    emaherx wrote: »
    I've a few here, along with some of the competition like Sonoff and Tuya. The Shelly's are the easiest to setup no need for complicated button presses and messing with Apps. Out of the box they just show up as an access point and have their own webserver.

    You can configure them and use them with any device with a web browser, so you don't even need to install an App.

    Good luck with your automation plans, it starts with lights, but before you know it you start seeing other things that might be more useful with automation.

    Thanks.
    First thing is lights as the kids are using the yard more, for some unknown reason back on the 70’s switches were put 7 ft off the ground 🙄

    Then mains fencer but I’ll need internet for that to work.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    _Brian wrote: »
    Then mains fencer but I’ll need internet for that to work.

    You may be surprised how far you could get WiFi to work outdoors ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    Talking about WiFi, anyone got any suggestions for me here. No mobile signal or fixed line broadband here anywhere around the yard/house. I can get a reasonable 4g based Internet in my pumphouse which is about 300m from the yard, with a row of trees in the way. At the minute I have a ubiquiti nanostation sending the Internet on the pumphouse back towards the yard, with some branches taken out of the way, and then 2 more nanostations, one in the yard and one the house, with some sort of AP router to let me get wifi. My problem is that I get 30mb download at the pumphouse router, however I can only get 5mb in the yard or house. I've wasted hours playing around with the nanostations to try and improve this, but no joy. By now I'm thinking of totally scrapping the nanostations and buying afew TP-Link CPE210s, which do the same job, but supposedly alot easier to setup, alongside that I could get afew cheap tp-link access points. The longer term aim would be to have half a dozen APs around the yard as a wifi mesh, and the TP link solution could work out the likes of 100e for each AP/bridge. I've been also trying to get a quote for a professional installation, but I can't even get them to come out and quote me haha, and I'd imagine there won't be any change from like 1000e by time they are finished here ha.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Timmaay wrote: »
    Talking about WiFi, anyone got any suggestions for me here. No mobile signal or fixed line broadband here anywhere around the yard/house. I can get a reasonable 4g based Internet in my pumphouse which is about 300m from the yard, with a row of trees in the way. At the minute I have a ubiquiti nanostation sending the Internet on the pumphouse back towards the yard, with some branches taken out of the way, and then 2 more nanostations, one in the yard and one the house, with some sort of AP router to let me get wifi. My problem is that I get 30mb download at the pumphouse router, however I can only get 5mb in the yard or house. I've wasted hours playing around with the nanostations to try and improve this, but no joy. By now I'm thinking of totally scrapping the nanostations and buying afew TP-Link CPE210s, which do the same job, but supposedly alot easier to setup, alongside that I could get afew cheap tp-link access points. The longer term aim would be to have half a dozen APs around the yard as a wifi mesh, and the TP link solution could work out the likes of 100e for each AP/bridge. I've been also trying to get a quote for a professional installation, but I can't even get them to come out and quote me haha, and I'd imagine there won't be any change from like 1000e by time they are finished here ha.

    Stupid suggestion I’m sure but how about the extenders that use the AC power lines to carry the WiFi?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    _Brian wrote: »
    Stupid suggestion I’m sure but how about the extenders that use the AC power lines to carry the WiFi?

    No comment.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Timmaay wrote: »
    Talking about WiFi, anyone got any suggestions for me here. No mobile signal or fixed line broadband here anywhere around the yard/house. I can get a reasonable 4g based Internet in my pumphouse which is about 300m from the yard, with a row of trees in the way. At the minute I have a ubiquiti nanostation sending the Internet on the pumphouse back towards the yard, with some branches taken out of the way, and then 2 more nanostations, one in the yard and one the house, with some sort of AP router to let me get wifi. My problem is that I get 30mb download at the pumphouse router, however I can only get 5mb in the yard or house. I've wasted hours playing around with the nanostations to try and improve this, but no joy. By now I'm thinking of totally scrapping the nanostations and buying afew TP-Link CPE210s, which do the same job, but supposedly alot easier to setup, alongside that I could get afew cheap tp-link access points. The longer term aim would be to have half a dozen APs around the yard as a wifi mesh, and the TP link solution could work out the likes of 100e for each AP/bridge. I've been also trying to get a quote for a professional installation, but I can't even get them to come out and quote me haha, and I'd imagine there won't be any change from like 1000e by time they are finished here ha.

    That amount of wireless bridges is going to have a negative effect over that sort of distance. A mesh network might be slightly better but you will never get the full speed.

    Is there no option to place the 4G router nearer to your house? Even on a pole?

    Is laying cable an option? 300 meters is too far for a single Ethernet run, so fiber would be preferable but Ethernet could be achieved with 2 repeaters.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭vincenzolorenzo


    emaherx wrote: »
    No comment.....

    Are they a waste of time?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Are they a waste of time?

    In a house, no they are very quick and easy to use. They are not ideal compared to Ethernet. But Timmaay is trying to setup a network between 2 buildings at least 300 Meters apart, in this case they would certainly be a waste of time especially since he already has a better solution in place.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    emaherx wrote: »
    In a house, no they are very quick and easy to use. They are not ideal compared to Ethernet. But Timmaay is trying to setup a network between 2 buildings at least 300 Meters apart, in this case they would certainly be a waste of time especially since he already has a better solution in place.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    _Brian wrote: »
    Thanks.

    Is your yard far from the house _Brian?
    If only a few hundred meters Timmaay's nano stations would be perfect for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    emaherx wrote: »
    That amount of wireless bridges is going to have a negative effect over that sort of distance. A mesh network might be slightly better but you will never get the full speed.

    Is there no option to place the 4G router nearer to your house? Even on a pole?

    Is laying cable an option? 300 meters is too far for a single Ethernet run, so fiber would be preferable but Ethernet could be achieved with 2 repeaters.

    As in each bridge will interfere with each other? It's more so a thick row of trees about half a km blocking the 4g signal, on the edge of a hill. I get a perfect line of slight at the pump house, but almost nothing them 300m in the yard. Maybe if I went 100ft in the air with a pole ha. A cable the whole way would be equally messy, has to pass across a lane way that I don't own, and the farm laneway. Knowing my luck also just when I do all this eir would finally rock up with fibre to the door lol. Or more likely spacex will bring their new starlink broadband to Ireland ha.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Timmaay wrote: »
    As in each bridge will interfere with each other? It's more so a thick row of trees about half a km blocking the 4g signal, on the edge of a hill. I get a perfect line of slight at the pump house, but almost nothing them 300m in the yard. Maybe if I went 100ft in the air with a pole ha. A cable the whole way would be equally messy, has to pass across a lane way that I don't own, and the farm laneway. Knowing my luck also just when I do all this eir would finally rock up with fibre to the door lol. Or more likely spacex will bring their new starlink broadband to Ireland ha.

    Not interfere with each other, just each one will add loss of bandwidth and latency. The less hops the better.

    You could try a hybrid with you have run cables as far as possible/practical and then create one wireless bridge as short a distance as you can. Nano stations could be powered off of the Ethernet cables and mounted on 2 poles.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    300m should be nothing for the nano though, it has a range of several km if clear sign of light. I think my problem is in setting it up, that or the access points I'm using in the house/yard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    300 hundred meters should be fine but you have 4 wireless hops from your 4G router to your end device.

    The issue with wireless transmissions is you will always loose some speed but when you have so many wireless bridges it's sort of like photocopying a photocopy of a photocopy of a photocopy. When you do a speed test what is the Jitter like at each point?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    I replaced one nanostation, and moved it up higher so better line of site through the trees, and now getting a solid 40mb/s in the house here now, woohoo. Took a good few more hours of messing around trying to setup a static ip address on the laptop and hard resetting the nano twice. On hindsight I'd happily of just paid an expert previously to come in and of done it right from day1.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,034 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    Lads and ladies, i want to upgrade the lights in the slatted shed, currently 4ft fluorescent which went in 20 odd years ago when the shed was built, i seen these ones on screwfix https://www.screwfix.ie/p/lap-twin-4ft-led-batten-white-43w-4400lm/6481v

    They seem cheap? am i missing anything? if these are no good can anyone in the know recommend a particular brand or website where i can order them.
    Currently have 4 double 4ft fluorescents in a staggered formation, lighting a 4 bay single with creep at the back.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,136 ✭✭✭endainoz


    I have decided to change from ethernet cable to a nano station device. Have had a lot of problems with the cable recently even though it's supposed to be an outdoor cable.

    It may be overkill to buy something with such large range but I don't mind spending 100e+ if there will be no issues with it once it's installed.

    I have a question as which product to get though, there are quite a few variations out there!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    endainoz wrote: »
    I have decided to change from ethernet cable to a nano station device. Have had a lot of problems with the cable recently even though it's supposed to be an outdoor cable.

    It may be overkill to buy something with such large range but I don't mind spending 100e+ if there will be no issues with it once it's installed.

    I have a question as which product to get though, there are quite a few variations out there!


    What are the issues you have with the cable?

    If less than 100m in length the cable connection should be much more reliable than any wireless setup.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,136 ✭✭✭endainoz


    emaherx wrote: »
    What are the issues you have with the cable?

    If less than 100m in length the cable connection should be much more reliable than any wireless setup.

    Well to be honest there was a small bit of the wire exposed before it was fed into a pipe going under a gate, I may or may not have caught the exposed wire with the strimmer during the summer.

    Anyway, I couldn't actually find any break in the cable but I lost connection to the shed. I have cut the cable back about three or four times but still no signal. I tried to connect the cable to a laptop closer to the router but still no joy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,110 ✭✭✭minerleague


    have desktop computer here 10 y old, ports for mouse keypad etc dont seem to be working right ( although speakers work in all ?) anything I can do? ( have to swap over keyboard and mouse to one port) yeah Im that clueless about tech


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

    If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


    If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,110 ✭✭✭minerleague


    emaherx wrote: »
    I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

    If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


    If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.

    Yeah USB type ( keyboard, mouse, printer, speakers ) intermittent working esp keyboard ( contact cleaner ?? any good)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    you can use contact cleaner, but turn off / unplug PC while doing it and leave to dry.
    But carefully clean out ports as best you can first with a cotton bud or even a cocktail stick.

    Do any of the ports look damaged? like missing the centre piece?



    Its a 10 year old PC so it could simply be on the way out. If you look inside the PC at the system board you may see blown capacitors (Bulging from the top or bottom), if this is the case it can produce symptoms like you describe.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭timple23


    What network sim are people using for gsm socket switches?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Anyone electrically minded on here? Above my potential fire starting skill level :pac:

    I'm trying to make a home made batt latch using 12v battery, programmable timer, and a car door lock actuator.

    The issue I'm having is the cylinder on the side of the actuator gets very hot, with a noticeable smell indoors.

    The timer works in 1 minute increments at minimum, so power is on for a full minute. This is what I suspect is causing the issue but in truth I don't know 100%.

    Any ideas of other causes?

    https://youtu.be/T5Gkkwb1atU


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Do you need to include a pulse relay??

    I’m away from electronics a while so forgive me.

    They can be set that when they are activated they give a pulse out, the length of the pulse can be adjusted.

    It would be a way of avoiding having the actuator receiving signal for a whole minute.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    _Brian wrote: »
    Do you need to include a pulse relay??

    I’m away from electronics a while so forgive me.

    They can be set that when they are activated they give a pulse out, the length of the pulse can be adjusted.

    It would be a way of avoiding having the actuator receiving signal for a whole minute.

    I hadn't heard of one until you mentioned them, I'll take a look


  • Registered Users Posts: 162 ✭✭Ak84


    timple23 wrote: »
    What network sim are people using for gsm socket switches?

    Vodafone sims will work on the the 2G network, which is what a lot of GSM switches work off.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I hadn't heard of one until you mentioned them, I'll take a look

    Yes a pulse relay should sort you out, most are preset for how long they will pulse, so look at the data sheet before ordering to make sure the pulse width is either adjustable or fits your requirement.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    emaherx wrote: »
    Yes a pulse relay should sort you out, most are preset for how long they will pulse, so look at the data sheet before ordering to make sure the pulse width is either adjustable or fits your requirement.

    That's good news as I've just burnt out an actuator :rolleyes:

    Any notion how long or short of a pulse I'd need?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,617 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    That's good news as I've just burnt out an actuator :rolleyes:

    Any notion how long or short of a pulse I'd need?

    Surely 1 second would be fine.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    _Brian wrote: »
    Surely 1 second would be fine.

    I'm told I need a 555 delay timer, saw one on a video and if I can waterproof it then we have the SUCCESS!!! :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I'm told I need a 555 delay timer, saw one on a video and if I can waterproof it then we have the SUCCESS!!! :pac:

    You could definitely use a 555 timer, but would probably need a relay as well to switch the actuator. The pulse relay is probably just a relay with integrated 555 timer.

    I used a 555 timer years ago to get a car through a NCT retest, made the ABS light switch on for a few seconds and then off when the ignition switched on. The ABS was sorted later but parts weren't available before the time ran out for the retest. :D


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    emaherx wrote: »
    You could definitely use a 555 timer, but would probably need a relay as well to switch the actuator. The pulse relay is probably just a relay with integrated 555 timer.

    I used a 555 timer years ago to get a car through a NCT retest, made the ABS light switch on for a few seconds and then off when the ignition switched on. The ABS was sorted later but parts weren't available before the time ran out for the retest. :D

    Explain it to me like I'm 4 :D

    Before this post I thought I would have my 12v battery to timer (set for 1 minute), timer to 555 timer (which I could set to 1 second then off), 555 to actuator which hopefully doesn't then burn out?

    What does the relay do or why would I still need it? (Genuinely don't know)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Explain it to me like I'm 4 :D

    Before this post I thought I would have my 12v battery to timer (set for 1 minute), timer to 555 timer (which I could set to 1 second then off), 555 to actuator which hopefully doesn't then burn out?

    What does the relay do or why would I still need it? (Genuinely don't know)

    You are going to need to grab your crayons and some paper. ;)



    Before we go too far down the rabbit hole have you found something you believe you can connect straight up? The 555 is just a little IC but you may have found a ready built circuit containing a 555 which may well work.

    The 555 is a very useful little IC but it can't handle the same sort of current as your actuator so connecting them directly without a relay will most likely result in that burning smell that is now familiar to you. It also can't function without some other components such as resistors and capacitors. There are entire books dedicated to the 555 and its various configurations and I am an individual sad enough to have purchased more than one in the days before Google.

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=555+timer+book&ref=nb_sb_noss


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    emaherx wrote: »
    You are going to need to grab your crayons and some paper. ;)



    Before we go too far down the rabbit hole have you found something you believe you can connect straight up? The 555 is just a little IC but you may have found a ready built circuit containing a 555 which may well work.

    The 555 is a very useful little IC but it can't handle the same sort of current as your actuator so connecting them directly without a relay will most likely result in that burning smell that is now familiar to you. It also can't function without some other components such as resistors and capacitors. There are entire books dedicated to the 555 and its various configurations and I am an individual sad enough to have purchased more than one in the days before Google.

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=555+timer+book&ref=nb_sb_noss

    I was hoping for finger paints but crayons will do in a pinch!

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Shield-Switch-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01K7CSPFM

    That's just something I randomly picked from Dr. Google. Would this work?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I was hoping for finger paints but crayons will do in a pinch!

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Shield-Switch-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01K7CSPFM

    That's just something I randomly picked from Dr. Google. Would this work?

    Ok, I believe that should work.
    The 555 is just the small black chip, the larger Blue Box is a relay so that should have you covered as long as your actuator requires less than 10 amps. Good luck with your build and don't forget to share your finished product ;)


    Thanks to Amazon/wish/Alibaba for the endless supply of prebuilt modules people are never going to learn the basic circuit designs :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,110 ✭✭✭minerleague


    emaherx wrote: »
    I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

    If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


    If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.

    Just to say got one of these (4 on one port) belated thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Just to say got one of these (4 on one port) belated thanks

    Great, glad to help.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    emaherx wrote: »
    Ok, I believe that should work.
    The 555 is just the small black chip, the larger Blue Box is a relay so that should have you covered as long as your actuator requires less than 10 amps. Good luck with your build and don't forget to share your finished product ;)


    Thanks to Amazon/wish/Alibaba for the endless supply of prebuilt modules people are never going to learn the basic circuit designs :D

    I would be quite interested to learn how it works, I'm under time constraint at the moment as I'd hoped to get this perfected before lambs hit the ground :o That and I have in the region of 20 unread books on the shelf/kindle to get to as well.

    Quite excited to see it in actually tbh, the thinking behind it is it will hopefully be easier to moved ewes and young lambs from paddock to paddock under their own steam rather than the dopey farmer and his dog which was chaos last year. I'll also be able to do multiple paddock moves in a day if it works well. That's hard to do with Batt Latches being €500 or so a pop :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I would be quite interested to learn how it works, I'm under time constraint at the moment as I'd hoped to get this perfected before lambs hit the ground :o That and I have in the region of 20 unread books on the shelf/kindle to get to as well.

    Quite excited to see it in actually tbh, the thinking behind it is it will hopefully be easier to moved ewes and young lambs from paddock to paddock under their own steam rather than the dopey farmer and his dog which was chaos last year. I'll also be able to do multiple paddock moves in a day if it works well. That's hard to do with Batt Latches being €500 or so a pop :eek:

    Don't get me wrong I'm all for these cheap modules, it makes for very quick product design with relatively limited knowledge, but has made 4 years of circuit theory in college fairly redundant or at least it would have if I'd actually paid attention :D

    Good luck with it, it's exactly the type of project that I was looking for when I started this thread. Keep us updated on your progress and/or fire situation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭Timmaay


    I'm not gonna lie I got myself a batt latch (for roughly 450e), and this morning the cows weren't quite smart enough to walk back the 20ft to the gap themselves (worked out awkward the way I divided up the paddock). If I had an electrics design team under me to put the millions of designs into production that go through my head, I'd put a camera and loudspeaker on it also ha, so I can see and shout something at the cows to encourage them up (once they don't ignore me lol). Ok maybe I should just get a Boston dynamics dog instead. Or just get up 5mins earler hmmmmmm.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'd been thinking about an audible thingy for my build, but it's more work than I want at the minute. Instead I might fix some visual tape or something to the bungee gate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Timmaay wrote: »
    I'm not gonna lie I got myself a batt latch (for roughly 450e), and this morning the cows weren't quite smart enough to walk back the 20ft to the gap themselves (worked out awkward the way I divided up the paddock). If I had an electrics design team under me to put the millions of designs into production that go through my head, I'd put a camera and loudspeaker on it also ha, so I can see and shout something at the cows to encourage them up (once they don't ignore me lol). Ok maybe I should just get a Boston dynamics dog instead. Or just get up 5mins earler hmmmmmm.

    Oddly enough, I read on another forum that the person used an ice cream tub to make a louder noise when they end came back to hit it - so the cows would take more notice...


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    On another topic, one which I'm not going to be pursuing just now but maybe someone else might. Would this device interrupt the power of a battery energiser after the energiser?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTU5024-12V-GSM-Gate-Opener-Relay-Switch-Remote-Control-Wireless-Door-Opener-/224026313910

    The only way I can turn mine on or off is to walk back to it, unlock the box, and physically switch it off, and repeat the journey to turn it on again.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Best device I bought on amazon for less than a tenner is a wifi socket for the electric fence
    It needs internet access which we have in the parlour
    But you cculd use one if you powered your fence from a garden shed in range of the house wifi or the house itself

    Its app will turn off or on the fence anywhere via mobile internet from your phone once you pair the app to the scket


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    On another topic, one which I'm not going to be pursuing just now but maybe someone else might. Would this device interrupt the power of a battery energiser after the energiser?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTU5024-12V-GSM-Gate-Opener-Relay-Switch-Remote-Control-Wireless-Door-Opener-/224026313910

    The only way I can turn mine on or off is to walk back to it, unlock the box, and physically switch it off, and repeat the journey to turn it on again.

    No not after the energizer it will melt as the relay won't be rated to 9000 volts. But between the battery and the energizer no bother.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 335 ✭✭rounders


    Best device I bought on amazon for less than a tenner is a wifi socket for the electric fence
    It needs internet access which we have in the parlour
    But you cculd use one if you powered your fence from a garden shed in range of the house wifi or the house itself

    Its app will turn off or on the fence anywhere via mobile internet from your phone once you pair the app to the scket

    You can gets ones based on a sim card so no wifi needed. I've one of these in a out house with the Fence plugged in. Needing to keep the sim alive is the only issue. Networks seem to kill the sim after a while if you aren't spending credit

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Socket-GSM-Smart-Plug/dp/B01GQKCI7U/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=GSM+REMOTE+CONTROL+SOCKET+POWER+SWITCH+PLUG&qid=1620132473&s=diy&sr=1-5

    EDIT - You can get ones with a Irish plug, just can't find the link right now. Talking about 30 - 40 quid


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