the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

AaronEnnis · 24-01-2021 8:16pm

Any tips for putting on an indoor turbo tyre? I ordered it from Decathlon and it arrived completely out of shape and folded, finding it very tricky to keep enough of a shape to put it on like a regular tyre.

wheelo01 · 24-01-2021 8:46pm

I had a bit of a mechanical while out today- bike felt like the brakes had engaged and were trying to slow down. (Rear wheel)
Removed the brake pads, wheel still wouldn't spin freely. Loosened the skewer by about one full turn as I was going to take the wheel off, and it spun freely. Left it like that and limped it home.
I took the wheel off when I got home, freed the 2.5mm Allen key, spun the nut(?) Off, pulled on the axle, and the cassette stayed attached - is this normal? Or is this where my problem lies?

magicbastarder · 24-01-2021 8:58pm

freed which 2.5mm allen key? is it a through axle?

wheelo01 · 24-01-2021 10:13pm

Yes, skewers, I believe they're called, fulcrum racing 66 wheels

CramCycle · 24-01-2021 10:26pm

Possibly your skewers weren't tight in the first place and a small bump put the wheel at a funny angle, try and put the wheel back in and see does it work?

magicbastarder · 24-01-2021 10:36pm

if you mean the skewers came out and the cassette remained in place, this is entirely as expected; the job of the skewer is to hold the wheel into the the frame and nothing more. the cassette is held on with a locknut of its own, which requires a tool whose only job is to remove the cassette.

wheelo01 · 24-01-2021 11:02pm

Okay, that makes sense, so my problem is elsewhere, I'll have another look tomorrow, maybe the bearing seized?
Crancycle, the skewer was tight when it happened, when I was opening it, the wheel would spin freely, when I tightened it up again, it wouldn't spin.

Anyway, I'll look again tomorrow

Thanks for the replies.

magicbastarder · 24-01-2021 11:08pm

does the axle itself spin freely? the axle is basically the tube the rod of the skewer slides through.

wheelo01 · 24-01-2021 11:36pm

I've just had a bit of time to myself, I took it apart again. The bearing on the rotor side is seized, thus not allowing the axle to spin freely.
I luckily have some spare bearings here, so I'll tap the seized one out when I can make noise tomorrow, then replace it.

Thanks again

JMcL · 25-01-2021 12:08pm

AaronEnnis wrote: »

Any tips for putting on an indoor turbo tyre? I ordered it from Decathlon and it arrived completely out of shape and folded, finding it very tricky to keep enough of a shape to put it on like a regular tyre.

While I've never fitted a turbo tyre, I imagine it's no different to any other folding tyre. What I do for these is straighten it out and turn it the right way out as much as possible. Get one bead onto the rim (either side), put a tube in and inflate it just enough so the tyre holds shape then work your way around and seat the other bead. You might be able to do it all with your thumbs, but if you have to resort to levers to finish it off (I usually do) , just be careful not to nip the tube

There's a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9N3U2iQ598

jamesd · 25-01-2021 6:26pm

Got charged €60 labor from local bike shop to change my gear cables - Is this expensive ?
Cables were separate at €6 each, bike is a cube road bike and cables are internal.

cletus · 25-01-2021 6:28pm

It seems expensive to me, but I've never paid to have work done on a bike. Perhaps they have a minimum labour charge, an hour or part thereof.

Did you query it in the shop?

magicbastarder · 25-01-2021 6:39pm

yes, i'd say that's expensive, unless your bike is awkward to change cables on.
should be less than an hour's work for a competent mechanic.

CramCycle · 25-01-2021 6:49pm

Presuming your bike wasn't in a complete heap and it was a normal job, it seems pricey, my LBS used to do a full service for only slightly more (and include cables). There might be a reason eg can't have enough mechanics working side by side so needs to charge more to keep the business afloat but for what should be a 10 to 15 minute job for someone not in a shop, I'd be a bit miffed but if people are paying, I'd leave them to let others pay that in future and not go back.

8valve · 25-01-2021 7:06pm

jamesd wrote: »

Got charged €60 labor from local bike shop to change my gear cables - Is this expensive ?
Cables were separate at €6 each, bike is a cube road bike and cables are internal.

speaking from experience, some bikes (the unfortunate minority with internal tubing) are a matter of minutes to remove and replace an internally routed gear cable...

some, however, are an absolute ba5tard and will slowly but surely drain away your will to live, along with your faith in humanity and whatever deity you pray to...even when using an internal cable routing kit.

add a smattering of road salt/dirt/cow5hit/dried human sweat salt from indoor trainer use and your suddenly into cable end caps and cable stops stuck into the frame (usually carbon so you can't use force/leverage), even when their retaining screws (also corroded and seized and sometimes rounded out cos the owner has 'had a go') have been removed.

then, la piece de resistance, the hanger is a little bit bent from the time Fintan/Oisin/Declan/Karen knocked everybody's bikes like dominoes at the coffee stop a few months ago, so that needs realignment, along with the limit screws needing tuning...which are also seized with 5hite and sweat.

welcome to my world.

when I am king, anyone who attempts to bring a dirty bike in to a bike shop for mechanical service or repair, will be the first against the wall.

just saying.

lissard · 25-01-2021 7:36pm

Couldn't agree more - changing internally routed gear cables is a dark night of the soul. No amount of money would compensate me for the ****e it entails.

cletus · 25-01-2021 7:46pm

@8valve: what's the average rate per hour for labour in a bike shop

07Lapierre · 25-01-2021 7:52pm

8valve wrote: »

speaking from experience, some bikes (the unfortunate minority with internal tubing) are a matter of minutes to remove and replace an internally routed gear cable...

some, however, are an absolute ba5tard and will slowly but surely drain away your will to live, along with your faith in humanity and whatever deity you pray to...even when using an internal cable routing kit.

add a smattering of road salt/dirt/cow5hit/dried human sweat salt from indoor trainer use and your suddenly into cable end caps and cable stops stuck into the frame (usually carbon so you can't use force/leverage), even when their retaining screws (also corroded and seized and sometimes rounded out cos the owner has 'had a go') have been removed.

then, la piece de resistance, the hanger is a little bit bent from the time Fintan/Oisin/Declan/Karen knocked everybody's bikes like dominoes at the coffee stop a few months ago, so that needs realignment, along with the limit screws needing tuning...which are also seized with 5hite and sweat.

welcome to my world.

when I am king, anyone who attempts to bring a dirty bike in to a bike shop for mechanical service or repair, will be the first against the wall.

just saying.

Would you not clean the bike before working on it? :P

CramCycle · 25-01-2021 7:52pm

lissard wrote: »

Couldn't agree more - changing internally routed gear cables is a dark night of the soul. No amount of money would compensate me for the ****e it entails.

Tape some thread onto the end of the old cable, pull cable through. Tape new cable onto thread, pull back through. Provided the bike is in good nick, it is not the worst job in the world. As 8valve said though, I am saying on the basis of the bike being in good condition and minimal adjustments, it could be an awful experience and you could find yourself longing for the cold embrace of death near the end. If it took an hour, €60 seems fine, but they should have said that in the shop, it wold be a bad day if it took an hour.

8valve · 25-01-2021 8:36pm

cletus wrote: »

@8valve: what's the average rate per hour for labour in a bike shop

I've heard of some bigger, new breed of stores charging between €40-60 per hour, regardless of the task at hand.

I work for a small family owned, traditional bike shop (I could be replacing a pressfit BB on a carbon super bike, then adjusting the rod brakes on a high nelly straight afterwards!) and they, like many of their kind, tend to charge by the job e.g. wheel truing and a couple of new spokes for twenty quid, new tube fitted for twelve quid, etc

8valve · 25-01-2021 8:37pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Would you not clean the bike before working on it? :P

you're dead to me:D

07Lapierre · 25-01-2021 8:43pm

8valve wrote: »

you're dead to me:D

Nothing worse than working on a dirty bike. I do most of my own repairs. I did have to leave my bike into a bike shop once and I cleaned it before doing so. I would be embarrassed leaving a dirty bike in for repair.

jamesd · 26-01-2021 12:17am

I didn't query the price as the mechanic said it was a tough one to get the cables through.
Shop is a bike repair shop only, one mechanic owns / works in it.
Bike was spotless going in, I'd be the same as couldn't leave a dirty bike into someone.

g0g · 26-01-2021 7:15pm

Is there any type of glue specifically I should be using to fix the below?

Bike is on smart trainer. Chain came off yesterday and appears to have knocked off a little metal plate that sits on the side of the right chain stay just behind the chain rings. I had never noticed this thin piece of metal there but assume it's to prevent chain rubbing off frame when it comes off? Is it mainly cosmetic or can a fallen-off-chain do a lot of damage in that area?

Main question - will any old glue do the job? (carbon frame)

8valve · 26-01-2021 9:06pm

g0g wrote: »

Is there any type of glue specifically I should be using to fix the below?

Bike is on smart trainer. Chain came off yesterday and appears to have knocked off a little metal plate that sits on the side of the right chain stay just behind the chain rings. I had never noticed this thin piece of metal there but assume it's to prevent chain rubbing off frame when it comes off? Is it mainly cosmetic or can a fallen-off-chain do a lot of damage in that area?

Main question - will any old glue do the job? (carbon frame)

Araldite epoxy glue or similar will do fine.

Superglue mightn't hold up to irish weather too well.

Double sided automotive trim tape will also work, if you know a panel beater...that stuff hols badges on cars for years in any weather.

ADTuKz · 28-01-2021 7:04pm

I got my bike serviced earlier in my LBS but forgot to mention that it was missing a bolt in the handlebar stem. It is on a 2014 giant defy road bike, there are two bolts holding the handlebar stem onto the headset. The bottom one is missing. (I hope that is the right terminology)

I have looked around a bit on ebay + online retailers but can't find one that looks exactly like it. Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking online so I can order one of these to replace the missing one? Or is it best just to go back to my LBS and hope they have some? Not sure how I lost it or when it fell out.

Weepsie · 28-01-2021 7:10pm

Presume you mean this bottom one here, and if so, just call into LBS.

I'd probably expect an LBS to spot that though

ADTuKz · 28-01-2021 7:11pm

Thanks for the reply yes the very bottom white arrow is the piece I am missing! I will take it back this weekend and see if they have one.

CramCycle · 28-01-2021 9:14pm

ADTuKz wrote: »

Thanks for the reply yes the very bottom white arrow is the piece I am missing! I will take it back this weekend and see if they have one.

Unlikely they won't but a hardware shop will also have them, or Radionics, hell I think I have about 50 of them in my spare bolts drawer at work.

Seve OB · 28-01-2021 11:25pm

Got my tyres, they are folded ones.
Do they need to be out for a while before putting them on in order to get into shape?

rayman1 · 28-01-2021 11:29pm

Seve OB wrote: »

Got my tyres, they are folded ones.
Do they need to be out for a while before putting them on in order to get into shape?

No. Just open them out into the circular shape and they can be fitted straight away.

CormacH94 · 29-01-2021 2:30pm

Any chance anyone knows the weight of a Lapierre Audacio 400 frame and fork? Can't find the weight of the frame and fork alone - just full build weights

MojoMaker · 29-01-2021 3:09pm

CormacH94 wrote: »

Any chance anyone knows the weight of a Lapierre Audacio 400 frame and fork? Can't find the weight of the frame and fork alone - just full build weights

From Bikeradar.com....

"The curved carbon fork looks classical, and at 530g complements the 1,365g frame, both being impressively light for the price even compared to the latest contenders. The overall weight is also competitive against several of the £1,000 bikes that we’ve tested recently."

CormacH94 · 29-01-2021 4:50pm

MojoMaker wrote: »

From Bikeradar.com....

"The curved carbon fork looks classical, and at 530g complements the 1,365g frame, both being impressively light for the price even compared to the latest contenders. The overall weight is also competitive against several of the £1,000 bikes that we’ve tested recently."

Ah I usually skip over the reviews, cheers

Seve OB · 29-01-2021 5:37pm

for ages i used to think this thread was for mountain bikes
mb's at the start of thread title is confusing
might be worth renaming it and taking out the mb's?

CramCycle · 29-01-2021 7:46pm

Seve OB wrote: »

for ages i used to think this thread was for mountain bikes
mb's at the start of thread title is confusing
might be worth renaming it and taking out the mb's?

I thought the same for a long time, months before I realised it was Magics thread

magicbastarder · 29-01-2021 7:49pm

happy to change if it's causing any confusion.

Type 17 · 29-01-2021 8:31pm

New rule: only questions about road bikes. :P:D

Seve OB · 29-01-2021 8:36pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

happy to change if it's causing any confusion.

Fair play magic,

wheelo01 · 29-01-2021 9:12pm

I think no may be about to prove the thread title wrong

Is a seized sealed bearing permanently seized?

Type 17 · 29-01-2021 9:17pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

I think no may be about to prove the thread title wrong

Is a seized sealed bearing permanently seized?

Yep, it's toast.

In engineering terms, things like engine parts can be seized (stuck) due to expansion (overheating), and will still run when they cool down again, but almost always, they will have run when at least part-seized, and that's when they'll have been damaged.

Mercian Pro · 31-01-2021 9:14pm

Has anyone successfully managed to fully clean out and relube outer cables when replacing inner cables or should I just replace the lot? The cables are external but replacing the inners only seems a lot more straightforward.
Apologies if this was asked and answered before.

cletus · 31-01-2021 9:32pm

Honestly, I'd be inclined to change them all, if you have the tools. It shouldn't be too much extra work.

Edit - Is there a specific cable you're having trouble with or are you replacing them all

07Lapierre · 31-01-2021 10:07pm

Mercian Pro wrote: »

Has anyone successfully managed to fully clean out and relube outer cables when replacing inner cables or should I just replace the lot? The cables are external but replacing the inners only seems a lot more straightforward.
Apologies if this was asked and answered before.

If they were internal routed cables, I'd understand, but as you have external cables, just replace the complete cables. You could lube an internal cable, but your just "kicking the can down the road".

Invest in a good cable set (Jagwire). It makes a big difference.

Mercian Pro · 31-01-2021 10:16pm

cletus wrote: »

Honestly, I'd be inclined to change them all, if you have the tools. It shouldn't be too much extra work.

Edit - Is there a specific cable you're having trouble with or are you replacing them all

All except the front brake are a bit draggy so I'll probably do them all. I suppose I could treat myself to some new bar tape at the same time.

CramCycle · 31-01-2021 10:21pm

If you really don't want to, when you pull out the old cable, GT85 with the nozzle extender, and blast it out should do the job nicely.

Thargor · 01-02-2021 10:04am

Ive been leaving the house when its dark and getting home when its dark all Winter and this morning coming out of Centra Id parked my bike under an ATMs floodlight and the chain was bright orange with rust, never had that happen before. Should I try salvaging it or just go get a new one? (chain not bike). I dont think there was anything wrong with it 4 days ago when I was fitting new mudguards, this seems to have happened very suddenly. The rest of the drivetrain is fine, a bit bizarre tbh. I had to get back to work in a hurry so I threw a load of wet lube on it and cycled it to work and it seems fine now but theres definitely rust under the oil.

cletus · 01-02-2021 10:19am

It's most likely just a small bit of surface rust. A good clean and lube, and it'll be fine

magicbastarder · 01-02-2021 10:41am

the rust is a result of the roads being gritted in the cold weather. the salt has done that; happened me too recently, posted about it here a week or two back.

MojoMaker · 01-02-2021 11:55am

Chain off and soak, or good wipe and relube?

Seeing the same thing here, wondered what was up as last winter and winter before - no issue.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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