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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 53,136 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you mean the skewers came out and the cassette remained in place, this is entirely as expected; the job of the skewer is to hold the wheel into the the frame and nothing more. the cassette is held on with a locknut of its own, which requires a tool whose only job is to remove the cassette.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 684 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    Okay, that makes sense, so my problem is elsewhere, I'll have another look tomorrow, maybe the bearing seized?
    Crancycle, the skewer was tight when it happened, when I was opening it, the wheel would spin freely, when I tightened it up again, it wouldn't spin.

    Anyway, I'll look again tomorrow

    Thanks for the replies.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 53,136 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    does the axle itself spin freely? the axle is basically the tube the rod of the skewer slides through.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 684 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    I've just had a bit of time to myself, I took it apart again. The bearing on the rotor side is seized, thus not allowing the axle to spin freely.
    I luckily have some spare bearings here, so I'll tap the seized one out when I can make noise tomorrow, then replace it.

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭JMcL


    AaronEnnis wrote: »
    Any tips for putting on an indoor turbo tyre? I ordered it from Decathlon and it arrived completely out of shape and folded, finding it very tricky to keep enough of a shape to put it on like a regular tyre.

    While I've never fitted a turbo tyre, I imagine it's no different to any other folding tyre. What I do for these is straighten it out and turn it the right way out as much as possible. Get one bead onto the rim (either side), put a tube in and inflate it just enough so the tyre holds shape then work your way around and seat the other bead. You might be able to do it all with your thumbs, but if you have to resort to levers to finish it off (I usually do) , just be careful not to nip the tube

    There's a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9N3U2iQ598


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,510 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Got charged €60 labor from local bike shop to change my gear cables - Is this expensive ?
    Cables were separate at €6 each, bike is a cube road bike and cables are internal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,455 ✭✭✭cletus


    It seems expensive to me, but I've never paid to have work done on a bike. Perhaps they have a minimum labour charge, an hour or part thereof.

    Did you query it in the shop?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 53,136 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    yes, i'd say that's expensive, unless your bike is awkward to change cables on.
    should be less than an hour's work for a competent mechanic.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,062 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Presuming your bike wasn't in a complete heap and it was a normal job, it seems pricey, my LBS used to do a full service for only slightly more (and include cables). There might be a reason eg can't have enough mechanics working side by side so needs to charge more to keep the business afloat but for what should be a 10 to 15 minute job for someone not in a shop, I'd be a bit miffed but if people are paying, I'd leave them to let others pay that in future and not go back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭8valve


    jamesd wrote: »
    Got charged €60 labor from local bike shop to change my gear cables - Is this expensive ?
    Cables were separate at €6 each, bike is a cube road bike and cables are internal.


    speaking from experience, some bikes (the unfortunate minority with internal tubing) are a matter of minutes to remove and replace an internally routed gear cable...


    some, however, are an absolute ba5tard and will slowly but surely drain away your will to live, along with your faith in humanity and whatever deity you pray to...even when using an internal cable routing kit.


    add a smattering of road salt/dirt/cow5hit/dried human sweat salt from indoor trainer use and your suddenly into cable end caps and cable stops stuck into the frame (usually carbon so you can't use force/leverage), even when their retaining screws (also corroded and seized and sometimes rounded out cos the owner has 'had a go') have been removed.


    then, la piece de resistance, the hanger is a little bit bent from the time Fintan/Oisin/Declan/Karen knocked everybody's bikes like dominoes at the coffee stop a few months ago, so that needs realignment, along with the limit screws needing tuning...which are also seized with 5hite and sweat.


    welcome to my world.


    when I am king, anyone who attempts to bring a dirty bike in to a bike shop for mechanical service or repair, will be the first against the wall.


    just saying.


    :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 555 ✭✭✭lissard


    Couldn't agree more - changing internally routed gear cables is a dark night of the soul. No amount of money would compensate me for the ****e it entails. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,455 ✭✭✭cletus


    @8valve: what's the average rate per hour for labour in a bike shop


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,417 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    8valve wrote: »
    speaking from experience, some bikes (the unfortunate minority with internal tubing) are a matter of minutes to remove and replace an internally routed gear cable...


    some, however, are an absolute ba5tard and will slowly but surely drain away your will to live, along with your faith in humanity and whatever deity you pray to...even when using an internal cable routing kit.


    add a smattering of road salt/dirt/cow5hit/dried human sweat salt from indoor trainer use and your suddenly into cable end caps and cable stops stuck into the frame (usually carbon so you can't use force/leverage), even when their retaining screws (also corroded and seized and sometimes rounded out cos the owner has 'had a go') have been removed.


    then, la piece de resistance, the hanger is a little bit bent from the time Fintan/Oisin/Declan/Karen knocked everybody's bikes like dominoes at the coffee stop a few months ago, so that needs realignment, along with the limit screws needing tuning...which are also seized with 5hite and sweat.


    welcome to my world.


    when I am king, anyone who attempts to bring a dirty bike in to a bike shop for mechanical service or repair, will be the first against the wall.


    just saying.


    :D

    Would you not clean the bike before working on it? :P


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,062 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    lissard wrote: »
    Couldn't agree more - changing internally routed gear cables is a dark night of the soul. No amount of money would compensate me for the ****e it entails. :)

    Tape some thread onto the end of the old cable, pull cable through. Tape new cable onto thread, pull back through. Provided the bike is in good nick, it is not the worst job in the world. As 8valve said though, I am saying on the basis of the bike being in good condition and minimal adjustments, it could be an awful experience and you could find yourself longing for the cold embrace of death near the end. If it took an hour, €60 seems fine, but they should have said that in the shop, it wold be a bad day if it took an hour.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭8valve


    cletus wrote: »
    @8valve: what's the average rate per hour for labour in a bike shop


    I've heard of some bigger, new breed of stores charging between €40-60 per hour, regardless of the task at hand.


    I work for a small family owned, traditional bike shop (I could be replacing a pressfit BB on a carbon super bike, then adjusting the rod brakes on a high nelly straight afterwards!) and they, like many of their kind, tend to charge by the job e.g. wheel truing and a couple of new spokes for twenty quid, new tube fitted for twelve quid, etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭8valve


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Would you not clean the bike before working on it? :P




    you're dead to me:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,417 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    8valve wrote: »
    you're dead to me:D

    Nothing worse than working on a dirty bike. I do most of my own repairs. I did have to leave my bike into a bike shop once and I cleaned it before doing so. I would be embarrassed leaving a dirty bike in for repair.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,510 ✭✭✭jamesd


    I didn't query the price as the mechanic said it was a tough one to get the cables through.
    Shop is a bike repair shop only, one mechanic owns / works in it.
    Bike was spotless going in, I'd be the same as couldn't leave a dirty bike into someone.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,806 ✭✭✭g0g


    Is there any type of glue specifically I should be using to fix the below?

    Bike is on smart trainer. Chain came off yesterday and appears to have knocked off a little metal plate that sits on the side of the right chain stay just behind the chain rings. I had never noticed this thin piece of metal there but assume it's to prevent chain rubbing off frame when it comes off? Is it mainly cosmetic or can a fallen-off-chain do a lot of damage in that area?

    Main question - will any old glue do the job? (carbon frame)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭8valve


    g0g wrote: »
    Is there any type of glue specifically I should be using to fix the below?

    Bike is on smart trainer. Chain came off yesterday and appears to have knocked off a little metal plate that sits on the side of the right chain stay just behind the chain rings. I had never noticed this thin piece of metal there but assume it's to prevent chain rubbing off frame when it comes off? Is it mainly cosmetic or can a fallen-off-chain do a lot of damage in that area?

    Main question - will any old glue do the job? (carbon frame)


    Araldite epoxy glue or similar will do fine.


    Superglue mightn't hold up to irish weather too well.


    Double sided automotive trim tape will also work, if you know a panel beater...that stuff hols badges on cars for years in any weather.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 ADTuKz


    I got my bike serviced earlier in my LBS but forgot to mention that it was missing a bolt in the handlebar stem. It is on a 2014 giant defy road bike, there are two bolts holding the handlebar stem onto the headset. The bottom one is missing. (I hope that is the right terminology)

    I have looked around a bit on ebay + online retailers but can't find one that looks exactly like it. Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking online so I can order one of these to replace the missing one? Or is it best just to go back to my LBS and hope they have some? Not sure how I lost it or when it fell out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 ADTuKz


    Thanks for the reply yes the very bottom white arrow is the piece I am missing! I will take it back this weekend and see if they have one.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,062 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    ADTuKz wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply yes the very bottom white arrow is the piece I am missing! I will take it back this weekend and see if they have one.

    Unlikely they won't but a hardware shop will also have them, or Radionics, hell I think I have about 50 of them in my spare bolts drawer at work.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,319 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Got my tyres, they are folded ones.
    Do they need to be out for a while before putting them on in order to get into shape?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 191 ✭✭rayman1


    Seve OB wrote: »
    Got my tyres, they are folded ones.
    Do they need to be out for a while before putting them on in order to get into shape?

    No. Just open them out into the circular shape and they can be fitted straight away.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    Any chance anyone knows the weight of a Lapierre Audacio 400 frame and fork? Can't find the weight of the frame and fork alone - just full build weights


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,689 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    Any chance anyone knows the weight of a Lapierre Audacio 400 frame and fork? Can't find the weight of the frame and fork alone - just full build weights

    From Bikeradar.com....

    "The curved carbon fork looks classical, and at 530g complements the 1,365g frame, both being impressively light for the price even compared to the latest contenders. The overall weight is also competitive against several of the £1,000 bikes that we’ve tested recently."


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 173 ✭✭CormacH94


    MojoMaker wrote: »
    From Bikeradar.com....

    "The curved carbon fork looks classical, and at 530g complements the 1,365g frame, both being impressively light for the price even compared to the latest contenders. The overall weight is also competitive against several of the £1,000 bikes that we’ve tested recently."


    Ah I usually skip over the reviews, cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,319 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    for ages i used to think this thread was for mountain bikes
    mb's at the start of thread title is confusing
    might be worth renaming it and taking out the mb's?


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,062 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Seve OB wrote: »
    for ages i used to think this thread was for mountain bikes
    mb's at the start of thread title is confusing
    might be worth renaming it and taking out the mb's?

    I thought the same for a long time, months before I realised it was Magics thread


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