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What fertiliser ?

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  • 06-02-2020 3:11pm
    #1
    kk.man
    Registered Users Posts: 3,436 ✭✭✭


    I have a few fields of old pasture that was grazed off by sheep last November and it hasn't really came back. I want it for cattle turn out in March. I have no soil tests done. I was thinking of 0-7-30 or would I be better going with 18-6-12?

    Was hoping to make a start shortly weather permitting.


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    #2
    hopeso
    Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    I'd say 0-7-30 won't give you any grass, as there's no nitrogen in it. Yes, it will boost the soil and give the grass colour, but if you want some growth you'll need nitrogen.


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    #3
    Mooooo
    Registered Users Posts: 8,611 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    If no slurry 0.7.30 and a 35 units of urea would help


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    #4
    Micheal H
    Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Micheal H


    If it's old pasture it probably wants some lime more than anything. You won't get the full value out of your fertiliser if the soil pH isn't right.


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    #5
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,128 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    I'll be awkward. And say if the soil is anything like here I wouldn't consider urea.
    I have improved it by bringing the pH and p and k's up with touches of s. But in the bad old days here urea wouldn't work.
    It'd only work where dung or thick slurry was spread or else you'd have to go to the full bag of urea per acre to get any effect and even that wouldn't be great.

    My own thoughts with an old sward that you know nothing of the soil indicies would be go down the 2 bags of 10.10.20 or bag and half of 18.6.12 route.

    I transformed an old sward very briefly with diluted seawater. But that was in the summer and I never repeated that.
    Any 'organic' amendments are always better at building up long term fertility and soil life than the npk out of the bag though. But npk from the bag is sometimes needed to raise the p and k in the organic amendment.


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    #6
    kk.man
    Registered Users Posts: 3,436 ✭✭✭kk.man


    Say my name wrote: »
    I'll be awkward. And say if the soil is anything like here I wouldn't consider urea.
    I have improved it by bringing the pH and p and k's up with touches of s. But in the bad old days here urea wouldn't work.
    It'd only work where dung or thick slurry was spread or else you'd have to go to the full bag of urea per acre to get any effect and even that wouldn't be great.

    My own thoughts with an old sward that you know nothing of the soil indicies would be go down the 2 bags of 10.10.20 or bag and half of 18.6.12 route.

    I transformed an old sward very briefly with diluted seawater. But that was in the summer and I never repeated that.
    Any 'organic' amendments are always better at building up long term fertility and soil life than the npk out of the bag though. But npk from the bag is sometimes needed to raise the p and k in the organic amendment.

    I forgot about 10.10.20. I have to be careful with some of the fields as they are in GLAS.


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    #7
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,128 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    kk.man wrote: »
    I forgot about 10.10.20. I have to be careful with some of the fields as they are in GLAS.

    There's a mountain of bark mulch at the ferry bridge near new Ross. Go in and offer to take it off their hands. :pac:


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    #8
    Hard Knocks
    Registered Users Posts: 3,944 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    Say my name wrote: »
    There's a mountain of bark mulch at the ferry bridge near new Ross. Go in and offer to take it off their hands. :pac:

    How long would that need to rot?


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    #9
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,128 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Hard Knocks wrote: »
    How long would that need to rot?

    Bark mulch wouldn't take very long.
    A few months?


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    #10
    valtra2
    Registered Users Posts: 726 ✭✭✭valtra2


    Say my name wrote: »
    There's a mountain of bark mulch at the ferry bridge near new Ross. Go in and offer to take it off their hands. :pac:

    Ha ha let me know what he says, not known for his soft side.


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    #11
    uck51js9zml2yt
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,268 ✭✭✭✭uck51js9zml2yt


    Say my name wrote: »
    There's a mountain of bark mulch at the ferry bridge near new Ross. Go in and offer to take it off their hands. :pac:

    Typical that it's on the far side of the country!!


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    #12
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users Posts: 18,202 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Part of the reason they will be slow to recover us that the sheep will have grazed the regrowths this really sets back recovery. IMO I would soil test at present. A single bulk sample will cost less than 30 euro and that is nothing in regard to fertilizer costs.

    18-6-12 can be got for 350/ton I would spread a bag to the acre as soon as the weather permits and again in early March. If you suspect PH is very low a bag of gran line to the acre would not go astray. There is another type of bagged lime that is burnt lime based and that is stronger and works well in low pH ground

    Slava Ukrainii



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    #13
    Sugarbowl
    Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭Sugarbowl


    What fertiliser is best for silage ground that won’t get slurry before first cut? 18-6-12?


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    #14
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users Posts: 18,202 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Sugarbowl wrote: »
    What fertiliser is best for silage ground that won’t get slurry before first cut? 18-6-12?

    If you are looking for s single fertilizer then 18-6-13 is the best option. 5bags/ acre gives 90N/30P/60K.

    Slava Ukrainii



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    #15
    GrasstoMilk
    Registered Users Posts: 3,847 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Bass Reeves wrote: »
    If you are looking for s single fertilizer then 18-6-13 is the best option. 5bags/ acre gives 90N/30P/60K.

    Far too much p and not enough k.
    3 bags of 0 7 30 and either urea or can. Put the N on in 2 splits.


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    #16
    hopeso
    Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Sugarbowl wrote: »
    What fertiliser is best for silage ground that won’t get slurry before first cut? 18-6-12?

    You'd be fine using 24-2.5-10 so long as the ground got slurry afterwards


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    #17
    50HX
    Registered Users Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭50HX


    GrasstoMilk wrote: »
    Far too much p and not enough k.
    3 bags of 0 7 30 and either urea or can. Put the N on in 2 splits.

    If no soil test done in would assume you couldn't have enough p and k

    What's the down side to excess p?


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    #18
    GrasstoMilk
    Registered Users Posts: 3,847 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    50HX wrote: »
    If no soil test done in would assume you couldn't have enough p and k

    What's the doway side to excess p?

    You're right you couldnt assume high p if no soil test but it's not ideal going with that much in one go. Better to drip feed it. Itll all get locked up in the soil if weather isnt right for it


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    #19
    Sugarbowl
    Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭Sugarbowl


    What are ye’re thoughts on mixing fertilizer? Say putting 18:6:12 and something else with it with higher N like 24:2.5.10? Would you get a better balance of the 3?


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    #20
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users Posts: 18,202 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Sugarbowl wrote: »
    What are ye’re thoughts on mixing fertilizer? Say putting 18:6:12 and something else with it with higher N like 24:2.5.10? Would you get a better balance of the 3?

    If you have no slurry you need plenty of P&K. Fertilizers like Silage Sward are designed to be used with slurry. If you have no slurry you need plenty of P &K to get a crop and to stop grass heading out too fast

    Slava Ukrainii



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    #21
    hopeso
    Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Sugarbowl wrote: »
    What are ye’re thoughts on mixing fertilizer? Say putting 18:6:12 and something else with it with higher N like 24:2.5.10? Would you get a better balance of the 3?

    If you were going to use two, I'd say 24-2.5-10 and 0-7-30 would be the best option. Nothing to stop you using the two you mentioned either. Everything you put into the soil will help.....


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    #22
    50HX
    Registered Users Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭50HX


    What would lads recommend for the following silage ground


    2 good cuts and a light 3rd cut at back end of the year

    Reseeded 4 years ago, building p & k back up, lime applied again last year

    No slurry on this ground

    Cut sward with 18/6/12 & Can split on applications?


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    #23
    hopeso
    Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    50HX wrote: »
    What would lads recommend for the following silage ground


    2 good cuts and a light 3rd cut at back end of the year

    Reseeded 4 years ago, building p & k back up, lime applied again last year

    No slurry on this ground

    Cut sward with 18/6/12 & Can split on applications?

    Do you know what P and K levels are like? Three cuts of silage would require a lot of K generally. I'd be inclined to give it at least one shake of 0-7-30 annually.....


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    #24
    50HX
    Registered Users Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭50HX


    hopeso wrote: »
    Do you know what P and K levels are like? Three cuts of silage would require a lot of K generally. I'd be inclined to give it at least one shake of 0-7-30 annually.....

    Soil tests say please is at 33mg/like and k at 2.8mg/l

    What that is units per acre??


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    #25
    farmer2018
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭farmer2018


    What are people spreading the last few days? Is it too cold for CAN?


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    #26
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users Posts: 18,202 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    farmer2018 wrote: »
    What are people spreading the last few days? Is it too cold for CAN?

    Urea should be the fertilizer of choice unless you are need P&K. Unless you have heavy covers 35-40 units of N/s re if no fertlizer spread already. CAN is a more expensive formn of N than urea

    Slava Ukrainii



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    #27
    tanko
    Registered Users Posts: 9,221 ✭✭✭tanko


    Is it too dry for Urea??:pac:


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    #28
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users Posts: 18,202 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    tanko wrote: »
    Is it too dry for Urea??:pac:

    Go out tomorrow morning at dawn and kneel down to say you prayers for the Cronavirus to go away if you knees are dry getting up do not spread Urea

    Slava Ukrainii



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    #29
    tanko
    Registered Users Posts: 9,221 ✭✭✭tanko


    If i go out and kneel down in my fields there's a good chance i'd have to ring someone to come with a winch to rescue me.


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    #30
    GrasstoMilk
    Registered Users Posts: 3,847 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    50HX wrote: »
    Soil tests say please is at 33mg/like and k at 2.8mg/l

    What that is units per acre??

    Have you those figures correct?
    Thats index 4 for p and bottom of index 1 for k? Be unusual to see such a contrast Imo


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    #31
    50HX
    Registered Users Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭50HX


    GrasstoMilk wrote: »
    Have you those figures correct?
    Thats index 4 for p and bottom of index 1 for k? Be unusual to see such a contrast Imo

    It's calling for 32 units per p acre and 68 of k.....didn't see that page

    18/6/12 the best bang for buck here then?


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