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Mains supply energy monitoring

  • 03-04-2020 2:29pm
    #1
    Moderators Posts: 12,379 ✭✭✭✭


    Looking to get an energy monitor on my mains supply. My meter is outside, but i've an external socket right beside it to power a monitor.

    Criteria:
    • Inexpensive
    • DIY install
    • Wireless connectivity
    • API to expose metrics or some integration with Home assistant

    Ultimately I want to visualise it in Home assistant and thus Grafana, so it needs to be connected to my network in order to scrape data from it.

    I've heard of the shelly EM... is that suitable for mains? Is that suitable for Ireland or is it US specific?


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,602 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I have a Mi Home device. This is wireless, battery powered and is DIY install. It trends my homes electrical energy usage (in watts) in realtime as well as providing instantaneous values. I can also set the unit rate but not in € only in £ (no big deal). This information is available on a PC or mobile app.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,379 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    2011 wrote: »
    I have a Mi Home device. This is wireless, battery powered and is DIY install. It trends my homes electrical energy usage (in watts) in realtime as well as providing instantaneous values. I can also set the unit rate but not in € only in £ (no big deal). This information is available on a PC or mobile app.

    Thanks! That requires a hub and the monitor, yes? Seems about £110 for the hub and monitor. Unfortunately it looks like it doesn't integrate with home assistant directly, but perhaps could use their API to extract data.
    Battery powered would be handy too though.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,602 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Thanks! That requires a hub and the monitor, yes? Seems about £110 for the hub and monitor. Unfortunately it looks like it doesn't integrate with home assistant directly, but perhaps could use their API to extract data.
    Battery powered would be handy too though.

    It only requires hub, not a monitor. Your smartphone or PC is your monitor.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,379 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    2011 wrote: »
    It only requires hub, not a monitor. Your smartphone or PC is your monitor.

    By monitor, I meant the sensor itself. My bad.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,379 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Anyone else any experience with these types of monitors?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭TobyZiegler


    Anyone else any experience with these types of monitors?

    Hey BlackKnight

    I've the efergy energy monitor for about a year and works pretty well. The app interface is crap but I was able to download another Android energy monitor app which uses their APIs from a guy called Dan Stone.

    The device I have has the standard clamps which I attached to the mains line which transmits to a receiver connected to the router. As the transmitter is battery powered it's a DIY job as you don't need to power it from the board.

    Not sure does it integrate with Home Assistant tho. If HA can integrate with ZWave devices then Aeotec do an energy monitor which could work.

    Decent list of options here https://www.smarthomeperfected.com/best-energy-monitors/ if it's any help

    There's a RasberryPi based monitor which might be worth a look as it's open source so more likely to be integratable


  • Moderators Posts: 12,379 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Thanks Toby! I'm have to check that out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,711 ✭✭✭kaisersose77


    I would like to do the same as I've got into using home assistant recently. For the Shelly EM how does one know which clamp to get (50A or 120A)? I just have a normal 3 bed house. Also is this something an electrician would be able to install no bother (as in there are clear instructions on how to install)? wouldn't be one for messing around with mainboard!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Just got the Shelly EM about a week ago and installed it into my main board and got it up and running with Home Assistant very easily and have it uploading to InfluxDB and then Grafana to do some fancy charts.

    You are right though it does mean messing about in your main fuse board so if you are not comfortable doing this then this is not for you. I'm not an electrician and have two feeds as I have solar PV so I had to be extra careful. Just switch off the main trip switch and the the isolator for the PV and get a phase tester to double check everything is dead. But to be honest even when I knew I had the main trip down the the board was dead I still treated it like it was still live......The trickiest part is getting power to the Shelly unit as you have to attached a live and neutral to one of the trips on the board. The CT clamps are easy just again even if you know the board is dead treat it like it live.

    I went with the 120A CT clamps as I have a house with a heat pump and I have a 16 kVA connection with a 100Amp fuse so this seamed appropriate. Once up and running and connected to Wi-Fi HA picked it up straightway and got it integrated. I have one clamp on the main ESB incomer before the PV feed as I wanted to capture any power going back to the grid. current going in the opposite direction is picked up as a negative and even the Shelly picks this as returned energy and tracks it. The sampling rate is instantaneous as far as I can see nearly every few seconds as far as I can see.

    I would recommend, I am thinking of getting another one to monitor my PV as the Solis inverter only samples every 3 minutes I think and pick up the utility room plug circuit as I have the washing machine and drier on this.


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭comete


    I have a Shelly em with 120a clamp and don’t have the confidence to wire it into my fuse board myself, and don’t really use my HA for monitoring what my home is doing, mainly operating in the background to manage automations.

    I know it’s against the rules so consider this more of a heads up that I’ll be popping it on adverts.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,126 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    Send me a PM or let me know when it's up, I am interested.



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Hey @ECO_Mental

    I'm going to order a Shelly EM with 50A clamp.

    I have attached my CU to this thread. I'm thinking to connect the positive and neutral (once the board is dead, obviously) to the outputs of the RCBO as below. This RCBO feeds my garage radial socket circuit where nothing is being used out there - in general.


    Roughly - is this what you did? I see this it what many have done in Google images.

    Regards.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,500 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Yeah that looks ok, just make sure you connect the live and the neutral from the output of one circuit , not the live off one trip and the neutral off another. I did this by mistake and all it will do it trip instantaneously. Where the red circle is the main trip is to the left of that I presume and you will be logging this, what other circuit will you be logging? have you got solar


    ***beware I'm not an electrician so take my advice accordingly....😯

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,214 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I can't make out the rating of that RCBO that you intend to connect it to, but you need to be aware that the RCBO/MCB is there to protect the cable and not the device. You could have a very toasty 0.75mm2 cable before a 32A RCBO/MCB trips. Have you got a 3A or 6A RCBO/MCB that you could use instead?



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    @ECO_Mental Yep, the main switch is the bottom left, so I'd be interested in logging the main overall usage.

    I dont have solar.

    The 2nd clamp would be for the utilty room where the washing machine and tumble dryer is used daily. Want to see how much Im using there.



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    @Jonathan That's a fair point. It's a 20A RCBO.

    Looking at the lighting MCBs for the house - 2nd, 3rd and 4th MCBs on middle row from left to right - they are 10A. I have no 3A or 6A for lighting. I recall the rewire of the house at the time (2012), it was 1.6mm cable used.


    For MCB then - I assume taking the live from the top of one of the 10A MCBs and then the neutral from the neutral bus bar at the bottom of the CU.

    Below , the 3rd MCB Sitting room lights.


    The Orange circle is the main feed to monitor. The 2nd last MCB on the bottom row is the Utility which I want to also monitor.





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    I had an issue with taking neutral from the bus bar with the shelly... It tripped main breaker every time.

    My light circuits were double poled (i.e. both live and neutral were at the breaker) so I tapped off one of those to power the shelly em.



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    @Nelbert

    Looking at my board again, the middle row, 3rd RCBO in from the left is my garage and outside garden lights. Load is about 150w .

    Anyway, that's a 10A RCBO, so I guess that is the one to go with.


    @Nelbert @Jonathan @ECO_Mental where did ye buy ye're Shellys from?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Got mine direct from shelly website. Make sure to cycle through the clamp options to get the best price. When I was buying a 50A and 120A clamp with it was cheaper than 2 x 50 or 120 or single clamps.

    If you've any tinkering in mind to do with smart light switches etc get one of the shelly plus modules too, worth the relatively low price to check out functionality wise (one of them works without neutral too although your wiring looks recent).



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    @Nelbert I ordered the 2 x 50A. It was the cheapest of the lot. Also one of the UK 3 pin smart plugs that have PM aswell. About 25 euro. I know the Tapo is half that but said I'd keep it all with one company.

    Deliver early next week.

    Now to set up HA in my docker machine.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Well the good news if you are setting up HA is that once you add the Shelly's to your WiFi.... They'll be auto discovered and will be a simple add. Think their UK plug is very new so be interested to hear about it... I've a few Meross plugs that are obnoxiously wide and could do with being replaced.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    Non-electricians working on a fuse board, let alone encouraging others to do the same, is not ok. Not only is it illegal but it could also leave you with no insurance if anything went wrong.

    I don't want to sound interfering or a busybody, but you are literally playing with fire. Our family had first hand experience of the results of poor electrical work.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,136 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    I’d tend to agree folks, that’s a busy enough board with a mix of RCBOS, MCBs, contactors etc, very easy to leave loose connections which over time can lead to heat build up and in turn a fire…


    as per above poster, not trying to put a damper on these things as I’m a huge home automation advocate, however I am a qualified electrician and I would have to advise messing with electrics without a qualification…



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    I've a couple of bits that need doing elsewhere in the house for our local electrician so will get him to put in the shelly while he is here - even though I'm perfectly capable of putting it in myself.

    Post edited by bunderoon on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    I would hope that anyone remotely uncomfortable or unsure would not touch a socket or light switch let alone add an energy monitor at the fuse board themselves.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,136 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    Perfect if you’ve someone coming then you may aswell get them to do it, as I said, I’m not having a dig, it’s just some friendly advice from an experienced electrician that’s all!! So easy for things to go wrong, and even easier for insurance companies not to pay out when they do!!


    I like the idea of the Shelly must look into doing something similar myself, what are you hoping to achieve from the info? Is it likely that you’ll reduce run times of certain equipment etc?



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    No worries, fully understand.

    Our unit usage has gone up since we got the smart meter (normal 24hr tariff) in a few months ago compared to the same time of the year over the last number of years, so want to compare it versus what the shelly reads.

    I also want to see how much our dryer and washing machine is using every week. I've a feeling the dryer is on longer than that its supposed to be, be it human or mechanical 'issue'. I also like the idea of graphing the house's overall usage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    It's not just a question of capability, it is now illegal for anyone who is not a registered electrician to work on a mains board. I've no axe to grind here, just wising people up to the risks.

    You'd think so, but not always the case. :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,136 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    Interesting, are you thinking that the smart metre may not be accurate? I had smart metre installed last year also but have never really looked at the usage much…. Maybe I should?!


    although our washing machine is running constantly (2 young kids and a teenager) and I also have an electric power shower not ideal



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Getting sidetracked but I thought the legal bit is only regarding a rewire i.e. full install of a fuseboard?

    I've done plenty of sockets and lights but energy monitor was only time I've gone near the actual board and it was following consultation with a friend who's a sparks. Killed it outside at the meter before hand too.

    Bar energy monitors there's not much else a DIYer should even consider at a fuse board, it was the top end of my comfort zone.

    It's a quick job if you know what you're doing but a quick way to get fired across the room if you don't.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,214 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Hi,

    Going back to the original poster, I use shelly EM for exactly this purpose. I use a 120a CT Clamp on the mains cable. I added this to my Home assistant configuration to get cumulative meter readings.

      # ----- Special ---- #
      cum_energy_from_grid:
        unique_id: "cum_energy_from_grid"
        source: sensor.import_total_energy
        name: Cumulative Energy from Grid
        tariffs:
          - peak
          - offpeak
    

    By not including a cycle value it will just increase for every more, I can also set daily, weekly, monthly cycles etc. Grafana works fine with the Shelly EM and I also use the Energy dashboard with a suitable cost inputs sensors. The shelly is good because it will keep a running total of energy used even if internet connectivity goes. They are built first and foremost of the EU market as opposed to the American Market.

    You mentioned you have a socket near where you want to take the measurements, wiring into a socket isn't an issue and I believe the Shelly terminals can take upto 4mm. I'd recommend using a Waco to make the power connections though, to avoid the fully current passing through the terminals. For illustration see below wiring for a shelly 1PM (absolutely don't use one of these, just for illustration of Waco connectors).

    For Consumer unit installation this is my board. A qualified RECI would be able to install one in like 10 minutes and I got them installed as part of other work. I sourced the din mounts from a specialist as Shelly doesn't provide anything like that. You maybe tempted to do this yourself but there are lots of pitfalls even if you don't electrocute yourself right off the bat. I only include the below because I believe it should not be a mystery what you're looking to get done. I've had a outdoor socket installed by a RECI electrician once and when I had other work happening in the house the electrician took one look at it, said it was missing an earth and was using a borrowed neutral (so could be live even when off at the board in some circumstances) and he just disconnected the entire thing. It's good to have a full awareness of what you want done and how it should be done even if you have no intention of doing it yourself.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Those rails are really neat and tidy looking. Can you share where you got them?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    There doesn't seem to be anything in the forum charter against it, so here you go: https://shellyparts.de/. I've no affiliation with them and as far as I know it's pretty much the only place you can source them. Everything is in German but that's not an issue really these days. You can get them in multiple orientations and they're 3D printed. He's got lot's of little bits and pieces on offer.

    It's worth stating again, mounting something in the consumer unit should be left to a RECI but nothing stopping you getting the gear to make a nice job of it and handy for them on the day.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    I don't think that this is correct. When an approved electrician carries out work on the consumer unit he then has to certify that his work follows the National Rules for Electrical Installations (I.S. 10101:2020)

    It is my understanding that only devices that are type approved meet that standard. That could rule out the Shelly units and would certainly rule out 3D printed mountings. If I'm correct you would be voiding your house insurance by doing what you suggest.

    I'm retired and don't have ready access to the various technical documents. Before going ahead I suggest you raise a query in the electrical forum to clarify what I have just said. Electrical faults happen, property gets damaged and people get hurt. The last thing you want to happen is to find yourself uninsured in such a situation.

    Mind yourself...

    Post edited by NewClareman on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    I think you've made your point a few times already.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    My thinking was to get a sparks to fit the mount when I've another piece of work to be done in the near future.

    You've made your point.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Since the main point seems to have changed with the edit, Ill address it. I'm not a RECI Electrician however I do not think you are correct with regards the mounts. I've look at several other din mounts and their manufactures list no statements of compliance beyond compliance of RoHS which is unrelated and voluntary. It would appear at the EU level at least there is no regulations (though obviously their are standards) covering mounts specifically.

    Regarding weather or not the Shelly EM itself is allowed within a consumer unit, this link lists the regulations https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-em that the device meets and their own website provides references to consumer unit installations. They do sell a version of the Shelly EM that has it's own integrated din mount. A quick comparison between the Shelly and the Eaton Power meter installed for my solar inverter indicates that EN 61010-1 : 2011 is the odd one out on the Shelly EM list, though interestingly it is included on the din mounted Shelly 3EM version. I guess that's the equivalent EU Regs for the one you've listed. So there is definitely a conformity gap. Whether that means the Shelly EM's cannot be installed in the consumer unit or not or if such an installation would void insurance, we can only speculate. If this is something that worries some folks, you could purchase the Shelly 3EM instead or house the Shelly's outside the CU, as per what the original poster suggested. The Shelly 3EM wont fit in a standard Irish consumer unit enclosure however.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    @Manion Look, I'm not trying to pick an argument with you, ultimately you'll do what you'll do.

    This whole area is a minefield of standards and regulations, which must be followed if an installation is to be compliant. I strongly recommend that you talk to someone with experience in the area or contact Safe Electric Ireland. https://safeelectric.ie/contact-us/



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Likewise I'm not arguing with you, it does appear that the Shelly EM is not in compliance with at least EN 610101:2011 (though is with other Regs). I don't think anyone has disagreed with the points you've raised. As mentioned in my post I had the devices installed by a RECI but perhaps this is an oversight or perhaps that EN 61010 isn't required for installation of a CT Clamp. If someone wants a shelly that meets that reg, the Shelly 3EM lists it on it's statement of compliance and crucially the original poster isn't proposing to put the shelly in a consumer unit.



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