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purplec · 25-10-2011 6:38pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Cheers,
Now I just need to sell/trade/bin this other arcade monitor as it will just die a death if I have to leave it around for any period of time.

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Good stuff I'm glad you got sorted in the end, I knew you could do it. It's a heavy ****er that one.

Good job

Steve X2 · 25-10-2011 6:50pm

purplec wrote: »

Good stuff I'm glad you got sorted in the end, I knew you could do it. It's a heavy ****er that one.

Good job

It surely is/was:)

But once you plan everything and break it into steps its not that bad.

Next step is to test the Xbox 360 on it to see how it handles the 31hz range.

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Steve X2 · 25-10-2011 8:17pm

Ok, bit of a problem

I put the cab back together and put the speakers for the xbox back inside(it was still working at this stage)

Wheeled it over to the corner and connected up the power.
Nothing, the step up/down thing lights up ok and I can here it hum as it normally does but the cab is not getting any juice.

No leds lit up on the psu as i would normally expect.

I've checked the fuse on the psu and it seems to be fine and I also checked the fuse on the chassis and that also looks ok.

I didn't knock anything around when moving the cab and I only wheeled it across the room.
I've checked ever cable I can and the are all hooked up and didn't get pulled or anything.

Anyone any ideas?

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purplec · 25-10-2011 8:23pm

Try a jamma board, if that doesn't work have you got a multimeter?

Steve X2 · 25-10-2011 8:26pm

purplec wrote: »

Try a jamma board, if that doesn't work have you got a multimeter?

Not getting any power to the cab at all so the MVS or jamma boards dont power up.

I do have a multimeter but not really sure how to use it to be honest.

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Andrew76 · 25-10-2011 8:27pm

Use a multi-meter to check the output voltage of the step down - see if it's reading anything (would be a bit strange to light up and not output anything but you never know). Otherwise check the voltage at the jamma edge maybe?

Pyongyang · 25-10-2011 8:44pm

Steve SI wrote: »

I do have a multimeter but not really sure how to use it to be honest.

The staple truth of today's IT employee! It's grand, I don't know how to use one either. Where's my CompTIA A+ book?

Andrew76 · 25-10-2011 8:50pm

I've had this video bookmarked for a while now. Once you learn the few bits of functionality needed for cabs then it's handy enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU

Steve X2 · 25-10-2011 8:58pm

ok, did a quick google and figured out the multimeter.

Now if i measure the connection on the wall its about 230v or there abouts.
But when i plug the inverter in and it powers up I stick the probes in and get nothing, 0v.

I've checked the fuse on the inverter and its fine.

So did my step up/down inverter just die on me. It seems to simple but if thats all it is i can grab another one.

Wheres the best place in town to get one?

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Steve X2 · 25-10-2011 9:26pm

Not really 100 percent sure its the inverter but might risk getting a new one.

This is the one i got from Ronnie:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/300w-uk-to-usa-voltage-convertor-265288

This is what I might get as its in stock in dublin and the other one is not:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/500w-uk-to-usa-voltage-convertor-227637

Fair few euro for it though. Hope its not wasted money.

Edit:
Links were wrong, fixed them.

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purplec · 25-10-2011 10:01pm

Just had a mad moment and ordered a VF5 board, buyers regret ooh

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 12:11pm

Ok, I got the new voltage converter for the cab and it works fine now

I had to pay a real premium for it by going to maplins and getting the best one they had(as that's all they had in stock) but at least I know the candy is ok and it was just a knackered voltage converter.

The one I got is this one:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/500w-uk-to-usa-voltage-convertor-227637

It was pricey, a lot more expensive than even the website(even allowing for the currency conversion).

But at least it makes absolutely no sound at all thanks to the toroidal construction, no buzzing or humming which is really cool and it has a spare plug socket should I get a US or Jap Xbox 360 or anything else.

It's also 500W compared to the 300W one I got with the cab.

Here's a couple of quick pics of it next to the old one.
Its a lot smaller and fits inside the candy in the corner really nicely.

This thing feels really solid and well built by the way, very industrial feeling to it.

And so it should I guess for the price I paid

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o1s1n · 26-10-2011 12:16pm

I guess when it comes to your candy you might as well buy the best of the best to keep it safe.

Serious looking piece of equipment anyway. Doesn't look to have too big a footprint either. The one I have for mine is absolutely massive. No way of keeping it in the cab at all.

Myrddin · 26-10-2011 12:19pm

Is there much involved in converting these to 220v?

Pyongyang · 26-10-2011 12:20pm

o1s1n wrote: »

I guess when it comes to your candy you might as well buy the best of the best to keep it safe.

Too right. I don't know if I need one of these yokes do I? My cab's already been 240'ed.

Andrew76 · 26-10-2011 12:21pm

Good stuff Steve glad the cab is ok. It was even more expensive than the website? Yikes. I would've went for this if you needed double output and 500W but I guess you probably wanted it asap to test the cab rather than wait for delivery etc. Main thing is the cab is fine.

o1s1n · 26-10-2011 12:23pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

I would've went for this if you needed double output and 500W

That be my one! Feckin thing is huge

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 12:27pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Is there much involved in converting these to 220v?

I had a bit of a look into it a while ago and it seemed like a real pain in the arse to do.

Pyongyang wrote: »

Too right. I don't know if I need one of these yokes do I? My cab's already been 240'ed.

I reckon you're all set Pyongyang if its been converted for you.

Andrew76 wrote: »

Good stuff Steve glad the cab is ok. It was even more expensive than the website? Yikes. I would've went for this if you needed double output and 500W but I guess you probably wanted it asap to test the cab rather than wait for delivery etc. Main thing is the cab is fine.

Yeah, I couldnt wait at all, need to know if something serious was wrong with the cab. The guy in maplins did say I could bring it back for a full refund within 30 days if I find a better one as long as I keep the box/receipt etc.

So I might order one from that airlink transformers place anyway and return this one, maybe.

By the way, I paid 177 euro for this, which is madness but I had to know if the cab was ok.

Andrew76 · 26-10-2011 12:34pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Yeah, I couldnt wait at all, need to know if something serious was wrong with the cab. The guy in maplins did say I could bring it back for a full refund within 30 days if I find a better one as long as I keep the box/receipt etc.

So I might order one from that airlink transformers place anyway and return this one, maybe.

By the way, I paid 177 euro for this, which is madness but I had to know if the cab was ok.

€177 ouch. But I can understand the need to test it asap. If you did decide to return it and go for the airlink ones they're brilliant. I have the little brother of the one above, single output and 300W, still came to approx £104 all in (£50 + £37 del + £17 VAT). The 500W double is £10 more and 1kg heavier so guess it would be a bit more expensive. Cheaper than €177 though so you should make some money back. Excellent build quality, really quiet and proper 100V output.

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 6:19pm

Been testing out the Xbox 360 on the Egret 3 for the last while.
The picture quality is really nice on it and much better than the last screen, not perfect but it just needs a few small adjustments.

For example, it needs a bit more red in the picture but I'll adjust that the next time I'm in there.
For most people its probably fine but I do like the reds to pop a bit more on the screen.

Now, on a slightly different note.
Does anyone have a Taito Type X2 system in their cab?
Any good?

I know its just a modified PC and an ugly looking one at that but some of the games on it really have me interested.

You can emulate the system now of course but it still doesn't run as smooth as the real thing, even on my Skynet PC

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Myrddin · 26-10-2011 7:12pm

Steve SI wrote: »

You can emulate the system now of course but it still doesn't run as smooth as the real thing, even on my Skynet PC

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Something wrong there then, as the system runs under an embedded version of Windows. The system isn't actually emulated at all, its the drm/security dongle & loaders that were cracked. I've 'seen' some X2 games running on very mediocre pc's at full speed.

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 7:17pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Something wrong there then, as the system runs under an embedded version of Windows. The system isn't actually emulated at all, its the drm/security dongle & loaders that were cracked. I've 'seen' some X2 games running on very mediocre pc's at full speed.

Must have another look at it so.

Maybe its the config files or it doesn't like my graphics cards.

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Myrddin · 26-10-2011 7:28pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Must have another look at it so.

Maybe its the config files or it doesn't like my graphics cards.

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Well it aint down to specs thats for sure

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 7:40pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Well it aint down to specs thats for sure

Probably not

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Andrew76 · 26-10-2011 8:53pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Anyone know how to remove cables from AMP UP connectors?

Is there a knack to it or do I just pull the crap out of it.

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Edit:
Never mind, I got it.

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How did you manage to get them out? Paperclip trick or some other method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcJUhtHCzfI

Any advice for removing a male pin from a female JST-YL connection where there is no wire attached to the pin? :eek: I was messing about with them seeing how they hook up and now can't get the fecking thing back out. :rolleyes:

/Edit: I have to correct pin in there I'm just not sure if they're a pain to remove (wired or not) or maybe I have it in up-side-down if that's possible.

Steve X2 · 26-10-2011 9:39pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

How did you manage to get them out? Paperclip trick or some other method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcJUhtHCzfI

Any advice for removing a male pin from a female JST-YL connection where there is no wire attached to the pin? :eek: I was messing about with them seeing how they hook up and now can't get the fecking thing back out. :rolleyes:

/Edit: I have to correct pin in there I'm just not sure if they're a pain to remove (wired or not) or maybe I have it in up-side-down if that's possible.

I just used a pin instead of the paper clip like the guy does in the vid.

Took me a few goes but it worked.

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Pyongyang · 27-10-2011 10:16am

Put in a rather chubby order for some new sticks and buttons for my cabinet earlier this week.

I've gone with Seimitsu buttons (I forget the model name right now but it's the ones favoured by shooting game fanatics). I've also got two LS-56-01's coming and two ball tops. All neon pink and green to match the cabinet.

To cap it off I've an Outrun 2 keyholder set (used on Outrun 2 cabinets) to put the cabinet keys on. Just because.

Stuck for marquee ideas though. I really like those neon Sega signs but have read they are tough to mount as they are not designed for cabinet use. Has anyone tried using these?

Andrew76 · 27-10-2011 10:26am

There's always FrancoB's repro marquee holders over on AO? £35+shipping for an NAC one. Looks like quality work, link.

Pyongyang · 27-10-2011 10:46am

Andrew76 wrote: »

There's always FrancoB's repro marquee holders over on AO? £35+shipping for an NAC one. Looks like quality work, link.

Aye, he and I have had a good chat. I love his work but I don't know what art I'd put in to it. The neon Sega sign looks super groovy though.

I wonder if anyone does repro Darius art? And I don't mean this bell end:

Andrew76 · 27-10-2011 10:59am

Do you mean this Sega neon sign? Not sure how you'd go about attaching that to a cab - you'd need to hack something together to stand the sign into.

Pyongyang · 27-10-2011 11:04am

That's the one. A guy on AO created a mount for it and drilled in to the back of the NAC. I don't think I'm capable of doing that.

Three words: Homer's Spice Rack.

LoGiE · 27-10-2011 11:48am

The control panel artwork on my Mortal Kombat II cab is looking a little faded. Anyone know a good place that could print up a new one for me?

Thanks,

LoGiE

KeRbDoG · 27-10-2011 12:11pm

Maybe this thread is a better place to ask

Anyone have tips on how to paint plastics on an arcade cab?
Want to paint (spray) my cab maybe a matt black but it would need to have a good hard wearing finish. Thoughts?

Andrew76 · 27-10-2011 1:05pm

Don't know much about printing panel artwork or plastics painting - maybe keithgeo and purplec know a bit about each?

o1s1n · 27-10-2011 1:12pm

Krylon paints would be worth looking in to. I know people paint high quality plastic airsoft guns with that and get a really nice finish.

Andrew76 · 27-10-2011 3:13pm

Hey folks,

Can anyone recommend an online shop that sells a good quality Jamma extension cable? Maybe one you've bought yourself and can recommend? Thanks.

Steve X2 · 27-10-2011 3:16pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Hey folks,

Can anyone recommend an online shop that sells a good quality Jamma extension cable? Maybe one you've bought yourself and can recommend? Thanks.

I got one from that Neo Legend crowd in France.

It worked fine for the fingerboard on my hacked xbox 360 pads but doesn't seem to work with actual pcb's. The video is all garbled looking.

So I'd avoid getting one from them.

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Andrew76 · 27-10-2011 3:25pm

Cheers Steve I did look at that one alright, 30cm seemed a bit short aswell. Jammaboards have one here too, just wondering does it look like a decent job (or can you even tell from just looking).

Optimus Prime · 27-10-2011 4:28pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Don't know much about printing panel artwork or plastics painting - maybe keithgeo and purplec know a bit about each?

No experience printing artwork or plastics, just mdf and its a pain, 3 coats or primer, sand in between, 2 coats of black sand in between all rolled on and i still had to sand it down again as the finish wasnt smooth. Getting a spray machine this weekend i think and im going to spray on the final coat of back. Rollers are useless if your a perfectionist.

I bought my artwork from gameongraphix, good finish on them, you can design your own and send it on. make sure its EXACTLY the way you want it first though even slight colour differences between marquee and control panel will show up, i made this mistake and my marquee is a slightly brighter blue than the control panel.

They should have a mortal kombat control panel on there too, they pretty much have everything.

LoGiE · 27-10-2011 7:15pm

Excellent they have exactly what I'm looking for!

unky chop chop · 27-10-2011 8:56pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Do you mean this Sega neon sign? Not sure how you'd go about attaching that to a cab - you'd need to hack something together to stand the sign into.

[

Really want one of them Sega signs for my Astro.
This dude also sells marquee holders which look nice.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97374.0
Also a must for any candy cab owner who smokes is a Sega ashtray.

Steve X2 · 27-10-2011 9:06pm

unky chop chop wrote: »

Really want one of them Sega signs for my Astro.
This dude also sells marquee holders which look nice.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97374.0
Also a must for any candy cab owner who smokes is a Sega ashtray.

Yeah, I got a marquee holder from him a month or 2 ago.
Decent quality. Also working on a custom holder as well but its going slowly.

I don't smoke but I'd really like a Taito ashtray to hold coins.
Apparently the only way to get them is to steal them from the arcades in Japan. Any you see for sale were robbed.

Not that that should stop ya

http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570&_nkw=ARCADE+ASHTRAY

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unky chop chop · 27-10-2011 9:49pm

13 dollar..It has been bought:) cheers
Coins is a good idea..I Prefer Johnny blue fag butts.
The dilemma with getting one of those marquee holders is what graphic to put in it...
It took me four weeks to decide on my move list holder graphic

Pyongyang · 27-10-2011 10:00pm

unky chop chop wrote: »

The dilemma with getting one of those marquee holders is what graphic to put in it...
It took me four weeks to decide on my move list holder graphic

That's my dilemma too, I wanted a DoDonpachi one but they are a bit pricey. I'm probably going to get a mounting plate made for the neon though and go with that.

Myrddin · 28-10-2011 1:14pm

Pic of padhacks Andrew

As I mentioned, I taped everything down rather than hot gluing. If you ever need to make any changes, removing the hot glue would lift traces so in this instance tape is better.

Everything is labelled (except the ground wire which is black on both pads), & there's a common ground on both pads so thats good.

Andrew76 · 28-10-2011 1:44pm

Excellent work dude thanks a mil! Looks very neat indeed. Can't wait to hook those babies up. Got some bits from arcadeshop this morning also so plenty of work for me to be getting on with.

Steve X2 · 28-10-2011 2:44pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Pic of padhacks Andrew

As I mentioned, I taped everything down rather than hot gluing. If you ever need to make any changes, removing the hot glue would lift traces so in this instance tape is better.

Everything is labelled (except the ground wire which is black on both pads), & there's a common ground on both pads so thats good.

Looks well.

I got my pad hacks the other day. I had them made slightly differently as I had a bit of a plan but the plan turns out to be poo so I need to rewire the bloody things now.

Oh well, I live and learn.

Also, is there a way to wire in the 360 home button on the pads?

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Andrew76 · 28-10-2011 2:46pm

Yep EnterNow has wired them aswell. I'll need to stick a push button on the end of the P1 one so I can get back to the menu etc.

Steve X2 · 28-10-2011 2:56pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Yep EnterNow has wired them aswell. I'll need to stick a push button on the end of the P1 one so I can get back to the menu etc.

If I could get the home button wired up I was thinking one of the hidden buttons at the bottom on the control panel assembly for it.

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Myrddin · 28-10-2011 2:58pm

Ideally I'd run the wires into terminal blocks,, but Andrew has those cable adapters so the bare wires probably suit in this case. I've strpped all the wire ends anyway so its all prepared

Yeah I wired in the guide button on both pads, its the same as start or the regular buttons. Kinda handy to have it if the console will be living inside the cab, essential for changing games etc.

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