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Arcade Talk 24/7/365

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Comments

  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Steve SI wrote: »
    If I could get the home button wired up I was thinking one of the hidden buttons at the bottom on the control panel assembly for it.

    .

    Yeah that would work cool. I'm taking a leaf out of your book by using those lock holes as button holders - I currently have a button hanging out the side of the cp that powers on the PC. But my plan is to change that to one of those mini buttons you got and put in the left lock, then do the same with a power button for the 360 in the right lock. That leaves me with a button for the 360 home with nowhere to put it - so I'll prob just feed that out the side of the cp.
    EnterNow wrote: »
    Ideally I'd run the wires into terminal blocks,, but Andrew has those cable adapters so the bare wires probably suit in this case. I've strpped all the wire ends anyway so its all prepared :)

    Yeah I didn't see the point in having them if the pads were going to sit inside the cp and feed into JST-YL type connections. Although are terminal blocks handy to get over here anyway?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    Yeah I didn't see the point in having them if the pads were going to sit inside the cp and feed into JST-YL type connections. Although are terminal blocks handy to get over here anyway?

    Ah just the normal power type ones, very handy to get in Woodies/B&Q :)


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Hopefully it's a good sign that we haven't heard from Pyong all day, hopefully playing with his new cab as we speak. He got the good weather anyway. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    If your getting some, bear in mind I've used Kynar wire so its quite thin...just get small diameter terminal blocks if so.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    Hopefully it's a good sign that we haven't heard from Pyong all day, hopefully playing with his new cab as we speak. He got the good weather anyway. :)

    Lol, I thought of him a few mins ago when I seen the clouds rolling in. Hopefully the poor fecker doesn't get caught in a shower half way through dismantling a Candy Cab at his front door :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Actually looking at my 2 pad hacks I think the home button is already done and connected to the JAMMA fingerboard.

    dsc5519.jpg

    dsc5520a.jpg


    I might just need to rewire it which will be handy enough.

    Edit:
    This is the type of pad used on my hack:

    74380.jpg

    .


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Will do thanks. I might pop down to the local hardware shop and see if they have some, might be handy to have just in case.

    Re: Pyong, my spies tell me he might have received delivery around lunchtime so touch wood (or plastic) he got on ok getting it up stairs.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Steve SI wrote: »
    Actually looking at my 2 pad hacks I think the home button is already done and connected to the JAMMA fingerboard.

    Yep you look sorted there for the home button. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Yeah looks like yours is done too Steve...why do you need to rewire them again?

    Andrew, the ones in Steve's pic are the type I'd go with, but of a smaller bore given I used smaller diameter wire :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    Yep you look sorted there for the home button. :)

    He has it going to the jamma fingerboard but none of the buttons work as the home button when its connected :confused:

    Ah not to worry as the fingerboard is getting removed anyway and I'll just go with the normal connection that's inside the control panel.

    I've got the parts here anyway so don't need to order anything.

    .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    EnterNow wrote: »
    Yeah looks like yours is done too Steve...why do you need to rewire them again?

    Andrew, the ones in Steve's pic are the type I'd go with, but of a smaller bore given I used smaller diameter wire :)

    He has some of the buttons going to a jamma fingerboard and the rest just setup as you normally would.
    I requested it that way as I had a little project in mind for it but it just wouldn't work now.

    It should be easy as he has it setup so i can rewire any button without having to solder, just unscrew that thing in the picture and stick another wire in if needed.

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Cheers for the kind words lads, I have indeed received my cabinet! It's in bits at the moment though. I have the front bezel off, back panels, monitor lifted out (my god those are HEAVY!!!!!!!!) and have all that upstairs. It got through my front door just fine.

    However I'm having problems removing the last 4 screws from the monitor chassis and the 3 screws either side of the cabinet that split it in half. Even with WD40 they won't budge. I'm thinking to just lift the cabinet upstairs as a whole unit and chance it. Wife is out until around 9pm though so I'm stuck. :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Oh and I nearly punctured a vein in my hand trying to lift the monitor out the first time without gloves on!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Excellent stuff dude congrats! The monitor chassis should be fairly stable if you keep it in? As in that's not too heavy is it, so your not gaining much by removing it I would have thought.

    I presume it fits up your stairs no probs? My stairs forks right at the top which tightens the angle if you get me, would be a pain to get a cab up there. What's the plan of action to lift it up - lie it on it's back and slide it up the steps or stand it up and lift step by step?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    That's the problem though. In order to split the cabinet in half you need to remove the chassis as it connects to the other half of the cabinet.

    My stairs fork at the top too but I think it will go up, with some jiffling about. Removing the back panels gives you lots more areas to hold on to it and at the front you could just hold the CP I think, but obviously not put too much strain on it.

    I think the two of us should be able to get it up there no bother, definitely can't do this on my own though, it's far too big an ask. Ah well, I'll have to hold off until she gets home. The side bolts and the last two chassis screws I think are completely rusted in. Been trying to undo them for over an hour or so. No joy no matter what tools I use. Shifting it upstairs as one unit is really the last plan left.

    God help me when I move house!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    I got impatient and tried to get the cabinet up the stairs myself. Got halfway up, reached the fork and just couldn't do it on my own. Its back downstairs in the hallway for now until i can get some help.

    Definite lesson learned there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Hey Pyongyang,
    Did you discharge that monitor before taking it out?

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Steve SI wrote: »
    Hey Pyongyang,
    Did you discharge that monitor before taking it out?

    .

    Nope. It just lifts straight out once you remove the power to it. I was careful not to touch the back though. Reason for me to be worried? :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Nope. It just lifts straight out once you remove the power to it. I was careful not to touch the back though. Reason for me to be worried? :confused:

    You should really discharge it.
    To be safe.

    That was my main concern when I was taking my monitor out a few days ago.

    http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2009/06/10/safely-discharge-an-arcade-monitor/

    .


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Cheers SteveSI, I did see about discharging but thought I'd be grand as to rotate an Astro anyway it's a similar process you just don't lift the whole thing out. I'll be extra careful putting it back in though of course.

    Just wish I could loosen those darn screws, I'd have had the cabinet upstairs hours ago and be hopefully playing Blazing Star by now!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Cheers SteveSI, I did see about discharging but thought I'd be grand as to rotate an Astro anyway it's a similar process you just don't lift the whole thing out. I'll be extra careful putting it back in though of course.

    Just wish I could loosen those darn screws, I'd have had the cabinet upstairs hours ago and be hopefully playing Blazing Star by now!

    Cool, well be careful and maybe don't take the whole discharging the monitor thing as an optional step next time :D;)

    I had some problems getting a few of the bolts off on my Egret 3 when I needed to remove the cpanel.
    But I got some proper tools and they did the job. But I think you already got some tools so not sure.

    Perhaps some pure anger will work.

    If it helps you at all, you said your wife is out til 9pm.
    Well actually she is with me, here, playing Blazing Star :eek: :D :cool:

    Anger?? Now go remove those screws .

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Hah! Nice one! I don't really do anger though, I'll end up wrecking the cab and have nothing then. Patience is key!

    If my wife is at your gaf I'll ask her to rob your copy of Darius Alpha. :D

    Chinese for tea (of course in China they just call it 'food') then a final push to get this cab in to the Cave!

    I'm documenting it on video, the before and after of Project: Man Cave, so there'll be a video posted... Eventually.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Hah! Nice one! I don't really do anger though, I'll end up wrecking the cab and have nothing then. Patience is key!

    If my wife is at your gaf I'll ask her to rob your copy of Darius Alpha. :D

    Chinese for tea (of course in China they just call it 'food') then a final push to get this cab in to the Cave!

    I'm documenting it on video, the before and after of Project: Man Cave, so there'll be a video posted... Eventually.

    Tell her its hidden inside my CD32 copy of Rise of the Robots :D

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Careful or I'll be robbing your shooting games as well as ondafly's when he lands in DUB! :D

    Project: Nick Other People's SHMUPS.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    By the way, while waiting, I did some reading on monitor discharging. When lifting the monitor out you don't need to discharge beforehand as you are not removing the tube from the cage. Of course best practice says you should but for this procedure it's not entirely necessary.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    By the way, while waiting, I did some reading on monitor discharging. When lifting the monitor out you don't need to discharge beforehand as you are not removing the tube from the cage. Of course best practice says you should but for this procedure it's not entirely necessary.

    How do you get the monitor out without disconnecting the HT lead from the tube though? ALWAYS discharge if in doubt, it takes a few seconds & really is best practice. Oh yeah, it could save your life too :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Ok two people can get it up the stairs but it's too big to get round the fork in the stairwell. Off to Tesco to find a hardcore screwdriver to open the cab in half.

    The good one I got earlier removed the chassis bolts so I reckon the joining side screws will come Loose with a good set of screwdrivers. It's the only way to get it upstairs now. :(

    Anyone got any tips for products to buy in the hardware isle that will loosen painted, rusty screws?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Anyone got any tips for products to buy in the hardware isle that will loosen painted, rusty screws?

    A small coating of WD40, & leave it to soak in overnight. There was another product I seen years ago, (could have been called Rustol) that you leave to soak in for a few hours, but it was able to penetrate the metal & break rust bonds...expensive stuff though & I havn't seen it for a few years.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Thanks mate, tried lots of WD40 with no joy. The chassis bolts were rusty but a solid screwdriver took care of them. Am at Tesco now so hoping I can find a good set to break them open.

    Nightmare! The things we go through for video games!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Thanks mate, tried lots of WD40 with no joy. The chassis bolts were rusty but a solid screwdriver took care of them. Am at Tesco now so hoping I can find a good set to break them open.

    Nightmare! The things we go through for video games!

    Tell me about it :D

    Just make sure & clean any excess WD off the bolts before trying to undo them..you know, usual stuff.

    I've no idea what the bolts look like or how big they are, but if they are that tough to undo...look for 1/2 inch socket set & ratchet.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Not bolts but look like wood screws with a Phillips head. Just bought a 6 set in Tesco and a box of different screws. Fingers crossed!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Rusted shut. Though the screwdriver managed to turn one screw a little. Gonna leave WD40 on them overnight and try tomorrow.

    Failing that can I cut them out? I have replacement screws.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Anyone got any tips for products to buy in the hardware isle that will loosen painted, rusty screws?

    You should get atavan over to piss on them, with the stuff that lad probably drinks he'd erode them in a flash. :p

    Hey did you manage to fire up the cab before before trying to get it up the stairs? Everything work ok?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    I didn't put a board in but it seems to power up fine. For the record I got two of the six screws out! The last one on one side is nearly out but I gave up last night. Wrecked!

    Going to B&Q this morning to find a screw extractor or similar. Failing that I'm calling a pro in to cut the feckers out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Today's update (starting to feel like a blog now!). Screws soaked in WD40 overnight. Still tighter than a nun's fanny. :(

    Good news is though that I've a mate coming over who is dead handy with a drill. Gonna buy an extractor bit and try it out. Total last resort now.

    I hope if anything these posts help anyone thinking of getting a cabinet and how to get one in your house. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    So, I have a working arcade.cabinet in my man cave. Truly delighted but my God, I'm never doing this again, ever!!! :D


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Well done dude, all the effort makes the end result all the sweeter. Next time just keep the thing downstairs. :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Thanks Andrew76. Seriously, it was super hard work. Two full days it took to get that thing upstairs but when I flicked the switch and saw the Kaneko logo come up on the screen my face lit up. Such a rewarding experience.

    Being forced to strip the cab to its (almost) bare bones really helped me learn a lot and understand the connections a lot more.

    I'll never do this again though!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 309 ✭✭purplec


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    I'll never do this again though!

    Until you sell it, what goes up must come down. Glad it worked out for you


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Heck no, no plans to sell it. :)

    However I know when I move house I'll need to strip it down again. It'll be far easier though now I've replaced all the bolts, WD40'ed them and cleaned the whole cabinet up. Everything I need to know about is labelled on both sides too so I can reconnect everything in minutes.

    Should be fine, if a little awkward moving house. I doubt I'll ever own a different cab as I simply haven't the room and also I don't really fancy being divorced any time soon. :p


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    I'll never do this again though!

    Haha, famous last words. I remember muttering them whilst hauling a Tekken 3 cab through my house....and then again while I was shuffling the Ridge Racer cab into position :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Ok, I've been looking for a 2 player 6 button cpanel for a while for my Egret 3 and am now thinking that maybe a 2 player 8 button panel might be better for my needs.

    Something like this:

    PAN037b.jpg
    PAN037.jpg

    I'm trying to find one for sale but if not I'm considering converting my 2 player 4 button cpanel into the 2 player 8 button panel.
    It should look ok if it's done right as the panel would just need the 4 holes drilled below the original 4 holes.

    Anyone think of a reason this is madness?
    Anyone know someone with the tools/skills to do this properly?

    Basically I'm thinking it would be handy and future proof to have the buttons.
    With 8 buttons I could cover more of the xbox 360 controller and also do more in Hyperspin or whatever else I end up using on this cab.



    This is my cpanel at the moment (plenty of space below the 4 buttons to do this properly and get the angles right I think):

    cpanela.jpg


    Edit:
    This is how starcab think the 8 button panel would be used.

    PAN027m.jpg

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    I'd get it done professionally if you are serious about it. You could always cut them yourself with a template but for a nice, clean finish you're probably best off getting it cut properly and to size.

    Out of interest is the 8 button setup more for XBOX games etc?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    I don't think it's madness as long as you don't end up turning your lovely cab into something like the following monstrosity! :eek: :p



    Seriously though, you did mention you at least wanted a 12B cp for fighters so maybe modding your existing cp rather than buying a new one is the way to go. I would have a think about exactly what you want the extra buttons to do and see what that means as far as extra wiring etc. I think it might be worthwhile for your 360 pad hacks for the guide button maybe? Regarding HS I would have thought it would be easier to access additional keys via your wireless keyboard.

    I think I recall someone on AO having the tools for the job, maybe it was FrancoB not sure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,291 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    HyperSpin - anyone recommend this? Thinking of having my cab to be a Naomi and MAME/Emu-PC setup. Looking for a menu system.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    KeRbDoG wrote: »
    HyperSpin - anyone recommend this? Thinking of having my cab to be a Naomi and MAME/Emu-PC setup. Looking for a menu system.

    I use it, fully recommend it


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,500 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Yep another vote here for HS.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,392 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Hyperspin all the way, if your pc is fast enough for it! The menus etc can be a hog sometimes. :pac:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,893 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    I don't think it's madness as long as you don't end up turning your lovely cab into something like the following monstrosity! :eek: :p



    Seriously though, you did mention you at least wanted a 12B cp for fighters so maybe modding your existing cp rather than buying a new one is the way to go. I would have a think about exactly what you want the extra buttons to do and see what that means as far as extra wiring etc. I think it might be worthwhile for your 360 pad hacks for the guide button maybe? Regarding HS I would have thought it would be easier to access additional keys via your wireless keyboard.

    I think I recall someone on AO having the tools for the job, maybe it was FrancoB not sure.

    Yeah, I need at least a 12B for the fighters etc but its bloody hard to get one for less than 350 euro. All i need is the panel itself, dont need any sticks or buttons but they include them and charge you stupid money.

    If I modded my current panel to the 12B it would look pants as the button layout just isnt right, but the 16b would work fine as all it is is a 8B panel with another row of buttons.


    Ah, nothing decided yet. Will see how it goes over the next 2 weeks and if I can get a 12B i might be happy with that.
    I'll be over in Tokyo on Monday so might see if I can source the part over there.

    As for using the extra buttons in Hyperspin. They would come in very handy for non arcade games(PSX,Dreamcast,PC based fighters etc) rather than windows buttons which I think you mean.

    .


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