Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

AntrimGlens · 10-11-2012 11:26pm

Hi Just do it,
i suppose there were a couple of reasons for the external stairs, as we have a decent sized deck area at first floor level that we hope to use a lot and these stairs servicing it means that anyone on the decking doesn't have to go through the house to get out. The farm is to the rear of the house so at least when i come from the farm i can park the jeep at the rear of the house and run up the stairs rather than have to go up the main staircase inside the house. We did put a mud room at the back door at ground floor level so at least i can shower when i finish up on the farm in the evening and keep all farm clothes in here and go up the internal stairs. The dogs already made his imprint in the stairs before the concrete was set so he's getting to know his way around.

Villain · 17-11-2012 9:06pm

Started sound proofing upstairs today by stapling rubber underlay to joists.

kboc · 18-11-2012 9:54am

Villain wrote: »

Started sound proofing upstairs today by stapling rubber underlay to joists.

what happens if they wear away over time?

Villain · 18-11-2012 12:52pm

kboc wrote: »

what happens if they wear away over time?

Then you get small movement hence why you don't do this where you are tiling! However I should add I got donated some underlay that was down for twenty years and there is plenty of life in it yet.

This isn't the best solution but it is the cheapest one and the difference compared to plywood directly onto joists is excellent, even better than I thought it would be.

BarneyMc · 23-11-2012 8:29pm

AntrimGlens, is that a balcony you're building at the back? Nice view in the last pic by the way :-)

wclarke20 · 26-11-2012 8:56pm

Felt started on the roof today. Stonework on the front nearly finished. Muck absolutely everywhere. Need to do a big job on drainage next spring to divert water away from the site.

Need to decide on MHRV companies very soon.

ShiverinEskimo · 26-11-2012 11:07pm

Was upstairs in the house today.

I'm standing in our bedroom looking toward the back of the house.

ShiverinEskimo · 29-11-2012 4:14pm

Roof!

sydthebeat · 29-11-2012 4:32pm

Looking good shiveringeskimo....

i hope you have your aco drains purchased to go around your "accessible entrance" front doors

ShiverinEskimo · 29-11-2012 4:53pm

You're going to need to elaborate there Syd. I'm still learning as I go.

sydthebeat · 29-11-2012 5:24pm

you main entrance is supposed to be "accessible" in that a level platform of at least 1.2 m square outside should be level with the internal floor area.

Therefore you will need drainage channels around the 3 walls where you front door is located.

You are also supposed to provide sloped access to this platform.

You will also, most probably, require drainage channels where this sloped access meet the front walls.

This can all be sorted when you are doing your paths and storm drainage, but its always good to be aware at this stage.

ShiverinEskimo · 29-11-2012 5:42pm

Ah yes. That's all down on the drawings alright.

"100mm dia. PVC drain to soakpits designed in accordance with BRE Digest 365" with arrows pointing either side of the front door along with "Contractor to provide slope up to door max gradient 1:20 to a level platform 1200mm wide min."

ShiverinEskimo · 14-12-2012 12:45pm

PC Sum for triple-glazed, insulated frame windows, back door, conservatory french doors and front door: €18,000.

Actual quote from supplier: €12,500.

Get in.

just do it · 14-12-2012 3:41pm

ShiverinEskimo wrote: »

PC Sum for triple-glazed, insulated frame windows, back door, conservatory french doors and front door: €18,000.

Actual quote from supplier: €12,500.

Get in.

U-values? That quote sounds brilliant

ShiverinEskimo · 14-12-2012 3:50pm

just do it wrote: »

U-values? That quote sounds brilliant

90mm 16 chambered section with High Density insulation in the frame.

52mm Treble Glazed

U-value of Glazing = 0.5 w/m²K

U-Value of Windows (Glass & Frame) = 0.8w/m²K

sbkenn · 14-12-2012 4:10pm

My self build,albeit on old "basement"
I had hoped to bit a hillside site to build a log house on concrete basement, but sites 5 years ago were prohibitively expensive.

ShiverinEskimo · 14-12-2012 4:14pm

That's a boat.

sbkenn · 14-12-2012 5:03pm

ShiverinEskimo wrote: »

That's a boat.

Ohh s***, so it is.
Pls excuse my humour. I built the superstructure, and live in/on it.

kboc · 14-12-2012 6:36pm

ShiverinEskimo wrote: »

90mm 16 chambered section with High Density insulation in the frame.

52mm Treble Glazed

U-value of Glazing = 0.5 w/m²K

U-Value of Windows (Glass & Frame) = 0.8w/m²K

will you pm me the company name please

thanks

lownhard · 14-12-2012 7:39pm

ShiverinEskimo wrote: »

90mm 16 chambered section with High Density insulation in the frame.

52mm Treble Glazed

U-value of Glazing = 0.5 w/m²K

U-Value of Windows (Glass & Frame) = 0.8w/m²K

Pm company name too please.

Thanks

Rock12 · 15-12-2012 9:03pm

Could PM me too pls it would a great help! Thanks.

ShiverinEskimo · 15-12-2012 9:06pm

PMs sent.

db80 · 16-12-2012 12:53am

ShiverinEskimo wrote: »

PMs sent.

Pm me too please

muffler · 16-12-2012 6:32pm

Guys, please dont wreck a good thread with all these "PM me" type posts. Have you tried sending a PM to ShiverinEskimo yourselves?

wclarke20 · 17-12-2012 2:42pm

Windows going in this week. Plastering started on the outside. Have just decided on a HRV company so all good.
Will try and put a pic up by the end of the week.

Still very wet and mucky though. Plenty of drainage required when the ground dries up.

New build in sight · 17-12-2012 10:48pm

Build began in July 7th 2012

Roof on garage completed, however we were waiting for the chimnea's to be plastered to finish slates on house, and with the frost last week it wasnt a good idea. It hopefully will be completed this week as the temp is picking up a bit.

Were still undecided about windows meeting yet another company tomorrow, weve had more companies quote than we wanted but its just happened that way as our taste and house has evolved. We initially wanted pvc sliding sash, then after shopping around we liked the looked of alu clad in a single sash and now we are considering trible glazed timber framed. So thats who im meeting tomorrow. Theres rush now with the christmas holidays and its a decision we dont want to rush.

sas · 20-12-2012 4:18pm

Hi,

I wanted to post back some experiences with our PH to date.

Our backup heating and hot water system is oil. We have a large solar array too.

We have no stove yet.
We have no electric immersion.
We have no electric showers.

In July we had 500 litres of oil delivered.

The level has dropped 1/3 in the tank since then based on the level on the side of the tank.
I'm estimating that at approx 180 litres of oil.

We keep the open plan living area >21 degrees using the Oil and UFH. It's also south facing which means that on clear days sunlight makes a big difference.

The solar stopped making any meaningful contribution to DHW in mid Oct. By this I mean that for one reason or another we don't get 40 degree water from it. It does heat it to a point naturally but the oil is needed to carry it over the line.

We run the oil for 1.5 hours per day and the UFH for 2 hours. The oil comes on daily at 3pm. The system isn't stat driven at the moment i.e. no intelligence. I want to spend a heating season understanding how the system should work before I turn it over to something that will make decisions for me.

Our north facing bathroom is always a nice temp. We've never used the towel rad that we installed. THis we put down to it being directly above the serivices room and the 1000 litre tank. Any heat losses from the tank contribute to the overhead bathroom. This was entirely accidental but very fortunate it would appear.

Our house is just over 3000sq ft.

180 litres of oil for everything to date strikes me as pretty good.

We are both typically quite cold souls too and we've been very comfortable in general.

Sligoronan · 22-12-2012 8:48pm

Want to use ultraflo ((((a hemihydrate calcium sulphate based, pump applied, Liquid Floor Screed))). It goes in at depth of about 40mm. What are the thoughts on putting the radon barrier under the raft as I don't want to damage finish floor during construction.

http://www.harringtonconcrete.ie/products-details.php?pid=157

AntrimGlens · 29-12-2012 9:18pm

Windows went in today, although front door isn't the one we ordered and has to be replaced, two large french/sliding doors upstairs into the kitchen and living room can't go in until we are ready to do the outside decking as the membrane has to come in behind the door blocks.
Roofers hoped to have finished but they have one small bit of slating to finish and replace slates with staining from unpainted lead and put on ridge tiles.
Counter battening of sub ceilings begins in the new year, the stairs are in and look class,will post pic if i get one soon. Plumber and spark are lined up and ready to go for first fix. All going well, except the weather.

just do it · 29-12-2012 10:24pm

AntrimGlens wrote: »

Windows went in today, although front door isn't the one we ordered and has to be replaced, two large french/sliding doors upstairs into the kitchen and living room can't go in until we are ready to do the outside decking as the membrane has to come in behind the door blocks.
Roofers hoped to have finished but they have one small bit of slating to finish and replace slates with staining from unpainted lead and put on ridge tiles.
Counter battening of sub ceilings begins in the new year, the stairs are in and look class,will post pic if i get one soon. Plumber and spark are lined up and ready to go for first fix. All going well, except the weather.

Well wear AG. All the best for 2013

Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

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