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Replacing APT timer

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    I had been looking at these Heatmiser control and was wondering how they worked compared to other controls like EPH.

    Would I be right in saying that instead of a central programmer/timer connecting to 2 zone thermostats and a cylinder stat (like EPH) that the timing and temperature are set on the Heatmiser neostats individually?

    For example if I have a neostat downstairs and upstairs then to make a time change (e.g. for summer time) example then both would need to be updated?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Yes. Each would need to be updated.
    However, there is a copy function as well. So make the change on one and select the copy option and select which other zones you want to copy the changes to.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    wandererz wrote: »
    Yes. Each would need to be updated.
    However, there is a copy function as well. So make the change on one and select the copy option and select which other zones you want to copy the changes to.

    Grand, the only gap I can see with these is the hot water. The Heatmiser neoStat hw is a timer only so isn't a thermostat so there's nothing to turn off the hot water flow to the cylinder when a certain temp is reached while the timer is on. Shame really, it would be a complete kit if there was a stat like that.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,512 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    so there's nothing to turn off the hot water flow to the cylinder when a certain temp is reached while the timer is on.

    You could always wire a regular cylinder/pipe stat in series with it. Should be there already anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    Wearb wrote: »
    You could always wire a regular cylinder/pipe stat in series with it. Should be there already anyway.
    Good point, have to check if the neostat hw can be hooked up to a thermostat and motorised valve


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭wandererz


    The cylinder should have a Thermostat built into it anyway? Usually a pencil type adjuster that you can set the temp to.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    wandererz wrote: »
    The cylinder should have a Thermostat built into it anyway? Usually a pencil type adjuster that you can set the temp to.
    I don't think it does so the plumber was going to put one one and a motorised valve to regulate the water flow. The neostat hw should be able to be the middle man between boiler, stat and valve from what I can tell...that's assuming I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Also, note that I had to use a contactor for the neostat-hw. It is only 3A, so didn't realise it and blew the first one.

    Electrician installed together with contactor to do the switching and all works perfect.

    BTW, if you need a good electrician around the Dublin area i can 100% recommend the guy who connected my stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    Cheers, thanks for the offer, I'm in the South East though hence finding it a little tough to find the people to fit these. the plumber I have is a good guy though and is only getting his head around the smart stats now so this will be a baptism of fire of sorts for him and the electrician. I think both will need to be on site at the same time to figure it out, it can't be rocket science.
    Just out of interest, what sort of setup do you have? Is it the combination of neostats for zones, neostat hw for hot water and connected up on a neoHub? Did you order these directly from heatmiser or use a vendor like amazon?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Cheers, thanks for the offer, I'm in the South East though hence finding it a little tough to find the people to fit these. the plumber I have is a good guy though and is only getting his head around the smart stats now so this will be a baptism of fire of sorts for him and the electrician. I think both will need to be on site at the same time to figure it out, it can't be rocket science.
    Just out of interest, what sort of setup do you have? Is it the combination of neostats for zones, neostat hw for hot water and connected up on a neoHub? Did you order these directly from heatmiser or use a vendor like amazon?

    My setup may be slightly different in terms of neostats used as i have electric underfloor heating. So i had to get the neostat-E ("E" being for electric underfloor heating).

    So i have 3 of those (Lounge, Kitchen and Main Bedroom).

    Then i have a Neostat-HW for my immersion. This is just a timer clock replacement.

    All of them connect wirelessly to the neohub.
    The Neohub then connects via a wired Ethernet connection to my broadband modem/router.

    So the Neohub connects to the Heatmiser servers via the internet. And the app on my phone or tablet allows me to control them.

    For each of the 3 heating zones i can set times and temperatures.

    For the Hot Water Cylinder i can set the on and off times and also boost if i need it on outside of those hours.
    Does this make me lazy compared to heading to the hot press and flicking the switches?
    I now have greater control and can switch it off or on from wherever i am whenever i want to.

    I was in London last month and realised that nobody was going to be in the house for the rest of the day so was able to switch the heating & immersion off from my phone.

    Same during st Patrick's day weekend when we were away.

    I've since gotten a neoplug to control a lamp as well.

    I ordered directly from Heatmisershop.co.uk. They do have a stiff delivery charge of 20 euro or so, but everything is fedexed so no having to wait very long at all.

    In Ireland, Polytherm on the Naas Road in Dublin supply them as well. Although pricing was a bit more and they didn't seem to understand the Neohub wireless system, couldn't answer my questions on neostat-e etc.

    So took a chance and went it on my own instead as a learning experience.

    Originally ordered 2 standard Neostats rather than the "e" version by lack of knowledge. So also have these available if anyone is interested.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭johnnyboy08


    Would I be right in you don't have any wiring to worry about going from your neoStat-e setup back to the boiler then?

    Just looking at the wiring diagram for the neoStat-e and they look like standalone units with the matting/wire going straight in. Nice approach that I have to say.

    I think I'd have a bit more to do with mine with motorised valves and neoStats, each of which have to go back to the boiler. The wiring center should take care of all that though and allows for 4 zones + hot water.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Would I be right in you don't have any wiring to worry about going from your neoStat-e setup back to the boiler then?

    Just looking at the wiring diagram for the neoStat-e and they look like standalone units with the matting/wire going straight in. Nice approach that I have to say.

    I think I'd have a bit more to do with mine with motorised valves and neoStats, each of which have to go back to the boiler. The wiring center should take care of all that though and allows for 4 zones + hot water.

    For the underfloor heating in the kitchen, under tile, i have electric matting. This connects straight to the Neostat-e.

    For the other areas, under engineered wood flooring i have Calorique sheets. Which is a plastic/film with a rolled/flattened element going through it. This also connects to neostat-e's for each room.

    It's only the electric immersion which uses the neostat-hw and a contactor.

    The contactor does make a fairly audible noise when switching on and off.

    When i was investigating Nest, my underfloor heating supplier mentioned i would need a contactor for it as well. Thankfully i went with Heatmiser. No contactor required for underfloor heating and a barely audible click when it switches.

    Initially, having an all electric apartment with storage heaters was a pain.
    After insulating outer walls and installing underfloor heating with Heatmiser controls I couldn't be happier. Home is always warm compared to storage heaters exhausting themselves by mid to late afternoon and having to switch on fan heater.
    I don't care what the "experts" say, storage heaters are the work of the devil.

    Life is meant to be lived and enjoyed. That means not living like our caveman ancestors and also not having to have to wear a jumper in my own home.

    This is one instance where technology plays a huge role in improving ones quality of life.
    Totally worth it until the next best thing comes along to supercede it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,280 ✭✭✭toby2111


    Guys,advice needed. I have an APT timer exactly like the one the OP posted and want to switch it. An electrician said it would be about €150 to put in a decent 2 channel device that I'm looking for. He said to check out Nest or Climote with electricity suppliers and Electric Ireland offer free Nest and installation.I know its 2 year contract with no discounted tariff but it'll work out about €100 extra per year on a 2 year contract. So if I'm gonna pay €150 for a 2 channel device, should I just go with a Nest? I know the Nest is only a thermometer but does it have similar functionality to a 7 day programmer?Need it to control water and heating.


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