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Labour Saving and General Guntering

17879818384297

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    @ pedigree 6

    The sharp point on the end of the latch looks like an accident waiting to happen, would it not be a good idea to grind it back or round it over for fear someone would do themselves an injury if they walked or backed into it?

    Just seen your post there now. I had to have that angle on it for the latch to push itself up when going against the plate. If I had a quarter of a circle on it it wouldn't work as well and probably not latch. I could have left more plate above the latch and not have a point on the end and it would still have the heavy end on that side. If I was doing it again I would do it that way and no point.
    But that latch is very rough and was made from bits of iron I had left over.
    But it's high enough and in the middle of the gate and when you open the gate you are at the end of it so it shouldn't cause any problems.
    The biggest fear with any covered gate is the wind catching it that's why I put the latch on it to hold it open and still not have to go around to the other side of the gate to open the latch otherwise the latch would be on the house.
    I could have put the latch on the house and have it going through the sheeting and on to a plate on the inside of the gate and it would work also.
    There's a million different ways you could do it but it is what it is and it works.

    Edit: probably will weld on a little bit above it to take off the point.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,627 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
    http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,469 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Base price wrote: »
    I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
    http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd

    Bosch and lithium ion, think it is perfect the use you describe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,893 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    EJ88 wrote: »
    Why not use 50kg bags?

    Cos I can't buy a new back when it's shagged !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 571 ✭✭✭croot


    Base price wrote: »
    I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
    http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd
    I bought one like that in B&Q in Liffey valley a few years ago and it lasted about a year. Not abused just poor quality. I had a cheap black and decker that lasted longer.


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,835 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    To paint or not to paint that is the question?

    Drilled a few holes in an off cut of H iron..... went on to evil bay, stuck in a bid of wait for it......1 penny+79p postage from China, waited patiently for it to arrive.

    The 50 cent coin is for scale:eek:

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,644 ✭✭✭TheBody


    Lovely job!! Great idea. Just make sure you don't knock it off the mantelpiece onto your big toe!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,173 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    That's one clock l wouldn't like to have fall on my foot!

    I'm a bit of a clockaholic myself. Have bought and made the world of them, but from timber. Quartz mechanisms.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,644 ✭✭✭TheBody


    Muckit wrote: »
    That's one clock l wouldn't like to have fall on my foot!

    I'm a bit of a clockaholic myself. Have bought and made the world of them, but from timber. Quartz mechanisms.

    Any pictures of the ones you made?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    That could end up under a trailer drawbar if it was left in the wrong place.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,357 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    Often thought about making a clock from a car brake disc but never got around to it.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,835 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    That could end up under a trailer drawbar if it was left in the wrong place.

    I better paint it so:rolleyes:

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,173 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    TheBody wrote: »
    Any pictures of the ones you made?

    On a slow connection at mo but will upload a few later when on wifi. Did a few for presents out of rough 5"x2". Surnames with the clock face on one of the letters.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
    (Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
    (Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)
    I've always called that type of clock a grand mother clock with a tall one with pendulum and chimes called a grandfather clock


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    Made one over a couple of nights last autumn.
    Not much but sue I enjoyed making it. :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,241 ✭✭✭✭Kovu


    My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
    (Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)

    I like the fox hunting horn! Toot toot :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 829 ✭✭✭ABlur


    We'll have to start a horology forum! Though this mightnt qualify, bog dale barometer drilled out in the days before you could buy fancy core saws!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    Kovu wrote: »
    I like the fox hunting horn! Toot toot :D

    I was wondering would ye spot it. Relic from when the family were head of the local hunt.
    Some hard yoke to get noise out of. Think there should be a tongue fitted but it's missing. Supposed to make it easier to blow.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    I've always had doing this in the back of my mind. The final straw came when a cow treated for mastitis her milk was let in the bulk tank and the tank of milk had to be let in slurry pit. There's usually two of us milking and tape is put on the treated cows tail till they're ready for the bulk tank but when they are finished milking the hand can automatically go to the switch and let it on.
    I don't know if other people have these but I have a fullwood parlour (well a mixture) so I got a plate on a hinge made up to cover the switch. When a fresh calver or treated cow is milked however puts on the cluster see's the tape on cow and pulls down the cover. So no matter who takes off the cluster they cannot let on the milk.

    Tested this evening and works very well.:D

    2016_04_05_13.jpg

    2016_04_05_15.jpg

    2016_04_05_15.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,173 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Can you not just flick up the cover ?☺


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    Muckit wrote: »
    Can you not just flick up the cover ?☺

    You could but if cover is down not for tank. So........
    Works the same way if last row goes out and you leave milk in jars and you're wondering is it the 4th or the 5th jar I should be stopping?


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,835 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Good idea P6, won't be long paying for itself, not milking anymore, but is it possible to put in a dumpline if you have jars?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,671 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    pedigree 6 wrote: »
    I've always had doing this in the back of my mind. The final straw came when a cow treated for mastitis her milk was let in the bulk tank and the tank of milk had to be let in slurry pit. There's usually two of us milking and tape is put on the treated cows tail till they're ready for the bulk tank but when they are finished milking the hand can automatically go to the switch and let it on.
    I don't know if other people have these but I have a fullwood parlour (well a mixture) so I got a plate on a hinge made up to cover the switch. When a fresh calver or treated cow is milked however puts on the cluster see's the tape on cow and pulls down the cover. So no matter who takes off the cluster they cannot let on the milk.

    Tested this evening and works very well.:D

    2016_04_05_13.jpg

    2016_04_05_15.jpg

    2016_04_05_15.jpg
    Tape and red spray here . Did you test the tank before you dumped it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Good idea P6, won't be long paying for itself, not milking anymore, but is it possible to put in a dumpline if you have jars?

    I don't know if you could put a dumpline in with jars.
    I like the jars as you can see straightaway what a cow is giving and they're high enough in the pit so not in the way.
    I got the flaps made up with a stainless steel specialist on Monday and they cost 20 euro each.
    You get into a routine now when you get to a cow with mastitis. You make sure that switch is not going to let milk through and then put cluster on cow and then you have to look at switch again when you put the flap down.
    So then when taking off if you happen to be outside and rush back in and there's a whole row of cows waiting for clusters to be taken off. No matter how much of a rush you're in or thinking of something else. If the flap is down over the switch you know leave milk in jar get bucket empty jar rinse jar and cluster and off you go again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Tape and red spray here . Did you test the tank before you dumped it?

    I had blue spray here and the spray got washed off the cow that day.
    So using tape now and no mistaken that just put it on tail between the two bars where you can see it.
    I haven't got the test kit so a neighbouring farmer tested it and I got it tested by the owner of the milk tankers and that test comes back in 3 minutes.
    Both came back positive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    pedigree 6 wrote: »
    I had blue spray here and the spray got washed off the cow that day.
    So using tape now and no mistaken that just put it on tail between the two bars where you can see it.
    I haven't got the test kit so a neighbouring farmer tested it and I got it tested by the owner of the milk tankers and that test comes back in 3 minutes.
    Both came back positive.

    Coming from an idiot who put antibiotic milk into a tank before, that is a very good idea.
    No one is going to take the clusters off and see the panel down and still lift it and send the milk to the tank. The obstruction of the panel in the way will make you stop and look at the cow you've just taken them off and see is she clear or for the churn. It'll become automatic once you see the panel in your way, then there is something different to be done with that milk.
    Worst case someone might dump 20L of good milk, but I'd imagine it's very unlikely anyone will throw bad milk into the tank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,959 ✭✭✭C0N0R


    We made up a thing years ago, hard to explain, thread a bar through two holes I'll take a picture of it someday and throw it up. I'd hang the bucket below the jar straight away normally helps too


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,062 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    Thats pure brilliant... should have been standard from day one... always hated jars for that reason

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    Markcheese wrote: »
    Thats pure brilliant... should have been standard from day one... always hated jars for that reason

    Surprising how quickly you get used to using them.
    My father loves them now and it takes any thinking out of the job.
    He won't be banished from the parlour yet plenty more years there still.:D
    Whatever excuse I have for making mistakes.:P

    Simple thing to make stainless steel piano hinge and ss plate and bolted to cover with SS bolts with a flat head.
    It folds back enough and wont fall down unless put down by hand.


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