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Grundfos MQ3 35 **Reduce Pressure**

  • 14-11-2014 05:59PM
    #1
    Peppa Cig
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,054 ✭✭✭


    Hi, I have a Grundfos MQ3 35 booster pump feeding all showers and taps except kitchen drinking tap and toilets.

    As kids are getting older they are showering more often and longer resulting in more demand for hot water. Combined with pending water charges I was thinking about reducing water pressure. I think these pumps output 3 bar?

    Can I reduce this to say 2 or 2.5 bar? If so how?

    I assume reducing pressure would use less hot water allowing more showers at same time? As well as using water usage.


Comments

  • #2
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Peppa Cig wrote: »
    Hi, I have a Grundfos MQ3 35 booster pump feeding all showers and taps except kitchen drinking tap and toilets.

    As kids are getting older they are showering more often and longer resulting in more demand for hot water. Combined with pending water charges I was thinking about reducing water pressure. I think these pumps output 3 bar?

    Can I reduce this to say 2 or 2.5 bar? If so how?

    I assume reducing pressure would use less hot water allowing more showers at same time? As well as using water usage.

    There should be a pressure reducing valve after the pump and a pressure gauge. Should be as simple as turning it down


  • #3
    Peppa Cig
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,054 ✭✭✭Peppa Cig


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    There should be a pressure reducing valve after the pump and a pressure gauge. Should be as simple as turning it down

    Hi, thanks for reply but there is no pressure gauge or pressure reducing valve after pump that I can see.


  • #4
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Peppa Cig wrote: »
    Hi, thanks for reply but there is no pressure gauge or pressure reducing valve after pump that I can see.

    Then you'd be better off getting a plumber in. Pressurised hot water can be very dangerous and by the sounds of it yours isn't installed great. Take a few pics


  • #5
    Peppa Cig
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,054 ✭✭✭Peppa Cig


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Then you'd be better off getting a plumber in. Pressurised hot water can be very dangerous and by the sounds of it yours isn't installed great. Take a few pics

    Sorry for delay. It's pumping cold water not hot.
    won't be around for a week to take photos although nothing to see really other than pump connected to inlet /outlet. No pressure gauge or PRV on line. Are they usually installed with both?

    Thanks


  • #6
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Peppa Cig wrote: »
    Sorry for delay. It's pumping cold water not hot.
    won't be around for a week to take photos although nothing to see really other than pump connected to inlet /outlet. No pressure gauge or PRV on line. Are they usually installed with both?

    Thanks

    Have you a stainless steel cylinder or copper?


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  • #7
    djr15
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 164 ✭✭djr15


    I would guess that your pump is pumping both hot and cold, this is done by taking the cold feed from your attic tank and pumping it through the cylinder, which acts as a cold feed to cylinder, (ie. Hot water). A tee is also fitted between the pump and the cylinder, this will be your new cold feed to domestic, (ie. Cold water). This is assuming you have what is called a pressurized cylinder, a copper cylinder under such pressure would almost certainly leak.

    Fitting a pressure reducing valve after the pump would not be the best solution as it would cause issues with the pump pressure switch etc....
    My advice would be to get a plumber to see if pressure reducing valves can be fitted just before the sowers individually or alternatively get shower heads which reduce the flow.


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