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Damp Wall (No DPM / Access)

  • 05-03-2014 10:30AM
    #1
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭


    Hi.

    I have a bit of an issue, the block shed I used as an office recently flooded with several inches of sewage after a mains sever overflowed through my property, I just noticed that one wall is actual the boundary wall, has no damp course and I've no access to other side to plaster it.

    Does anyone have any advise as to the best method to resolve this, I was thinking either to tank it or build a new block face in front using 4" blocks.


Comments

  • #2
    Safehands
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,348 ✭✭✭Safehands


    peter_dublin wrote: »
    Hi.

    I have a bit of an issue, the block shed I used as an office recently flooded with several inches of sewage after a mains sever overflowed through my property, I just noticed that one wall is actual the boundary wall, has no damp course and I've no access to other side to plaster it.

    Does anyone have any advise as to the best method to resolve this, I was thinking either to tank it or build a new block face in front using 4" blocks.

    Has this wall been painted on the inside?


  • #3
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    Safehands wrote: »
    Has this wall been painted on the inside?

    Yes, it was painted with standard matt white which has yellow and turned to power in other spots.


  • #4
    Safehands
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,348 ✭✭✭Safehands


    peter_dublin wrote: »
    Yes, it was painted with standard matt white which has yellow and turned to power in other spots.

    Yea that makes it more difficult to apply a waterproof slurry on to. There are a few of those on the market which could be applied in 2 coats which should solve the problem.


  • #5
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    Safehands wrote: »
    Yea that makes it more difficult to apply a waterproof slurry on to. There are a few of those on the market which could be applied in 2 coats which should solve the problem.

    Thanks, Yes I was aware the paint made bonding anything a nightmare but it seems the only option at this stage, plaster boarding may lead to mould from what I've read so that's out as an option.


  • #6
    WilyCoyote
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    You can hire a Needle Gun to get the paint off. Apply a bead of Sika-Flex to the wall/floor join. Then scud coat it with 1:1 (S:C). Render it with 1/2" of 3:1 (washed sand:cement plus waterproofer) and close it in. Stick battens and sheet it (this will gave a warmer wall that won't sweat).
    All your electrics can be tidied up and hidden behind.


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  • #7
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    WilyCoyote wrote: »
    You can hire a Needle Gun to get the paint off. Apply a bead of Sika-Flex to the wall/floor join. Then scud coat it with 1:1 (S:C). Render it with 1/2" of 3:1 (washed sand:cement plus waterproofer) and close it in. Stick battens and sheet it (this will gave a warmer wall that won't sweat).
    All your electrics can be tidied up and hidden behind.

    Would it be okay to wallboard directly onto the wall rather than battening it out.

    Thanks


  • #8
    WilyCoyote
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    When the wall is dry I can see no reason not to. But don't break the membrane that the waterproofing gives. So use a decent adhesive and follow manufacturer's instructions.
    If you go this route and you need to hide the electrics - take the necessary steps first.


  • #9
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    WilyCoyote wrote: »
    When the wall is dry I can see no reason not to. But don't break the membrane that the waterproofing gives. So use a decent adhesive and follow manufacturer's instructions.
    If you go this route and you need to hide the electrics - take the necessary steps first.

    Thanks, very helpful.


  • #10
    peter_dublin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    WilyCoyote wrote: »
    When the wall is dry I can see no reason not to. But don't break the membrane that the waterproofing gives. So use a decent adhesive and follow manufacturer's instructions.
    If you go this route and you need to hide the electrics - take the necessary steps first.

    Hi.

    Another query, is Everbuild 505 grip coat suitable for a base to have the 3/1 or tanking membrane bonded onto so I can prep it for the plasterer

    Thanks


  • #11
    WilyCoyote
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,059 ✭✭✭WilyCoyote


    AFAIK the 505 is an adhesive/stabilizer for lightweight plasters. These would not be recommended for keeping dampness at bay. But you could check out Limelite and ask them.
    However, read the Technical Data or give the trouble-shooting number a buzz. If you remove the paint there is no need for this.


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