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Today I did some detailing...
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Right, so I made up a list of everything I currently have (including things i've ordered but still waiting to get delivered). I'm not sure if I have grouped things into the right places or not though. Still learning. And I have far too many multiple choices (too many waxes, polishes, etc. would Ideally prefer to have one single product for each category).
Miscellaneous
Nilfisk C120 Power Washer
AutoBrite Direct Snow Foam Lance
Microfibre wash mitt (x4)
Chemical Guy's UFO Foam Applicator Pad (x2)
Generic Foam Wax Applicators (x3)
3M 3434 Masking Tape (x3)
Interior
Tesco Foam Upholstery Cleaner
Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner
Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Pledge Dust and Protect Cleaning Spray
Chemical Guy's Stripper Scent
Paint Work
AutoGlym Bumper and Trim Gel
Orchard Auto Care Tar Cleanse
Claying
AutoBrite Direct Detailing Clay Bar
Meguiar's Clay Bar
Wheel Care
Orchard Auto Care Iron Cleanse
Orchard Auto Care Wheel Cleanse
Wonder Wheels Alloy Wheel Cleaner
Armorall Wheel Shield (x2)
Orchard Auto Care Glitz Tyre Dressing
Shampoos
Valet Pro PH Neutral Snow Foam
Tesco Wash and Wax
Chemical Guy's Glossworkz Shampoo
Chemical Guy's Mr. Pink
Drying
Meguiar's Water Magnet Drying Towel
Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy Towel
Microfibre Cloths (used) (x6)
Microfibre Cloths (new) (x12)
Machine Polishing
DAS Pro 6 Machine Polisher
DAS6 CG's 5.5" Hex-Logic Pad - Green
DAS6 CG's 5.5" Hex-Logic Pad - White
DAS6 CG's 5.5" Hex-Logic Pad - Orange
DAS6 CG's 5.5" Hex-Logic Pad - Black
DAS6 CG's 5.5" Hex-Logic Pad - Red
Polishes
Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish
Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3N
Glazes
Chemical Guys Glossworkz Glaze
Waxes
Turtle Wax All in One Synthetic Liquid Wax Kit
Car Plan Complete Deep Gloss Car Wax
Chemical Guy's Pete's 53 Black Pearl Paste Wax
Glass
Turtle Wax Clear Vue Glass Clean
Most of my stuff seems to be Chemical Guy's branded I think. So I think I might try and phase every other brand out and stick with them. As it is, I seem to be ending up with just all kinds of random stuff for the sake of it.
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I wouldn't be just sticking to one brand. I'd be trying to get the best wax within budget, the best clay etc. Sticking to one brand means you get their good stuff but also get their ****e
Bit from column A, bit from column B.
As Curran would more than likely say - Sticking to one brand for glaze/sealant/wax/etc is more often than not, a good idea. It's down to the manufacturer specifically making the product to work best with their own other products, so you usually get better bonding between LSP from the same manufacturer, hence better longevity. Jetseal + any CG wax, for example..
As with every rule, there's always exceptions. OAC Perfection being the obvious one, it'll stick to anything
You're right though, while certain manufacturers make fantastic products, they also make some unholy amount of shíte. Autoglym EGP, HD wax and glass polish are all fantastic. I wouldn't use their tar remover on a wheelbarrow.
If I was recommending any brand to show loyalty to, it would have to be OAC. No frills or fancy packaging, but by god do the products work. Sealant/wax just find the best combo that works for you and your car. Everyone has their favorites.0 -
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I wouldn't be just sticking to one brand. I'd be trying to get the best wax within budget, the best clay etc. Sticking to one brand means you get their good stuff but also get their ****e
Some of the earliest advice i was given on here was that it can be good to stick to a single brand as their products work better together?
(im referring to body work stuff here though; shampoo, polish, glaze, wax etc.).
No..?
My problem is that, while I don't mind spending a couple of Euro here and there, I don't necessarily know what makes one wax or polish, etc. better than the others.
Now that I'm machine polishing, for example, I'm looking at my Pete's 53 wax, in it's circular tub, and wondering, how the feck do i get that onto the pad of the DAS (even though it came highly recommended, and to be fair, im still getting great water beading since using it last).
Or am I better off still waxing by hand? (see, these are some of the things im not sure of and still learning about).
Also, can I ask, now that I've introduced a glaze into the mix, is the correct order: Polish, then Glaze (by machine?) and wax?
I intended on applying everything by machine now (hence picking up so many different hex-logic pads). But Im not sure if that's just being a little short-sighted and wanting to use the DAS for the sake of using it just cos I have it now. 0 -
There seems to be a bit of confusion here!
Its best to stick to the same manufacturer when choosing what you are applying to your paintwork. So for example if you choose to go with a glaze, sealant and wax, then its best to find a combo that works for you from all the one manufacturer, as they will have been designed to work best together.
If you were to choose a glaze from manufacturer X and sealant & wax from manufacturer Y, then the sealant from Y may not bond too well to glaze X, and this will limit the performance of products from Y.
This is often why some people are disappointed by a certain product that they might have heard others say were brilliant....failure to prepare the paint well or mixing it with other products and then its not being used to its full potential. To get the most out of any one product, its best to apply it on its own to bare paint, applying 2 or 3 layers. For example a wax that says it will give 3 or 4 months protection, will only do so applied to bare paint. If a glaze was applied initially, it hinders the bonding of the wax, and as a result it may only last 2 months. If the glaze X and wax Y were used, you may only see 1 month out of the wax.
When choosing products to do other jobs around the car, its a matter of finding what products you like working with or that do the job you need. There is no 1 manufacturer out there that makes a range of all excellent products. There are some who's range, the majority would be good/great. Others that might have just one or two worth considering. Chemical Guys would be good across most of the range. Autoglym, IMO, the only products Id consider would be Fast Glass, HD Wax, SRP & EGP....with HD Wax being excellent and if in the CG's range, would be far more expensive. SRP & EGP is a fantastic combo for doing a hand polish and seal.
I'd easily have products from 7/8 manufacturers if doing a machine polish from prep through to protection.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »Now that I'm machine polishing, for example, I'm looking at my Pete's 53 wax, in it's circular tub, and wondering, how the feck do i get that onto the pad of the DAS (even though it came highly recommended, and to be fair, im still getting great water beading since using it last).
Or am I better off still waxing by hand? (see, these are some of the things im not sure of and still learning about).
Also, can I ask, now that I've introduced a glaze into the mix, is the correct order: Polish, then Glaze (by machine?) and wax?
I intended on applying everything by machine now (hence picking up so many different hex-logic pads). But Im not sure if that's just being a little short-sighted and wanting to use the DAS for the sake of using it just cos I have it now.
The correct workflow would be...
Machine Polish
Wash down the car to remove oils from the polish
Glaze - if you choose it
LSP (Last Stage Protection - Sealant or Wax, sealant 1st if doing both)
Yes, glaze, sealant and wax, can all be applied with a soft pad on a DA, but to be honest its nearly more hassle than its worth. Glazes and Sealants usually wont be an issue, as they are normally in a bottle and can be squeezed onto the pad. Waxes as you know are usually in a tub, so if you wanted to apply those with a DA, then Id advise you prime the pad for the DA by giving it a rub or two in the tub, and then put it on the backing plate. Use a regular applicator and prime it a bit more than you usually would, and for want of a better word, "slap" it onto the panel, then use the DA to work it in, spread it out evenly.
Or you could go down the bare hands application route
Skiop onto about 5 mins
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@Curran- How do you rate the Collinite 476s as against AG EGP? Wax vs Sealant? I'm liking the reviews of collie's durability which I would be leaning more towards.
It would be used purely with AG SRP(old formula) 0 -
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@Curran- How do you rate the Collinite 476s as against AG EGP? Wax vs Sealant? I'm liking the reviews of collie's durability which I would be leaning more towards.
It would be used purely with AG SRP(old formula)
Collinite wins that match the same way mike tyson would win a boxing match against justin bieber
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I think I'll go with SRP and Colly so. It will be a bit easier on the arms anyway
Not exactly sure how that will work out for you....if it were me, Id definitely stick in a coat of EGP, especially if you have it there!!
Alternatively, if you arent too majorly concerned about hiding swirls, and will be satisfied with returning the depth and gloss...then use SRP to give you the shine back, but then wash it out with APC, dry the car and then use Collinite on its own. It will hide a certain amount of swirls anyways. This means your coats of Collinite will be very durable, and should see maybe 4 months!0 -
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