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Today I did some detailing...
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The lance is your problem there!! Those ones simply arent up to the job of producing thick foam. The proper lances have a gauze in them which the water and snow foam ssolution is forced through that produces the nice snow!
Process is as per the How to Guide I sent you.
Wash
Rinse
De-Tar
Rinse
De-Ironise
Rinse
Clay
Rinse / Wash if the car has dried
Polish
Protect
Jaysus, I forgot all about that guide! And I even have it printed out!
Must take a fresh look at it now that I have products that I can associate with different parts of it. Might make it easier to understand (I'm sure i'll still have 400 questions though!)0 -
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Yeah, keep the questions coming!!
Stick them up here so everyone learns and you might also get a quicker response from the other experienced lads!
See this is what i love about this thread, chances are if someone asks a question, chances are others are thinking the same thing, like I'm learning enough off KKV just by him asking stuff!0 -
Love this section, it's a great resource.
Can't stop spending money though :P
Spent like 250 quid on car stuff on my 2 days off
Rear gelcoat covered diffuser
Tigerseal to stick said diffuser
Fancy 15 quid detailing gloves
Some of that clay you can use with water
Dodo juice clay lube (snigger)
Collinite 476 wax
Massive drying towel
Fancy wheel/exhaust brush (always wanted one)
Good thing im working this week or i'd have myself bankrupt
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Supergurrier wrote: »Love this section, it's a great resource.
Can't stop spending money though :P
Spent like 250 quid on car stuff on my 2 days off
Rear gelcoat covered diffuser
Tigerseal to stick said diffuser
Fancy 15 quid detailing gloves
Some of that clay you can use with water
Dodo juice clay lube (snigger)
Collinite 476 wax
Massive drying towel
Fancy wheel/exhaust brush (always wanted one)
Good thing im working this week or i'd have myself bankrupt
What are fancy detailing gloves like? and do I need them?
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What are fancy detailing gloves like? and do I need them?
http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1207259
Not really detailing gloves but feck it my hands get cold !
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The owner of this car was worried about failing the NCT due to faded headlight lenses, also he complained of low light output.
How- DAS6
- Spot polishing pad and backing plate
- Maxolen PM1
- Meguaires #205
- Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic
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toastedpickles wrote: »I'm learning enough off KKV just by him asking stuff!
... I'll try to take that as a compliment...
Right.. So using my knowledge (or what little of it there is), and using the products I purchased (which I'd strongly recommend as a 'starter pack' of sorts for anyone else in my situation (I'd describe myself as a mentally deficient enthusiast...).
Considering the products I've got, would I be right in saying that the below is the 'correct' order to use them (and after, in brackets, is the method used to apply?)
(This is what I was aiming to do for tomorrow). Now, I am still learning, and so im sure a lot of this is ass backwards, but this is how I've worked it out in my head so far...)
1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher)
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
4. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
5. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
6. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
7. Quick rinse (power washer)
8. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary)
9. Quick rinse (power washer)
10. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a seperator pad (or back of current pad) to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
11. Quick rinse (power washer)
12. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
13. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery)
15. Quick rinse (power washer)
16. Dry car using array of clean microfibre cloths to wipe dry.
17. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.
(there's less steps involved in giving up heroine!)0 -
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JAMES VTI S wrote: »The owner of this car was worried about failing the NCT due to faded headlight lenses, also he complained of low light output.
How- DAS6
- Spot polishing pad and backing plate
- Maxolen PM1
- Meguaires #205
- Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic
Does that work (and even if it does work, does it make any practical difference) to the rear lights? Presumably same can be applied to fog lights?
Have any of ye guys ever heard of Autosol? Apparently it's the bees knees for your exhaust?
Would I be right in saying the exhause on my car should be silver/chrome looking (and no exhaust comes black as standard?!).
I'm hoping that if i used it on my Rav4 i'd get a nice shiny exhaust, but also wondering if it'd work on my nudge bar (which is never really as clean as i'd like it to be. It always has 'water marks' or something on it. Bit annoying. At the same time, don't want to clean it with Autosol if it'll make it worse.
Used an alloy cleaner on it before and it started going a weird orangey colour. Took a lot of elbow grease to get that off! 0 -
toastedpickles wrote: »In fairness though I'm no professional at it either there's things you've asked that even i wasn't sure of myself like, I haven't broken into all this fancy detailling stuff, i just use good ol autoglym stuff, cos i can't afford anything else :pac:
Ah I wasn't really insulted by your comment, I was just joking
To be honest with you, as is probably obvious by now, I'm in way over my head. I spent a few Euro on products that came recommended by Curran. And I'm delighted to have them, and I love having a clean car.
But at the same time, I haven't a feckin' clue what I'm doing.
When I'm cleani.. ahem... Detailing ( ) my car, this video pretty accurately sums me up, for both how i look when cleaning, and what's going on in my head:
I reckon if I can get another bit of help off the users here who know what they're doing, over the next 2-3 days I'll have done a full in-depth wash of the car, come across all my issues along the way, and be able to address them.
At which point I'd hope that I can continue on my own, and only pester people here when i need advice regarding a new product or technique (and, hopefully over time, as my experience grows, although I'll never be anywhere near as intelligent as some people here, I'd hopefully be able to help out other beginners down the line, as I have been helped out by members of this forum so far).
If you want to try out any of the products I've bought, by the way, just let me know. I've a free day on Thursday, so I'd be happy to meet up with you and you can sample some of the stuff I bought.
I seen Curran talking about a 'workshop' of sorts in the new year, in another thread. That's something I'd be interested in, so hopefully that goes ahead.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »... I'll try to take that as a compliment...
Right.. So using my knowledge (or what little of it there is), and using the products I purchased (which I'd strongly recommend as a 'starter pack' of sorts for anyone else in my situation (I'd describe myself as a mentally deficient enthusiast...).
Considering the products I've got, would I be right in saying that the below is the 'correct' order to use them (and after, in brackets, is the method used to apply?)
(This is what I was aiming to do for tomorrow). Now, I am still learning, and so im sure a lot of this is ass backwards, but this is how I've worked it out in my head so far...)
1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher)
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
4. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
5. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
6. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
7. Quick rinse (power washer)
8. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary)
9. Quick rinse (power washer)
10. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a seperator pad (or back of current pad) to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
11. Quick rinse (power washer)
12. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
13. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery)
15. Quick rinse (power washer)
16. Dry car using array of clean microfibre cloths to wipe dry.
17. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.
(there's less steps involved in giving up heroine!)
No need for any more rinses after polishing. The car should be dried before polishing and the polish should be removed with a mf towel not an applicator. Personally I do the wheels before washing the car (after snow foam) I wouldn't do it after waxing etc as the car will get wet again and the wheel cleaner could strip the wax off. I haven't used wheel cleanse but any wheel cleaner that I have used needs to be agitated with a brush on the wheel to get it clean. Don't forget to Iron cleanse your wheels too once you've washed them.Deleted User wrote: »Does that work (and even if it does work, does it make any practical difference) to the rear lights? Presumably same can be applied to fog lights?
Have any of ye guys ever heard of Autosol? Apparently it's the bees knees for your exhaust?
Would I be right in saying the exhause on my car should be silver/chrome looking (and no exhaust comes black as standard?!).
I'm hoping that if i used it on my Rav4 i'd get a nice shiny exhaust, but also wondering if it'd work on my nudge bar (which is never really as clean as i'd like it to be. It always has 'water marks' or something on it. Bit annoying. At the same time, don't want to clean it with Autosol if it'll make it worse.
Used an alloy cleaner on it before and it started going a weird orangey colour. Took a lot of elbow grease to get that off!
Some exhausts are just plain steel with no shiny coatings. These will never gleam no matter how hard you try.0 -
No need for any more rinses after polishing. The car should be dried before polishing and the polish should be removed with a mf towel not an applicator. Personally I do the wheels before washing the car (after snow foam) I wouldn't do it after waxing etc as the car will get wet again and the wheel cleaner could strip the wax off. I haven't used wheel cleanse but any wheel cleaner that I have used needs to be agitated with a brush on the wheel to get it clean. Don't forget to Iron cleanse your wheels too once you've washed them.
Very helpful, thank you!
Yeah, doing the wheels early on might make more sense, alright. Iron cleanse on the wheels, too. Check. Iron cleanse is meant for the car itself, though, too, right!? (ie; it's not a wheels-only product)?Some exhausts are just plain steel with no shiny coatings. These will never gleam no matter how hard you try.
I'd assume the Rav4 would fall into the category of non-shiny (as it's not exactly a sports car, so I doubt they went to the bother or effort with it). This is the only photo i really have of it, presumably it still should be a lot cleaner?
Do you (or indeed anyone) know if the Tar cleanse will by any chance work on my Rav's sidebars? (which are heavily soiled in little black dots). Would love to get them looking shiny and clean again (if they ever wear in the first place).0 -
Just a few slight adjustments to be made, to an otherwise fairly spot on routine!Deleted User wrote: »1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher) Would only do the wheels and arches
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off) May need agitation - good idea to clean the tyres now too
4. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
5. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
6. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
7. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
8. Quick rinse (power washer)
9. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary) Make sure to use lube, a wee drop of the shampoo and water mixture will be fine, in a spray bottle
10. Quick rinse (power washer) You may need to wash the car, as the water will have dried out where you started and dirt will need to be washed off
11. Dry the car
12. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a Microfiber cloth to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
13. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery) The Glitz can be applied with an old applicator or microfiber, or a brush if you pour a small bit into a container that you can get a brush at, but that usually wastes lots of product
15. Clean the glass
16. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.Deleted User wrote: »Yeah, doing the wheels early on might make more sense, alright. Iron cleanse on the wheels, too. Check. Iron cleanse is meant for the car itself, though, too, right!? (ie; it's not a wheels-only product)?
Yeah, Iron Cleanse can be used on the paintwork with out risk. It can be used on the wheels and would be more often as the iron deposits build up a lot quicker on the wheels. Iron Cleanse can go pretty much everywhere, but no need to use on glass as there's no advantage.Deleted User wrote: »I'd assume the Rav4 would fall into the category of non-shiny (as it's not exactly a sports car, so I doubt they went to the bother or effort with it). This is the only photo i really have of it, presumably it still should be a lot cleaner?
Thats definitely no supposed to be a shiney chrome effect finish. A bit of metal polish and wire wool will bring it back to a decent finish....almost like a brushed metal finish
Yeah, will be fine. When doing the paint work, dont be afraid to use it and Iron Cleanse on any of the finishes. All helps with the decontamination of the surfaces. You could even clay them if you wanted. Then to get the chrome bits nice and shiney you could used the Pro Polish 3n and a microfiber to bring them up a bit....do not use the wire wool on those finishes. No harm to stick a bit of wax on them then to help keep them protected and less likely / easier to clean off the water spots!Deleted User wrote: »Do you (or indeed anyone) know if the Tar cleanse will by any chance work on my Rav's sidebars? (which are heavily soiled in little black dots). Would love to get them looking shiny and clean again (if they ever wear in the first place).0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »Kerbing
Been there since before I owned it and it annoys me but I can't afford to get them refurbed yet nor do I have another set to put on while they're being done but it's on the list.
I could argue that you have been curbing your arges to sort them.
Dyselxia for ya.
Would you consider giving them a go yourself? I guess it's a bit different that working on Japscrap.
Decent finish here.
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I could argue that you have been curbing your arges to sort them.
Dyselxia for ya.
Would you consider giving them a go yourself? I guess it's a bit different that working on Japscrap.
I wouldn't call it dyslexia, it's often referred to as curbing but it's wrong.
I've refurbed alloys enough times to know that it's an absolute and utter pain in the h0le. Also, it's very hard to get a good, smooth OE finish on them and I just couldn't be arsed. If I'm going to do them at all, it'll be whole hog.0 -
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There is palace in Tallaght that does them for €80 a wheel (or at least they did about 2 years ago) I've seen 3 sets of wheels done by them and they were all flawless. I think they're called Tallaght powder coating...
I may hit them up, my wheels are a state along with half the car :pac: 0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »The main factors for me in getting the wheels done are: 1) money, 2) a replacement set as I need my car every day and 3) location. WheelDoctor is in Tipperary Town which is about half an hour from me so I'll be bringing them there. Not a ope I'd go all the way to Dublin with them as it's just extra expense.
Sweet post number you have there! :cool:
Do have a friend that could lend you a car when it's been done?:P
Just letting you know of a place that I have experience of being good 0 -
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![[Deleted User]](/applications/dashboard/design/images/defaulticon.png)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDfnui1M4OE
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